3greytjoys
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If your dog is really unhappy, the time to decide to part with the cat is now.
Agree.
Kittens become more and more active as they grow, meaning they often become crazed... running around climbing up window coverings, jumping (flying) on/off high furniture, refrigerator, shelves, and often knocking even heavy items off shelves and tables, even if a Greyhound is resting below(!). This immature feline behavior often lasts for years. Our last kitten took about 5 years to begin to mature into a normal, well-behaved family member. Cats won't hesitate to do naughty things to demand attention, including threats to a dog since cats quickly learn what gets the greatest rise from their humans.
It's a double whammy for Greyhounds having been bred to sight/chase/hunt small things that move. Active kittens taunt dogs by running, jumping on dogs, pushing things over on dogs, etc. which greatly increases dogs' stress (unable to rest peacefully). Animals' stress can build and affect their relationship, health, etc.
If your Greyhound is already stressed living with an 8 week old kitten, re-homing the kitten is the most kind and responsible thing to do for all involved. Your early foster care is admirable, and was most important to improve kitty's health. Now, she's at a better age for adoption. (A friend fosters litters of kittens for shelters until they're old enough for adoption.) Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Thank you for sharing this beautiful memorial montage of your beloved Brooke. She was clearly loved and adored.
So many touching photos, one (of many) favorites was of Brook taking a dip while her dad sitting at water's edge holding her leash.
She is missed by her GT friends.
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Thank you for this wonderful update, and for all the effort you and your wife have provided for Verdasco's long-term care!
This world needs more caring people like you. Assuming his potential adoption works out, I hope you'll get to see him on occasion.
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Oh how crushing! I'm so deeply sorry about your sudden and terribly untimely loss of Maverick.
Eventually, may happier memories of your beloved boys help fill the huge void left in your heart.
Our supportive thoughts are with you and Miss Fancypants as you find new, special ways to deepen your relationship together.
Godspeed Maverick, now forever bonded with brother Goose... until you all meet again.
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In addition to others' suggestions, covering Duke's paws with thick baggies just before potty outings would help. Perhaps a vet clinic could give you empty plastic IV bags laced with a gauze tie at the top to secure around Duke's paws before potty outings. Agree with rest, and periodic soakings since deeply embedded debris or tiny road rocks could eventually cause him pain and require surgery after wounds are healed.
You didn't mention how long Duke was loose or the weather/temperature that day, but we (search/rescuers) watch for signs of rhabdomyolysis in Greyhounds who escape or overexert during warm months, especially when frightening fireworks skyrocket their stress level. If you're not aware of rhabdomyolysis, please see link below and keep an eye open for symptoms. Possible symptoms include muscle pain and swelling that becomes noticeable within 72 hours after excessive exercise/running (especially during warm/hot weather), possible red tint to urine, etc. If severe, stiffness, deep or fast breathing, collapse, and kidney failure could occur. http://pets.thenest.com/rhabdomyolysis-greyhounds-6571.html
Great relief that you were able to find and catch Duke. Extra TLC for your boy during his recovery.
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Oh, I'm so very saddened to read that Brooke has passed.
You're in our caring thoughts as you process this heartbreaking, unexpected early loss.
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That is very scary. Positive thoughts for Star's full recovery without another incident.
Thank you for this important reminder!
Reminds me of one of our Greyhounds who was panting differently (from two other hounds in the car) after a cool, early morning muzzled Greyhounds only play date. Our then recently adopted 6 y.o. was panting much more heavily, more labored, more raspy, and for a much longer time than other hounds in the cold, air-conditioned car. Vet's dx was inconclusive. The following year a vet diagnosed her with laryngeal paralysis during a hot summer vet visit. We were very fortunate that we listened to our gut feelings and limited her running exercise during that first year before her official LP diagnosis. She could have collapsed from lack of oxygen, and/or hyperthermia while struggling to breathe.
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I'm so sorry that your sweet Benny has passed. Your family provided a much needed loving home for him to enjoy his well-deserved latest years.
Thank you again for quickly pulling Benny when he was in desperate need a couple of years ago. So glad he was welcomed into your Greyhound family. You and your family are in our sincere thoughts during this difficult time. Hope your trio adjusts in time. Understanding and heartfelt hugs to you all. Benny will be remembered fondly.
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We briefly crossed a gravel area during a dirt path hike. Hounds showed no signs of discomfort during hike. After returning to a hard surface parking lot, we realized gravel debris had embedded into one hound's paw pad. Surgery #1 cleaned out most gravel debris. Weeks to months later, second surgery was required to remove last tiny pieces missed during first surgery. We didn't have any luck with repeated paw soaks. Post bed rest recovery, a Therapaw boot was worn during walks to prevent additional debris collections until paw pad grew back completely. Therapaws fit our uniquely shaped Greyhounds' paws really well (unless large bandages are included): http://www.therapaw.com/thera-pawboots.aspx
Thereafter, all hounds paws are checked/wiped off immediately after walking on gravel surfaces. No further incidents.
Taking photos of paw wound (both dry pad and wet pad photos) then zooming in on computer may help visually, and could be shared with your vet.
Good luck with your girl. Please let us know how it goes.
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We have the Walkabout Back End Harness, a soft neoprene medical assistance harness. (Bought primarily for staircase assistance.) Custom ordered size to fit our eldest female Greyhound. (Airlift One Back End Harness provides extra space for males, different material.)
http://www.walkaboutharnesses.com/collections/walkabout-harnesses
Separately, we've used the Walkabelly assistance sling for balanced standing, walking, and a few limited steps.
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Welcome to GreyTalk!
Congratulations on your handsome new boy, Phil!Please ask your adoption group to arrange a stair training session (or 2) with a stair experienced Greyhound + experienced humans, so Phil can watch the Greyhound climbing/descending stairs first. If available, carpeted steps may help initially. One person can lift his legs one at a time while the other supports his body. If that can't be arranged soon enough, you might try practicing alone with him on fewer and deeper stairs elsewhere, but if he's feeling stress overload, he may shut down to learning that day.
If not already doing so, please place rubber-backed bath mats, or cheap runner rugs with rubber rug gripper mats underneath on your hardwood floors wherever Phil is expected to walk and eat meals. Many Greyhounds have had scary and dangerous falls on hard surface floors. It can take them a long time to recover emotionally and physically.
Good luck. Please let us know how it goes.
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If known via camera, it would help to know approximate times she typically eliminates after your departures(?).
The diarrhea never happens at any other times? If she's had any other loose stools and hasn't had a recent fecal test, it could be helpful. If she's struggling with parasites/worms in different growth stages (diarrhea may be worse at times), vet medication could eliminate that problem. (Parasites/worms are very common among racing kennels/farms/parks. Even if treated upon adoption, it may take more than one treatment series to fully eliminate them in different growth stages.)
Otherwise, like people, it's not uncommon for dogs who are feeling anxious to need to eliminate more frequently. Sometimes their body isn't physically able to hold urine/bowel as long as they can while humans are home and dogs are feeling fully secure/relaxed. The more elimination opportunities, usually the better.
E.g.: Our severely anxious hound needs to eliminate upon awakening, soon after breakfast, after humans' shower (she's watching departure cues and becoming more anxious/excited not knowing yet if she'll get to go with human/s), and one more calm outing (not stressed/hurried) within 5-10 minutes of humans' departure.
Most Greyhounds also prefer to eliminate after awakening from a nap, after play, before meals and bedtime.
I assume her eliminations are not related to medications or food transitions. BTW, please be careful to not reprimand her for these indoor eliminations. Greyhounds are highly sensitive and if they even feel their owner is upset, it increases their long lasting stress hormones which compound and increase anxiety related behaviors.
If you live in a house with a very secure 6'+ tall fenced yard, a doggie door might be an option. (Only if you're sure there are no potential launching platforms like garbage cans, wood piles, furniture, etc. near the fence providing a potential escape route. Ensure she's safely locked inside the house during fireworks, thunderstorms, etc,)
Agree that Greyhounds are highly accustomed to routine. Feisty49's suggestion is excellent re: arranging a similar 7-day per week potty schedule for your girl. Perhaps someone could stop by to provide a potty break if you have a special engagement to attend on weekends.
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Here's a working link to list of Calming signals - The Art of Survival by Turid Rugaas: http://en.turid-rugaas.no/calming-signals---the-art-of-survival.html
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Welcome to GreyTalk. I agree with many others.
Try to set Warbie's environment up for his success.
Very important to learn to read canines' body language and calming signals. See signals listed here by Turid Rugaas: http://en.turid-rugaas.no/calming-signals---the-art-of-survival.html
IMO, eliminate bones; no human furniture; provide nice thick dog beds on floor. Let resting dogs lie undisturbed.
Wait for dog stand and approach human before offering attention.
Remember to reward Warbie's good/desired behaviors. (Catch/reward him doing good things naturally.)
Teach "drop it" and "leave it" (with low value items), "off", "heel" and "watch me" cues; reward with treats.
(Later, "watch me" cue works to keep his attention during walks while passing other dogs.)
Remember that leash reactivity/aggression can be rooted from fear, stress, etc.
Leash reactive dogs blog post by Dr. Sophia Yin: https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/reactive-dog-foundation-exercises-for-your-leash-reactive-dog/
(Dr. Yin's all breed post mentions dogs sitting which is often uncomfortable for Greyhounds, so standing is a good option for Greys.)
Important to respect dogs' growl. Please do not reprimand for a growl. Growls are a dogs way of communicating his/her displeasure/discomfort in a situation, even pain. If growls are punished, dogs are more likely to feel forced into escalating their communication level to a bite -- just to get their point across.
Respect begets respect.
Dog parks can be especially dangerous for retired racing Greyhounds. Sighthounds are trained to chase smaller furry animals that move, especially outside (thousands of years of ingrained hunting instincts). Racers are naturally highly competitive, often nipping while running with other dogs. Greyhounds often have very different manners, and play styles than other pet dogs. Greyhounds' thin skin tears more easily than other dogs. Liability for other dog park participants is a concern.
In lieu of public dog parks, many Greyhound adoption groups encourage adopters to gather for "Greyhounds only play dates" where all dogs are safely muzzled in a fenced enclosure. Otherwise, some Greyhound owners visit dog parks only when they are empty of other dogs. If another dog shows up, the hound owner leaves.
Do not muzzle a single dog in a multi-dog setting like a dog park. The muzzled dog can't defend him/herself if attacked by others.
A muzzled dog is often targeted as the weakest underdog, and is subject to be attacked by the non-muzzled dog pack. General rule: If one dogs is muzzled, ALL dogs are muzzled.
Ditto, and ditto.
Cesar Milan has no idea what he's talking about.
He has no real education in dog training or behavior, doesn't demonstrate an understanding of basic learning principles, and uses techniques that are likely to lead to increased aggression over time (which of course they're not going to show you on TV). The whole alpha/dominance theory in dogs has been debunked - see the links I posted above to start. Please reconsider reading his books or watching his shows unless it's to learn what not to do.Agree. C. Millan's long outdated (3+ decades old) dangerous techniques can be disastrously damaging for the sensitive Greyhound breed, their human families, and other dogs. The U.S. Humane Society; veterinary medicine organizations; veterinary animal behavior organizations; professional animal training organizations, etc. are against using those archaic methods. (I saw those unfortunate training results of increased aggression in animals in the 60's-80's.)
Vet medicine snippet quote:
"American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior issued a position statement about the use of punishment for behavior modification in animals, detailing 9 possible adverse effects of using punishment when training dogs. While not naming any trainers by name, the statement was written to counter Millan's techniques...
According to an article by Timothy Kirn for VIN News
"The AVSAB recommends that veterinarians not refer clients to trainers or behavior consultants who coach and advocate dominance hierarchy theory and the subsequent confrontational training that follows from it," the position statement says.
That statement was initiated with Millan in mind, says Dr. Laurie Bergman, of Norristown, Pa., a member of AVSAB's executive board.
"We had been moving away from dominance theory and punitive training techniques for a while, but, unfortunately, Cesar Millan has brought it back," she says."
End quote.
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Until you're able to post some answers to my questions above, I'll provide one exercise to practice (if you're not already doing so).
She's likely watching your work day departure cues and beginning to associate her crate with being left alone. Helps to practice with her entering the crate and resting with crate door open, and later door closed for brief periods (e.g., 5 minutes after eating). After her potty break -- gradually increase crate closed door periods (up to an hour or so) while humans are home and nearby watching TV, reading/computer, later puttering around the house, etc. This helps her view her crate as her comfortable, safe and happy place while she's feeling relaxed and humans aren't leaving without her. After that's going well, begin desensitizing her to your work departure cues by picking up/putting down keys, putting shoes on etc, without leaving the house.
Although entering the crate freely is ideal, a temporary learning curve is common i.e., it's understandable if she needs extra guidance until she learns the routine. You're already doing great with the crate time only Kong treat. Plain meat baby food (no toxic onion/garlic etc. spices) is an ultimate treat! Smearing natural plain peanut butter inside the Kong is another favorite that takes a little longer to finish. Some people freeze Kongs to help them last longer but some dogs find it less appealing (lacks some of the food's scent).
Congratulations on your happy foster failure!
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Many Greyhounds vomit bile if they go too long between meals. Assuming you're already feeding breakfast and dinner meals, try offering about 1/3 or 1/2 cup of his dinner kibble at bedtime to help his tummy last through the night until breakfast. If their tummy is too upset with bile, they often refuse to eat dog food for up to a day or two. Prevention by managing meal/snack timing is very helpful if there isn't another underlying medical cause.
I'd escort him outside for potty breaks and prevent him from eating grass, or any other plant material. Eating grass is not healthy. Sharp grass blades can cause internal cuts (like a paper cut), and grass is often treated with chemical fertilizers, weed-killers, insecticides, etc. that are toxic and can eventually cause or contribute to cancer in pets. Those chemicals can stay in the ground for a long time. Also, a surprisingly large number of plants are toxic to pets, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, etc. One example: Generally, vets have taught me to "consider" all mushrooms as poisonous to pets (even though some are not toxic); they're difficult to I.D. and not worth the risk.
Even though a muzzle with stool cup can help prevent hounds from eating plants. A muzzle with stool cup is not recommended for hounds who are at risk of vomiting because vomit can get trapped inside the cup and choke the hound who is trying to expel fluid and breathe. Dogs hang their heads down while vomiting, so the vomit can't drain out of the solid cup fast enough.
Hope this helps.
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I'm wondering about her morning schedule?
How long is she in the crate during the day?
Is the crate placed where it's always in the shade in your home (out of any direct or reflected sun throughout the day)?
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Oh, I'm so very sad to see that your handsome, "good and noble" Desi boy has passed.
You were so good to him, and he was fortunate to have been so deeply loved by his devoted mom.
Desi will be greatly missed by many. Hugs to you during this difficult time.
Godspeed sweet Desi.
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In my experiences, aside from bloat possibilities, I still would not feed dry kibble. We've had scary emergency hospital visits for hounds choking on kibble.
The most horrific experience was a dog whose body became paralyzed while choking on kibble, which eventually lead to death by euthanasia.
Seems a lot of dogs don't care for "add-in" foods to their kibble meals; simply moistening plain kibble with a little water can help them eat more safely.
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The mid-back dip/dent is normal in Greyhounds' anatomy. Greyhounds' spines are more flexible (like a cheetah) allowing them to run with a double suspension gait.
Works well for our hounds to take walks together first, then stop at the house to drop off tiring elders. (Tired hounds are usually happy to be back home while others finish walking.) Otherwise, we juggle different walks: elder hounds walk separately from younger hounds.
All our hounds struggle if walking in heat. We're careful to walk in shady areas, usually early morning or late evening. Our hounds' most comfortable walking temperature is up to about 70 degrees F. (21 C?) Direct sun is hard on the temperature sensitive Greyhound breed (thin fur, no fur undercoat, thin skin, lack of fat layer, etc.), plus pavement often gets too hot for their paw pads.
I haven't seen any new reports of cooling coats proven to be effective(?); some previous tests resulted in cooling coats that trapped and increased dogs' body heat.
Perhaps the neck coolers might be more effective(?).
Slowly rinsing dogs legs, underside, and neck with cool water can help. We carry water bottles on hikes, and during Greyhound events, etc.
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Ugh, I'm so very sorry Zuri's initial results are not what we hoped. Meanwhile, keeping positive thoughts for you and your good boy...
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Excellent question. I agree, unfortunately, that there aren't any truly safe bones. Bones can get stuck in roof of dog's mouth, lower jaw or throat; cause internal blockage; fractured teeth; splintering bones cause internal punctures; marrow often causes diarrhea/tummy problems. Rawhide, pigs ears, etc. can cause choking and internal blockages also. Rawhide is indigestible, and rawhide's source safety can be questionable. If large rawhide bones are given, they should be taken away from dog before chews get too small. Discard in a secure garbage can outside. Dogs should always be supervised if given any bones mentioned above.
If needed, safest method to take back a dog's highly valued resource/bone is to "trade up" by offering dog a safer high value meat treat (tripe, cheese, etc.) that can be safely ingested.
Also, teaching "drop it" with less valued objects or toys before needing it in an emergency.
Hard Nylabones are an option, but even they can fracture teeth of very strong chewers. (I'm not a fan of soft Nylabones due to material pieces being chewed off and ingested.)
Stuffed Kongs are one of the safest options to keep dogs busy; however, if needed for alone training, Kongs are often reserved as extra special "alone training" activity treats.
Daily gentle tooth brushing with a pet toothbrush, and pet safe toothpaste is ideal for dogs, especially Greyhounds. (Poultry flavor is most dogs' favorite toothpaste.) Gentle brushing only takes a minute, and very effectively prevents soft plaque from hardening to tartar.
Many Greyhounds enjoy playing with toys. Our hounds favorite, and longest lasting toys are Tuffie Toys: http://www.tuffietoys.com/ultimate-ring
"Ultimate series" (Toughness scale 9) works well here, and have lasted many years with our own hounds and fosters.
Congratulations on your new adoption!
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They are both handsome fur babies!
This morning we went on a sighthound walk. Was it such a good idea to throw him into the wolves so to speak?
We're going to try what you mentioned about feeding in the crate while we're around. Does it matter that his food is not elevated? Or should it be something along the lines of treats? He's pretty reluctant in general to follow treats into it.
Agree that the walk was probably fun for him to be around other sighthounds. As mentioned above, they love being around their own kind after spending early years on Greyhound farms and in racing kennels. Cyrus really seems like an instapet. (Racers straight off the track take extra adjustment time learning about pet life, homes, TVs, mirrors, etc.)
BTW, if his previous longer-term family named him Sammy, consider calling him "Sammy-Cyrus" for a week before dropping Sammy. It will help him feel less bewildered during his transition.
If you want him to begin trusting/bonding with you first (before starting meal feedings in crate), you can try quietly sitting on the floor holding his dog food cupped in your hands (or holding his dog bowl) low enough for him to eat comfortably from your hands during his first few meals. If you hand feed, look away from him (no direct eye contact) and do not pet him during those feedings so he can feel more secure while eating. Afterward, praise him with a goood boy.
If you have an empty house plant basket (or similar), a dog bowl can be dropped into the rim to gain several inches of height without taking up extra space in the crate during meal times. (Remove basket when dog is not eating and not supervised.)
He may be more reluctant to follow treats into the crate if he's been locked inside previously for extended periods without enough potty outings. If he were ever placed in the crate for punishment, it will take more effort to counter-condition that type of negative association. If the crate happens to have two doors, leave both doors open during meals, and while tossing treats around the outside of the crate, then gradually toss treats inside the crate as a fun, happy "find it" game (without him feeling too nervous that he will be locked inside and left alone). The crate should have a thick, comfortable dog bed. Many Greyhounds are sensitive to hard surfaces (breed's lack of body fat).
Good luck.
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Mac didn't seem too stressed by the dog as later that evening he came down to the baby gate and started meowing and looking for cuddles. Cyrus lifted his head when he heard the meow but immediately went back to sleep. All hope is not lost??
Do you recommend allowing the cat to have free reign of the house when we take Cyrus out of the house? He's not one to stand in front of the door when we come in but he's usually in the living room waiting for us.
Great news about Mac resurfacing so soon. Given carefully supervised cat/dog management, I think both of your fur babies will be able to live together very well.
It's fine for Mac (cat) to have free reign of the house whenever Cyrus (hound) is away/outside with you; however, entrances/exits are very common times when accidents happen. It will help to keep a muzzle at the door to ensure Cyrus can be muzzled before entering since Mac's quiet presence or movement might surprise him. Also, keep Cyrus leashed while entering the house (which is important for Greyhounds anyway if coming back inside from an unfenced area).
FWIW I do not buy into dogs having a sense of entitlement if allowed on human furniture...that is a matter of human preference.
Just to clarify: My comment regarding waiting before (or if ever) allowing dogs up on human furniture is based on general canine positive training practices. Many adopters (any breed) suddenly realized their dogs had or developed resting space issues, resource guarding, sleep startle, etc. intensified by sharing humans' furniture. While not all dogs have space issues, being proactive becomes more important when small, fragile animals like cats (and/or children or adult visitors) are sharing humans' furniture. IME, it's beneficial for new dogs to be set-up for success in the early months vs. required retraining after an incident.
Separately, for dogs with separation anxiety, it's important to help them build self-confidence by the dog resting undisturbed on his/her own pet bed (vs. e.g., physically touching their owner for excessive time periods while sharing their humans' sofa or bed). Of course, it's human's choice; just wanted to provide some reasons behind the adage: "Let resting dogs lie undisturbed" (on their own pet beds).
OP: If needed to coax a dog off of furniture, helps to call the dog into another room for treats or fun activity, or toss treats on the floor within dog's sight to entice him off furniture freely. (Please do not lean over/grab/pull the dog's collar since that can be considered a threatening action in dog language.)
Often helps to feed meals (and treats) in the open door crate to help form positive, happy associations with the crate. Later, closing crate door only while dog is eating meals, eventually leaving crate door closed a few minutes after meal is finished - then taking him outside to potty. Thereafter, gradually leaving door closed a little longer while you are still in sight for brief blocks of time, etc...
Good luck, and have fun with Cyrus. We'd enjoy seeing pictures; he seems like a great dog!
He has no real education in dog training or behavior, doesn't demonstrate an understanding of basic learning principles, and uses techniques that are likely to lead to increased aggression over time (which of course they're not going to show you on TV). The whole alpha/dominance theory in dogs has been debunked - see the links I posted above to start. Please reconsider reading his books or watching his shows unless it's to learn what not to do.
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Delighted that Verdasco's adoption was approved!
Positive wishes as he begins this happy new chapter for his retirement years.
I hope he continues to improve physically too.