How Would You Train A Grey Puppy?

[Guest Roadtripper]

So how have you trained a grey puppy? Or if you had a chance to raise your racer from puppyhood, what would you do?

 

In addition to my muzzle-training post, I'm just wondering what advice you may have on training a grey puppy? I've started re-reading the many training books I've aquired over the years for my grey/shep mix, Boojum, so I can put together a program for my 6 month old puppy, Cairo. I'm realizing quickly that she'll be a lot different to train than my boy was.

 

What behaviors/commands do you feel are most important to train in a grey puppy? (And if you feel like sharing how you go about it, that would be great!)

 

Any books/trainers/methods that you feel has worked really well with a grey?

 

I plan on going to an obedience class with Cairo but it'll be awhile before I can since I'm now paying off Booj's suprise surgery last week. I'd like to get started now (she knows sit, down, & shake, but need to start training the important stuff like come).

 

I'm especially interested in recall training (she won't be off leash--Booj can't be trusted off leash, so I'm used to that, but there's been a few times he's still gotten away from me). Also training in regards to space aggression (she has a few hints that it might become an issue if I'm not smart about how to handle things now).

 

Many thanks!

Amy

[krissy]

As far as I'm concerned there are only 2 things a dog MUST know. As in there are no excuses for any dog to not know it and do it absolutely reliably. Come and stay. Any dog. Greyhound or not. It's such a huge pet peeve of mind that people's dogs know how to sit, down, shake a paw, and roll over, but they don't have a reliable recall or stay. Sitting is probably never going to save your dog's life, although certainly it is important in other ways. I don't care if a dog never has a moment off leash outside a fenced yard... accidents and mistakes happen.

 

In terms of training, it's not too hard for most dogs. It's just important to not get frustrated, practice often but not for long, and always reward success.

 

Stay/Wait - For puppies I start training this with their meals. I put the food bowl down in front of them and give them the command to stay. Puppy obviously immediately lunges for the bowl. I block them with a hand and grab the bowl up if I have to. Put the puppy back where it was and repeat. After a couple repetitions the pup should start to catch on and hesitate before lunging. When you have a good hesitation you just have to give the release command before the pup can lunge. You say "okay" and allow the puppy to dive into the food bowl. Over time you extend the amount of time you require the pup to wait. Then you move on to other places and situations, such as the door at walk time. You start adding in distractions. When I add distractions I will come back and reward the dog for not moving but I won't release him yet. So, for example... I ask Summit to down and wait, then I throw his stuffy across the room. If he jumps up I tell him "ah ah", back him up and ask him to down and wait. If he just watches the toy and doesn't break from his down then I say "yes" and give him a treat, then remind him he hasn't been released by repeating the stay command. Then I'll go get his leash and if he doesn't break he gets a treat and a reminder that he's still staying where he is. Eventually I release him with "okay" and give him a big reward. It's important to work in as many situations as possible with as many distractions as possible, working up slowly based on the dog's abilities.

 

Recall - You can start recall in the house or on walks with a leash. You call the dog and then give a little encouragement with the leash (or in the house by tapping on the floors, patting your knees and otherwise being interesting to the dog). When the dog comes, big celebration and treats. When the dog does this reliably you can go to a longer leash. Repeat until reliable. Take the dog to a small enclosed space (backyard, tennis court, etc.) and call the dog. When he comes he gets a big reward and lots of praise. If he ignores your call then you go over and get him and bring him over to where you were standing... give LOTS of praise and treats even though you had to go get him. Never get mad when your dog ignores your call and always make a huge deal about it when he does finally come. The hardest part of recall training is distractions. Every dog is different about what distractions are the hardest to overcome. For Summit it's when he is running, especially with other dogs. So we worked on that with a long line. I had a post about it on my blog awhile back showing how I worked on this training with him: http://apexagilitygreyhounds.blogspot.ca/2011/10/most-important-lesson.html

[Guest meggera]

As I stated in your muzzle training thread, I’m a huge fan of positive reinforcement training, more specifically, clicker training. I have had wild success training Vanille with the use of a clicker. I know you mentioned that obedience classes were not in the budget at this time but when your finances do allow for it I recommend working with a reputable trainer who uses only positive reinforcement training. The Humane Society Utah has an on-site trainer named Michelle Rizzi (Handle with Care Dog Training) who has a four week basic manners class that is $100. Another fabulous positive reinforcement training center is Calling All Dogs. They offer a wider variety of classes if you wanted to explore tricks, agility, nose work, or free style down the line. Their basic obedience course is six weeks and runs at $150 but I personally think it is well worth the cost.

 

Since you are starting training by yourself there a few books/websites I have found to be invaluable resources for me. I apologize in advance if you are already familiar with them. First is Dogstar Daily. This website has a lot of great articles on positive reinforcement training methods and techniques. You can also check out the Clicker Training Basics on the Karen Pryor website. You may want to check out from the local library Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor or The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller. These are both great books that can help build a foundation. Have you had a chance to read Retired Racing Greyhounds for Dummies? It is a real gem.

 

Congratulations on your newest addition!

Edited April 6, 2012 by meggera

[greysmom]

Whatever you choose to teach her, positive reinforcement training is a must. They are so smart and maleable as puppies! Lilly literally learns commands in only a couple of repetitions when I make it fun for her. She doesn't really care much for treats yet, but I've used a small squeaky toy as a reward and that works well for her.

 

It's all about training them to have impulse control and to learn to do what you ask and not just do what they want. I agree with Krissy that recall and stay are extremely important for any dog. It's also a LOT easier to teach a greyhound puppy to sit than it is an adult, so I would also add that in. Leave it is a great command for impulse control, and also important for a puppy who likes to pick up everything in their mouth.

[Guest Giselle]

I would train a greyhound puppy the same way I would train a "regular" dog/chicken/horse/cat/etc. = Understand and correctly apply principles of learning theory (positive reinforcement + negative punishment and, to a lesser extent, positive punishment and negative reinforcement.

 

That's it. This is all you need. If you truly understand these four quadrants, you can easily teach impulse control, basic obedience, advanced tricks, etc.

 

Positive reinforcement is but ONE of the FOUR quadrants of learning theory. It is not a "method" of training. It is simply one part of learning. It is extremely difficult to explain all of this online, and it can be a complicated subject. So, I'd recommend you find a well-educated trainer who has a solid background in animal behavior and learning theory. This is a great start: http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/dog-trainers-walkers

 

For easy and new-dog-friendly reading, I'd recommend:

Patricia McConnell (http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/category/dog-training-books)

Sophia Yin (http://drsophiayin.com/dogproducts)

Jean Donaldson (http://www.jeandonaldson.com/)

 

And, yes, I have trained all of the above mentioned species. So, no, training a greyhound puppy is no harder and no more special than any of the above. If your understanding of animal learning theory is solid, you can easily train anything at all.

[cleptogrey]

all of the info above is right on the money, especially the come and stay commands.sighthounds are bred to be independent thinkers and hunt by sight rather than taking commands from thier human handler. always remember that but don't let that info go to your pup's head. greyhounds train much easier than the salukis that i have owned but i will mention that during adolensence they forget EVERYTHING that they knew! yup, your bright, hardworking, reliable pup goes blank. i thought that my friend who is a vet who also had a greyhound puppy (grown when i had felix as a young pup) was kidding. she too had enrolled her boy in a ton of obedience classes and he was initially BRILLIANT! but somewhere around 9 months it went down the drain. both of us used the same training club as well. my instructor/friend(we trained together many dogs ago) whose classes i was enrolled in was shocked.felix was doing beautifully then one night we showed up and felix was BLANK! totally out of control and couldn't focus on anything. that's adolescene. this too shall pass, but that's the reason i decided to neuter him around 9 months of age(couldn't deal w/ raging hormones and a brain that was flatlining). enjoy puppyhood, enjoy being bit on the arm, enjoy all the crazy antics that come w/ youth and ENJOY training!

 

watch out during those recall practices in class- felix has knocked me off my feet more than once w/ his exuberant recall. i learned to step into him as he bolts to me at 30+mph!

Edited April 7, 2012 by cleptogrey

[Guest Roadtripper]

Thanks everyone! This is very helpful. I'll be hunting down your book suggestions at the library/on Amazon, and I'm already working on "stay" per krissy's post. We'll start working on a recall once I'm thru this super busy weekend (lots of family stuff--Cairo has been introduced to my extended family & they're all in love).

 

As I stated in your muzzle training thread, I’m a huge fan of positive reinforcement training, more specifically, clicker training. I have had wild success training Vanille with the use of a clicker. I know you mentioned that obedience classes were not in the budget at this time but when your finances do allow for it I recommend working with a reputable trainer who uses only positive reinforcement training. The Humane Society Utah has an on-site trainer named Michelle Rizzi (Handle with Care Dog Training) who has a four week basic manners class that is $100. Another fabulous positive reinforcement training center is Calling All Dogs. They offer a wider variety of classes if you wanted to explore tricks, agility, nose work, or free style down the line. Their basic obedience course is six weeks and runs at $150 but I personally think it is well worth the cost.

 

Since you are starting training by yourself there a few books/websites I have found to be invaluable resources for me. I apologize in advance if you are already familiar with them. First is Dogstar Daily. This website has a lot of great articles on positive reinforcement training methods and techniques. You can also check out the Clicker Training Basics on the Karen Pryor website. You may want to check out from the local library Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor or The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller. These are both great books that can help build a foundation. Have you had a chance to read Retired Racing Greyhounds for Dummies? It is a real gem.

 

Congratulations on your newest addition!

 

Thanks for the local trainer suggestions, Meggera! Those sound good--I think I would be interested in ongoing classes with Cairo, if she seems to enjoy it. I had been looking at Willow Creek's website about their training--have you heard anything about them?

 

I've also bought several greyhound books from Amazon, but didn't get the Dummies one even though I keep reading recommendations. I wondered if it would still be helpful since I don't have a retired racer?

 

Meggera--I've tried to pick up your PM, but it won't let me--says I don't have permission to use the PM system or something like that. Am I still too new? I'll keep trying.

 

Thanks again, everyone!

Happy Easter,

Amy, Boojum, & Cairo

[greysmom]

You have to have 50 posts (from sections OTHER than Cute & Funny to use the PM system.

[Guest SpicyMom]

I've raised two from pups (one lurcher). Agree with all above. What did I do right? Recall using a squeaker (squirrel worked best)with treats or lots of praise. Sit and wait. I make them sit and wait for everything, especially attention. If they want something, whether to go out, to eat, or just to get my attention, they know the faster way is to sit down and wait for me to notice! What did I not do right? I did not start early enough with my older dog to cut her nails myself. I would take her to the vet because I was nervous. By the time the second dog came 18 months later, the older dog would not let me go near her nails (although I can brush her teeth just fine.) I started right away with my second girl to do what I always did with the cats - play and massage her feet when she was relaxed. As a result, my second girl now rolls on to her back, puts all four feet in the air and let's me trim away. My first girl? Screams bloody murder if she sees the trimmer. Since we've moved overseas, I don't have easy access to the vet and so must sneak trim one or two nails while she's sleeping!

 

Otherwise? Socialize socialize socialize and with all sorts of dogs, not just greyhounds. The greater variety they know when they are young, the less reactive they are when they are older. My first girl spent a lot of time with little dogs when she was a pup and to this day, she prefers a pug or terrier to just about any other dog!

 

 

One last thing which I learned the hard way. Most other greyhounds you will meet will be retired racers. Your pup, growing up in a very different environment (i.e. not a racing kennel with lots of other greyhounds) won't necessarily speak the same language. Be very careful when you do bring her to play with other older hounds. She may want to play with them like other dogs but unlike other dogs, if they chase her, they can catch her. And, if there is more than one, they can get a bit of a gang mentality and possibly hurt her if they get excited by the chase.

Edited April 9, 2012 by SpicyMom

[Guest meggera]

I personally think retired racer or not that the for dummies book is an awesome read with all kinds of helpful information.

 

I have heard of Willow Creek Pet Center but don't have any personal experience with them. No matter what trainer you do decide to work with down the line I would see if they would allow you to come and observe a class. I would think that they would be thrilled to have you observe and it would provide you with the tools to determine if the teaching environment and style is one that will work for you and your pup.

 

Since we can't PM here you are welcome to email me at meggera@comcast.net if you want to chat more personally.

[Guest Roadtripper]

I've raised two from pups (one lurcher). Agree with all above. What did I do right? Recall using a squeaker (squirrel worked best)with treats or lots of praise. Sit and wait. I make them sit and wait for everything, especially attention. If they want something, whether to go out, to eat, or just to get my attention, they know the faster way is to sit down and wait for me to notice! What did I not do right? I did not start early enough with my older dog to cut her nails myself. I would take her to the vet because I was nervous. By the time the second dog came 18 months later, the older dog would not let me go near her nails (although I can brush her teeth just fine.) I started right away with my second girl to do what I always did with the cats - play and massage her feet when she was relaxed. As a result, my second girl now rolls on to her back, puts all four feet in the air and let's me trim away. My first girl? Screams bloody murder if she sees the trimmer. Since we've moved overseas, I don't have easy access to the vet and so must sneak trim one or two nails while she's sleeping!

 

Otherwise? Socialize socialize socialize and with all sorts of dogs, not just greyhounds. The greater variety they know when they are young, the less reactive they are when they are older. My first girl spent a lot of time with little dogs when she was a pup and to this day, she prefers a pug or terrier to just about any other dog!

 

 

One last thing which I learned the hard way. Most other greyhounds you will meet will be retired racers. Your pup, growing up in a very different environment (i.e. not a racing kennel with lots of other greyhounds) won't necessarily speak the same language. Be very careful when you do bring her to play with other older hounds. She may want to play with them like other dogs but unlike other dogs, if they chase her, they can catch her. And, if there is more than one, they can get a bit of a gang mentality and possibly hurt her if they get excited by the chase.

 

SpicyMom - thanks for this advice! I work at a dog daycare/boarding place, so Cairo is getting lots of socialization with other breeds, but yeah, she's not going to come in contact with other greys much. It wouldn't have occurred to me that I'd need to be cautious about taking her to a play group someday if an opportunity comes up, so thanks for the heads up.

 

Also, we have a wonderful groomer at work who I've always had do my dog's nails, but it makes sense I should start working with Cairo on this just so she'll let me if I need to.

 

Thanks again everyone!

Amy