Sambuca
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Posts posted by Sambuca
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I recommend Comfortis over Capstar. They work similarly (from what I gather), but Comfortis lasts all month.
I agree, you need to really start controlling the environment as well.
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She is up to date but supposedly in my county they can still require a quarantine up to 15 days
hopefully if the AC even bothers to contact me they won't do anything, but they found a rabid cat who had kittens in my area a month or so ago. (My cat never goes outside but who knows if the AC people care...) ETA: Thank you, I always trust your advice! I am sure the puppy was just overly excited, I just panicked!!! ETA: Thank you, hopefully I can work on this, puppies are not my thing!
You're welcome.
Most of us panic in those situations. They are scary.
Years ago I had to get a tetanus shot for a dog bite. My arm swelled and I had trouble lifting it for days. I was told that's a somewhat normal to the diphtheria vaccine that is in the tetanus shot. I also remember the shot hurting more than the bites and my hands were a mess. I could barely write because my hands were so bandaged!
Good luck. I hope you feel better soon and kitty is off the hook!
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I think this was a heat of the moment thing. Be cautious, but I think they should be fine in the future, but if they get amped up it may be a problem. Separate when you can't monitor.
Is the cat up to date on shots? If so, there shouldn't be a quarantine period since it's your cat, your hand, and your house. You're not going to press charges against yourself.
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I'm a dog walker and some dogs just don't like walking with people that aren't their owners. Do your parents have a yard for potty breaks? If so, have them walk him at varied times and not at his usual times. At his usual walk times, have them just give him a treat on his bed. When he starts getting comfortable with that, put the treat a foot away from him, and then further and further from him. You want him to get rewarded for getting off the bed for awhile and then start adding in the walk every so often. Right now he's associating getting off the bed with walks. Associate it with something else and it will get easier.
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If he's in pain while doing stairs it may just make his fear worse or that could be what you're seeing instead of fear.
What material is the floor on the stairs? If it's slippery, get either carpet treads or cut up a yoga mat for each step for better traction.
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I was watching some greyhounds once and one had a seizure where he tensed up (no screaming) and another dog tried attacking him. Thankfully I was already hugging the seizing dog so he wouldn't fall over and pushed the other did away.
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But, seizing dogs don't make any noise and are also often attacked. All of the dog seizures I've seen, the dogs don't thrash either. They just tense up and maybe twitch a bit.
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It's pretty normal when a dog is injured for other dogs to attack. Just keep them separated when you can't minister them. They will probably still be fine with each under normal circumstances.
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I don't allow it because we leash walk and I don't want them destroying others yards. I say "nope" gently then give a gentle pull of the leash and call them to continue walking/move. It generally works. I wait until they're done before picking up any poop.
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Comfortis is great for flea prevention, but it's a pill. Nexguard, also a pill, covers fleas and ticks and I haven't heard of any problems with it.
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186RTWW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1406866129&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40
I use this type. I also put the whole bag in the container.
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Awwwww. She's a peanut! Sorry about the puzzles, that's not fun.
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I'm so sorry. I'm glad I got a chance to meet him last year.
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My dogs also have the flu vaccine. I hope he feels better soon!
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He's about 31" at the shoulders. He's a big boy, but not huge. I'm short though, so that may make him look taller.
What about some of the dog food puzzles? http://www.chewy.com/dog/busy-buddy-tug-jug-dog-toy/dp/48815?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKEAjwjN2eBRDbyPWl0JLY5lYSJACPo0UiZKOI77AMSpZzs-8Plw08JM_OE-r-PwObvrayz8T3JRoCsOzw_wcB
This one is fun. The rope part needs to be pushed in while upside for the good to come out.
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Every dog is trainable, some just take longer and more work from you. If I were looking for a therapy dog, I'd look for a dog with a good disposition. You can train behaviors, you can't train personality.
I picked Bu because he was pathetic. No really, he was a mess. Sailor was my foster for 5 months, adopted, returned a week later minus his tail (it was an accident), and was also a mess. I couldn't let him go again. He was completely traumatized from the experience. I promised I wouldn't let him go again.
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It really depends how cat keen she is and how hard you work at it. If she truly wants to kill the cat, it's going to be very hard and stressful. It may be a good idea to bring her over to see so e interactions before you commit to see if you can make it work.
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Bu killed it in agility class tonight!! We only did jumps. We were working on distance work and crossovers.
This was our last class until fall because when it's nice class is outside and Bu melts down when we're outside.
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I would add a command whenever she pees or poops in the yard and give her a treat. Once she understands what she's supposed to do, start walking her. On walks, use the commands. Walk until she goes. You may be walking for a long time, but it works. I once walked Bu for 1.5 hours in a snowstorm because he wouldn't go. I threw a party when he finally went and I could feel my face again.
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Things sound good so far. When she looks interested in the cat, call her name, say good or yes when she looks at you and give her pb. Do this every time and eventually she'll look at you looking for pb when the cats interest her.
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There are no set rules. Do whatever works for you. In my opinion though, the more walks the better. It's good for the dogs mental and physical well being. It's also good for you.
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I wouldn't if he gets warm because you won't be there to remove it if he gets too hot. Otherwise I don't think it would be a problem.
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I recommend it. It helps with house training and keeps the dog out of trouble when you can't watch it.
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While there is lots of body language in agility, there are times you need to tell the dog where to go because looking at you could slow them down. Right now our classes are outside and he gets nervous outside like that so he was already a bit of a mess today, but in the middle of our runs he tried to take a nap in the middle if the tunnel 2 different times, which he hasn't done before. After this session we're going to stop classes for awhile, at least until fall when we'll be inside again and he'll be more comfortable.
hopefully if the AC even bothers to contact me they won't do anything, but they found a rabid cat who had kittens in my area a month or so ago. (My cat never goes outside but who knows if the AC people care...) ETA: Thank you, I always trust your advice!
Stubborn, Unmotivated, Or Just Outsmarting Me? Help!
in Training and Behavior discussion
Posted
She's not getting in the car because she doesn't want to leave the fun places you bring her. I'd ask her to jump up once. If she doesn't do it, lift her into the car. She'll learn that either she gets in on her own or you put her in. Either way, she's Lin the car.
As for the training, it sounds like she's not very interesting. The "lazy way" as you put it is called "capturing" the behavior. It's worked well for us. Have you tried using a clicker? What tone of voice are you using? I find these guys really like a happy, really enthusiastic voice while training. Sometimes me being goofy works as a reward for Bu. He joins in and gets wiggly. So, try different things.