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Canine Von Willebrand's Disease
Von Willebrand's disease (VvWD) is an inherited bleeding disorder. It is a complex and difficult disorder to deal with, because genetics, diagnostic abnormalities, pathogenic mechanisms, and sometimes conflicting clinical signs are all involved. The commonality between all vWD is a reduction in the amount or function of von Willebrand factor (vWF), which is manifested through abnormal platelet function and prolonged bleeding time. The vWF factor is a blood protein which binds platelets to blood vessels when they are injured. Absence or deficiency of the factor can, therefore, lead to uncontrolled bleeding episodes. In dogs, the most common clinical signs are spontaneous bleeding from the gums or nose, blood in the urine or gastrointestinal tract, or excessive bleeding at the time of surgery. Clinical signs also include epistaxis, prolonged estrus or postpartum bleeding, hematuria, melena, excessive bleeding after toe-nail cutting and sometimes hemorrhaging into body cavities and organs.
Diagnosis can be performed by measurement of plasma concentrations of vWF. TESTING SHOULD BE DONE AT AN EARLY AGE SINCE THE DISORDER OFTEN DIMINISHES WITH AGE, CAUSING FALSE-NEGATIVE TEST RESULTS IN OLDER ANIMALS. Additional screening tests such as bleeding times or platelet agglutination assays can also be performed. Precautions should be taken before surgery, so it is important to let your veterinarian know of bleeding problems in the past.
Different breeds exhibit different variations of the disease, and some individual animals appear to "acquire" vWD. While the bulk of the information available is based upon purebred dogs, the disease is not unknown in mixed breeds. The total number of breeds affected by vWF exceeds 50. The disease also appears in cats, pigs, horses, and humans.
Human variants of vWD are broken into three main types which can be used to describe canine vWD. Type I vWD is characterized by a low concentration of normally structured protein. In screening studies done at Cornell over a period of years (1982-1992), percentages of dogs of some breeds tested as carrying the disease, and with concentrations of vWF less than 50% of standard (considered to be at risk) were the following breeds: Corgi, Poodle (std. and min), Scottie, Golden Retriever, Doberman, Sheltie, Akita, Cairn.
Other breeds with a known prevalence of vWD in excess of 15% include Basset Hound, Dachshund (mini & std), German Wirehaired Pointer, German Shepherd, Keeshond, Manchester Terrier (std & toy), Miniature Schnauzer, and Rottweiler.
Type II vWD is characterized by a low concentration of abnormal vWF. Breeds in which severe type II has been diagnosed include American Cocker Spaniel, German Shorthaired Pointer, and German Wirehaired Pointer.
Type III vWD is essentially the complete absence of vWF. Severe type III vWD has been diagnosed in Australian Cattle Dog, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Fox Terrier, German Shepherd, Scottie, and Shetland Sheepdog.
In vWD dogs, bleeding can be spontaneous, usually from the mucosa of the mouth, nose, or gastrointestinal tract. Injury that is accompanied by bleeding may continue unabated until a transfusion is administered. Whether or not bleeding from small wounds will stop without treatment is not predictable.
Living with one of these affected animals can get quite interesting. Because this disease can be eradicated before breeding (by having your dog tested) it can be eradicated. Unfortunately, experience and hearsay indicate that the AKC is not active in the enforcement of these preventive measures. Apparently the breeders, at least some of them are not either. Testing prior to breeding is a must.
For those who wish additional information, an excellent source concerning the disease is Ettinger's Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine.
Sources: Ettinger's Textbook of VIM; Sue Tornquist, DVM, Veterinary Clinical Pathologist, Dept. of Vet. Micro Pathology, Washington State Univ; Gary Mason, Research Manager, Interleaf, Inc. Waltham, MA.
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Posted by Sandi J
...Faith got sprayed by a skunk(peeeuuuu) and I tried all the regular remedies. Finally I called the track and was told to use 3 parts(a part is whatever container you are using to measure ex: a measuring cup etc.) of Scope ( I used Wal-Mart brand) one part shampoo ( any kind) , one part white vinegar and one half part baking soda. Mix the liquids well then add baking powder and stand back because its going to foam up. I felt like Ricky Ricardo making Arroz com Poulho. My son and I slapped this mixture all over her and she took off running around the yard like crazy. We let it stay on until it dried and the baking soda turned white then washed her down. The next day sniff sniff... aahh perfect...
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You can find the article formatted and in it's entirety here The Importance of being Alpha
One of the most misunderstood concepts in responsible dog ownership is establishing dominance. As a fundamental part of the pack structure, it is one of the most important elements in having a healthy relationship with a dog and effects everyone in the household. It's the importance of being alpha, leader of the pack, ruler in the household. Leadership is not established by a democratic process or a popularity contest. And it's critically important to the well-being of the dog.
In her book, Playtraining Your Dog, Patricia Gail Burnham has the following description for being alpha:
Being a pack leader means more than dominating the other pack members. Pack Leadership is a civil service job. The leader exists not for his own sense of power, but for the benefit of the pack. He sees that the pack survives, that it stays safe and fed and sheltered from the weather. He provides protection and makes the decisions that are responsible for the health, diet, comfort, safety and activities of the pack. When a person assumes pack leadership these are the responsibilities that go with the position.
Much of the media surrounding greyhound adoption focusing on the more negative aspects of the breeding, training and handling of the dogs leads many adopters to conclude that normal transitional behavior is symptomatic of the environment from which the dogs come. In the attempt to make the new dog comfortable in its new home, they very often over compensate and fail to demonstrate clear signals that they are the leader in the house. In trying to show care and compassion, they end up doing a real disservice to their new pet and contributing to the stress of the change. More troublesome, however, is the effect of uncertainty over the family alpha on the longer term behavior of the new dog.
Greyhounds are very aware of pack order whether it is within the family or among other dogs. All breeds of dogs are this way to some extent; it is, however, it is a very strong behavior with greyhounds. A greyhound that is allowed to become the dominant member of the family is a greyhound headed for trouble; the kind of behavior trouble that frequently leads to being returned to the adoption program or surrendered to an animal shelter. On the other hand, a shy or spooky greyhound who does not have the security of knowing who is the leader in the household may become even more confused, apprehensive, withdrawn and timid.
Many of the problems new adopters have with their dogs could really be just plain alpha problems. If the dog sees himself as alpha, then he has the right (in his mind) to intimidate or ignore YOU. In its most extreme form, a dog may growl or snap. It is important to realize what is going on, and to begin to take the alpha position right away. The dog cannot be allowed to get away with this behavior - it is a dangerous situation for all involved. In the case of a shy, insecure dog, a strong reliable leader is probably the most important element in helping the dog gain self-confidence and emerge from fearful behavior.
An owner may observe a dominant dog jockeying for position first hand. It can be quite subtle. There may not be any growling/snapping during a dominance challenge. The contest is usually a more indirect displays of dominance, like taking other dogs' toys, walking around as they please (i.e. stepping on who they choose), taking other dogs' beds, getting a dog to stop growling at them with a mere look or head snap.
There are some simple, benign ways to establish leadership with a dog. They are not difficult or confrontive and can be used in any combination that fits the owner's lifestyle, schedule and needs. The key to success is patience and consistency. Owners also need to know that dogs will continually test the pack order, and will move up the ladder if someone lets him.
Job Michael Evans in People Pooches and Problems describes a number of methods to effectively establish dominance over your dog. Some examples are as simple as:
Never let your dog in or out of any door before you.
Never let your dog do something important (i.e., eating, or getting into or out of a car) without you giving that dog permission.
Give treats only for training purposes or exceptionally good behavior such as a dog following your commands - no free treats.
Try not to lose control and yell at your dog in anger. Use body language and low-growly voices to let your dog know that you don't appreciate his behavior - standing real tall is also good to do.
Don't let your dog sleep in your bed - you are confusing it as to pack order and asking for trouble.
Terry Ryan teaches canine behavior at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University and has written in various forums on the subject of developing an appropriate relationship with dogs. In her recent article in the AKC Gazette, she suggests similar routines including:
Get your dog's attention and encourage eye contact several times a day.
Use feeding time to demonstrate dependability and leadership by feeding on a regular schedule.
Control the territory by insisting that your dog moves out of the way instead of stepping over him.
Practice dominance interaction with your dog regularly including gentle handling, belly rubs, and muzzle control.
Integrating some of these small changes in the way an adopter handles their new dog can help make for a successful transition and long-term relationship.
We want to thank Lynda Adame for providing the reference material on alpha behavior. Lynda lives in San Pedro, California with her adopted greyhound, Tice, and volunteers with Retired Racers, Inc. in Acton.
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taken out of context
Sorry! I worked all weekend so am just getting around to checking the board. How long have you had Harry? It took a good 6-8 months for Demps to get to where I wasn't afraid to come home.
First, pick up that treat immediately when you get home, whether or not he has eaten it. Instead of it being something that calms Harry down, it is being linked with you coming home. Not good. It's probably a good idea to keep using it and hopefully he will eventually calm down enough to benefit from it.
Have you spoken to your vet? I am not big on medication, but Clomicalm was something I went for after 1 month. It didn't change Dempsey's personality and he never seemed "drugged". It was about $35/month- definitely worth it even if you have to eat ramen noodles the whole time. Seriously!
The Clomicalm just helps with that anxiety enough so that the behavior modification you are implementing will even be noticed. Harry is probably so worked up that he doesn't even notice what you are doing- other than leaving.
Can you get a new crate so he cannot escape? I know they are expensive, but it sounds like the crate is probably the best, safest place for him at the moment. Maybe your group has one you can borrow or check the classified ads, that is where I found mine.
Consistency is important in the sense of doing the same thing when you leave and get home. But, it's good to be inconsistent about the times you are leaving. I think it would be good if you could leave Harry home a bit each day. It is probably more harmful if he is rarely left alone because you aren't able to work on the problem.
Ignore him for about 15 minutes before you are going to leave. Put him in his crate, show no hesitancy or doubt on your part, give him his treat, and leave. Just go get the mail or take a walk around the block. Come back in, make him be quiet before you let him out of the crate, then ignore him for another 15 minutes. It is hard because they will do everything they can to get their attention, but do ignore him. Eventually, you probably won't have to ignore him, but that will be quite awhile. Increase the amount of time that you are gone.
Has Harry been through obedience class? I so strongly recommend this for dogs with SA. It helped improve D's confidence so much. We were at a M&G and one of his trainers came in and could not believe it was the same dog. It is also good for the dog to know commands like sit and down for when you come home and he is really excited.
Increase exercise. This helped us so much. I made those walks so much longer. If Harry is tired, he is much more likely to sleep.
Those are the big ones that really helped in our situation. Here's the list that I put together. Make sure you really examine your environment to see what could affect the anxiety- for Demps, one of the things turned out to be the answering machine.
Separation Anxiety
Tip #1
Invest in a Kong or two (at pet stores), it will become your best friend. Fill the Kong with goodies- dog cookies, etc and seal with peanut butter, cream cheese, or plain yogurt. I found that Dempsey had fewer pooping accidents if we did not use kibble in the Kong. Give your dog the Kong every time you leave him/her alone and pick it up again as soon as you get home. You can even freeze the Kong so that it lasts longer. Your dog will learn to associate your departure with getting a yummy treat. It took some time, but Dempsey now gets excited when he is left alone- because he knows he's getting a treat!
Tip #2
If you crate your dog, do not crate only when you leave him/her alone. Crate your dog while you are in the room watching television, cleaning, or doing whatever. You may want to even consider feeding your dog in the crate. Give treats in the crate. If you only crate when leaving your dog home alone, she/he will learn to associate the crate with being home alone- not what you want! Make the crate a positive place to be.
Tip #3
Do not, do not, do not make a big deal out of coming and going. If you spend a lot of time loving on your dog before leaving or when you first arrive home, s/he will get excited and think it's a big deal. You want your dog to learn that you leaving or getting home is nothing to be excited about. Before you leave, ignore your dog for about 15 minutes. Do not give attention, pet, etc right before you leave. Also, when you get home, ignore your dog for about 10 - 15 minutes. I know this can seem really mean, but it is best for your dog in the long run. In addition, it is probably a good idea to act neutral as well when your dog is going along with you so s/he continue to think departures are no big deal.
Tip #4
Obedience class can help build confidence a lot. We took an 8 week class over the summer and the instructors were pretty surprised by how Dempsey really came out of his shell and quit cowering behind me. And hey, it can't hurt to have a dog who knows how to sit and stay! Make sure you practice at home as well. Practicing commands can be a nice way of bonding with your dog, increasing confidence, and tiring him/her out before you leave!
Tip #5
Does your dog try to be in constant proximity of you? It may seem cute and sweet but do not encourage it. Dempsey used to have to have some part of his body always touching mine. Made it pretty difficult to even go to the bathroom! Gradually work on putting some physical distance between you and your dog- scoot away on the couch or sit in a different chair. If your dog constantly has to be touching you, how will you make it to work? Dempsey used to follow me up and down the stairs constantly- he couldn't be alone in a room for even a few seconds! (This may not be unusual when your dog first arrives, but when it continues, it can be a problem). Work on this as well- go to the bathroom alone and shut the door all the way, go upstairs, etc. Work on being out of sight of your dog, increasing the amount of time you are in different rooms from each other.
Tip #6
Where does your dog sleep? If she/he sleeps in your bed, you might want to consider a doggie bed. Put your dog's bed next to yours or in the same room and encourage the dog to sleep there. (I know this is hard, especially during winter since greyhounds sure are warm!)
Tip #7
Does your dog have problems with defecating or urinating in the house or crate? This was the part of Dempsey's separation anxiety that stuck around the longest. Nothing seemed to work. I moved his bed to the area (right in front of the door) where he kept pooping. He would just go on top of his bed and finally ruined the bed. What helped the most was to feed him in this spot and keep his dishes there. It's a pain since it's right near the door, but it was SO worth it! Make sure you clean the area as best as you can so there is no remaining smell to encourage future peeing or pooping. Take the dog out of the room while you clean (and light some candles for your own benefit!). Also, make sure you have learned your dog's schedule and when he/she needs to actually go (usually about 20 minutes or so after eating, if you feed commercial kibble) and give him/her opportunity to go.
Tip #8
The window blinds or curtains can be important to consider. I used to always leave the blinds open, thinking it would reassure Dempsey to see outside. Although this does work for some dogs, it was not for Dempsey. As soon as I started leaving the blinds closed, he did better. Now, if he wants to see outside, he peaks around the edge of the blinds. I live in an apartment building and the windows face the parking lot. With people constantly coming and going, I think it was just too much excitement for him!
Tip #9
Do not be afraid to ask your vet about medication. Dempsey was on Clomicalm for about 5 months. One month's supply is about $35. After about 4 months, I cut the dose in half and after another month, he was completely off of it. He showed no side effects whatsoever from the Clomicalm. If you do decide to use this medication, expect up to a month or two to see effects. If Clomicalm doesn't work, there are other medications available. Rescue Remedy is another thing to consider and is safe as well (available at GNC). Our holistic vet gave us a combination of Bach remedies and this seemed to help as well. If you are not satisfied by the response from your vet, go on to another one!
Tip #10
Try leaving a piece of clothing that you have recently worn with your dog. Your scent may help to keep him/her calm. Favorite stuffed animals may also help calm your dog. Even an old shoe might help. Dempsey loves to carry shoes around and sleeps with his nose in them (gross, I know, but he doesn't chew!).
Tip #11
Exercise!! Increase your dog's amount of exercise- a tired dog is a sleeping dog! And exercise is good for you, too! I know that in the morning, it can be difficult to increase exercise and still allow the recommended 2 hours before/after feeding. Do the best you can. (Here is where obedience classes help, you can just practice commands as extra exercise!).
Tip #12
Are there cues that signal your departures? Mess with these. Carry your keys around and jingle them, carry your purse around, put your shoes on, put some make-up on (but don't leave!). I sometimes shower at night and sometimes in the morning- just to confuse Dempsey. I put my make-up on at work and don't blow dry my hair very often. Dog's pick up on these cues and try to predict when you'll be leaving. Dempsey used to sit on the couch with pure panic on his face when I got out of the shower in the mornings (and it wasn't from the towel on my head!)
Tip #13
Try leaving the TV or radio on when you leave your dog behind. The noise can help keep outside noises at a minimum and also be comforting to your dog. I quickly learned that Dempsey didn't like being alone in the dark (weird dog) so I leave a light or TV on when I go somewhere at night.
Tip #14
I make sure that the volume on my answering machine is off when I leave. When I am home and it goes off, Dempsey gets excited. It is probably confusing to dogs to hear their owner's voice, but not be able to find him/her!
Tip #15
Does your dog like toys? Leave several out each day, but vary them day to day so he/she gets different ones each day.
Tip #16
Do you need other people to talk to about this? There is now a mailing list at www.egroups.com called k9sepanx for humans who have dogs with separation anxiety. A great place to get new ideas from or just vent!
Tip #17
Keep a journal. Since Dempsey's main problem after his anxiety had decreased some, was pooping every time he was left alone, I had to vary his diet and when he ate. Keeping track of everything he ate, when, how much, etc and writing down messes/getting into things, etc really helped me pay attention to what I was doing.
Tip #18
Do you have access to a videocamera? Stick it out of reach of your dog and have it record while you are gone. Usually, if the dog is going to do something, it is within the first 30 minutes or so of departure. Actually being able to see what your dog is doing might give you some insight into what to try.
GOOD LUCK!!!
Heather Wester
PS- I forgot, the journaling was a HUGE help in figuring out what was going on with Dempsey. And lots of wine!
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Bee stings are acid. Remove the sting and bathe the area in bicarbonate of soda. (Baking Soda and Water)
Wasp stings are alkali, and the sting is not left in the skin. Bathe the area in vinegar as the sting is alkaline.
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Just found this site. Had all sorts of link to Grety info. Here is just the tip of the needle.
Aggression
Barking
Children & Dogs
Coprophagia (stool eating)
Deafness/Blindness
Destructive Chewing & Digging
Dominance/Leadership
Jumping
More Than One Pet
Loud Noises/Thunder
Nail Trimming
Pulling on Lead
Separation Anxiety
Shyness
Submissive Urination
Others
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HOUSE TRAINING - THE #1 PRIORITY!
Housetraining - The #1 priority when a new puppy or dog arrives at home. Unless the new pet learns acceptable potty manners, he will, in many cases, either become an outside dog or a short term resident. Therefore, housetraining becomes your first training challenge. Handled properly, this can be a pleasant experience for both you and the dog.
While your new puppy or dog may have been housetrained before coming to the humane shelter, he may have been residing in our kennel atmosphere for several days or weeks. Yes, this is long enough for housetraining to break down. Also, a dog’s housetraining learned on location (his previous home) may not automatically transfer to your home. By placing your new dog immediately on a routine housetraining program, you should be able to re-establish his clean habits in a very short time. If your new dog was a stray before reaching the shelter, in all probability he comes with built in housetraining needs.
Before embarking on a housetraining program, be sure the puppy or dog is healthy and has been checked by his vet (a low urinary tract infection could could be the real culprit making it difficult for him hold his urine).
The method of housetraining we recommend, for both puppies or adult dogs, utilize a confinement area for the dog which will restrict access to the area to be respected (the inside of the house) by means of a dog crate, baby playpen, or by securing the dog on a leash no longer than the length of his body.
This housetraning program requires a 10 day commitment to teach the dog:
1. where the “bathroom” is located
2. the route to the “bathroom”
3. to hold their elimination for longer periods of time
Input (food & water) produces output. Therefore, the dog’s food intake must be scheduled, water also if necessary. Random, free feeding (food left down all the time) is not recommended during housetraining. Put the food down for 15-20 minutes, remove and re-serve at next meal time.
Good timing is essential. Watch your puppy or dog. Learn how he behaves when the urge hits him. Puppies usually urinate within 1/2 minute on waking up. Sew a bell on his collar so you can hear him when he begins to move around-then you get moving! Be sure he can’t eat the bell. Put his crate near your bed for overnight. Yes, when you hear the bell go off at 2am, it’s time to hit the deck running.
Day 1-3: +100% confinement for the dog
-absolutely no freedom/activity in side the house
-eat/sleep/play in confinement
-out of confinement only when outside
take the dog out on a leash (carry if possible) every hour
-stand in one quickly accessible, convenient spot; do not walk around
- this is a trip to the bathroom, not a walk
+if the dog eliminates outside, can play or walk then return to confinement
+if the dog does not eliminate, return to confinement;take out in 15-30 min.
+when the dog is eliminating reliably while outside-
-extend the times between trips outside in 15 minute increments
-all other procedures remain the same
Day 4-10: the dog is allowed limited freedom inside thr house
-BUT MUST BE WATCHED 100% OF THE TIME! If dog has accident inside the
house, the entire 10 days must be repeated.
+when the dog cannot be watched 100%, return dog to confinement area
-if the telephone rings, return dog to confinement area
-if you are cooking, return dog to confinement area
-if the baby needs your attention, return dog to confinement area
-if your favorite TV program is on, return dog to confinement area
-if you want to take a nap, return dog to confinement area
+100% ADULT supervision/observation is required
-do not try delegating/assigning this important responsibility to the children
Yes, 100% for both the first 3 days of confinement and second 7 days of observation, means just that-100%. There is no punishment for the dog. If a mistake is made in the house, the mistake was ours-not the dog’s. The inside of the house must stay clean, with no accidents, for a full 10 days or the program must be repeated. Yes, 10 days-only 10 days of the rest of his life.
Confinement in a room (bathroom, utility room, garage) separated from family activity, usually works out unsatisfactorily as the dog’s isolation may start undesirable behavories such as barking, scratching, chewing etc. Since a dog crate or kennel is mobile, the dog can be kept close to family activity and will minimize start of other problems.
Important, the dog crate or kennel is a training tool; it must NOT be used as punishment. It is his house inside your house, his bed, his safe space. For the dog’s safety, remove any training collars; the dog should wear only a flat, buckle collar inside the crate.
A healthy, awake, active puppy can only be expected to “hold” his urine for 1 hour (some less) for every month of age-maybe shorter if active, maybe longer if quite or sleeping. The length of time between trips outside should extend only to the extent of the puppy’s or dog’s age and ability to maintain a clean confinement area (an 8 week old puppy cannot be expected to keep its confinement area clean foe 8 hours).
If clean-up is necessary, do so while the dog is not present. Use a solution of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water to neutralize the urine scent (careful on hard wood floors).
Following successful completion of the 10 day housetraining program, while the dog may require being watched closely, he should be fairly reliable. Should housetraining falter as a result of either physical or emotional stress for the dog, he should be immediately put back on the strict 3 day confinement program.
Connie Ellis
Pet Animal Behavior Specialist
Rev. May 7, 1994 -copyrighted
Permission has been received from Connie Ellis, Puppy & Dog Training/Nordic Pet Connection, Inc., For reproduction
of and distribution by the Humane Society of Vero Beach and Indian River County, FL, Inc.
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Special thanks to the Author: Patricia Gail Burnham and Dog World Magazine for permission to post this very informative article. This article was published in the March 2000 issue of Dog World http://www.dogworldmag.com
Making Sense of A Blood Chemistry Panel
Patricia Gail Burnham
One of the most useful veterinary tests is a laboratory analysis of a dog=s blood. Veterinarians will generally tell owners the results of tests in general terms, AThe liver values are elevated or the kidney values are high.@ Over the last five years I have become very familiar with blood test values as we have been using them to indicate when we should use ultrasound to look for tumors on my elderly dogs. This family of dogs has shown a tendency to develop liver tumors, which are first identified by a rise in the bilirubin and alkaline phosphatase values on their blood panels. When those values go up it is time to ultrasound the abdomen in search of tumors.
I always ask for my own copy of the blood tests which enables me to create a file of blood tests for each dog. If you look at blood tests taken over time you can see which values are increasing.
It also made me curious as the meanings of the various readings so I did a little research and learned that the blood tests performed for dogs can be divided into two kinds: chemistry profiles and a CBC (Complete Blood Count). The chemistry profile measures certain chemicals in the blood while the CBC counts the various types of red and white blood cells.
Blood is 90% water. Other than that it is made up of living blood cells floating in blood plasma. The plasma is made up of the water with three kinds of components dissolved in it. These three components are 1. Proteins; 2. Salts and ions; and 3. All the metabolites, vitamins, hormones, and wastes that are transported to and from the cells of the body. The Chemistry profile tests for blood components in these three categories and their normal levels are listed here.
1. Proteins:
Total Protein equals the sum of the albumin and the globulin in the blood. These two are manufactured in the liver from amino acids in the diet and from the breakdown of body proteins.
! Normal Adult Range 5.0-7.4 G/L
Albumin is a protein manufactured by the liver and is an indicator of the adequacy of protein in the diet. It controls nutrient transport of bilirubin, fatty acids, hormones, vitamins, and minerals, and it also controls fluid retention and waste removal. Its value is raised by shock, dehydration and liver disease. It is lowered by inadequate protein in the diet, low blood viscosity, kidney disease, diarrhea, loss of blood, or hemorrhage, fever, infection, malignancy, liver disease, pregnancy and lactation.
! Normal Adult Range 2.4-4.4 G/DL
Globulin is a second protein manufactured by the liver. It is a larger protein than albumin and carries some hormones, fats, and metals. Gamma Globulin=s antibodies form part of the immune system. Globulin levels are elevated in chronic infections, chronic liver disease, and myeloma. It is low in malnutrition, impaired protein digestion, liver disease, kidney disease, or anemia.
! Normal Adult Range 1.6-3.6 G/DL
A/G Ratio: This is the ration of albumin to globulin. When the ratio is out of balance the globulin is usually high.
! Normal Adult Range 0.8-2.0
2. The Salts and Ions include:
Phosphorus is a chemical element and is needed for calcium and carbohydrate metabolism, calcium transport and buffering the pH of blood and maintaining osmotic pressure. High levels indicate kidney disease, rapid bone growth, diabetes, excess vitamin D, and liver disease. Low levels are indicators of vitamin D deficiency, liver disease, and malabsorption, pregnancy and lactation.
! Normal Adult Range 2.5-6.0 MG/DL
Calcium is essential for teeth and bones. It is needed for blood coagulation, for the action of many enzymes, regulation of nerves and muscles and to regulate cell wall permeability. The teeth and bones act as a calcium reservoir. Calcium moves in and out of teeth and bones as needed to maintain the proper blood calcium level. If the blood level is low, the parathyroid bland hormone pulls calcium out of the bones to add to the blood. What the body is trying to maintain is a ratio between phosphorus and calcium in the blood. . Elevated Calcium is found in hyperthyroidism, some bone tumors, excess vitamin D or calcium intake. Low calcium is due to malnutrition, old age, kidney dysfunction, hormone imbalance, vitamin D deficiency, and stress.
! Normal Adult Range 8.9-11.4 MG/DL
Calcium/PO4 Ratio: It is the Calcium/Phosphorus ratio that your parathyroid gland is trying to regulate. A high protein diet will raise the phosphorus level, which stimulates the parathyroid to secrete the hormone which pulls the calcium from the bones and teeth to maintain the optimal calcium/phosphorus ratio.
! Normal Adult Range 1.6-5.1
Electrolytes are chemical compounds that can divide into electrically charged ions in the blood stream. Chief among these are positively charged sodium and potassium ions and the negatively charged chloride ions. A dog gets both sodium and chloride ions from sodium chloride, which is the chemical name for ordinary salt. (When my sister=s routine blood work came back normal except for low sodium and chloride, it indicated that she needed to eat more salt.) The electrolytes are the chemicals that tie us to the oceans that life was born in. The salt levels in our blood are the same as those in the sea. Bicarbonate levels or total carbon dioxide levels are usually included in an electrolyte panel because, while carbon dioxide is a metabolism waste produce, it also acts as a buffering agent. My vets routine blood panel for a dog doesn=t test carbon dioxide but I will offer a brief explanation at the end of the electrolyte section in case your laboratory does test for it.
Sodium is an electrolyte that maintains blood pressure, the acid-base balance of blood, production of digestive fluids, and nerve function. It controls viscosity and ion balance of blood, muscle function and is necessary for growth. . High salt level can be caused by a high-salt diet, anemia, kidney disease, and liver disease. When the sodium level of the blood is high the blood tends to be alkaline. High sodium levels raise the blood pressure.
! Normal Adult Range 139-154 MEQ/L
Potassium maintains a cellular fluid balance, and it alkalinizes the blood. It is needed for electrical conduction in nerves and muscles, including the heart. An irregular heartbeat is associated with abnormal levels of potassium. The potassium level is regulated by adrenal hormones, glucose, and sodium. It is elevated when tissue decomposes. It regulates the enzymes that control carbohydrate metabolism. Its level is regulated by the kidneys and the adrenal glands. High potassium levels indicate kidney disease, diabetes, burns, shock, heart attack, slow heart beat and respiratory diseases. Low potassium levels indicate dehydration, kidney diseaqe, malnutrition, excess
insulin, stress and a high protein diet.
! Normal Adult Range 3.6-5.5 MEQ/L
NA/K Ratio: The ratio of sodium to potassium in the blood.
! Normal Adult Range 27-38
Chloride: Chloride ions are negatively charged and acidify the blood. It balances with the Sodium and Potassium positive ions to maintain the balance between acid and alkaline levels in the blood. High chloride levels make the blood acidic. (Think of hydrochloric acid.) Chloride is elevated with acidosis, renal failure, dehydration, hyperventilation. Low chloride levels and be caused by inadequate dietary salt, vomiting, fluid retention, diarrhea, kidney disease and starvation.
! Normal Adult Range 102-120 MEQ/L
Carbon Dioxide (CO2 ): Carbon Dioxide is the by product of metabolizing carbon, combining it with oxygen, and releasing energy to your cells. This is the basic reaction that fuels all animal life. The carbon dioxide is carried by the blood from the cells where it is produced to the lungs where it is exhaled and exchanged for oxygen. While it is in the blood it acts as buffer system to control the pH of the blood.. Carbon dioxide is acidic (As in carbonic acid) and it has to be balanced by the positive ions of calcium and sodium. The body works best when the blood is slightly alkaline so an excess of carbon dioxide in your blood with make you feel really tired. High carbon dioxide can be caused by severe vomiting, breathing too shallowly to exhale the carbon dioxide, cortisone a part of the bicarbonate and diuretic therapy. Low carbon dioxide levels are caused by starvation, uremia, and breathing so fast that too much carbon dioxide is exhaled, diarrhea, central nervous system disease and poor liver function.
! Normal Adult Range 22-29 mEq/L
3. The Enzymes, Hormones, Metabolites and Waste Products in the Blood:
Amylase . Amylases are enzymes that aid digestion by breaking up starches and other carbohydrates into sugars. Amylase is produced by the salivary glands.
! Normal Adult Range 290-1125 IU/L
Lipase. Lipases are enzymes that break up the large molecules of fats and lipids into small segments. Lipase is produced by the pancreas. (Once, after I had eaten an incredibly high fat breakfast, the blood bank called me for a plasma donation. The technician overseeing the donation complained repeatedly about how lipimic my plasma was. There was a layer of fat floating on the surface of the plasma. Lipid means fat. Fats are carried in the blood on lipoproteins. We are all familiar with the terms high density (good ones) and low density lipoproteins (HDL and LDL.). However elevated levels of Amylase or Lipase are fairly non-specific and can indicate a variety of diseases.
! Normal Adult Range 77-695 IU/L
Glucose (also called dextrose) is blood sugar. It provides the main source of energy to the body cells. (Caffeine gives you energy by stimulating the liver to dump more glucose into your blood.) The sugar levels in the blood are regulated by both sugar inhibitors and stimulators. Insulin and glucagon are produced by the pancreas. Thyroid hormone, liver enzymes and adrenal hormones also control your dog=s glucose levels. Insulin lowers and glucagon raises the sugar level. The liver converts glycogen, proteins, and fats into glucose. Glucose will be high in diabetes, liver disease, obesity, hyperthyroidism, food sensitivities, stress, pancreatitis, or a recent meal high in sugar and starches.
Low glucose levels indicate excess insulin, liver disease, malabsorption, or hypothyroidism.
! Normal Adult Range 70-138 MG/DL
AST (SGOT): SGOT stands for Serum Glutamic Oxaloacetic Transaminase which is an enzyme found in cells of the heart, liver, kidney, pancreas, and muscles. If any of these tissues are damaged this enzyme blood level rises. It is a particularly good indicator of liver or heart damage. In humans it is used as an indicator of heart attack as it may rise by a factor of twenty times normal in the first day after a heart attack. Pregnancy and vitamin-B deficiency will lower the SGOT
.! Normal Adult Range 15-66 IU/L
ALT (SGPT): SGPT stands for Serum Glutamic Pyruvic Transaminase. This is an enzyme that is found mainly in liver cells. It rises with liver damage, kidney infection, chemical pollutants, or heart up with liver disease or gall stones and goes down with stress, fatigue, or adrenal gland exhaustion.
! Normal Adult Range 12-118 IU/L
CPK stands for Creatin Phosphokinase. It is an excellent monitor for heart attacks.
! Normal Adult Range 102-120 MEQ/L
GGT stands for Gamma Glutamyl Transpeptidase. This is yet another enzyme found in the liver. It is elevated in liver disease, bile-duct obstruction, and pancreatitis. It is lowered in hypothyroidism, hypothalamic problems, or magnesium deficiency.
! Normal Adult Range 1-12 IU/L
Alkaline Phosphatase: This is the enzyme that was the best marker for liver tumors in my dogs. It is produced in the cells of the bone or liver. The level rises during liver degeneration or cell damage, growth or repair. With an old dog we are concerned about rising levels caused by cell damage. When the liver enzymes are normal but the Alkaline Phosphatase is high, then it indicates minerals are being moved into or out of the bones and a bone disease is a possibility. Pregnancy, growth and bone injuries will raise the Alkaline Phosphatase. It is highest among young, growing dogs. Alkaline Phosphatase is lowered by malnutrition, protein deficiency, magnesium, B12 or vitamin C deficiency, anemia, or hypothyroidism
! Normal Adult Range 5-131 IU/L
Cholesterol: The liver produces most of the cholesterol in the blood. (This is bad news for people who are trying to control their cholesterol by using a low fat diet.) Additional cholesterol is absorbed from food. High cholesterol levels are associated with various kinds of heart disease and are a risk factor for heart disease in humans. Cholesterol isn=t always bad. It is needed for the body to produce natural steroid hormones. Cholesterol is high in diabetes, liver disease, heart disease, kidney disease, hypothyroidism, and pregnancy. It is lower in malnutrition, hyperthyroidism, liver insufficiency, malignancy, anemia, and infection.
! Normal Adult Range 92-324 MG/DL
BUN means Blood Urea Nitrogen which is one of the end products of protein metabolism in the body. Protein foods are first broken down into amino acids. When the amino acids are metabolized, the remaining nitrogen becomes a part of urea, which is formed in the liver and excreted by the kidneys. A high protein intake with raise the BUN slightly. It will also be elevated by kidney damage, dehydration, intestinal bleeding, some drugs and heart failure. The BUN is lowered by a low protein diet, malnutrition, poor protein absorption, liver damage, pancreas or adrenal inactivity and pregnancy. The most frequently seen change in BUN is the elevation that is caused by kidney disease. The kidneys are endowed with a lot of extra capacity and an animal has to have already lost 75% of its kidney function before the BUN will rise on a blood test. This means that a good BUN level does not mean that a dog has good kidney function. It just means that he is not down to his last 25% of kidney function yet. And conversely, an elevated BUN means that the dog may have already lost three quarters of his kidney function.
! Normal Adult Range 6-25 MG/DL
Creatinine is a waste produce of muscle metabolism. When protein digestion is impaired, the body breaks down muscle tissue to supply amino acids. (This is the reason that super low protein diets destroy muscle mass.) The Creatinine is excreted by the kidneys so the Creatinine level goes up in kidney disease or muscle degeneration. It is lowered by some forms of kidney damage, impaired protein digestion, liver disease, protein starvation or pregnancy.
! Normal Adult Range 0.5-1.6 MG/DL
BUN/Creatinine Ratio: When the ratio is very high, then too much BUN is being formed. If the ratio is very low then the Creatinine is not being excreted by the kidneys. It is a measure of kidney function and protein metabolism and intake.
attack. It is lowered by poor oxygen transport to the tissues.
! Normal Adult Range 4-27
Total Bilirubin: Bilirubin is an indicator of liver function. When red cells die, their hemoglobin becomes bilirubin and is transported to the liver where it is converted to bile and is passed down the bile ducts to the intestines. Bilirubin is what gives feces their brown color. It also produces the yellow color in the skin and whites of the eyes when jaundice is present, caused by poor liver function. Total bilirubin goes up in liver disease, bile-duct obstruction and hemolytic anemia. It is low if the spleen or liver are functioning at a low level. A diet low in nitrogen can lower the bilirubin level.
! Normal Adult Range 0.1-0.3 MG/DL
There can be a variation in the normal ranges from laboratory to laboratory. The values given here are 1999 values from my vet=s lab. Your lab=s normal range will be printed next to the dog=s test value on the report. So check the values for your own laboratory. If their test protocols differ, so may their normal ranges. However they are not likely to differ by much. It is interesting that the normal ranges for human beings are very close to the normal ranges for dogs. Even changing the species doesn=t change the normal values for blood by much.
I wouldn't try to memorize any of the above data but instead would keep a copy of the article in a file with copies of my dog's blood work. That way the reader can refer to the specific item that is abnormal and determine its significance.
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De-ticking: How do I Safely Remove a Tick?
By Holly Frisby, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Veterinary Services Department
To remove an attached tick, use a pair of fine-tipped tweezers or special tick removal instruments. These special devices allow one to remove the tick without squeezing the tick body. This is important, as you do not want to crush the tick and force harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter the dog’s bloodstream.
1. Grab the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. Do not grasp the tick by the body.
2. Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. Do not twist the tick as you are pulling.
3. Using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match or alcohol will NOT cause the tick to "back out". In fact these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound.
4. After removing the tick, place it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks are NOT killed by flushing them down the toilet.
5. Clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a triple antibiotic ointment.
6. Wash your hands thoroughly.
Please do not use your fingers to remove or dispose of the tick. We don't want you in contact with a potentially disease-carrying tick. Do NOT squash the tick with your fingers. The contents of the tick can transmit disease.
Once an embedded tick is manually removed, it is not uncommon for a welt and skin reaction to occur. A little hydrocortisone spray will help alleviate the irritation, but it may take a week or more for healing to take place. In some cases the tick bite may permanently scar leaving a hairless area. This skin irritation is due to the irritating and destructive tick saliva. It is not due to the tick losing its head, literally. Do not be worried about the tick head staying in; it rarely happens. The swelling is due to toxic saliva, not toxic heads.
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GUIDE FOR CHARACTERIZING POISONS
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X - Emergency!
Highly Dangerous
Dangerous
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PLANTS
It is difficult to give concise information about plant toxicities as there are hundreds of plants that are potentially poisonous to animals(1). However, actual reports of animals getting seriously ill from eating plants are relatively infrequent compared to reports of poisonings from household products or drugs. The plants discussed below can be found in Minnesota and represent among the most dangerous of poisonous plants. You may notice the conspicuous lack of "holiday plants" among the list. While many people seem to think poinsettias, ivy and mistletoe are dangerous plants, and while these plants have toxic potential, they seldom cause serious clinical signs if eaten.
It is worth noting here that dogs and cats often vomit after chewing on plants; this probably does not represent "poisoning" or any dangerous exposure. Only severe or persistent vomiting is a danger sign in small animals. Sporadic vomiting without accompanying signs of illness (for instance, diarrhea, depression, loss of appetite) is rarely a cause for worry, whether associated with plant ingestion or not. The best advice, however, is to contact your veterinarian if you have specific concerns.
JAPANESE YEW - XXX
Scientific Name — Taxus cuspidus
Common names — Yew, Spreading English Yew, Canada Yew
Plant with similar toxicity: Zygadenus nuttzii, common name Deathcamas.
The Yew plant is an ornamental yard plant, most often used in landscaping around the foundation of a house. It is an extremely poisonous plant and the animal needs to eat only one-tenth of one percent of its body weight to get a toxic dose. (For example, a 50 pound dog would need only 0.05 pounds or less than 2 ounces of the plant to get a potentially fatal dose!)
The toxin in the Yew is an alkaloid and works by depressing electrical activity in the heart. Signs may include sudden death from heart failure. If the animal shows clinical signs of toxicosis other than sudden death those could include: trembling, incoordination, diarrhea, and collapse.
We rarely recognize clinical cases of JapaneseYew poisoning in animals at the University, although that may be partly because of the difficulty in proving the presence of the toxin as well as the great toxicity. In cases where animals are found dead it is very difficult to prove the Yew caused the death unless the animal is necropsied (a veterinary term for an autopsy) and evidence of ingestion - evidence that the animal actually ate the plant — is found. There are no specific blood or chemical tests to determine if Yew toxicity is present. While Yew poisoning does not seem to be very common, the best advice is to know what ornamental plants are present around your house and other buildings and to make sure the Yew is not one of them!
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ARACEAE FAMILY - X
Scientific name — Many, including: Schefflera actinophylla, Dieffenbachia maculata, Begonia tuberhybrida, Philodendron
Common names — Starleaf, Tuftroot, tuberous begonia, wax begonia, water plant, yellow calla, peace lily, etc.
This family of house plants and ornamentals contains oxalates and causes toxicity by the formation of calcium oxalate crystals in the animals organs and by causing the release of chemicals in the body which can cause an acute allergic reaction. Signs may include excessive salivation, head shaking, pawing at the mouth, difficult breathing, vomiting, and diarrhea.
Fortunately, the plant causes pain and irritation on chewing and therefore animals rarely eat it in sufficient quantities to cause severe damage. Much of the motivation for chewing on such a plant involves boredom and other psychological factors (recent changes in the household, etc.) so it may be worth noting if an animal begins suddenly eating house plants they used to ignore and discussing the subject in a phone call or visit to your veterinarian. If your household plants include any of those in the Araceae family, be aware of the potential for toxicity and preferably keep the plants away from the pet or switch to safer house plants.
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RHODODENDRONS (and other cardiac glycoside containing plants) - X
Scientific name — Many, including: Rhododendron, Nerium oleander, Digitalis purpura.
Common names — Rhododendrons, milkweeds, lily-of-the-valley, laurel, oleander, azalea, foxglove, etc.
This group of common plants all contain cardiac glycosides. Cardiac glycoside drugs derived from one of these plants, digitalis (foxglove), have been used for many years in the treatment of heart disease in people and animals. Due to their actions on the heart, however, ingestion of plants containing glycosides can be fatal. Signs may include vomiting, diarrhea, collapse, or death from heart failure. Fortunately, the plant has a bitter and very unpleasant taste! Nonetheless, the American Association of Poison Control Centers (AAPCC) report covering 425 fatal animal poisonings in 1990 includes 4 resulting from cardiac glycoside-containing plants.
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NIGHTSHADES/Solanums - X
Scientific name — Many, including: Solanum dulcamara, Solanum nigrum, Physalis.
Common names — Nightshades, Chinese lantern, Christmas cherry, Ornamental pepper
These primarily ornamental plants contain toxins called solanines that affect either the stomach or the brain, depending on the type of poison contained in the
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PET FIRST AID
Thanks to the Saint Bernard Club of America
In an emergency, first aid is never a substitute for veterinary treatment. On the other hand, if you are unable to get your pet to a veterinarian quickly, knowing what to do could save your dog's life. It is a good idea to keep emergency phone numbers in a handy place for your Veterinarian, your Emergency Animal Clinic, and your local poison control center.
The most important thing to do in any emergency situation is to stay calm, provide reassuring comfort to your pet and call your regular daytime or after hours emergency veterinary hospital for immediate instructions. Then, please follow these instructions, and not those of your neighbor, friend, breeder, etc. Always seek veterinary assistance ASAP.
For those times when you cannot immediately call or visit the veterinarian in an emergency, be prepared with knowledge and equipment. A good basic first aid kit for home or travel should include:
FIRST AID KIT
Item Use Adhesive tape rolls: 1" wide, 2" wide Use in bandaging & restraint Cling gauze, rolls: 1" wide, 2" wide Secure wound dressing, muzzle injured dog, making gauze pads when folded 2" & 3" squares of gauze pads, nonsterile use for skin infections or wounds Sterile 2" & 3" wound dressings protecting wounds Small scissors (plastic o.k.) blunt tips use in bandaging, cutting hair 1-ounce squeeze bottle hydrogen peroxide 3% flushing wounds Betadine solution cleaning wounds with disinfectant Antibiotic ointment tube use for skin infections or wounds Sterile eye wash: small 4-ounce bottle flushing eyes Rectal thermometer (attach a string to it so it won't get lost in the dog!) taking temperature Benedryl 25 mg capsules (1 dozen) (keep current dating) itching, bites, stings, allergy Ampicillin 500 mg capsules (1 dozen) (keep current dating) use if extended care necessary to fight infection Instant cold packs (2) use for cooling dog's body Instant hot packs (2) use for warming dog's body Muzzle protection from dog bites Needle and thread use to take stitches if needed for extended care Vaseline for thermometer lubrication Tourniquet use to stop bleeding Antiseptic solutions disinfectant for wounds, instruments Pair latex gloves use for personal protection Tweezers/forceps use to remove splinters, dirt, ticks Ipecac Syrup (30 ml) induce vomiting in certain cases of suspected poisoning oversized aluminized blanket (space blanket) use to keep animal warm, transport animal hydrocortisone cream use for itchy skin irritations A step by step first aid book
BASIC FIRST AID
BITE WOUNDS: Approach your dog carefully to avoid being bitten. Muzzle the animal. Wrap large open wounds to keep them clean. Apply pressure to profusely bleeding wounds. Bite wounds often become infected and need professional care.
BLEEDING: Apply firm, direct pressure over the bleeding area until the bleeding stops. Avoid bandages that cut off circulation.
BLOAT: Get your dog to the vet IMMEDIATELY! This is a life threatening situation that requires immediate veterinary intervention. Prevent further access to food or water, keep him quiet and provide plenty of fresh air.
Signs of bloat are enlarged abdomen, abdomen is painful, especially when touched, excess salivation, unsuccessful attempts at vomiting, difficult breathing, evidence of shock, reluctance to move and often refusal to lie down until collapsing. Once they lie down they usually will not move.
Gastric torsion involving the acute building up of large amounts of gas into the stomach and intestines, can cause the stomach to distend, rotate, and compartmentalize. This process can occur alarmingly fast, 30 to 90 minutes. The patient will rapidly deteriorate, and will go into shock, hypotension, heart arrythmias, toxemias, and death. Even with prompt veterinary care and surgical intervention, the outcome is guarded. Bloat is one of the most life threatening problem your Saint Bernard can have.
The best advise regarding bloat is to try to avoid it in the first place, by feeding your Saint 2 or 3 times a day, presoak the dry food, and avoid feeding before and after exercise, and do not allow consumption of large amounts of water in short periods of time, especially after eating and after exercise.
BREATHING (dog stops breathing): Check to see if the dog is choking on a foreign object (see CHOKING). If an object is removed from the throat and the animal is still not breathing, place it with its right side down. Close the dog's mouth and exhale directly into the nose, not the mouth, until the chest expands. Cover the nose with a handkerchief or a thin cloth if preferred. Exhale 12 to 15 times per minute. At the same time, apply heart massage with the other hand. The heart is located in the lower half of the chest behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place hand over the heart and compress the chest 1 to 2 inches for Saint Bernards. Apply heart massage 60 - 80 times per minute.
BURNS (chemical, electrical and heat): Signs are singed hair, blistering, swelling, redness of skin, reluctance to move, resistance to handling. Flush burn area immediately with large amounts of cold water. Do not contribute to further contamination of the burns. Cover the wounds with a clean cloth while transporting the animal. Keep dog quiet, prevent licking, scratching or rubbing the burn wounds. Bandage the involved area and apply a plastic bucket or Elizabethan collar if necessary.
If professional help is delayed 12 hours or more, give a saline solution orally. Mix 2 level teaspoons of table salt and 1 level teaspoon of baking soda in 3 pints of water. Give at a rate equal to 10% of the body weight of the dog the first day, and 5% the second day. Example: A 120 pound dog would require 6 quarts of the solution over the first 24 hours since 1 pint of water is approximately 1 pound.
CARDIAC ARREST: Causes are severe injuries with shock, drowning, electrical shock, heart diseases. Signs are unconsciousness, no breathing movement, no pulse, no femoral artery pulse can be felt, no heart beat can be felt, no respiration present. Start CPR: Place your knee behind the animal's head, cup its mouth and nostrils with one hand and administer mouth-to-nose breathing through a cupped hand. It is not necessary for one's mouth to touch animal's nose. Do this 12 - 15 times per minute. Using the other hand, apply cardiac massage by compressing the chest wall (60-80 times per minute.) If possible, find a second person to help. Use oxygen if available. Seek veterinary assistance when the pulse and respiration return or continue resuscitation attempts while on your way to the hospital - have someone call ahead. (See BREATHING)
CHOKING: Signs are difficulty breathing, excessive pawing at mouth, blue lips and tongue. Look into the mouth to see if foreign object in throat is visible. Clear the airway by removing the object with pliers or tweezers, being careful not to push it farther down the throat. If the object remains lodged, place your hands on both sides of the dog's rib cage and apply firm, quick pressure. Or place the dog on its side and strike the side of the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3 or 4 times. Repeat this procedure until the object is dislodged. (see BREATHING)
CUTS: Stop bleeding by direct pressure over the wound for several minutes. Then gently clean the cut with a 3" x 3" gauze pad, with water and a little betadine solution. Apply antibiotic ointment and seek assistance for any needed surgical repair. If the cut is dirty and even if you thoroughly cleaned it, and you cannot get to the vet for several hours, give an appropriate dose of antibiotic which your vet would recommend for such a situation.
DIARRHEA: Causes are changes in regular diet, overeating, ingestion of spoiled or unusual foods, emotional stress, excitement, fear or pain, parasites, diseases, poisons. Withhold all food; weaned puppies, 6-8 hours; adults 24 hours. Give ice cubes only. Then feed a soft bland diet. Make home prepared food or obtain a prescription diet from a veterinarian. Home prepared bland diet: mix 1/2 cup cottage cheese or boiled hamburger or boiled chicken with 1/2 cup boiled white rice. Give a quantity approximately 1/2 of your dog's normal food consumption for one day. Divide into small amounts to feed 3 to 4 times daily. Reintroduce normal diet gradually over 3 to 4 feeding. Withhold all water for 6-8 hours, then reintroduce it slowly. Small dogs, 1/3 cup every hour; large dogs, 1 cup every hour. Treat with Pepto Bismol or Kaopectate, administer orally, 1 tablespoon per 20 lbs. of body weight every 2-6 hours.
FEVER: A rectal temperature below 100F and above 103F is considered abnormal. For a high fever in a dog (104F-106F) aspirin may be used to relieve pain and reduce the fever. For a very high fever (106F and above) lower the temperature by submerging the dog in cold water or spraying with a hose. Take its temperature rectally every 5 minutes until it reaches 103.5F . Do not cool below this point as the temperature will continue to drift downward. Important: Care must be taken with the use of aspirin. It is an irritant to the stomach and cause vomiting and/or ulcers. Never give aspirin to puppies. See HEAT STROKE.
FRACTURES: Pain, inability to use leg. Muzzle the dog, control bleeding, and treat for shock. Protect open fractures with a sterile dressing. Watch for any sign of shock. DO NOT TRY TO RESET A FRACTURE. Handle the injured area as little as possible. These injuries cause severe pain and the dog will bite. Transport the dog to the veterinarian immediately, using a stretcher. If you are several hours away from help, attempt to apply a temporary splint. Do not bandage fractures of the pelvic area, shoulder blade, rib cage or upper limbs unless they are open wounds. Excessive struggling by the dog will make application of a splint very difficult or impossible.
FROSTBITE: Freezing of tissue usually occurs in peripheral parts of the body which are sparsely covered with hair and where blood circulation is poor - the scrotum, ears, feet, teats, and tail are the most commonly affected areas. Signs of frostbite are flushed and reddened tissues, white or greyish tissues, evidence of shock, scaliness of the skin, possible sloughing of surface tissue. Important: do not rub or massage frozen tissues. Never apply snow or ice. Tissue damage is greatly increased if thawing is followed by refreezing.
Prevent further contact with snow or cold. Prevent self mutilation of the area. Warm the affected are rapidly by immersing in warm water (102F - 105F) or use warm moist towels that are changed frequently. Discontinue warming as soon as the affected tissues become flushed. Gently dry the affected tissues, lightly wrap in a clean, dry bandage, and protect from further injury.
HEAT STROKE: Signs are rapid or difficult breathing, vomiting high body temperature, collapse. Place the dog in a tub of cold water, gently soak with a garden hose or wrap in a cold, wet towel. Apply cold compresses to head, neck, armpit, groin, and abdomen.
INSECT BITES and BEE STINGS: Signs are onset of swelling, itching and pain within one hour of bite. Remove stinger and apply cold packs. If isolated from veterinary care, a topical cortisone or an anti-inflammatory ointment can be rubbed on the area of the bite. A previously prescribed antihistamine may be given orally. If you are miles away from a vet, give Benedryl at 1/2 mg per pound weight given orally immediately, and again in 4 to 6 hours.
POISONING: Signs are vomiting, convulsions, diarrhea, salivation, weakness, depression, pain. Write down what the dog ingested and how much. Immediately call the veterinarian or poison control center. Do not induce vomiting or attempt treatment without direction from the doctor. In the case of poisoning on the fur or skin from oils, paints or chemicals, wash the animal with mild soap and rinse thoroughly. If possible, take the toxin and its container, and any vomitus with you to the vet.
SEIZURES: Life threatening. Signs are salivation, loss of control of urine or stool, violent muscle twitching, loss of consciousness. Move pet away from any objects that could be harmful. Use a blanket for padding and protection. Do not put yourself at risk by restraining the dog during the seizure. Time the seizure: it usually lasts only 2 or 3 minutes. Afterwards, keep the dog calm, quiet and cool. Use caution around a seizuring dog. They may bite without realization and cause severe injury even to family members they normally would never harm.
SHOCK: Signs are irregular breathing, dilated pupils, gums and lips are pale in color and dry, pulse is weak and rapid - usually over 160 per minute. May occur with serious injury or fright. Keep animal gently restrained, quiet and warm with head elevated. Shock is aggravated by pain, rough handling or delay in treatment. Do not give the dog anything to eat or drink. Keep warm. Wrap blankets over and under the animal, and place in a warm room or well heated car.
SNAKEBITE: Signs are rapid swelling, skin puncture, pain, weakness, shock. Stop all exercise to prevent spread of venom. Clean the area. Many poisons damage nerves or body tissue on contact. If seen within 10 minutes and the bite is on a leg, apply a loose 1"wide constricting band 2-3" above the joint above the bite, between the wound and the heart. You should be able to slip a finger under the band. Do not apply a tourniquet. Treat for SHOCK. Apply a cold, wet cloth over the wound. Do not pack the wound in ice. Nonpoisonous snake bites should be treated as simple puncture wounds.
VOMITING: Withhold food for 12-24 hours. Give ice cubes for two hours after vomiting stops. Then slowly increase the amount of water and foods given over a 24-hour period. Treat medically with Kaopectate or Pepto Bismol, administering orally 2 teaspoons per 10 lbs. of body weight every 2-6 hours; or antacid liquids, Maalox or Mylanta, administer orally 1 teaspoon per 20 lbs of body weight every 8 hours. Reintroduce water slowly in small amounts - 1 tablespoon per 10 lbs of body weight, or place several ice cubes in a bowl for the dog to lick. Puppies should be given a mixture of 1/2 teaspoon of table salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar mixed in 1 quart of water. Begin feeding a soft bland diet (see DIARRHEA) or feed broth or baby foods in small amounts several times a day. Gradually return to normal feedings during the next 1 to 2 days. Do not attempt to treat or wait when blood is present, vomiting is projectile, abdominal pain or distention is present.
Equipment to keep on hand
Muzzle: Use a strip of soft cloth, rope, necktie or nylon stocking. Wrap around the nose, under the chin and tie behind the ears. Care must be taken when handling weak or injured dogs. Even normally docile pets will bite when in pain. Allow animal to pant after handling by loosening or removing the muzzle. Do not use a muzzle in a case of vomiting. Cats and small pets may be more difficult to muzzle than large dogs. A towel placed around the head will help control small pets.
Stretcher: A door, board, blanket or floor mat can be used as a stretcher to transport injured or weak animals. A dolly with wheels is also essential for large dogs if several people are not available for assistance in transportation.
Hot weather hints and tips
All of us are aware of how deadly dangerous it is to leave animals in cars, even when they are shaded and left with the windows partly down. In the hot months of summer, the temperature inside a car can quickly soar to over 120F. Many pets have died agonizing deaths in a very short time after being left in such conditions.
Exercising your dog can be dangerous even in moderate heat. A dog cannot shed his coat clear down to the skin, as we can, or spray himself with water to cool off, or even drink water as he needs it, while jogging intensively alongside his owner. Dogs do not have the complete body cooling system of sweat glands that humans have. The only internal cooling system canines can use is heavy, open-mouthed panting and a slight sweating from the pads of the feet.
Dogs do share another serious problem with humans in summer, and that is smog. Oxygen intake, especially when a body is in motion, is critical to all species, and the more pollution in the air the less able the body is able to oxygenate all its vital systems. So expect respiration difficulties in your dog, especially the older models, when the air around it becomes more visible.
And if those are not enough problems, the ground, pavement, gravel and beach sand become very hot under the summer sun. A dog's pads are especially sensitive to repeated burning. Even shaded blacktop can retain a great deal of heat. So be very careful to check the surface where your dog must walk. Prolonged hot aerobic activity on any surface can cause more dangerous physical stress and dehydration to your dog that it ever benefits it by building endurance. You don't need a strong, dead dog!
During the hot summer season, physically note how much sun and how much shade is available to your Saint. Is there plenty of shade, along with cool ground surfaces all day long? Is his water source also shaded and cool at all times? Remember too, if the water supply comes from an uninsulated upright pipe, or even from a hose lying in the sun, that too can become an excellent solar heater. Many hot dogs will not drink warm water. As a result, they can become dehydrated, lethargic, and very ill. You can avoid these conditions by providing fresh, cool water in a clean receptacle at least twice a day all summer.
The dog days of summer sometimes curb your dog's appetite too. If this happens, try feeding your Saint earlier in the morning, and later in the evening. Keep any canned food refrigerated (who feeds a Saint canned food!) and mix meals with cool water rather than warm water.
The best rule of thumb for the hot summer weather is, if you feel hot yourself, consider that your dog is in trouble. Don't exercise your pet if the outside temperature is above 80 F. Don't leave him unattended in hot garages, rooms, automobiles, or even yards without proper shade and water, and be sure to provide ample shade, cool water, relaxation, and maybe even a child's wading pool during the warm weather. Prevention is the watchword, of course, since heat prostration and its aftermath, heatstroke, are preventable conditions. Products like the polar cooling mats may be purchased from dog catalogs and suppliers, and are useful during hot weather, but are often large and difficult to handle.
Cold Weather Hints and Tips
Animals that are well fed and conditioned to cold temperatures can survive severe conditions if sheltered from wind and moisture. Freezing and hypothermia are more likely to occur from exposure to very cold temperatures, high humidity, wind or immersion in water. Animals that are young, injured, ill, starving or fatigued are more susceptible in cold weather.
Dogs who are primarily outdoor dogs seldom get a serious case of cold feet. You may see your dog lifting up his feet when temperatures drop, but if he is an outdoor dog and in good health, you don't have to worry about his cold feet. All outdoor dogs (and indoor dogs that are left out for short periods of time) should have a doghouse and a good supply of fresh bedding. Hay is probably the best choice for bedding. Straw is OK, but it tends to break down and it has been known to poke a dog in the eye. Be sure the hay is dry and not moldy. Wood shavings are better than no bedding at all, but they tend to hold moisture. Avoid sawdust because it will get wet and stay wet. Watch for foxtails in your hay or straw - they can cause all kinds of problems if they get into a dog's eye, nose or mouth, or penetrate his skin.
Even outdoor dogs can get frostbitten if their feet get wet. Be especially careful with indoor dogs when they go outside. Going from indoors, dogs have warm feet that will melt snow or ice, causing wet feet. When wet feet freeze, frostbite can occur.
When you bring your outdoor dog indoors for a visit, keep it short. Too much time indoors can keep a dog from getting as full and heavy a coat as he would get if left outdoors. But leave him in long enough to be sure his coat is thoroughly dry before you put him back out. Outdoor dogs will have snow and ice in their coats, which will melt when they come indoors. If they are put back outside with a wet coat, they can get pneumonia. A couple of hours is usually a good visit. And while he is inside, give him some warm water flavored with meat or fish. Outdoor dogs often don't get enough water, so take every opportunity to get him to drink more.
REFERENCES
- "Heat & Cold Treatments for Pets," by Roger L. DeHaan, D.V.M. Canine Companion, February 1995.
- "Emergency Care for Cats and Dogs," by Craton Burkholder, D.V.M., M.A., 1991. Kesend Publishing Ltd., 1025 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028. ISBN 0935576185.
- "Cold Feet?" Alaskan Malamute Club Newsletter, October 1994.
- "PetFirstAid," from Southern Saints Newsletter, March 1994.
- Letter to the Editor, by Dr. Larry Occhipinti. The Bernard Bugle, Nov./Dec. 1993.
- "Summer Sizzles," Tom Lamês Newsletter, from the Bernard Bugle, May/June, 1994.
- "Dog Ownerês Home Veterinary Handbook," by Carlson and Giffin. 1992. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York, N.Y., 100022. ISBN 0876055374.
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Special thanks to the Author: Patricia Gail Burnham and Dog World Magazine for permission to post this very informative article. This article was published in the March 2000 issue of Dog World http://www.dogworldmag.com
The Meaning of a Complete Blood Count (CBC)
Patricia Gail Burnham
General blood tests performed for dogs can be divided into two kinds: chemistry profiles and a CBC (Complete Blood Count). The chemistry profile measures various chemicals in the blood while the CBC counts the various types of red and white blood cells. Living blood cells make up 45% of blood. The blood cells are swimming (or floating depending on the type) in blood plasma that makes up the other 55% of blood.
Complete Blood Count (CBC). A complete blood count is just that, a count of the various living cells that are swimming around in the blood serum. They are divided into two basic types of cell: red blood cells and white blood cells. All of the cells in the blood are produced in the dog’s bone marrow.
Red Blood Count (RBC) Red blood cells make up 99% of the total blood cells. Red cells are the longest-lived blood cells, living as long as four months. The job of the red blood cells is to carry oxygen from the lungs to the cells, and the dog needs oxygen all the time so the demand for red cells is ever present. (If you are a blood donor, the reason that you are only allowed to donate a pint of blood every six weeks is that it takes that much time for your bone marrow to replace the red blood cells that were given in your donation. If you donate blood plasma your body will replace the donation in two weeks, while it will replace donated platelets within three days. It is the red cells that take the longest to replace.)
Poor oxygenation of the blood will cause the liver to produce excess hemoglobin and the bone marrow to produce more red blood cells. High red counts are produced by dehydration, polycythemia (an excess of red cells being produced), bone marrow disease, excess iron, or malfunctioning of the liver or spleen. A low red count can be caused by either nutritional or genetic anemia. Nutritionally, iron, B12, and folic acid are required to manufacture red blood cells.
$ Normal Adult Range 4.8-9.3 million/UL
Hemoglobin ( HGB) Hemoglobin is the oxygen carrying protein in the blood. If the HGB level is high, then some toxin or a low oxygen level is stimulating the liver to produce extra hemoglobin, or the liver or spleen are not functioning, or excess iron is being consumed. A low hemoglobin level is caused by anemia due to lack of iron, B12, or folic acid in the diet.
$ Normal Adult Range 12.1-20.3 G/DL
Hematocrit (HCT) The hematocrit is a measure of the percentage of the red blood cells in the blood. A high HCT indicates dehydration or a reduced breakdown of red blood cells by the spleen. A low HCT indicates anemia, or an overactive spleen, or over hydration.
$ Normal Adult Range 37-55%
Mean Corpuscular Volume (MCV). The MCV reflects the size of the red blood cells. MCV is a calculated value that uses the volume of a red cell divided by the total number of red cells. If the level is high it means the red blood cells are larger than normal because they are old cells that the spleen has not destroyed. Iron deficiency anemia is a macrocytic (large cell) anemia because even though there are fewer red blood cells produced, each one is larger than normal. A dog’s MCV is high in iron deficiency anemia. Conversely, anemias due to B12 or folic acid deficiency are microcytic (small cell) anemias because the red blood cells are smaller than normal. If the MCV is low, the red blood cells are small and young and oxygen will not be transported efficiently to the tissues.
$ Normal Adult Range 58-79 FL
Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin( MCH) MCH gives the average weight of the hemoglobin in the red blood cells. MCH is calculated by dividing the HGB by the RBC. If the level is elevated it means inadequate oxygenation. If the level is low, the red blood cells are pale, usually due to an iron deficient diet.
$ Normal Adult Range 19-28 pico gms
MCHC (Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin Concentration) MCHC tells if the average red blood cell is anemic. MCHC is calculated by dividing the MCH by the MCV. A low MCHC indicates hypochromic anemia.
$ Normal Adult Range 30-38%
White Blood Count (WBC): The white blood cells are your dog’s disease fighting cells. Most of us have seen education films of magnified white cells attacking, killing and eating invading bacteria. White cells are some of the world’s smallest predators. They act as the dog’s defense army against invading microbes. The white blood cell count measures the disease fighting abilities of the blood. White blood cells in a healthy dog only account for one percent of the blood cells. They are far outnumbered by the oxygen carrying red cells. Because white cells are used only when it is necessary to fight an infection or disease, there is no reason to have hordes of them circulating in the blood of a healthy animal. Instead, small numbers of white cells circulate to meet the initial infection, but the body is capable of producing a large number of white cells quickly when they are needed to fight an infection or disease. So a high WBC indicates a that the body is producing white cells to meet the attack of a bacterial infection. A lower than normal level of white cells indicates a weak immune system, an active disease or a current infection that is winning its war with the white cells.
$ Normal Adult Range 4.0-15.5 thousands/UV
In addition to the total white blood count, the blood count will give a breakdown of the percentages of four different types of white cells. All white cells start out as blasts. They mature through stages into a variety of types of white cells. These are the neutrophils, lymphocytes, monocytes and eosinophils. The readings for the different types of white cells are given both as an absolute figure and as percentages of the total white count. The percentages for the four types of white cells should add up to 100%
Neutrophils are short-lived blood cells. The only live for seven hours, during which time they help combat infections. They are also called granulocytes. They start out as blasts and mature through several stages from blast to myleocyte to metamyelocyte to a segmented neutrophil. At one stage in their development they start showing characteristic dark granules in their nucleus which is why they are called granulocytes.
$ Normal Adult Range 60-77 % (2060-10600/UL)
Lymphocytes are white cells that help fight infection. T-cells are lymphocytes under the control of the thymus gland. T-cells alert the body to germs, viruses, and toxins. B-cells manufacture antibodies. If the lymphocyte level is elevated, the immune system is active due to an infection. If the count is very low, the immune system is exhausted.
$ Normal Adult Range 12-30 % (690-4500/UL)
Monocytes are part of the mononuclear group of cells that help the granulocytes fight infection. An elevated level indicates chronic degenerative diseases including liver infection. In this case you want a low value.
$ Normal Adult Range 3-10% (0-840/UL)
Esinophils are cells in the granulocytic series. Esinophils got their name because they stain red with a dye called eosin. The eosinophils protect against allergic reactions and parasites. If elevated, an allergy is in progress or parasites are present.
$ Normal Adult Range 2-10% (38-1200/UL)
Platelets. Large cells within the bone marrow called megakaroyocytes, regularly pinch off pieces of their cytoplasm. These cell fragments, which contain no nuclei, enter the bloodstream where they help blood to clot. They are called platelets. They live for a week. My blood bank selectively harvests platelets to give to cancer and burn victims. The plastic platelet bags are air permeable to let the live cells breathe . A bag full of platelets doesn’t look like blood at all. It looks like pale yellow melted fat. But without platelets, blood won’t clot. A raised platelet level indicates dehydration or over active bone marrow. A low level can be caused by drugs, an immune system failure, or low B12 or folic acid intake. Chemotherapy and burns will also lower platlet levels. A very low level is considered to be life threatening, as a dog could bleed to death internally.
.$ Normal Adult Range 170-400 thousands/UL
There are some breeds of dogs for which the normal range of blood cell counts is different from the averages. Greyhounds, because of their specialization for high speed running, tend to have higher red cell counts both at rest and when running, and they often have borderline low white counts. For example a normal resting red count range for Greyhounds is 7.8-9.2 million /UL . This is on the high end of normal for the average dog and has led some veterinarians to treat normal Greyhounds for polycythemia when their red blood counts are within normal for Greyhounds.
You can’t just add extra red cells to blood without risking making the blood so thick that it won’t pump properly, so in order to raise their red cell count, Greyhounds have lowered their white counts. For the improved running speed that extra red cells provide, Greyhounds have been bred to maximize their oxygen carrying red cell counts and minimize their white cell counts. A healthy Greyhound’s white count ranges from 3.5 to 6.5 thousand/UL, which would be low for a normal dog. While extensive research has been done on Greyhounds because of their racing activities, it is possible that the other sighthound breeds might also differ somewhat from the normal values for red and white cell counts.
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Von Willebrand's disease...
in Greyt Information
Posted
Quote:
Von Willebrand’s isn’t so much a disease as a condition. Of all the inherited bleeding disorders in animals (and humans) it is the most common. The defect isn’t autosomal (sex linked) so both males and females can suffer from the “disease.” It must be remembered that just because a dog doesn’t show symptoms of von Willebrand’s, it doesn’t mean it can’t be a carrier.
Von Willebrand’s was discovered in humans and called a “disease” in the 1920s by a Finnish doctor coincidentally named, von Willebrand. After further research, he was able to figure out the illness was actually linked to a missing factor in the blood’s clotting ability.
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Modern research has found von Willebrand’s doesn’t lower the number of platelets (the factor in the blood that causes clotting) but changes the platelet’s actual make up. Researchers have discovered there are twelve “factors” that go into the platelet’s make up and allows them to work properly. They have set up a “Cascading Clotting Tree” to mark and show the different factors. Von Willebrand’s affects Factor 8 on this tree.
There is a large, multimeric glycoprotein that is labeled as vWF. This glycoprotein circulates in the plasma and is required for platelet adhesion. When there is a defect in the vWF gene, there is an insufficient synthesis of the vWF glycoprotein. This insufficiency causes the platelets to fail in their adhesion or “sticking together.” Like water coming through a #### with a hole in it, the platelet “leaks” and bleeding continues.
Von Willebrand’s seldom happens in cats but it is very common in various breeds of dogs. In all, some sixty different purebred breeds have been commonly linked to von Willebrand’s with the Doberman Pinscher having the highest incidence. Clinical trials conducted on 15,000 Dobermans showed seventy percent of them were carriers of the disease. Of these 15,000 Dobermans, the majority of them didn’t show clinical signs. Another study estimated 68%-73% of Dobermans had the disease
Although Dobermans are the most commonly affected by von Willebrand’s Disease, they usually have the milder forms. It is also one reason Dobermans have such a lower survival rate of diseases such as Parvovirus, which attacks the gastro-intestinal tract and causes bleeding.
Other breeds that have a high incidence of von Willebrand’s disease are Shetland sheepdogs, Scottish terriers, Airedale terriers, Bassett hounds, Dachshunds, German shepherds, Keeshonds, Corgies, Rottweilers, Poodles, Schnauzers and Golden retrievers.
Often von Willebrand’s will show no clinical signs until the dog begins bleeding for some reason. This reason could be something as simple as a nail trim, spay or neuter or a heat cycle in females or even teething in a puppy. While some dogs never show clinical signs of the disease, others may have nosebleeds or vaginal or penile bleeding. Bleeding from the urinary tract, gums or other mucous membranes and hemorrhaging under the skin are all common symptoms of von Willebrand’s Disease. Females with von Willebrand’s may experience excessive bleeding after whelping (giving birth).
There are three classifications of von Willebrand’s disease:
Type I – low vWF concentration. This is the most common of types and is typical of Dobermans, Airedales and at least one-third of Shelties. The clinical symptoms may vary in severity.
Type II –Uncommon form of von Willebrand’s that is attributed to German Shorthaired Pointers.
Type III – The most severe of types. It has the highest deficiency of vWF and is a typical defect in Scotties, Chesapeake Bay retrievers and the remaining two-thirds of affected Shelties.
Studies have shown hyperthyroidism may raise the risk of bleeding complications in animals that have von Willebrand’s Disease.
To diagnose von Willebrand’s Disease a veterinarian will often conduct a CBC (complete blood count), urinalysis, blood clotting time or a “buccal mucosal” screening time. The buccal mucosal bleeding time uses a test strip that is tied around the maxilla (upper jaw) that then causes engorgement in the folded-back area. Normal blood clotting time is somewhere between 1.5 to 2.6 minutes.
It is interesting to note many Dobermans and other high risk breeds may go through routine ear trims, tail docks, early spays or neuters and show no signs of von Willebrand’s then at a much later time in their life show the classic symptoms.
There is no cure for von Willebrand’s but there are some precautions an owner can take to reduce the risks to their dog. Avoid drugs that are known to inhibit platelet functions. Aspirin is a prime example of one of these drugs. Others include antihistamines, sulfa- or penicillin based antibiotics, Ibuprofen, the tranquilizer phenothiazine, heparin and theophylline.
Veterinarians have found that thyroid supplementation can lower the tendency in some dogs to bleed while raising the level of vWF concentration.
There is also a drug called DDAVP that can also increase the vWF protein concentration although the response to the drug is variable. It has been shown to raise the concentration in dogs that do not have von Willebrand’s disease. The use in these dogs may not be apparent until it is realized it takes a dog to donate blood for a transfusion to another dog. In case of an emergency or severe trauma, this donated blood is often the only thing that can save the dog’s life.
For owners of breeds that are more prone to having von Willebrand’s disease, there is a specialized test that can determine the exact amount of the von Willebrand protein that is present in the blood. If the test comes back positive for the disease, it won’t necessary help the dog on a daily basis but will come in handy to know if the dog ever requires emergency treatment or undergoes any type of surgery.
Von Willebrand’s disease isn’t an automatic death sentence to dogs. Many of the dogs that have the condition will live normal lives with no complications. For those that do show clinical signs, there are always options for the owner to guarantee the best quality of life the pet can have.
Written by Tenna Perry
Title: Canine Von Willebrand's disease
Description: Von Willebrands Disease is the most common of bleeding disorders in dogs and humans. Symptoms diagnosis and general information of the condition
Copyright 2001 by PageWise, Inc.