3greytjoys
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Congratulations, your young Poppy appears to be a wonderfully affectionate darling!
I'll offer a little more general canine food for thought as you determine whatever works well in your own situation.
You mentioned you are not working "at the moment". I often find it important to create some independent space for new hounds to encourage their independent confidence level. Meaning, if your hound is practically touching you 24/7 (sleeping on your bed + lying on your sofa) it could be setting her up for a bigger challenge when you eventually have to go back to work, or temporarily leave the house. (Your alone training is great.)
Although Poppy may be a perpetually accepting love bug, she hasn't been living in a family home long enough to feel her comfort level in different situations. It's often much harder to take away furniture privileges vs. waiting several months before inviting dogs up on human furniture. Retired racers are used to undisturbed resting space. That respectful, undisturbed space can be provided with dog beds in the home's most used family room + bedrooms, etc. (as you've provided).
Dogs resting on dog beds benefit dogs and their humans. It provides the dog his/her undisturbed safe space (especially while adjusting to all the workings in a new home); allows humans time to learn their dog's personality as it slowly unfolds; helps create a little healthy independent distance from their humans (e.g. humans sitting 10' away from dog's bed); helps dogs accept other human visitors (who might expect to sit on sofa
); helps when owners need to depart the house. Also helps dogs settle into their place within the family.BTW, helps a lot if all adults in the household participate in dog care and feeding.
If or when you decide to allow furniture privileges, I'd suggest teaching and frequently practicing the "off" cue. If any dog begins showing territorial behavior, do not try to physically move the dog. Instead, happily call the dog into another room for a very high value treat, or toss treats on the floor where the dog can see them and will willingly jump off the furniture.
Enjoy your wonderful new girl!
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If it helps clarify anything, below are some average sighthound size differences at maturity:
Greyhounds: 30" tall, 70 pounds.
Whippets: 20" tall, 30 pounds
Italian Greyhounds: 15" tall, 12 pounds (toy breed)
An Italian Greyhound puppy would be much smaller and more fragile looking than a standard Greyhound puppy of same age.
Since puppies grow faster than weeds, what are you ultimately looking for in your dog?
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Our Greyhounds' vet prefers to start our 70 pound (+/-) hounds on a lower dose of 100 mg., and observe their reactions.
If pain is not controlled with lower dose, with vet's approval, it can be increased by 100 mg.
Their high end dose of 300 mg. every 8 hours is only used for extremely serious disease pain.
Our eldest hounds have become more sensitive to medications as they've aged.
(Not sure if that's unique to our 13 and 14 year old hounds.)
Considering Wally's leg issues, it may help to be aware that ataxia is a side effect of gabapentin, and should be mentioned to your vet if noticed.
Link below provides overdose symptoms:
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I'm so very sorry to see this horrible diagnosis for Tilly.
Her symptoms mentioned in your previous posts were deeply concerning.
Sending strength and supportive thoughts as you rapidly process potential choices for Tilly.
Meanwhile, I hope her pain can be managed with generous doses of medication as effectively as possible. What a trooper your girl has been during the past month. Hugs.
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Vet visit cost varies by location. If you'd like to post your general region, we may be able to offer a better answer to your question (and it would help for when I reply to your food question).
Glad you're planning a veterinary visit. Skin lesions can stem from so many different causes, many of which require specific veterinary medication to fully eliminate them (i.e., anything from a fungal source like ringworm (which is not a worm), to parasitic mites, to allergies, to skin cancer, etc...).
ETA: I'd encourage you to print, complete, and take this (linked) form to your boy's veterinary visit. It's an excellent source to keep/repeat for vet visits throughout the dog's life to gain the most from each visit.
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My only minor concern is that she isn't getting a lot of exercise this way, just a handful of runs around the garden each day, but I'm kind of assuming at this point that it's best to try and go at her pace as we build her trust and confidence?
Yes, good to simply allow her non-pressured time to adjust to her new people, new home and fenced garden. She's probably tired and overwhelmed. Try to limit the focus to her most simple, basic needs for the time being.
Try not to worry about exercise at this early stage for several reasons:
She's 5 years old and doesn't require an excessive amount of exercise. Her zoomies in the fenced garden are fine. Building her trust in you and her home environment is more important now.
Even young racers only run 1 or maximum 2 times per week for approximately 30 seconds on race day. Otherwise, they are in their kennel unless in their sand elimination area.
I'm in the U.S. but when we get newly retired foster Greyhounds from racing kennels/tracks, they arrive with very little endurance or pad toughness for walks.
Example: We start with 5 minute walks for the first several days, then 10 minute walks, etc. while slowly building up to 45 minutes as a long-term goal to reach in a couple of months.
A few benefits of building duration/distance slowly:
- Newly retired Greyhounds arrive with very soft paw pads which can become sore/damaged if walked too far too soon, especially if on hard surfaces. (Racers are used to soft sand surfaces.)
- Introduces Greyhounds to their new surroundings (neighborhood, people, strange looking dogs, cats, cars, trucks, strange noises, etc.) little by little in a respectful, less frightening manner.
- Builds their physical walking endurance (and pad toughness) within their comfort threshold.
Just a guess, but her paw pads might be a little sore from walking on snow too.
Years ago, one of our other dogs (different large breed) developed frostbite on paw pads during a short neighborhood walk on snow (possibly mixed with a little road salt/sand which made it worse). Vet taught us to limit walk times on snowy surfaces unless dogs wore boots, and to clean off paws after quick outings since snow/ice can get caught in between toe pads for an extended time.
Your new girl is lovely! She looks quite happy in her new home.
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Eugene is a handsome boy!
If thinking long-term, please keep in mind there's a reason Iams is so cheap.
Iams Proactive Health (aka: "green bag") is made with lower quality, undesired ingredients including corn, and by-products.
(Just because a dog poops solid poops does not mean their food is desired quality for optimal or average life health.)
Below is a snippet re: a few (of several) of it's controversial ingredients per Dog Food Advisor (link in post #7).
Ingredients are listed on dog food labels in order of quantity before cooking.
Iams Proactive Health Adult Large Breed
Ingredients: Chicken, corn meal, ground whole grain sorghum, chicken by-product meal, etc.
The first ingredient is chicken. Although a quality item, raw chicken contains about 80% water. After cooking, most of that moisture is lost, reducing the meat content to just a fraction of its original weight.
After processing, this item would account for a smaller part of the total content of the finished product.
The second ingredient is cornmeal, a coarsely ground flour made from dried corn. Corn is an inexpensive and controversial cereal grain of only modest nutritional value to a dog.
We do not consider corn a preferred component in any dog food.
The third ingredient is sorghum. Sorghum (milo) is a starchy cereal grain with a nutrient profile similar to corn.
The fourth ingredient is chicken by-product meal, a dry rendered product of slaughterhouse waste. It’s made from what’s left of a slaughtered chicken after all the prime cuts have been removed.
In addition to organs (the nourishing part), this stuff can contain almost anything — feet, beaks, undeveloped eggs — anything except quality skeletal muscle (conventional meat).
End snippet.
Side note: General recommendation for retired racing Greyhounds' healthy pet weight is being able to see the last two ribs, and feel the third to last rib. Seeing hip points is desirable. It usually equates to about 3-5 pounds above the Greyhound's racing weight.
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I'd take him to the vet for evaluation and veterinary medication. IMO, that's not a normal scratch.
BTW, I wouldn't put any non-veterinary topical treatment that close to the eye.
(Body heat melts Neosporin into a liquid which could easily drain into the eye.)
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I'm so sorry for your sad loss of Bam Bam. He appears to have been a wonderful lovie boy who found a very special home.
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Welcome to GreyTalk!
Ideally. dogs' stools should be well-formed and easy for dog to eliminate (vs. dog struggling to expel rock solid stools). It's fairly common for initial stools to be better formed than say a third elimination within the same walk. (Third stool elimination hasn't been in dog's system as long, but even a third stool should not be diarrhea.)
If Eugene appears a little food sensitive, a simple ingredient kibble might work well (e.g., one meat protein source + carb.). Please read ingredient labels and avoid corn products and by-products. A neutral dog food review site can help determine a healthy food selection. Here's a free site: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/best-dog-foods/best-dry-dog-foods/
Too rapid a food transition can cause digestive upset. Some kibble manufacturers suggest a slow 3-4 week food transition -- slowly decreasing old food while adding small amounts of new food. Too many food switches are tough on Greyhounds, try give one food several months to evaluate.
Assuming Eugene's monthly wormer is actually a heartworm preventative like Heartgard Plus(?). If so, it's important to keep him on that monthly. That said, it doesn't correct infestations of other existing worms/parasites. He should have a fecal test done if it's been a while since his last fecal. Some worms (hookworms, etc.) can be very difficult to eliminate, and certain growth stages may not have shown up on an initial fecal test. Worms, parasites (giardia, etc.) can cause loose, smelly stools/gas no matter what food the dog is eating. Eugene's semi-anxiety might be related to his bowel urgency needs. Good to have a vet check his anal glands, especially since he's licking that area. Some dogs need their anal glands expressed manually.
If possible, consider trying to avoid flea sprays or dips on Greyhounds. Greys can be especially sensitive to those chemicals. Most Greyhounds tolerate "Advantage" (for fleas) or "Frontline" (fleas+ticks). Both are topical drop solutions to dab near base of neck (between shoulder blades).
Re: your departures: I'd suggest dog proofing all rooms in which Eugene has access (similar to child-proofing for an extra, extra tall toddler). If you don't have a baby-gate, close all bedroom and closet doors, remove food from kitchen counters etc. If cabinet handles or other hook-like items are not within Eugene's access, I agree to place his Greyhound turn-out muzzle on (leaving about 1" space between his nose + muzzle).
Good luck, and please let us know how things go for Eugene.
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Glad she's adjusting well to her new home, crate and your school schedule.
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Wonderful 14 year young hound awakens several times a night to reposition on dog bed. I awaken instantly to readjust jammies to ensure there's no pressure on hound's throat (medical condition).
Demands exact meal times; needs extra evening potty outings.
I'm more grateful than ever to be gifted this special time, and gladly jump to her service!
Nearly 12 y.o. senior enjoys playing capture, shake and attack the 8' long runner rug (in the wall-to-wall carpeted living room). Rug must be smoothed out daily (without excessive hounds standing on rug to prevent straightening).
Another hound has real issues:
MUST climb onto our laps for intense snuggles and excessive face bathing kisses.
Grabs a mouthful of food, walks 10 feet away to drop it on carpet to eat.
Sometimes becomes insistent when ringing hounds' doorbell to go outside to potty now (not waiting 1 minute for humans' convenience).
Insists on burying face on human's chest for lovies first whenever having paws wiped off after outings.
Must offer humans (downstairs) gifts of bath mats (from upstairs).
Another hound had temper tantrums when younger pouncing the floor with both front legs demanding meals; neck/head snuggle humans attempting poop patrol, etc.
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Greyhounds are the BEST dogs ever!
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Many excellent suggestions: non-slip rugs, preventing tags from hitting his bowl, etc.
Any vet reply re: Spock's heart, or result of visit with his Greyhound buddies?
(Greyhounds' hearts are naturally larger than other breeds but seems your vet knows that.)
Other considerations:
Greyhounds thrive on a consistent schedule in their familiar environment. It's not uncommon for travel coupled with many new humans to increase a dog's cautionary levels. Many dogs need to feel confident and comfortable in their environment to eat well. Increased feelings of uncertainty (changes) can affect a dog's behavior for a while, even after returning home.
- Provide a potty outing immediately before meals. (Many dogs nervously refuse to eat if they need to eliminate first.)
- Do you wet Spock's kibble? If not, try adding water (as others mentioned).
If still no change in meal interest; next time let kibble soak until kibble is soft. If appetite improves with softened kibble, Spock might have more gum/tooth pain than the vet realized. (BTW, please don't leave wet kibble at room temperature longer than 45 minutes to 1 hour; bacteria multiplies rapidly if left unrefrigerated too long.)
- If Spock refuses breakfast, try not to worry too much (unless he's on medication that requires food). Simply offer his regular meal at dinner time (or lunch time). If he's not able to finish his full daily portion, try offering another meal closer to bedtime.
Dogs feed off of humans' emotions. If humans become stressed re: feeding meals, dogs are more likely to emotionally shut down, and associate meals with stress. After a dog finishes eating, it's fine to happily praise the dog for his/her good job of eating.
One of our hounds is an omega in the pack. She won't eat until all other hounds have finished eating, and have retreated to their beds to relax. Many times she skips breakfast (lack of early A.M. hunger, or she becomes too anxious to eat if she fears her human/s might be leaving the house). She'll often eat better at dinner, other times she won't eat anything until just before bedtime (increased hunger and/or when she knows humans won't leave). She eats best when humans sit down to relax in view on the opposite side of room (away from her bowl), or while humans are otherwise occupied cooking/cleaning the kitchen. She always refuses meals until after she's eliminated.
Good luck with Spock. Please let us know how he progresses.
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Likely possibilities: hunger; uncomfortable body temperature; urine/bowel/tummy discomfort; too much sleeping/boredom overall; uncomfortable bedding.
I'd suggest providing all below (if you're not already doing so):
1. Rapid-pace leashed walks/exercise (if she's physically able) and favorite sniffing spots, plus mind stimulation during daytime.
2. Provide a bedtime snack (e.g., 1/3 cup of kibble).
3. Watch her eliminations during potty outings, especially the last bedtime outing to ensure she's fully eliminating.
4. Provide extra thick dog bed/s in draft free place (not just a blanket/comforter on the floor).
5. Be aware of inside or outside neighbors' noises at that time.
6. During day, happily practice teaching her a verbal cue: "Go to your bed" (or place), and reward with special treats/praise/toy.
Later, cue that behavior during overnight times, but only when you're sure she doesn't need a potty outing.
7. As others mentioned, Greyhounds are temperature sensitive, she may need to wear Greyhound jammies during winter.
8. Temporarily block access to your face while you're sleeping.
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Tricia and Burke,
My deepest, sincere sympathy is with you as you process this terribly difficult loss of your beloved Murray.
Murray was a treasure. How fortunate that Burke encouraged your visit to the kennel that day, and that you opened your hearts to him as a diamond in the rough.
As tears flowed throughout your memorial, I understand that intense and unique bond we build with our rare heart hounds that require the most special care. Spending full time with our hounds intensifies our losses. Murray will be remembered fondly and missed by so many of us.
Godspeed Murray as he joins Bee. May his spirit remain embedded in your hearts until you meet again.
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U.S. Greyhounds are sent to adoptive homes with kennel muzzles to be used as needed. They're helpful in early stages of pet home life, going to vet's offices, etc. Perhaps your region has a similar muzzle that allows for panting, drinking water, etc.
http://gemgreyhounds.org/GEM-Store/kennel-muzzle/
ETA: Secure a floor length mirror across the room from her crate. She will see her reflection as another Greyhound (who won't harm her). Ensure direct sun will not hit the mirror.
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Congratulations on your new Greyhound arrival!Your young girl has been through many changes in her short life. It will take time for her to settle into her new family, home and environment. Think in terms of baby steps. A great thing I read in your post: she feels comfortable enough to rest on her bed when you leave the room. That can be a nice sign of independent behavior.
Great if you and your husband share dog duties: walks, feeding meals, offering praise, affection, positive reward-based training ("capture" her natural desired actions, teach verbal cue and treat reward). Shared duties encourage dogs to view both humans equally vs. depending fully on only one person. Occasionally rewarding good behavior with toys also helps encourage independent behavior. Avoid fanfare during departures/returns.
- Immediately begin practicing many brief crate and baby-gate sessions in the humans' most used rooms.
Feed meals in her closed door crate.
Meal = dog's reward = good things happen for dogs in crates. (Never use crate as punishment.)
As soon as she finishes her meal, quietly open crate door and take her out to potty.
Happily praise for good eliminations outside!
- Periodically toss treats into her crate as a fun game, just to let her run in to grab her reward/s and step back out as freely as she desires.
- Other times give her a workable Kong treat in the crate (practice with crate door open and closed). Initially stay in the room reading, watching TV, etc. When she seems comfortable, try walking out of the room for brief periods. Back and forth...
Important: Each time you return to her pick up the Kong. (Kong is given as her high value "special treat" only.)
(Workable treats like a Kong with plain peanut butter smeared inside or plain meat baby food. Plain yogurt is fine if your dog enjoys yogurt. Don't freeze the Kong while you're home during training. Some dogs are less receptive to frozen treats. That said, frozen Kongs last longer and are better for food safety when humans are gone for several hours. Kongs should be washed daily. Kibble dispensing cube toys are good too (perhaps for baby-gated practice sessions).
- When she's tired/resting/sleeping inside her open door crate, casually walk by and close crate door with her inside for 30 min.+/- while she can see you calmly working on a computer or watching TV. Then casually unlock crate door without saying a word. Go back to your seat. The goal is for her to feel comfortable in her crate as her safe, happy place.
- Repeat same process with her in the most used baby-gated room with a thick comfortable dog bed (or crate as her only bed if it's in the same room). Alone training house departures work similarly.
Dogs usually dislike being separated from their humans/pack behind closed room doors, so it doesn't surprise me that she reacted when you and DH set-up her crate behind a closed door.
Regarding getting locked-out of your apartment: Try not to worry too much about her reaction. That was an unexpected situation. She's too young and too new to have been left free and unsupervised in the apt. I'd consider it a good sign that she didn't have an elimination accident, especially when it was time for her potty walk. (Sometimes if dogs are feeling highly anxious, they lose control of their urine or bowel within minutes of the person's departure. That was not your girl.) Your girl's vocalizations might have been a call for your return so she could be taken outside to eliminate. Otherwise...
Talk radio or "Calm Dog" music might help curb whining/barking. Some vocalization is common in any breed's early adjustment period, especially as an only dog in another new place. Ask your neighbors for their understanding while you're working to help your newly retired racer become adjusted to family home life.
Racing Greyhounds are short sprinters (in U.S., races last approx. 30 seconds, and a Greyhound only races 1 or 2 times a week). Upon adoption, walking may be increased gradually to build endurance and paw pad toughness. Newly retired hounds usually arrive with soft paw pads. Too much walking too soon, especially on hard surfaces can backfire with sore/damaged pads, hounds reluctant to take walks, etc. Generally, building in 10 minute increments works well during early weeks. Helps to check pads after walks at least a few times per week.
Being attacked by other dogs can be quite traumatic. It's natural that she's cautious/fearful of dogs for the time being. Be careful to not push her too soon. Remember baby steps. Keep this scary new world as simple as possible until she's ready to take new steps. Allow her time to adjust to her new humans, apartment, and potty walks first. She will change and blossom in 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years and beyond. Try to be patient and enjoy each stage.
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Great news!
She may have started whining upon hearing mom's car pull in the parking lot to spring her outta that place!
She'll be as good as new soon. Thanks for the nice update.
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Thinking about Ruby today, and checking in...
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Thanks Pam. I realized that after reading your initial post. My post has been clarified.
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Can you take your girl to work with you?
(If you work inside a building without excessive noise/chemical fumes.)
We have a Greyhound with extreme genetic separation and isolation anxiety. (Now a senior.)
Find veterinarian savvy in behavioral medications.
It's time to begin and wait for long acting stronger medication to work.
Prozac worked well to calm our hound.
Short acting medications can be different for each hound. (Xanax increased anxiety for our girl.)
(Our vet wasn't comfortable prescribing Trazadone due to lack of veterinary drug studies.)
Another Greyhound visitor is an ideal test.
Secondary is a friend's similar size dog.
Your girl might need to be with a human.
Please contact Greyhound groups in your region for support.
Groups may know Greyhound adopters closer to you who would be happy to help with physical care. NY State Greyhound groups listed here: http://www.adopt-a-g....cfm?usState=ny
In case you missed this in your previous thread:
Agree with Neylasmom.
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window foam crack sealer... inside the muzzle on the back portion that touches the hound's nose.
Chad, I may have misinterpreted this.
Clarification: Not sure if ready-made window foam strips are toxic to inhale for long periods at such close contact (most likely not healthy), but canned instant foam crack sealants should never be used.
They are hazardous: Category 4 Acute Inhalation Toxicity.
Cancer causing carcinogen.
Material Safety Data Sheet: http://www.dow.com/webapps/msds/ShowPDF.aspx?id=090003e8806249a4
Edited for clarification.
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One of our Greyhounds had the same toe amputated (front left paw, far outside digit) four years ago, at age 10. Previous veterinary treatments + limited activity for 3 months resulted in no improvement (included constant limping). Final X-rays were evaluated by several local vets, and Dr. Couto. IIRC, dx was inconclusive but likely degenerative joint disease (DJD). Post toe amputation, all remaining toes have remained healthy to date.
A few tips if you end up having your boy's toe amputated:
- Paint that single toenail a bright color (like pink or yellow) with nail polish, and alert the surgeon to the polish so there is no mistaking which toe is to be removed during surgery.
- Ensure the surgeon removes the entire toe by cutting at the uppermost joint, and leaving rounded bone (meaning don't leave excess bone that could touch ground when hound is standing). This will prevent painful walking later, and prevents ongoing damage from excess sharp/pointed bone poking through skin.
- All our Greyhounds get a vet prescription for aminocaproic acid (5 day duration) to prevent excessive bleeding during and post surgeries. Costco pharmacy for tablets, or a compounding pharmacy for (dog safe) liquid form (beef flavor) are good options.
Note: GTer Macoduck noted a recent hefty price increase in her area for Amicar (a trade name for aminocaproic acid). Advance price check is recommended. If too expensive, an alternate drug appears to be tranexamic acid mentioned here: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/316234-after-a-dental/?p=5894028
I don't recall toe amputation recovery time, but our hound healed well and functions normally.
That paw does seem a little more sensitive to being handled than the other paws, but amputation was the best decision in this case.
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Please, please open and read this link written by a veterinary behaviorist, Dr. Sophia Yin:
http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/kids-and-dogs-how-kids-should-and-should-not-interact-with-dogs
Ruby may be in pain (dental, etc.) and feeling a shorter temper; however, we teach all our adopters that children should not be permitted to approach dogs while they are lying down. General rule for dog owners: "Let resting dogs lie" without being disturbed.
Safer to wait until the dog is standing and has walked away from her/his bed, and willing to accept brief, gentle petting on the dog's side (not in front of dog's face). Petting a dog's shoulder area (child is on same side) is much less threatening than reaching over a dog's head. Better yet, wait for the dog to approach the child if the dog wants attention.
BTW, an occupied baby carrier/seat should never be placed on floor level with any dog.
Good that you listened to Ruby's communication warnings. Remember to not let anyone scold Ruby for growling, showing teeth, etc. because her growl is a clear communication gift to humans that she's feeling overstimulated, uncomfortable with the situation, or is in pain. If a growl is punished, she may learn to skip a growl and go to a bite next time just to get her point across.
After surviving a severe dog bite as a young child; then seeing multiple dog bite incidents thereafter; IMO, you're very lucky that younger Ruby previously tolerated such child invasive behavior. Just because any dog is likely good with children doesn't mean they're a stuffed animal without boundaries.
Again, here's Dr. Sophia Yin's article to please read:
http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/kids-and-dogs-how-kids-should-and-should-not-interact-with-dogs
Congratulations on your new Greyhound arrival!
I Will Be Lurking... But Thought I Should Say Hi!
in Introductions & Biography
Posted
How great that you're doing research well in advance of your future canine addition!
Enjoy the GT forum.