3greytjoys
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Posts posted by 3greytjoys
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Thank you greysmom, tbhounds, and krissn333 for your responses. Every response is helpful. I will PM greytdecals too.
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Has anyone's hound had a front outside toe/digit amputated for a limited pathologic fracture? If so, did it eliminate all limping and osteo pain?
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Fabulous news!!
Thank you for this excellent update. That is a pretty good size surgical wound, so I'm not surprised she's not ready to run after only 2 weeks. She's a smart girl. Positive thoughts for Sophie's continued successful healing.
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Pam's suggestion is what I was thinking for your future trips too. Many dogs are sensitive and don't fare too well in kennels or daycare. Could you contact the closest Greyhound adoption group/s to ask for suggestions of other "Greyhound experienced" adopters to contact for shared petsitting? It would be helpful to develop a Greyhound savvy contact now, before your next trip.
If that adoption group has a local Greyhound member forum, they might allow newer area residents to join their forum. This could be an excellent local resource for you.
Another idea: You might consider reposting to Greytalk in "Everything else Greyhound" asking for Greyhound sitting exchange in your region.
Good luck.
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How far back on her tongue are you putting the pill? You can literally put it as far down her throat as you can reach. It also helps to have a syringe of water ready. After you get the pill into her mouth, hold her mouth closed, tip her nose up a little, and immediately dribble some of the water into the front of her mouth to encourage her to swallow. Let go of her mouth after you give her the water, and she will probably swallow.
I also like the idea of coating the pill with something something slippery before pilling. You can also make a little 'meatball' with just enough canned food or cheese to cover the tablet, and pill her with that. She might be less likely to spit it out if it tastes good.
Excellent tips!
Future idea (also mentioned by Remolacha): I've used these pill guns for decades and love them for dogs and cats. (I'm currently giving 12 pills/capsules to different dogs each day, including dog yucky tasting Tramadol tablets. The pill gun works like a charm.)
http://www.entirelypets.com/pillgun.html
Combining the pill gun with jjng's excellent suggestion of adding a little water to the front of the mouth should make it even easier.
Following up with a yummy treat often helps, along with a happy "good dog" voice so dog associates it with a happy event.
The other device I use a lot for our animals is a pill cutter (available at most drug stores for a few dollars) .
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Just checking on Sophie... I hope she's eating, and her excessive brusing is beginning to clear up well(?).
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Can anyone verify what specific make and model of container will hold an actual 40LB bag of the Kirkland dog food in its bag. The bag seems to measure about 25" high but most of the food containers people mentioned on here are 23" high or less. Can't see how the Kirkland bags would fit.
Just a thought: The containers might be manufactured shorter for humans with different arm lengths to access the bottom of the containers. Also, the manufacturers likely expect people to pour kibble out of the 40# bag to fill every crevice.
The 55 QT. size (Almond) may work well after the kibble bag's top is cut open allowing excess air to be released. If you have space, the 69 QT. should be plenty large. If you care about food grade plastic, look for that notation, or BPA Free in the description.
Here is the manufacturer's link for Iris:
http://www.irisusashop.com/Index.asp?KB=KAISO&CID=115&L=0&page=2
(BTW, I can gently place tall 40# bags in the 47 QT. size, but the top of new bags of food sticks out above the container. I don't recommend that for others who want to keep kibble in it's own bag since the lid can't be closed immediately. Our kibble level drops so fast that we don't expect to lock the lid for the first couple of meals. Our hounds are not left alone with the containers so it's not a problem here. If we were buying new containers, we'd get the next size up.)
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Below is the current recall list from Diamond:
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Glad you brought up this important topic.
We've had these containers for several years. Most importantly (for us) the plastic is FDA approved as safe "food grade" plastic. (Non-food grade plastics can transfer undesirable chemicals into the food, and be problematic for people or hounds with odor sensitivities.)
The 47 Qt. holds a 30# bag well, but anything larger needs the next container size up.
The "Top Paw" container (posted by Gryhndsr4us) looks good with nice size options, especially if it's FDA approved as a "food safe" grade plastic.
(When I was last researching food containers, I couldn't find well-sized FDA "food grade" plastics at pet stores. I hope that's changed by now.)
All pet kibble manufacturers with whom I've spoken about kibble storage recommend storing kibble in it's own bag. Reason: Kibble oils coat the inside of food containers. The leftover oils go rancid quickly, and can make pets ill.
(All the recall problems make this recommendation even more important.)
Otherwise, they recommend thoroughly washing the food container with soap and warm water, and DRY very, very thoroughly before pouring each new bag of food in container.
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Humm, assuming you've already examined his paws very carefully for a foreign object, you might look for any excessive licking of a paw or leg. I wonder if walking on wet concrete surfaces reduces the pad toughness over time. I would think the exaggerated limp is of more concern.
A few things come to mind: Many hounds are so stoic and they want to go with us so they try to keep up. Whenever our hounds are showing signs of any discomfort (i.e., slowing on walks), we pay close attention and turn around when they look ready. We don't push them. I figure they know how their bodies are feeling (or hurting) better than we do. We usually don't walk hounds who are limping (unless directed to by vet, which is rare).
When we get newly retired hounds in with soft pads from the tracks (who don't have a limp), we begin walking them for very short outings for weeks beginning with 5 minutes, then 10 minutes, building time increments slowly until their pads have a chance to toughen up. (Our own hounds are used to walking on sidewalks for years, but they still walk tenderly over rough pavement.)
If Hermes has had a limp since he retired, I'd be inclined to have an X-ray taken to see what is causing his limp. It may be fixable. On the other hand, some hounds may have had a previous injury that makes walking longer distances (or running) too painful and difficult.
We've had a hound that had miniscule pieces of gravel work deeply into a paw pad (happened in only one walk) even though we wiped off his pads and thought we got it off, pad grew over the embedded gravel. A simple surgery fixed up that hound well. We happen to have a hound with a tiny bone fracture now. In her isolated case, no walks for 8-12 weeks.
Good luck, and let us know if you can find the reason for this newer discomfort. Could be just about anything.
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I agree that Biotene antiseptic gel can work well for gum infections (covers antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral). Directions state to use it twice daily for 5-7 days. (Not for on-going long term use.)
I also thought about PetzLife, but didn't recommend it because I was surprised to learn many veterinarians do not recommend it due to questionable safety of ingredients for dogs (i.e., grain alcohol, grape seed extract, etc.). Just something to consider, particularly if using long-term. (My thought was it has to be a VERY strong product if it does what it claims.)
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Humm, you can probably zoom into the original photo better on your computer, but I think I *might* be seeing 1 or 2 teeny tiny discolorations (foreign objects or holes?) in the middle of the open wound. (I assume no chance part of a foxtail could have dug it's way inside the paw either?) Maybe you can see a side view of that side of the toe.
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Happy 6th birthday, Sophie!!!
Great news that she's improving today!!!
I'm glad you consulted OSU about her extreme excessive bleeding, particularly coupled with her seizures. Will be interesting to learn if they are satisfied with 5 days of Amicar, or if they recommend any treatment beyond that.
Please give Sophie extra birthday kisses on her "kissy spot" on her head.
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(Glad someone suggested you stop using Hydrogen Peroxide.)
How often do you suggest a pro dental cleaning?
My only worry about a cleaning is my girl had a pro dental 2 days before we brought her home and I began brushing within the first week yet the bloody gums were present even then. Also I'm not thrilled with our current vet and would not feel comfortable entrusting Gracie to their care for a procedure involving anesthesia. I've asked my adoption group to recommend a Grey savvy vet in my area and I'm still waiting for a response.
Just out of curiosity, why is Hydrogen Peroxide a bad choice? I haven't used it in a long time. Just wondering.
Thanks again!
I understand your concern re: finding a top notch Greyhound savvy veterinarian. If your hound was fortunate enough to have had a thorough dental recently, it is possible keep tartar "under control" with home attention starting today. (Just don't expect the exisiting tartar to magically disappear.) You may not "see" the usefulness of your effort, but you CAN help prevent more soft plaque from forming deeper layers of hardened tartar.
Even after a professional dental cleaning, if soft (easily removable) daily plaque is ignored, hardened tartar accumulates to surprisingly measurable amounts within 6 weeks. Daily soft plaque begins to harden into tartar within 36 hours. That's why a quick, gentle daily brushing is best. I was taught (by a veterinary dental specialist) to brush each section 10-12 times. I wholeheartedly agree that seconds of daily home dental care is worth it's weight in gold vs. requiring excessive veterinary dental care.
Important to remember: The more severe the tartar build-up, the LONGER the hound has to be under anesthesia for cleaning (and/or extractions). Longer anesthesia means greater risk to hound.
Our hounds vary re: professional dental needs. One senior has needed a pro dental every 1 to 1.5 years. (He retired later in mid-life, dental health was left unaddressed for years.) Our hound with best dental health can easily last 3+ years between professional dentals. Along with regular gentle tooth brushing, and periodic oral rinse, she is our top Durachew chewer. (She has high anxiety, so chewing Durachews also act as a stress reliever for her.) Our other hounds' dental needs fall between the best and worst case hounds.
You could try C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Rinse while your hounds gums are healing from bleeding. Then, a finger brush (with tiny soft rubber bristles) with pet toothpaste (or gauze wrapped around your finger) until the gums are ready for a regular dog toothbrush (with softened bristles under hot water).
To answer your good question re: Hydrogen Peroxide:
My understanding is Hydrogen Peroxide destroys healthy cells. This is one reason it is not recommended (by many in the medical profession) for use on cuts/wounds. It impedes healing, and creates capillary embolism. Hydrogen Peroxide is too harsh on dog's mucous membranes and should not be swallowed. (Exception is a rare veterinary emergency, if vet directed to induce vomiting for something more toxic and harmful to dog that is "soft" enough to not do esophageal damage if soft item is vomited back up.) Even under emergency veterinary care, Hydrogen Peroxide can flow into lungs and cause aspirate problems, other serious medical problems; internal stomach ulcers, etc. HP is an oxidizing agent (and acid). Hydrogen Peroxide (obviously in varying strengths) is used as an industrial chemical in municipal sewer systems, even in nuclear reactors to eliminate corrosive products.
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Her pad hardening might be a deep rooted corn that hasn't fully surfaced yet, but could also be something more simple like infection or mineralization.
This link shows the inside of corns: http://www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/corns.htm
(One of our hounds has had a hardened pad for years, but it didn't cause her a painful limp.)
Congratulations on your good dental efforts.
Re: gingivitis. I'm guessing if she's not interested in chewing real bones for very long that her gums may be painful.
If bleeding gums are a problem, you can try holding toothbrush bristles under hot water before brushing. That softens the bristles, so if you're brushing with a very gentle touch, it's not as hard on the gums. (Glad someone suggested you stop using Hydrogen Peroxide.)
The only thing I know of that safely removes tartar/calculus (besides safe bones) is a professional cleaning. As we know, once tartar begins building up, bacteria begins adhering to the tartar on the teeth and creeps deeply underneath the gum into the root area, and moving into the blood stream to organs.
Helps to feed kibble (wet down with water immediately before serving is good to prevent choking). In contrast, feeding soft canned food is terrible on teeth. Canned food coats teeth and stays on teeth creating problems. Any canned food should be brushed off teeth soon after meals.
The best way to keep ahead of tartar build-up is a professional veterinary cleaning, then gentle daily brushing.
IMO, the best pet toothpaste is C.E.T. (Poultry is our hounds favorite, but beef is "tartar control" so we alternate with that one too.) Available at low prices: www.entirelypets.com
We use C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Rinse directly on the teeth of a senior who can't tolerate brushing on one side right now. (We use same C.E.T. rinse during the week after pro dentals, until we can resume brushing.)
C.E.T. chews are good for helping reduce plaque, but again, they don't break off already formed cement-like tartar formations. (Should be supervised and taken away when chews get too soft and too small. Use a "trade up" treat method, if needed to take back a chew.)
Finally, if your Nylabone is a true "flavor" (chicken, bacon, or liver) don't give up on it forever. She may develop an interest in months/years to come. Try frequently smearing peanut butter on the Nylabone to entice interest. (Our hounds like flatter shapes more than giant round shapes. Flatter is easier to hold and chew). Hard Durachews for dogs over 50 pounds are safest for Greyhounds and are GREAT for keeping dentals to a minimum. That said, some dogs are simply not big chewers.
Bully sticks can be dangerous causing intestinal damage/blockage problems. Like with any "edible" chew, constant supervision is very important.
Good luck...
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How is Hermes walking inside the house?
Is he avoiding hard floors, trying to stay on carpet?
What time of day is he walking outside?
Is it in sun, or shade?
I didn't recall that Hermes usually has a limp. Can you elaborate a little more about his limp?
Can you take photos of his paw pads?
(Ideal is taking photos of dry pads first, then taking photos of wet pads.
Then it works well to "zoom in" on a computer to examine pads much more closely than viewing pads with the naked eye.)
You might try a test of leaving Nash at home while taking only Hermes on a walk. (Although, I'm guessing he's more likely feeling some physical discomfort rather than a behavioral issue.)
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Lindsay, I sent you an email. If you haven't seen it yet, please check your email account/s.
I hope Sophie is improving today...
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Wow, Lindsay! I'm relieved you started treating Sophie with Amicar (Aminocaproic Acid). Sophie's bleeding is quite severe. Could any of her other medications be complicating her excessive bleeding issues? I would try to send these pics to OSU for their input. Normally, I wouldn't recommend that, but I do in her case.
Please see following treatment section (blue text) for Aminocaproic Acid dose range: https://greyhound.os...ancer/index.cfm
Viewer caution: Photos of excessive bleeding cases post op.
https://greyhound.os...eders/index.cfm
We have 3 excessive bleeder hounds. They can begin excessive bleeding on the operating table (and/or within 3-4+ days post op.). One of our hounds began spontaneous bleeding a couple of weeks ago (not even a post op.). That hound was nearly clear of excessive subcutaneous blood within 5 days of Aminocaproic Acid treatment. None of our own hounds have been as severe as Sophie's "post op." while at home. One hound bled very badly during a surgery (before we started using Aminocaproic Acid) but vet was finally able to stop her surgical bleeding. Now, all our hounds (excessive bleeders or not) get liquid form A.A. for every surgery. (There are a few hounds who shouldn't get A.A. but a vet can read drug cautions.)
As Robin mentioned, I agree about watching Sophie like a hawk and getting her back to vet if she worsens or doesn't improve soon. (We saw a bad situation after a full amputation of a hound's leg, but that was withOUT any Aminocaproic Acid.)
Please remember to ask your vet if any of Sophie's medication mixes could be compounding her problem by causing additional internal bleeding.
Prayers for Sophie's rapid recovery.
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Thanks for posting this! Diamond Naturals Lamb and Rice seems to be the only thing that doesn't shred Luna's stomach, so I quickly ran to check her current bag.
If anyone missed the second part of the FDA notice, it includes a second food product recall for Diamond Naturals Lamb and Rice. http://www.fda.gov/S...s/ucm299606.htm
(Thanks to others who posted about "Diamond Naturals" food recall last week.)
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We have a couple of extremely paw/nail sensitive hounds. Our most difficult hound to nail trim requires two humans. We go into a carpeted transition room (away from dog's "safe zone" dog beds). We basket muzzle him first. While dog is standing, one person keeps hounds attention by non-stop hand feeding of small cubed HIGH value treats that hound never gets any other time. He also holds hound's collar. Second person wears small head/hat light, and clips nails. (We don't let dog see/notice the head light.) We keep a blood clotting product with paper towels within arms reach, just in case. All of our hounds allow dremeling which is ideal, except this boy. He still freaks if he hears the dremel, even from afar.
I understand the previous poster was in a unique situation, but for others (especially a new Greyhound owner) I respectfully disagree with a scruff shake, especially for Greyhounds. They are a sensitive breed with thin skin and very sensitive necks. The OP already has a highly touchy/paw sensitive animal. We have no idea if that dog was mistreated in the past, or what painful events caused the hound's paw sensitivity. That method could be asking for more trouble. It often BACKFIRES by teaching certain dogs to become reactive aggressive towards humans, not to mention medical problems. It could seriously risk damaging any TRUST the hound has built up for the new owner, and could be asking for their hound to attack them. In my opinion, humans gaining and keeping their dog's trust is the most important thing for any owner.
A veterinarian should be able to clip the hound's nails, if nothing else works at home. (I think our vet charges about $15. but they've only done our hounds when they happen to be in surgery for a dental, etc.)
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Here is the FDA's recall - firm press release (updated today):
http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm299606.htm?source=govdelivery
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Willie is in our continued thoughts and prayers. Wishing you much strength during this challenging time. Hugs to you both.
Thank you for this excellent update. That is a pretty good size surgical wound, so I'm not surprised she's not ready to run after only 2 weeks. She's a smart girl. 
Compounded Prescription Recall - Veterinary And Human Meds.
in Health and Medical discussion
Posted
http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm305509.htm?source=govdelivery
Franck's appears to be based in Ocala, Florida: http://www.francks.com/