Sighthounds4me

I didn't see the answer, but Feliway does not affect the dogs. I don't even know if they notice it. You can get it in a spray and a plug in. You can use both if you want/need to.

While the loss of sexual hormones plays a role, especially for males, I've not seen it to be a major factor in musculature. Most hounds fed a nutritious, high protein diet, and given enough exercise can stay muscled and very fit into the double digits. The seniors will have leaner muscle mass than they had as young adults. Other than that, the changes people see in the 6-12 months off the track have to do with a decrease in dietary nutrition and lack of exercise. Retired hounds with an active human who focuses on his/her hounds fitness won't see the dramatic change that those of the inactive couch potato variety experience. I'm not suggesting that a sexually altered dog cannot maintain muscle mass, and an appropriate weight. What I am saying is that he distribution tends to change. I have seen it in my own dogs, and those of people I am close with: those that are altered seem to have thicker muscling around the waist for example. They ARE NOT fat, not by a long shot. But the locations of muscle on the body are subtly different. My intact males are wiry, and have leaner muscle, while my neutered male has thicker muscle over most of his body. He is not overweight, but has a different shape.

I know it's off-topic, but I just wanted to say this: Dee, you are SO SUPPORTIVE! I have noticed this in the past, on other threads, but just wanted to let you know. While it does not apply to me specifically, I want to let you know that I, at least, appreciate it!

Naples is 10 years old, and still has a significant amount of her muscle mass. She is not like a racer anymore, but not bad for an old girl! She has always been very active, though, and runs a lot, thus she has always maintained well. The key is to get them running. Free running is best, but road work is good too (walking/running enough to get them to trot. Biking is good too, if the dog would need to move faster.) Having the dogs I do, and wanting to keep them in shape (especially the show dogs, since they need to be in good condition), I have learned what it takes to keep a large sighthound in shape. It helps to have multiples, so they exercise each other, and a large space for them to run. A few years ago, we moved from a small lot in the city to a large space out in the sticks, to give the boys somewhere to really run (they were 2 at the time). We now have a puppy/adolescent dog that needs to run and play to maintain muscle, and develop bone. So far, he is doing well, but I do need to start road work with him. He is solid muscle, but I'd like to see more. *ETA: It's important to remember, also, that the body structure is going to change with sexual alteration. Testosterone and estrogen really effect the muscle mass, and the loss of them is going to change how that mass is distributed. I think that is the main reason why Greyhounds seem to change/"lose" muscle mass after retirement.

We've done it before with Naples, with success. Just the usual upset tummy that any antibiotic can cause. We usually go with cephalexin (Keflex), because it's less expensive.

I've heard of this kind of thing before. Not quite this type of injury, but similar. I am sorry this happened to you and your family! I pray for a good recovery! Another reason for breakaway collars...

VERY true! I always liked Patricia McConnell's example of this: If I gave you $20 every time you clapped your hands, you'd clap a lot. If I suddenly stopped, you'd be confused, but you'd keep clapping. You would probably start clapping louder, more often, and right in my face. Soon, you'd realize it's useless, and stop. Then, if I rewarded you for NOT clapping, you'd sit there quietly, waiting for your money. So yes, it might take some time to see improvement, but it will come!

I had a Borzoi foster with similar symptoms. We tried several things, including DAP, training, Rescue Remedy, and the like. For him, nothing worked, till we got him on amitriptyline (anxiety med prescribed by the vet - brand name is Elavil - available from the human pharmacy) and LOTS of exercise. At the time, I was unemployed, and it was winter, so I would put him outside with Cooper, and they'd play. He'd get good and tired, so I would leave the house for a couple hours (go shopping, to the library, whatever). When I'd come back, he'd be fine. No destruction, no messes, and no noise. If I absolutely could not allow enough time to wear him out playing, I'd give him 2-3 melatonin tablets, and it would conk him out. He has been in his adoptive home for a few years now, and has been fine. He had been weaned off the meds within a couple months, and has done well! ETA: as far as the comings and goings, I subscribe to the calm school of thought. I figure, I lead by example, so if I am calm when I leave, and when I come home, it tells the dog that's what I want. In addition, if she is excited as you walk in, and you give her attention, you are reinforcing that behavior. You are letting her know that you are happy with it, and that's what you want. Instead, you should wait till she's calm and relaxed, and praise for that. JMHO, of course!

If he's looking for a general training book, one that helps teach a dog manners, I like Good Owners, Great Dogs by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson. For more in depth, behavior related things, I love Patricia McConnell's The Other End of the Leash.

I am just seeing this now, as I do not check the intro forum often. But WELCOME ABOARD! I am from Green Bay, too! (well, actually Suamico, but close enough!)

Jey, I am so sorry you lost her! I am happy for you, that you had your time with her! She was a beauty!

I can definitely get it to you! But I need your email address (or if you want to email me, I am sighthounds4me@gmail.com). I can't get the attachment to save, so I can forward it without the original email. I believe you would have to have an ILP (or whatever they call it now) on your Greyhound to do the AKC events; forgive me, I don't think about it, because my 'zoi are all AKC registered, and thus would be eligible (they are the ones I would course). But you do not have to pre-enter like for conformation/obedience events. You can enter on the date of the event, by a certain time in the morning. You would, however, pay a higher entry fee. I do not know if there are any later in the season...I am new to this myself! I am not able to attend, but may send my puppy with his breeder. He needs a JC!

Since you are in IA, there is an AKC lure-coursing event in Des Moines June 19. I can send you the premium list, if you want it.

My heart is with you, Lucy! You have my prayers!

I'd also like to add this: If you are committed to keeping Ross, I would like to suggest NOT seeing a trainer. Instead, HAVE A BEHAVIORIST COME TO YOU! Trainers want to alter behavior based on what a dog should do. Behaviorists analyze the situation, and modify the behavior of the humans and the dog. For example, have you watched shows like "It's Me or the Dog"? Victoria Stillwell refers to herself as a trainer, but in my mind, she is a behaviorist, because she observes the behavior, and modifies her training techniques accordingly. I do not always agree with all of her techniques, but she is a good example of what a trainer should be in a situation like this. Better yet, a behaviorist is called for in a situation like this. ESPECIALLY if that behaviorist is one who also understands primate (human) behavior, and how that differs from canine behavior. Canines almost never bite without warning. But that warning is often so subtle that we as humans do not even notice it. Often, in a situation where a dog is unsure, his first cue will be to look away to break tension. Sometimes this is followed by a yawn (calming signal), also to break tension. If the dog can, he will walk away. If not, you usually get the hard stare, growl, shown teeth, or the like. Then comes the bite. There is almost never NO warning at all. And that is where the suggestion of reading books like The Other End of the Leash comes in. Patricia McConnell is an applied animal behaviorist who specializes in canine behavior. She also has a fantastic grasp on primate behavior, and can relate to the reader how they differ, and what to do about it.

I read this thread last night, before I went to bed. I have thought about it long and hard, debating whether I should comment, out of experience. I won't go into details, but I have been bitten, too. It required sutures. I lost trust in the dog, and this is NOT something easily regained! For some people, that trust will never be regained, at least not in that individual dog. DO NOT downplay the trust issue. If your husband does not trust the dog, forcing him to interact is only going to result in disaster. His body language will change (probably already has) around Ross, which will lead to Ross being on edge. If he already feels threatened by your DH, and now DH is acting weird, what do you think the reaction is going to be? You say giving the dog up is not an option. For whom? You? Will you feel like a failure if you give up the dog? Would you rather feel like a failure, or have someone severely injured by this dog? I am a firm believer that environment can make or break a dog. I am not in any way saying that the OP's home environment is not conducive at all to owning a dog. But perhaps this individual should not be in this home. Perhaps a different Greyhound would be more appropriate, and Ross would do better with someone else. It's also possible that Ross has some medical problems (thyroid comes to mind, but that has all been hashed out in this thread already). He may also have a true temperament problem. We don't know - we are not there. But no matter the reason, I don't believe this home is the right one for him. Yes, I am being harsh. But, I don't want to see something terrible happen to the family members, other people visiting, or to the dog. To soften it up a bit: DON'T feel like a failure if you have to give up Ross! Many of us have had trial-and-error with dogs in our homes. It does not mean you are a failure, it simply means that some aspects of the dog's personality did not show till he/she got more comfortable in his/her home. It happens, but it does not mean that the human is a failure.

I LOVE the shedding blade (or hacksaw blade) on the Greyhound when she blows coat. A forced air dryer works on the rest, as well as weekly bathing. But remember, the dandruff is not a problem. It is associated with the shedding, and will likely stop when the shedding does.

Regarding drugs: I remember when Naples had what seemed like SA (To this day, I don't truly believe that's what it was). She had trouble not long after adoption, but the addition of another Greyhound really helped her. Then it came back after we moved, when we had two other dogs, so adding another would not have helped! I was so against using drugs to calm her. But the wonderful folks on GT suggested that it's not the end of the world, and it's not going to make her feel all strung out. If it helps her "get over the hump," that's what she needs. So, we started her on amitriptyline (brand name Elavil). Within a couple days, we no longer had the messing in the crate, or saw anxiety in her. I think she was on it for a month or two, and after that, was fine. We then had a Borzoi foster. Ours was his fifth home, before he was two years old! His was a moderate, not severe case of SA, but it was tough. He destroyed the crate pan, and drooled a lake the first day we went to work after he came to us, and DH had come home at noon! Poor guy! So, at the advice of the rescue's director, we started him on melatonin (a natural sleep supplement) and amitriptyline. The difference was almost immediate. I became unemployed not long after that, so I was able to put him and Cooper outside to play all day. The exercise and meds REALLY helped him! He has been drug-free in his adoptive home for a few years now!

I was thinking appeasment smile, or something similar with the muzzle. My Henley has VERY sensitive whiskers. When they are touched, he curls his lip. He is not snarling, or even really smiling. But he does show his teeth, and if one did not understand, it could look like a threat. Maybe that's all it is? As for the SA, maybe looking into drugs is in order. We used amitriptyline (Brand name Elavil) with a foster with very good success. As he settles in, the drug can be weaned down, and eventually out. (Just stay away from acepromezine, if the vet suggests it! Clomipramine (brand name Clomicalm)is another good one, though.)

Nina, I agree with you! These dogs (and I refer to sighthounds in general) are RUNNING dogs. You can't take that out of them, and they will run whether you want them to or not. But some of these reasons are simply absurd! For example: Not reminding them of their racing history. That is a very broad statement, and while it may be true for some, it probably isn't true for all. (However, I am not terribly familiar with Galgos, so my perception may be a little different on that). "-coursing is a competition and it encourages their hunting instinct and their wish to compete": Well, then, by that logic, no one should own more than one sighthound at all - they all run, and race each other, even on my backyard. That is competition, and we can't encourage that! SIX DAYS for adrenaline levels to get back to normal?!?! NO! Adrenaline levels are back to normal once a dog relaxes after running! that is a matter of hours! Not trained properly for lure coursing. Maybe, but that's why we as owners would need to do that before coursing them! "-hounds get crazy when they see lure coursing": And that's a reason NOT to course them?! That makes me believe they enjoy it, and why wouldn't we want our dogs to be happy? "-the essence of life with a hound is that we try to minimize their hunting instinct, we must not encourage it.": Why? In the right setting, yes. That's why we keep them on leash, for example. But all dogs were bred to do something, and I believe that to be happy, they should be able to do what they were bred to do! Just because we as owners don't WANT them to chase small things that move quickly, does not mean we should supress that urge. If we dislike it that much, we should not own sighthounds! "-lure coursing does not make hound happy (oh my god!!!) -things which are predicted, planned and required from greyhound, does not make them happy and satisfied" These people have never seen a hound course, have they? They do not care if the course is planned. In fact, I doubt they know. Dogs don't think spatially like humans. They have no concept of planning like that! And they seem pretty damn happy to run, or they would not do it, even in our backyards!

I have not done lure-coursing yet, but plan to later this month with my 'zoi puppy. BUT, the best advice I ever got, about lure-coursing is, get the book Sighthounds Afield By Denise Como. It's huge, it's involved, but it has a TON of very important information, from conditioning, to first aid, and more.

Well, then, in that case, I would say a vet visit is in order. Perhaps there is a physical reason he is more hungry, and therefore guarding food.

The following, in blue, was written By Kathleen Gilley. It highlights what it is that makes Greyhounds different than other breeds, and what we as adoptors need to understand. In the OP's case, the red section, in particular, is important. Of all breeds of dogs, the ex-racing Greyhound has never had to be responsible for anything in his life. His whole existence has been a dog-centered one. This breed has never been asked to do anything for itself, make any decisions or answer any questions. It has been waited on, paw and tail. The only prohibition in a racing Greyhound's life is not to get into a fight----------------or eat certain stuff in the turn out pen. Let us review a little. From weaning until you go away for schooling, at probably a year and a half, you eat, grow and run around with your siblings. When you go away to begin your racing career, you get your own "apartment," in a large housing development. No one is allowed in your bed but you, and when you are in there, no one can touch you, without plenty of warning. Someone hears a vehicle drive up, or the kennel door being unlocked. The light switches are flipped on. The loud mouths in residence, and there always are some, begin to bark or howl. You are wide awake by the time the human opens your door to turn you out. A Greyhound has never been touched while he was asleep. You eat when you are fed, usually on a strict schedule. No one asks if you are hungry or what you want to eat. You are never told not to eat any food within your reach. No one ever touches your bowl while you are eating. You are not to be disturbed because it is important you clean your plate. You are not asked if you have to "go outside." You are placed in a turn out pen and it isn't long before you get the idea of what you are supposed to do while you are out there. Unless you really get out of hand, you may chase, rough house and put your feet on everyone and every thing else. The only humans you know are the "waiters" who feed you, and the "restroom attendants" who turn you out to go to the bathroom. Respect people? Surely you jest. No one comes into or goes out of your kennel without your knowledge. You are all seeing; all knowing. There are no surprises, day in and day out. The only thing it is ever hoped you will do is win, place or show, and that you don't have much control over. It is in your blood, it is in your heart, it is in your fate-- or it is not. And when it is not, then suddenly you are expected to be a civilized person in a fur coat. But people don't realize you may not even speak English. Some of you don't even know your names, because you didn't need to. You were not asked or told to do anything as an individual; you were always part of the "condo association?; the sorority or fraternity and everyone did everything together, as a group or pack. The only time you did anything as an individual is when you schooled or raced, and even then, You Were Not Alone. In my "mobile abode," the Greyhounds each have several unique names, but they also have a single common name: it is Everybody. We continue to do things as a group, pack or as we are affectionately known in-house, by Kathleen's Husbandit, "The Thundering Herd." Back to those who have not been permanently homed. Suddenly, he is expected to behave himself in places he's never been taught how to act. He is expected to take responsibility for saying when he needs to go outside, to come when he is called, not to get on some or all of the furniture, and to not eat food off counters and tables. He is dropped in a world that is not his, and totally without warning, at that. Almost everything he does is wrong. Suddenly he is a minority. Now he is just a pet. He is unemployed, in a place where people expect him to know the rules and the schedule, even when there aren't any. (How many times have you heard someone say, "He won't tell me when he has to go out." What kind of schedule is that?) Have you heard the joke about the dog who says, "My name is No-No Bad Dog. What's yours?" To me that is not even funny. All the protective barriers are gone. There is no more warning before something happens. There is no more strength in numbers. He wakes up with a monster human face two inches from his. (With some people's breath, this could scare Godzilla.) Why should he not, believe that this "someone," who has crept up on him, isn't going to eat him for lunch? (I really do have to ask you ladies to consider how you would react if someone you barely knew crawled up on you while you were asleep?) No, I will not ask for any male input. Now he is left alone, for the first time in his life, in a strange place, with no idea of what will happen or how long it will be before someone comes to him again. If he is not crated, he may go though walls, windows or over fences, desperately seeking something familiar, something with which to reconnect his life. If he does get free, he will find the familiarity, within himself: the adrenaline high, the wind in his ears, the blood pulsing and racing though his heart once again--until he crashes into a car. Often, the first contact with his new family is punishment, something he's never had before, something he doesn't understand now, especially in the middle of the rest of the chaos. And worst of all, what are the most common human reactions to misbehavior? We live in a violent society, where the answer to any irritation is a slap, punch, kick, whip, or rub your nose in it. Under these circumstances, sometimes I think any successful adoption is a miracle. He is, in effect, expected to have all the manners of at least a six-year old child. But, how many of you would leave an unfamiliar six-year old human alone and loose in your home for hours at a time and not expect to find who knows what when you got back? Consider that if you did, you could be brought up on charges of child abuse, neglect and endangerment. Yet, people do this to Greyhounds and this is often the reason for so many returns. How many dogs have been returned because they did not know how to tell the adoptor when they had to go out? How many for jumping on people, getting on furniture, counter surfing, separation anxiety, or defensive actions due to being startled or hurt (aka growling or biting)? So, let's understand: Sometimes it is the dog's "fault" he cannot fit in. He is not equipped with the social skills of a six-year old human. But with your love and help, you can make it happen. Me again: Basically, your Greyhound is not used to people or other dogs messing with his food. Whatever is edible, he eats. YOU have to teach him that taking food away is okay. And, you have to separate him from other dogs when eating. None of my dogs are food aggressive, but we separate them. No need for stress at meal time! To teach him that it's okay, you need to "trade up." Place a low-value treat on the floor (your typical biscuit works well). Have ready a higher-vale treat (bits of cheese, for example). When he goes for the biscuit, step in front of it or cover it with your hand, and say "leave it." Immediately offer the cheese. Soon, he will begin to associate his action with something better. Then you can move up to using the high-value treat to get him to drop the low-value treat. If he sees that BETTER things come from you, he will understand that he gets something better than he has, for doing what you want.

Oh, regarding gates...Mine are all locked. I had an incident a year or so ago, where I had a guy just wandering around my yard. Backyard is fully fenced - he let himself in, to check cable stuff. I was shocked - I read the info on the cable company's website - they SHOULD HAVE called me to let me know they were coming, but even if they hadn't, it sure would have been nice if the guy had knocked on the door first! What if the dogs had been out there?! So, that night, DH and I bought lengths of chain and padlocks (our gate closures don't have the ability to be locked), and wrapped the gates to the fence posts and locked them. Now, no one can open the gates without me or DH - dogs can't get out that way!