3greytjoys
-
Posts
2,040 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Articles
Posts posted by 3greytjoys
-
-
I agree that Greyhounds of any age are more sensitive to many drugs than other breeds.
I don't recall Slick's current age, but hounds can become even more drug sensitive as they age.
One example (of several): One of our 13 year old hounds recently spent weeks trying to recover from two separate medication reactions. The most surprising was a simple (vet recommended) dose of Pepcid. (Over the years on an "as needed" basis, 10 mg. of Pepcid has worked well for all of our Greyhounds. This time, vet prescribed a (general breed) dose of 20 mg. which was too much for his system.)
We've never used Bravecto. The only flea+tick treatment we've ever used on our younger hounds (or fosters) is topical Frontline.
Glad Slick seems to be recovering well.
-
Aside from a likely potential new fear and/or too cold morning temperatures (don't know your region/climate), another consideration is how long he is being left alone during the days he's had/having bowel accidents. If he's being left alone for a full work day without any access to eliminate outside, medically, he may not be able to physically hold it.
His immediate panic when hearing the garage door could be an anxiety trigger as he realizes he is being left without his "door control people" for an extended period of time. If humans are gone all day, perhaps a friend or pet sitter could stop in to provide the dogs a mid-day potty outing. A call to your local airport might explain recent scary test flights happening during your absence.
Some dogs can develop general separation anxiety later in life; however, it seems your boy's situation started suddenly combined with the gate jumping injury. Could be a new environmental fear or a medical/physical needs issue. As you mentioned, a vet visit may be helpful in the coming weeks.
Our Greyhounds currently range from middle age to nearly 14 years old. They are not left alone without outside elimination relief for more than 4 or 5 hours max. (Same timing when they were younger.) We also watch each hound to ensure they fully eliminate before human departures. Two hounds become anxious when triggered by watching humans' departure signals, so they're offered an additional outing after their breakfast (while they're still feeling calm enough to fully eliminate) but before humans' morning dressing routine begins. Their 3rd morning outing occurs within 10 minutes of actual departure.
Good luck this week.
-
If she eats kibble, first I'd try a more substantial bedtime snack of about 1/2 cup of kibble instead of cheese (cheese is likely higher fat/sodium). Not sure what kind of meat but I'd avoid processed lunch meats or anything with spices. Unless she needs to gain weight, it's okay to reduce dinner portion by 1/2 cup kibble to keep her caloric intake stable.
If her gums/teeth are sore and in need of an upcoming dental, her kibble might need to soak in water to soften for 10-15 minutes so chewing is not painful. (Very soft foods stick to teeth easily and build tartar faster, so gentle brushing is important.) Refrigerate uneaten soft food within about 30 minutes. If not eaten at next mealtime, discard soft food.
If hounds are hungry with an upset tummy they're less willing to eat.
Separate issue: Calm/relaxed and happy meal times are most successful since anxious or highly sensitive dogs may shut down emotionally if feeling stress related to eating or to their meal environment (e.g. ensure eating space is not crowded/busy).
-
Absolutely, pets must be kept on heartworm preventative throughout the year in CA. Mosquitoes are active during winter months too. January and February 2016 are expected to be a bit more rainy than in recent years. The benefit will be beautiful green hillsides (or snow if you're visiting the high mountain regions).
-
Having 3 excessive bleeders here, I second Greysmom's mention of aminocaproic acid. It's worth the mention to your vet if Keiva continues to bleed. If you get her home on schedule, continue to watch for bleeding (could be external or internal pooling).
-
We use large crates, and/or tallest metal exercise pens for our Greyhounds depending on travel destination needs. Ex-pens offer more room for fully supervised hounds, but crates are more secure. Attachable water containers are available for either style. When folded for transport, either style slides sideways behind the front car seats.
When we're buying ex-pens, we prefer the tallest 48" pens since our hounds are less likely to jump out. Ex-pens should be very well-secured and staked to the ground, otherwise ex-pens can collapse onto dogs. Ex-pens are versatile: when not traveling, we use them to form a U-shape safety zone around house doors or fence gates leading to non-fenced areas, or open them up and add fence posts to create a smaller dog yard within a larger fenced yard.
Ex-pens are useful inside as a post-surgery recovery space also.
If staying in a vacation home, it's safest to have a human stay with dog/s, but if a brief departure is unavoidable, a fully enclosed crate is usually safer. Even calm hounds have a stronger potential for panicking in a strange vacation home if their humans leave dogs' sight.
I would not recommend anything soft-sided because many dogs will chew through the material and escape.
-
Oh how very sad; 44 is too young. My deepest sympathy to you, and her other friends and family who are missing her. Glad her hounds are in good care, they're probably deeply grieving her loss.
-
Many excellent suggestions so far.
Just curious if you've tried taking her outside strictly to eliminate after she awakens from her initial couple of hours of being quiet? Being a young 1 year old in a new environment, eating different food, being away from Greyhounds for the first time in life, she's likely to need to eliminate more often now. Also, assuming she had a veterinary exam before adoption to ensure she's clear of parasites or UTI.
Feeding all full meals inside the crate helps a lot. As mentioned, a very thick dog bed helps thin-skinned Greyhounds settle in their crate (ensure she doesn't chew/ingest bedding). Encouraging her to rest in her open-door crate periodically while the family is active in the same room also.
More exercise could be helpful to tire her well enough to sleep overnight, but I would not use a lure pole since you have cats. (Lure poles encourage prey drive.)
I'm curious about her reaction to your cats. Feel free to elaborate, if needed. Hopefully, she's muzzled (with a Greyhound turn-out muzzle that allows panting and drinking water), and under close supervision when there is any chance of her having access to the cats. Greyhounds are faster than humans or cats. Our cats appreciate baby-gates installed 5"-6" above floor level as a wide escape route.
I agree with Amber about not using punishment collars. Good luck, and please keep in touch for additional suggestions.
-
Yes. multiple dog beds are a great thing!
Costco sells large, cushy dog beds for $28.99.Two dog beds for 1 hound would be helpful. (We happen to have 7 dog beds in the family room for up to 5 dogs. 14 beds throughout the house.)
Prevention is key. Please do not do anything that knowingly triggers a dog to growl, snap or bite. The most important thing is keep yourself safe, and not do anything that your dog perceives as threatening. These are primary reasons to happily and freely call the dog off the furniture (preferably into another room) for high-value food/treats, toy, fun game, or walk reward. You are keeping yourself safe by remaining at a safe distance away, and rewarding the dog for coming to you in response to your happy call. If your dog doesn't respond to your call willingly, as mentioned drop treats on the floor several feet away from the sofa so the dog sees the treats. The action of moving "off" the sofa is the rewarded behavior. (You are not sitting on the sofa feeding treats while the dog is still lying on the sofa -- that would be reinforcing undesirable behavior of dog staying on sofa.) If she refuses to move off the sofa when called, unemotionally leave the room until she moves off willingly (she may try to follow you just to see what you're doing). Thereafter, do a better job of preventing her access to the sofa.
Many dogs will bite if they feel confronted, threatened, frightened if a human tries to get close enough to place any type of leash on the dog in a guarding situation. Most bites are based from dogs' fear as self-defense and/or underlying stress anxiety (stress that could be building silently over an extended period of time).
Another important key in this situation is human + dog + environmental management. Now, you've succeeded by setting-up a thick, comfortable dog bed in your most used family room so your dog still feels included as part of the family. Next step (if needed) would be to block off dog's access to the sofa, either by empty boxes, temporary free-standing make-shift gate -- large flat piece of cardboard, etc. Last resort, If needed on the sofa itself, you could place an uncomfortable object on the sofa like an upside down chair mat (pointy side up), etc. Whatever you use, just ensure it won't fall off or harm the dog. Most dogs won't want to lie down on an uncomfortable surface. These barriers are temporary only until the dog develops a solid habit of resting on her own dog bed.
There is no punishment because confrontation, dominance, or aggression by a human begets confrontational, dominant, aggressive REactions from animals. If a dog doesn't react to negative confrontation with an immediate growl or bite, it still deeply stresses the dog emotionally and often resurfaces later -- whether with reduced bite inhibition, increased existing negative behaviors, new negative behaviors, increased distrust in humans, increased fear, and increased anxiety, etc.
Dogs do remember the way they are treated, and dominance methods change dogs' temperaments in magnified negative ways. Most sadly, even today some TV personalities and others perpetuate old school methods of dominance/aversive training used since long before the 1950's. Fortunately, concerned, well-educated dog trainers began teaching positive, reward-based (non-aversive) methods in the 1980's after much scientific research proved the wide-spread damage dominance training had on animals, and their relationships with humans.
A good way to teach is thinking in terms of your dog as a respected, young canine partner. Consistently and happily capture and reward your dog's natural good behaviors. "Learn to earn" exercises would be helpful in teaching impulse-control, and helps build a good foundation between human and dog. (e.g., teach your dog to stand and "wait" (or lie down) for a moment before human places the meal in the dog's raised feeder; "wait" before going through an open door, etc.
Greyhounds are a highly sensitive breed that respond much better to respectful, kind, calm, positive, reward-based (non-forceful) methods of communication.
Thank you for your willingness to inquire about how to handle your situation. Obviously, these suggestions are made without us seeing your dog in person, so a local positive-method certified behaviorist would be recommended. (NeylasMom offered referral assistance if needed.) -
How is Teddy doing? I hope he's been improving.
-
Spin is a fun one that's easy to teach. Make it more advanced by teaching 2 cues, one for each direction.
This is a great one. Teaching two directions can also be used as a shaping behavior for other cues later.
Our hounds respond with such delight and heads held high when responding to "heel left" vs. "heel right" during leashed walks.
(In our case of walking multiple hounds, it provides the entire group a useful clear indication whenever making a turn.)
-
For aggression issues, I always recommend working with an animal behaviorist or at least a very skilled, qualified trainer who uses only reward based methods.
...physical punishment is only likely to increase your dog's aggression,
...removing couch privileges was smart. If she does get on the furniture... run and get something yummy... and just toss it on the floor where she sees it so she jumps down on her own. Trying to grab her collar and remove her physically from the couch is asking for a bite (large proportion of dog bites happen over collar grabs). She's new to your home and still adjusting so give her her space while you seek out professional help.
...see things from her perspective - she's uncomfortable with you being in her space, not something she's had to deal with her entire life and her only way to convey that to you is through vocalizing, growling, snapping or biting. The fact that she gives warnings is a good thing. Heed them, try not to put her in positions where she needs to use them and try not to take it personally (tough, I know, but this is how dogs communicate...).
... not only can punishing her warnings increase her aggression, you may end up inadvertently suppressing her warning signs. That's the last thing you want to do as a dog who will growl or snarl first is much less of a danger than a dog who goes straight to biting.
Please do not hold her muzzle -- a good way to get bitten. She should have NO couch or bed privileges for a very long time.
Still resource guarding...
Also a lot of moving around in a short period of time for her = stress. The more stressors in a dog's life, the more likely the dog is to react aggressively to some trigger.
All of this to say, you need a trainer to help you identify and reduce/eliminate the stressors in her life and give you a behavior modification plan for the guarding. Again, please let me know if you'd like a referral.
And trust your gut on not using the punishment, it will only make the situation worse.
Growling is their way of communicating and letting you know she doesn't like what you're doing, even if it's sitting close to you. If you punish for growling they may not growl, rather just go for the bite next time. You may also want to look up calming signals. Tongue flicks, licking their mouth, yawning are all signs of a dog who may be anxious or uncomfortable and is trying to let you know.
Don't hit her with your fingers. You're more likely to increase her fear of you and end up with worse problems which is why you should seek out a trainer who only teaches positive reinforcement.
Many extremely important points highlighted in quotes above.
Try to think proactively by setting-up your dog's home environment for success, including her safe, undisturbed personal resting spaces.
When a dog is resource guarding something (like a human's bed, sofa, or dangerous bone, etc.), try to redirect dog to something different by offering a delicious higher value "trade-up" food that the dog can eat safely without it being taken away -- either by tossing on floor where dog can see it, or running into another room happily calling dog to follow you for a super special treat. A safe toy works well for some dogs, or if dog loves walks, ask dog to "go for a walk" in a happy voice (and follow-through immediately with a real leashed walk).
I agree with others. Please do not use any punishment based (or dominating methods); especially not on a growling dog who is trying to communicate their personal discomfort the only way they know how. Negative based methods have been scientifically proven to cause and/or increase dogs' aggression and distrust in humans. Try to consider a growl as a "gift" of a caution/warning. If the cause of the dog's perceived human threatening behavior continues (meaning human doesn't back off immediately) it forces the dog to escalate his/her communication severity to get his/her point across (potential snap or bite).
Below is one of my responses from another GT thread re: biting:
Many adoption groups discourage allowing dogs on human furniture, especially during the first year or longer while settling into a new home. Some dogs should never be allowed on human furniture due to sleep startle, canine space needs, etc.
We usually give hounds affection for a couple of minutes (of their time choice) whenever they are standing up and approach us seeking attention, but we don't disturb them while they're resting on their beds for excessive petting. We abide by the common guideline for dogs to "let resting dogs lie undisturbed". Whether awake or asleep, their beds are considered their undisturbed "doggie safe zone". (Same reason we don't trim nails or brush teeth while they're lying on their beds.) When dogs know they can feel completely safe on their own beds, it helps them develop a more trusting foundation with their humans and helps them feel safe and relaxed in their home environment. Racing Greyhounds weren't reared in family homes and most are not used to being showered with excessively close attention. They were left undisturbed inside their racing kennel crates to rest and eat meals They are accustomed to having their own personal space and resources. It takes time and positive experiences for them to understand, trust, and adjust to their new family life.
Any dogs can feel threatened by direct eye contact, or reaching overhead for petting, etc. Safer to approach from the side and pet their shoulder so they don't feel cornered/trapped from the front.
Below are some important warning signals that dogs often show as their discomfort to stimuli increases. If you see any of these canine body language behaviors, please ensure petting or whatever is causing the dog to feel discomfort ceases immediately. Any person should calmly back away from the dog. (This quick list is off the top of my head so isn't complete.)
- Yawning (early sign of discomfort when dog is not tired)
- Quick lip lick (early sign of discomfort)
- Turns head away from person (early sign of discomfort)
- Dog may watch with peripheral vision if dog appears to be looking away with head turned.
- Whale eye (you may see the whites of the dog's eye)
- Lips: a dog about to bite often forms a "C" at the mouth's inner corners with forward, tense lips and muzzle with whiskers forward.
- Frozen/hardened eye stare with dialated pupils.
- Brief tense body freeze (just before launching forward to bite).
- Body's center of gravity in a forward position (potentially preparing for action).
Please see this excellent excerpt about racing Greyhounds previous life experience:
What Greyhounds are Thinking: http://www.northerng...ghtsOfAGrey.php
End quote.
-
Considering your current bowel quantity concern, unless your vet recommended extra canned dog food and green beans, perhaps try cutting those two items out (as an experiment). Adding water will reduce risk of choking on dry kibble, and helps ensure he's properly hydrated.
Assuming it's one of Natural Balance's foods, that is a good quality food. If your boy is healthy, has a good appetite, and well-formed stools, seems it's agreeing with his system. Completely changing foods might upset his system. (If you end up changing kibble later, transition very gradually over 3-4 weeks.)
How does his body weight appear? (Healthy pet weight is to see the last two ribs, and hip points.)
An important factor here with multiple hounds is our 14" long dog waste bags. Nothing shorter will do. Thankfully, our hounds have multiple healthy poops per day.
-
Just a guess: might be ringworm (which is not a worm, but is fungal). It's usually a little more red than the color in your photo, but perhaps the first round of treatment might have begun a little healing(?). If it is ringworm, I don't believe it will go away on it's own without medication. A culture could help ensure appropriate treatment.
-
You may or may not be interested in these suggestions:PetSTEP Ramp:We love the wonderfully secure rubber traction design on this ramp, especially when it rains or snows.It folds easily and rests behind the front car seats. Could it be longer or wider(?)... Definitely, but the secure footing was worth it to us. (It's too short for trucks or large SUV's.) We got the lighter color so elder dogs can see it more easily. Reflective strips could be added along the sides if needed for easier visibility in snow. http://www.petstep.com/index.htmI think it's important to teach hounds to walk on any ramp on floor level first, then up one step, then up two steps, etc. until they graduate to the car height. We practiced for a week or longer by placing the ramp inside on a brightly lit, narrow walkway leading out to their potty area. Of course, any elder dog needs to be closely escorted on any car ramp. Our teenage hounds still use this car ramp.Assistance Harnesses:We have the neoprene "Walkabelly" which works well for our females, but I'm planning to order one of their other styles for elder boys for stair assistance. http://www.walkaboutharnesses.com/collections/walkabout-harnesses
-
Xengab, you may already be doing this, but when practicing longer "down" durations, try offering multiple treat rewards rapidly to help him hold the position, then slow the timing of the treat rewards.
Try to "release" him before he moves out of position. If he jumps up, calmly start over and release him quickly so he succeeds, Next repeat, try holding a treat slightly above his head and lowering it to his mouth for him to eat. If he jumps up, withhold the reward. Calmly ask him to do another "down" and end on a positive note. Keep training sessions short <5-10 minutes.
Fortunately, your hound appears to be young, happy-go-lucky and tolerant of human's close physical behavior. Good idea to watch any dog for their stressful calming signals so you'll have an idea when he might prefer more space. (Yawning, quick lip licks, looking away from a human, whale eye -- seeing whites of their eye, etc.)
Side note in response to others re: tuck and fold sit:
Many positive reinforcement trainers are no longer teaching the old T&F method. Not worth the common bite risk, especially when teaching adult dogs.
We've had a number of hounds come through that would not tolerate the personally space invasive forced physical manipulation of a tuck and fold, especially from a new owner whose dog doesn't yet fully trust their new owner.
One of our own hounds tried to bite a previous foster parent when they attempted a tuck and fold. Same result when they attempted a rear-end push down. Each time forced negative methods occur, it can intensify a dog's distrust of humans, taking longer to overcome. Some dogs tolerate it, others do not. Rewarding natural capturing methods are more kind, build trust, and are more successful.
-
Agree with others re: vet visit, and that feeding management is key.
We do potty outings immediately before meals. Separate hounds during meal preparation and while they're eating meals (using baby-gates/ex-pens/crates, etc.). If possible, give each hound something else to do independently while they're waiting for food. Ours get a fun toy or something to refocus their excitement/energy towards while awaiting meals. Bowls are removed immediately after each dog finishes their own meal. Fosters and/or canine visitors are separated before and during meals also. When dogs can eat in their own private space without fear of another dog stealing their food, they can relax more easily.
Multiple dogs around food, and/or food preparation has been the most risky time for serious fights in my experience. I've separated dogs by holding a chair upside down (by chair legs) and placing the chair's back between fighting dogs' faces. This safely separates dogs (even if dogs are rearing up on their hind legs), while keeping a human at a safe distance away.
Brandi's probably stressed and feeling pain now and needs time and space to recover.
After she's feeling better, if possible, briefly work with Brandi separately to help her with confidence building exercises. Keep sessions <5 minutes or so. Example: Practice "down" and "stay" with you remaining close by. Provide treat rewards, then offer a "release" cue for her to move around naturally. Practice gradually extending her down/stay duration. As she improves, you begin to move farther away, eventually going into the next room (leaving her sight) for a few seconds. Gradually build duration of her down/stays while you are out of sight. If she breaks her stay too soon, calmly start over. If you begin to feel any frustration, or if she begins to shut down mentally, stop immediately. Briefly refocus by asking for one easy behavior she does really well so her practice session ends on a positive note. "Find it" or "treasure hunt" exercises are fun.
Helps to practice walking behavior when she's alone (or with only one other hound maximum). During walks, if you see another dog in the distance, happily keep moving while offering Brandi treats to engage her attention towards you instead of the other dog. Brandi needs her personal space so try make a brief turn (or U turn) walking away from the strange dog. In Brandi's mind, you need to be a lot more fun and exciting than a potentially scary passing dog. Good to keep leash length short enough to keep Brandi safely heeling next to your leg, but it's important that there not be tension from the leash going to her collar. (Constant leash tension increases a dog's stress/anxiety. Also makes them feel trapped if meeting an unfamiliar dog.) Hope some of this helps.
-
Oh Alicia, after all you and Henry have been through, I'm so deeply sorry that he has been stricken with more cancer. Glad that you were so alert to all his signs of pain and rushed him in for tests. My heart goes out to you all.
I imagine Henry will be comforted by your loving, calming presence at home. Wishing you more gifted moments, pictures, and perhaps a clipping of his beautiful red brindle fur. You're all in our positive thoughts.
-
Oh, I'm so deeply sorry your beloved beautiful girl passed so suddenly. This is such shockingly heartbreaking news.
If you ever feel up to posting in Remembrance in the future, we'd be interested to read more about your special girl.
Heartfelt hugs during this most difficult time.
-
Ohh, I'm so sorry Andy wasn't able to share life with you a bit longer.
Thank you for caring for him so lovingly during his later life time of need.
May your happy memories together always remain close in heart.
-
I respectfully disagree... that you should never use the hug and tuck method for a greyhound.
Here's an example by Pat Miller, CPDT,:
"Why not just push the dog into a sit, or “tuck” him into a sit by pressing in gently above the hocks?
Some dogs are reluctant to sit due to back or joint pain, and need to learn to find a way to move into a sit that doesn’t hurt; your push may cause excruciating pain.
Other dogs resent being physically manipulated. That may or may not be the reason I had a recent client whose Scottish Terrier caused serious injuries to his prior trainer when she tried to push him into a sit. He resisted her first two push-sit attempts, and on the third try went up her arm with his teeth."
Source: http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/9_3/features/Training-Your-Dog-Using-Shaping_15792-1.html
-
Congratulations on your new adoption! So sorry you lost both of your previous hounds this year.
If leash walking him in your yard doesn't help, try to arrange for a previously adopted, healthy, fellow Greyhound to come over for a yard visit. (Ensure the visiting hound has had a recent clear fecal test.) Since racers are accustomed to group kennel yard eliminations, he will probably come around soon. Otherwise, try capturing his urine in a large container (or use a long handled ladle to pour it into a container), then pour around the preferred elimination area in your yard. If your yard has chemicals or fertilizers, he might dislike the scent or feel paw pad burning/discomfort. (It's possible the pee pad, etc. might be confusing him too.)
Good luck.
-
I'm so sorry for your sad loss of Kipper.
May your happy memories of Kipper help you through this difficult time and beyond.
Godspeed your special sweet boy.
-
There have been several cats in our extended neighborhoods that have been aggressive towards any moving passersby (humans, dogs, and cats). One cat recently attacked both legs of a human who was walking by on a public sidewalk (far from the cat's owner's house). Deep puncture bites and scratches to the human required professional medical care and took months to heal. Same cat chases any passersby out of his/her home territory, and beyond including crossing a quiet street. That cat's aggressive feline prey behavior has increased over the years due to repeated self-rewards of attacks with captures.
(Young kittens are highly prey driven and often chase anything that moves. Fortunately, as they mature, most cats learn to avoid larger animals like dogs, but some don't.)
All veterinarians we've seen in the past 30+ years have recommended keeping cats indoors for their health, safety, and the safety of others. Pet owners who allow their pets to roam outside must assume many dangerous risks. Any breed of dog, coyote, etc. could harm or kill a cat. (A loose Labrador killed a neighbors' cat.)
I'm so sorry you are going through this with Charlie. I hope your area laws won't force him to wear a muzzle since that would put Charlie at greater risk to be seriously harmed by a loose dog. If your hound might be required to wear a muzzle while on leashed walks, I hope they would permit a Greyhound turnout muzzle or Greyhound racing muzzle which would allow Charlie to safely pant and drink water.
Costco sells large, cushy dog beds for $28.99.
What Happened To Slick?
in Health and Medical discussion
Posted
Just wanted to add that some other symptoms of toxicity/poisoning (depending on the type of toxin) are:
Vomiting
Hypersalivation
Dizziness
Lack of coordination
Weakness
Tremors
Seizures
Collapsing
Paralysis
Potential organ failure
Death