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Jackandgrey

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    Keeping My Dog

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    My real question, the one that I guess I didn't do a very good job of phrasing before, is will she settle down in time?

    To this question, very likely, yes. You've already seen evidence of this. Dogs do best when they know what to expect and know what they're supposed to do. They get this from routine, structure, and consistent expectations. If you're willing and able to provide this type of structure and routine, your dog will get more confident and comfortable as time goes on.

     

    It's interesting, whenever there's a dog, particularly a new dog who's being put into a brand new environment, that exhibits behavioral issues, we try all kinds of things to try to get that dog back on track. I think the thing we forget is that one of the biggest factors in most dogs improving is the simple passing of time. It's during the passing of time that the dog is figuring things out, feeling safer, more confident, as it finally has a chance to understand who things work in its new world.

     

    Oh, and no. The fact that you're regularly gone 8 hrs a day is a non-issue. If anything, it becomes part of the dog's routine. If these dogs couldn't thrive and feel loved in a home where they have to be left alone for 8-10 hr increments, then no single person who works full time, or any couple who works full time, should ever own a dog. And anyone who implies that is spewing a big fat steaming pile of crap.

     

    Nicely said!

    Agressive Greyhound - Multiple Bites

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    Hi, I'm an old member and now an occasional lurker. I skimmed through the thread because I took a few days off from the laboratory as I recently came down with a cold (whoo hoo! way to ring in the New Year's!) :D

     

    I normally don't post much, but your dog's triggers were very loud and clear to me: Your dog has issues with people leaning over him. It's a threat, plain and simple. It's a natural threat that got exacerbated when you + hubby tried prying open his mouth to take away a tasty bone. So, now, he has generalized that threat to people leaning over to pick up keys, to pick up anything from the ground, to petting him while he's laying on the couch, etc. He's just hypersensitive to people learning over him now.

     

    The solution?

    1) DS/CC to people leaning over him. Don't do this step without help from a professional behaviorist. See these links: http://www.animalbeh.../caab-directory OR http://www.dacvb.org/resources/find/ OR http://www.avsabonli...d=79&Itemid=357

    2) Implement a Learn-to-Earn protocol (this is essentially the same principle as NILIF, but Dr. Yin has been a staunch advocate of this more positive protocol). Essentially, your dog has to earn everything by sitting or waiting patiently. It's incredibly easy, but it's also incredibly easy to forget. So, you may want to buy a book or pamphlet on Learn-to-Earn/NILIF and tape a few checklists around your house.

    3) Manage the environment. NEVER put your dog in a situation where he has a chance to show aggression. The minute he starts to growl or lunge, his aggression is reinforced. It does not matter if you yell "NO" or otherwise punish him. By having been repeated, the aggressive behavior is inherently reinforced. Aggression is not a behavior you can simply punish away with a "No!". It must be exterminated by providing correct alternatives, changing the underlying emotion, and preventing situations that would elicit aggression in the first place.

     

    Also, for a quick read, here's one of Yin's blog posts on food aggression and learn-to-earn. It sounds like your pup could benefit from a few of the techniques she details in the post:

    http://drsophiayin.c...nesse_not_force

     

    Good luck!

     

    Nice to see you Giselle. Your posts are greatly missed.

    Dogs Being "pack" Animals

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    Of course wolf packs are in truth units with all members related.In other words they are families. Somehow we don't like to apply that term to non humans. Generally they are parent wolves and junior offspring. So not like dog packs at all really. I think there are a variety of "pack" types from family units to a more casual group of unrelated animals of the same species. In one way or another though, dogs prefer to live in a multiunit group rather than by themselves.

     

     

    I also think that when discussing pack theories, it is a more complex subject than simply a bunch of dogs turning on another dog.

     

    The only issue with that is that, according the Donaldson article, feral dogs don't actually seem to prefer living in a multiunit group. As it states, "Their associations with one another are brief and casual: a couple of dogs may hang out together temporarily and then part company. Dogs are often drawn together by a scarce resource like a food source or estrous female but once this magnet is gone, they go their separate ways." The research seems to support that feral dogs only really stay together when there is a scarce resource to draw them together, not because they like the company of other dogs. Very counter-intuitive, which is often what happens when you start looking at real life with no pre-conceived notions.

     

    As I said 'pack" must be defined in a variety of ways. Dogs in northern Canada communites almost always when left to fend for themselves group together and roam in "packs". Again in no way do they resemble wolf "packs" and yes the group may be very flexible members joining and leaving for a variety of reasons. But in actuality rarely do they live in isolation from another being.

    Dogs Being "pack" Animals

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    Of course wolf packs are in truth units with all members related.In other words they are families. Somehow we don't like to apply that term to non humans. Generally they are parent wolves and junior offspring. So not like dog packs at all really. I think there are a variety of "pack" types from family units to a more casual group of unrelated animals of the same species. In one way or another though, dogs prefer to live in a multiunit group rather than by themselves.

     

     

    I also think that when discussing pack theories, it is a more complex subject than simply a bunch of dogs turning on another dog.

    One Hound Or Two?

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    Once you get into the new rhythm of two, it is honestly very easy. But the first week or two can often have you wondering what on earth you were thinking. That's why I am not really a proponent of fostering or sitting to determine if you like it. You need to be committed to establishing a new household and to any new dog because occasionally it can be a bit of work.

     

    Also you may find that although Tipton is excited and plays with the play group dogs, he will not seem excited or to be playful with his new housemate. That is not a bad thing at all. It it can be pretty normal for them to be more mellow at home with each other. What is great is that play together or not, they usually just seem so easy with having another greyhound in their home with them; so natural together cause for them it is.

    How Do We Help Them Get Along?

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    I also think it all sounds like a pretty normal adjustment. When my Jilly came home at 2 1/2, I could not believe her energy as opposed to Jack. I reeeeeeaaaly needed to tire her out. Running was good but honestly taking her to obedience classes did the trick. they exhausted her busy brain as well as bonded her to me. In the end it was the best thing I did, bringing her home.

    Help. My New Grey Is; Is My New Grey Threatening My Kids? (Long Post)

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    I agree with most of what's been said so far: Chase sounds like a good dog who is doing what dogs do - and this isn't confined to greyhounds. Dogs, generally, use the 'Finders keepers' rule, though it's true that some breeds are less assertive about enforcing it. That's not to say that greyhounds aren't a good fit for your family, because many other breeds are a whole lot more likely to be aggressive to people than greyhounds are. ;)

     

    I'd agree also that it's more a 'child' issue. Like you, we didn't get a dog until our younger son agreed (a little reluctantly, but he agreed) that we could, because he'd been dog phobic when very young. We made sure that both boys knew the rules and we pretty much used the 'old fashioned' policy of 'let sleeping dogs lie'. It's a good one. We didn't go quite as far as our grandparents and say 'if you get bitten it's your fault' because clearly you don't want your children injured, and yes, greyhounds are big dogs with big teeth. Actually, it's rare that they intend to cause real damage when they give a warning bite, but children are small, their faces are at dog level, and a bite is a bite. Not only do we not want that, but these days the dog often pays the ultimate price.

     

    However, children need to learn that their actions have consequences and that other sentient creatures need to be respected. Yours are very young, so a lot of the responsibility is yours as parents, but you need to make sure (while everyone, including Chase, learns the ropes) that nobody gets hurt.

     

    I'd start by making it a very clear offence, for your children to go anywhere near Chase while he's lying down. It needs to be completely unacceptable and a 100% rule. Certainly, while you're not around, it needs to be impossible for your children to approach him on his bed and this may need some rearranging - maybe you need to babygate, x-pen, etc. . When greyhounds are racing, nobody EVER touches them while they're asleep, and they get plenty of warning before they're touched. They're used to thinking of their bed as sacrosanct personal space.

     

    Trading up is a great move, but I'm not sure I'd trust such young children to handle it correctly. It would need very, very close supervision each and every time until you were absolutely sure everyone was good with it. Children get blasé about such things very quickly and are apt to start snatching and that's SO not good with dogs.

     

    Teach your children that a growl is a very important thing and must be listened to. Never try to stop a dog from growling, or you will get a dog who will not be able to warn you that he is near to breaking point and that's when you get dogs who bite 'without warning'. Chase is being a good dog - he is warning the youngsters to back off, and using excellent dog manners according to the rules for his species. You can change the way a dog sees the world but it takes time and consistency.

     

    Lastly (sorry this is a novel) if you send Chase back, you are missing the opportunity to teach your children a whole lot of very important lessons. Living with a dog has so many benefits to children and parenting: it can teach respect, sharing, patience, duty, responsibility, consequences .. too many to name. :)

     

    Pretty much all of this. I would also stress it would be a very sorry lesson your children learn in how you handle loving relationships if you were return this dog for a reason like this. However if you feel you are not wanting the responsibility of monitoring children and the dog as he learns to be a trusted family member, then by all means return him. He sounds like a great dog really.

    Alone Training

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    Seriously he is going to be fine! Try the out of the crate stuff. Leave the muzzle on for now. Too bad if he wants it off. lol.gif Leave and go to the corner store or something and honestly when you get back in about 20 mins you will know how he is doing. He more than likely will settle. If he has proved himself in that space of time then leave him many times tomorrow, exercise him, and then go to your event. Worry cause you will, and I bet he will be sound asleep. You are not in over your head. This is still early days for him and he is still learning to be a reliable household member. I know you get sick of hearing it but you need patience and a longer view point. he will be a great pet and it is your job to teach him to be. It takes time especially for the youngsters. You will both get there and yes there will missteps along the way. If you expect that to be so, you will stress less and be thrilled when they don't happen. Good luck.smile.gif

    Outdoor Kittie Introduction Tips

    in Training and Behavior discussion

    Posted

    As said before in your other thread, my first three wouldn't chase anything outside including cats. It will be hard though to do more than muzzle and leash at first for intro's. I would leave the leash on for a good while when the cats are around. If he will take food, when he sees a cat redirect and treat immediately. You will have a good idea when you have him out on a leash whether he wants to take off after a cat.

     

    Like I said Jack , Jilly and Josh would be indifferent to the cats and you would know that right away.

    Good luck!

    Tila - The Greyt Wannabe

    in Remembrance

    Posted

    Such a huge spirit in her little body. I know how much you loved her and will miss her. There are a lot of greyhounds for her to hang with at the bridge and no doubt she is busy whipping them all into shape, healthy once again.

     

    grouphug.gif to you and John, Deb

     

    Susan and the Js

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