3greytjoys
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My most difficult hound to teach "sit" was one of my own (vs. my fosters). He is highly intelligent, but it took me months to get him to trust a human. (He had a questionable past with humans.) The most gentle way I found to teach him to "sit" is the following:
Try to set your hound up for success.
Watch for the hound to walk towards their bed to lie down naturally. (This is easy with Greys! lol)
Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to the hound.
Once hound's rear end touches the ground/bed, you jump in to stand directly in front of the dog's body. Your body is blocking the hound (into a natural sit) while preventing dog from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" and treat the dog, and praise, praise, praise.
Do this every time the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit" in no time!
I reinforce the "sit" command daily by having every hound "sit" before each meal or when they get treats. I've always coupled verbal commands with the appropriate hand-signal in dog training. Some dogs respond to visual signals better than voice.
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I agree that it's absolutely worth enrolling Greyhounds in positive obedience classes for so many reasons!
Whether 2 or 10 years old.. life with an adoptive family is completely different from a retired racer's previous career.
Greys are so eager to learn. Obedience classes help dogs ease smoothly into home life becoming well-mannered, confident, and valued family members.
Greys appreciate learning a clear understanding of our expectations through positive, gentle methods. It reduces behavior problems later.
Greys are highly intelligent beings that benefit from continued brain stimulation, and bonding with their forever people.
They gain socialization beyond their own breed.
Most importantly, we never know if an obedience command taught in class just might save our hound's life in an emergency.
Good obedience instructors teach humans skills they can use forever with that dog and their future dogs.
Another poster mentioned touch target training. Since I don't have a dog door, I decided it would benefit my hounds and me if they would ring a bell on the door leading outside when they need to do business. That little lesson has made our dog/human communication completely clear. Works great!
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I have Bandit back home and resting comfortably. Oddly his breathing sounds pretty good right now
I've been advised to keep walks to early morning or late evening when it's cool, keep the A/C going (thank heavens I got that monster new heat pump last year)
and limit exercise and excitement.
The paralysis is apparently pretty severe on both sides
I don't understand how it could just "give out" like that....one minute fine the next he was coughing and snoring and wheezing.
He had been on amoxicillin, temaril and a bronchodillator (prescribed last week) with the supposition that this was bronchitis or allergic inflammation.
He's now been switched to doxycycline (in case this is a hidden infection or tick bourne illness related inflammation) and prednisone (because he can't tolerate rimadil) to try to get the inflammation down.
Switching from martingale collar to halter now permanently as well to reduce any possible pressure to the larynx area.
If he's still having issues in 2 weeks, I'll have to decide about the surgery. He's in great health other than bad corns and I just can't watch him suffocate. I'll just have to find a payment plan or something because I think this is pretty expensive.
( around 3,000)
But the thought of losing him and knowing in the future that if I'd only spent 3K he'd still be with me is not one I'm willing to have.
Love the old geezer, farts and all
Thanks for the advice on the Yahoo LP forums. I will definitely check them out.
hope this all makes sense, I'm a little flustered, but glad to have him home and resting.
Oh yes, soo glad you mentioned a halter. My hound only wears a harness when outside. She hasn't been able to wear a collars for a long time. Even though my girl is very close to complete paralysis (one side is completely paralyzed, the other side is close to complete paralysis) her breathing sounds quiet and fine when she is at rest. Hopefully, a breathing crisis will not occur. If it happens, an immediate visit to an ER is required.
(If anyone wants to learn what an advanced stage Greyhound breathing attack looks like, PM me. I'll send a link to one I found posted on YouTube.)
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I'm so very sorry to read about Bandit. One of my seniors (9.5 years old) has had progressive LP symptoms for the past couple of years. Sounds like you know the limited options for this diagnosis. I highly recommend finding a "Board Certified" surgeon for this surgery.
Please keep Bandit cool and calm. Please do NOT allow him to run and exercise. It could force him into a breathing crisis. Panting swells the throat more, thus possible suffocation. Soaking his kibble until it's soft may help. I use a slightly raised feeder. Aspirate pneumonia is a risk for LP dogs. Bandit needs to remain as stress free as possible. Bandit might not be able to handle any walks by now. (My hound is close to complete paralysis. I only walk my hound on very slow strolls in cool weather or at night or early morning.)
If you do a "search" on GT for "Laryngeal Paralysis" you will find more information. I highly recommend joining the Laryngeal Paralysis group for dog owners (link below). There is a wealth of specific information from LP owners on that forum that can answer your questions. Many members have chosen surgery and reported results for their dogs. Subscribe: LP-subscribe@yahoogroups.com -or- List owner: LP-owner@yahoogroups.com
Surgery costs vary by region. Unfortunately, my hound is not a good candidate, otherwise I would have done surgery. Good luck, and feel free to PM me if you have more questions.
(BTW, everyone sees "warn status" on their own account but other members don't see it. I don't think you did anything wrong, I think it's mainly for GT administration.)
Edited to add for previous poster: Extra heavy panting (sounds like more of a struggle for oxygen) and a deepening voice are other clues of LP. My hound's bark sounds much more deep and rough as LP has progressed.
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Greyt update for healthy double-digit boy, Frank!
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A slightly different perspective here... As long as the dog is healthy and maintains a fairly stable weight, I don't worry too much as long as they are not too far under ideal body condition, especially if she is a relatively picky eater who doesn't always finish meals. Some dogs just seem to maintain at a somewhat lower than what we consider ideal weight. A dog that is slightly underweight is healthier than one that is slightly overweight.
Now if the dog is losing weight, has any medical problems, or acts hungry and scarfs up all the food put in front of her, that's a different story.
If you think she'll eat it, I would just increase the amount of dry dog food. Or switch (gradually) to a higher quality, higher calorie food. I'm really not a fan of adding in a variety of extras, especially for a picky eater, as I feel that makes them even more picky, and it gets harder and harder to get them to eat.
All above are Excellent points.
Another thought re: a dog that previously had a bad case of worms. A follow-up fecal sometimes helps if only one fecal was returned clear. Some worm egg growth stages aren't caught on one fecal, but can be caught later.
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To be honest IMO it is garbage. IMO GOOD food (e.g those on Whole Dog Journals approved list) and vaccinations (no more tha every 3 years) are teh best money you can ever spend in animal health. It will save you lots of $$$$ over the long run. True the really good food does cost more but I haev found I actually save $$$$ because vet bills are significantly less since there are significantly less problems with dogs getting better food. Just my experience of over 50 years on farms.
Whole Dog Journal does all the challenging food research work for us. They offer such an extensive annual list of "approved foods" that most people can find a healthy dog food within their budget.
WDJ listed Rachael Ray's food as one to avoid that "missed the mark."
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If you're still looking for a healthy food that helps firm up stools, I've had the best luck with California Natural Lamb and Rice (by Natura).
(They also make a chicken and rice, but I don't have as much experience with that flavor.)
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One of my senior fosters had 26 teeth pulled, as I recall most of her bleeding subsided within 1-2 days. Spotty blood with head shaking a little longer. Keeping her quiet in a crate helped. Most other single extractions here have subsided in 1 day. Massive amounts of continuous blood from 1 tooth removal would alert me to call a vet.
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Two main meals of high quality kibble here, plus one smaller kibble bedtime snack. If I skip the bedtime snack, any one of the hounds occasionally vomits bright yellow bile before breakfast. Anyone else have that problem?
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I am so very sorry for your loss of Giselle. Your bond was very special. May your happy memories of her live in your heart forever.
Giselle will be remembered and missed on GT for a long time. May she rest in peace.
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Well, the accidents in the house have come to an end so far-perhaps it had something to do with the food and loose stool problem that has been rectified, maybe not-either way, while he still whines a bit after he realizes we are not home(after his Kong is emptied), he pretty much just settles down on his bed in the living room, or his crate in the bedroom and naps until we get home.
Yea!!! Atta boy, Oberon!!! Thanks for the great update!!!
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I love this boy, I can not begin to explain the depth. He is my baby boy.
You don't have to try to explain.......we know.
Many, many prayers coming your way.
Yes... we understand the depth... (Gulp, we have a special momma and baby too.) Our thoughts and prayers are with you all. We're sending positive strength.
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Just a few comments re: collars:
If tags are attached to a Martingale "D-ring" (where a leash gets clipped on), please move tags to a side piece of hardware that won't choke the dog's neck (as easily) if the tags get caught on something.
For any newbie readers:
It's usually safer to have a separate ID collar (without a D-ring) for dogs to wear 24/7.
Dog's name and phone# is embroidered into the collar itself.
Reasons for separate ID Collar (without a ring):
Less chance the dog will hang him/herself from a D-ring catching on something.
Better chance for a phone number to be seen from a distance, if a loose dog can't be caught (to read a small tag).
These ID collars are available with reflective tape for better night visibility.
When multiple dogs are playing together in a fenced enclosure (even during safe muzzled play dates):
If a dog is wearing a separate ID collar, the Martingale collar can be removed for safer play.
During play, another dog can easily catch a tooth, collar, or paw on a D-ring and suffer serious injury.
ID Collar Tips:
Many people have their cell number on an ID collar.
(If their dog gets loose, they are usually out searching for their dog, not waiting at home by the phone.)
If your ID collar comes with a D-ring, please cut it off.
(It's too easy to clip a leash to the wrong ring, then have a Greyhound back out of the collar!)
The Martingale collar with D-ring should always be used when a Greyhound is being walked outside with a leash.
IMO: Once inside the home, a Martingale collar should be removed (for convenience, the leash can remain attached for the next walk).
Your hound will still be safe wearing his/her separate ID collar (reflective or not) 24/7.
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So, for the past seven years I've had more hounds pass through my doors than I could ever count. My most recent addition, Duke, is VERY vocal, to me and only me. He basically tells me every time he needs/wants anything, at least I think that's what he's telling me/
I've never had a hound try to talk to me like this. I'll try to post a link to a video. I'm curious, how do you see it? The pinning of the other hound against the wall is actually VERY out of character for him, so try to ignore that.
Sounds like your child knows exactly what's going on with him! lol...
Yep, he's certainly a cute and communicative boy... happily wagging that lovely, long tail. Makes me wonder if that door (to his right) leads to outside walks/play, his food, or maybe even a fun car ride. He makes sure his presence and happy retirement is well known in the household!
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Woo hoo!!!! Gooood boy!!! Greyt news!!!!! Awww, what a joyful boy that his daddy really did return home to him!
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OK, I just tried peanut butter in the Kong I got, left him in the living room, and was able to go outside for five minutes-when I came back in and checked the video, he was was still nomming on it while I came in and never paid attention as to when I left or came back...not sure what he might do when the peanut butter runs out or if I should give it to him in the crate, but it looks like it's going in the right direction!
Yea!!! This is fabulous news.... He can be fully distracted while you are out of the house!!!
Remember to pick up the Kong when you return. The goal is for him to LOVE that treat SO MUCH that he looks FORWARD to you leaving, so he gets his super high value treat! (Like a teenager loves it when parents leave the house.) Yes, Kong inside the crate should help him feel better about his crate time. If your school/work schedule allows, best to do that in brief increments too. The other poster is right, if you have the time to do this alone training in small increments to stay ahead of his discomfort, that's ideal. Every dog responds differently so your idea of trying limited dog-safe room space to include his open crate is okay. While you're home, try closing his crate door while he's eating. Other times, when he's resting in his crate, quietly close the crate door while you watch TV or study (for brief times) so he doesn't associate it with being left. Reward good behavior by tossing him a special treat when he is being relaxed and quiet in the closed door crate. He clearly feels safe in the crate (open door) so it's good expand on that. Some dogs do well in an ex-pen, but a comfortable hound in either crate or ex-pen can make life much easier for many reasons: when visitors with young children visit; visiting other people's homes; for weekend or longer travel; attending all day events, etc.. Freezing a fully stuffed Kong will last longer (room temperature is good to develop initial interest = higher scent and ease of licking at room temp.). You can also mix his kibble with peanut butter to help fill it up more before freezing. There are a host of things that can be placed in a Kong. Remember to wash Kong thoroughly with soap and warm water (and bottle brush) every day so bacteria doesn't build-up.
Your adoption group should be able to help get a muzzle to you, if not, you can order one on-line. They come in handy in many cases, it's good to have one for him. (I need to muzzle 2 of my hounds for toenail clipping/dremeling; doctoring paw injuries; preventing licking injuries. All hounds get muzzled for playdates with other muzzled hounds, meeting new dog visitors, etc.)
Greyt job with your Kong alone training this morning!
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So, we went and bought a crate, and a Kong for him and peanut butter to put in it for him when we aren't home. We have a bone filled with peanut butter that we bought at the pet store, is that an option as well?(someone suggested bacon flavored Nylabones too, sorry if I forgot the name, I'm horrible with names). Guinness never cared for filled bones or Kongs and, I'm not sure if the bone would be bad for Oberon, or if it's perfectly fine.
It probably depends on the type of natural bone. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable leaving a natural bone with an unsupervised dog. Some natural bones can splinter, and bones should be taken away from the dog when they get too small. (BTW, a veterinarian taught our first aid group that natural bones with fat or marrow should be avoided, they frequently cause diarrhea.)
All my hounds' favorite Nylabone is the "Dura-Chew" (fist shape), "Souper" size, available in bacon, liver, or chicken flavor. Any of the non-edible, hard Nylabones are quite safe.
(Peanut butter can also be iced on part of a Nylabone, if needed to encourage greater interest.)
http://www.nylabone.com/product-finder/by-product-type/dura-chew-bone-original.htm
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Until you get a crate... If he's going for the wall or wood trim, "Bitter Yuck" spray may help (if liquid-based product doesn't harm your paint). Assuming he arrived with a turn-out muzzle, that should help save your wall. Please do a quick safety check of the room to make sure the muzzle won't catch on anything.
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Sometimes when a dog is a bit uncomfortable with being alone, especially during transition, they can't hold their urine and bowel as well as other times. Soft serve or diarrhea is common in any new environment (even a day visit to a dog event). I always have a fecal test done for a new hound to check for worms, giardia, etc. and I look at their stool for anything moving during the first week or two. If one fecal is clear, something undetectable could be brewing in an early stage. Good idea to have a follow-up fecal, especially if stool remains too soft for too long.
Oberon might do fine baby-gated in one room since he's lived in homes before. Personally, that's a "graduation" for hounds here. I use crates for a new hound, especially one with a potty accident history. I feed the new hound in a closed-door crate to help them view it as their safe and happy place. (Lots of praise helps, too.) After mealtime outside potty success, I leave the crate door open most of the time while I'm home, so the hound can wander in on his own. Good to close the door part-time when someone is home so he doesn't associate being left alone every time the crate door closes. (Hound always gets a treat if I need to put him in the crate.) Most mature hounds graduate out of the closed-door crate fairly quickly after they've become comfortable in a new home. I never ever put a dog in a crate for punishment.
Now, I happen to have 6 regular dog beds, plus 2 open-door crates in the room where we spend most of our time. There is almost always a hound in both crates because some prefer the warm, cave-like feeling of a crate, especially in winter. There's heck to pay if another hound is in my senior boy's favorite crate. He comes to get me, I'm supposed follow him, and then "we" ask the other hound to move out of his crate. One of my girls runs into her crate (from across the room) and "sits" to wait for her bowl at mealtime. She's adorable. During hot weather, they like to stretch out a little more on the regular dog beds.
Baby-gate tip with cats: I install my baby-gates about 5"- 6" above floor level, so cats always have an easy escape route.
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Yeah, I think a week is plenty for the initial settling in. Keep in mind, you should also include time to transition into what you'd consider your normal schedule as part of this. (Do a search for "alone training"). Whenever I took in a new foster dog, I'd roughly follow a schedule like this:
Saturday: Hanging around the dog the whole time. But pretty hands off, the dog is going to need things calm so it can settle in. The majority of my interactions here is to take the dog out to pee, a lot, to the spot where I want to go potty (and praise when it does).
Sunday: Start doing the alone training, but to the extent of leaving only a few minutes at a time. By the end of the day, maybe we'll get to 15 - 20 minutes.
Monday: I'll start extending the away time to 30 minutes. An hour... see how the dog does.
Tuesday: If the alone training is going ok, I'll usually leave for half a day.
Wednesday: If everything went ok, I'll go for the full work day.
Most of the dogs I've had have done well with this. Sometimes you'll need to take a few steps back and this process might take a little longer. But you can see a week should normally be plenty. The other key piece of advice I'd give is to get into your routine as soon as possible. So if you'll be feeding at a certain time, always do that. And always do things in the same order - so if it's always - out for a pee break, then eat, then long walk, do that all the time. The quicker your dog figures out how things work, the quicker it'll start feeling confident and content.
Good luck!
I wholeheartedly agree with alone training, especially since one of you will be home with your new hound for a week. Early on, your new hound will greatly benefit learning that humans can leave their sight briefly and they always return, even going to another part of the house or outside for a few minutes.
To elaborate on a helpful house training tip: Whenever a new Greyhound arrives here... I don't let them have full run of the house for several days/week. They are limited to 1-2 rooms (with the family) and watched closely. It's normal for any dog to need to do business more frequently than usual the first couple of days in a new environment.
Day 1 - I give the new hound an opportunity to do business every 1-2 hours (during normal waking hours). I watch them and praise, praise, praise whenever hound goes potty.
Day 2 - I let them out briefly every 2 hours during waking hours. (If they don't potty within 5 minutes or so, I bring them back inside. Potty time is different from play time.)
Day 3 - I let them out every 2-3 hours, and so on...
They may not always do business during every brief outing during the first 2-3 days, but they begin to get a very clear idea of where they are expected to potty. It's more common that a potty accident is a human's error for not paying close enough attention to the dog's potty needs. Sometimes a hound gives cues, but they've never needed to learn to do that before in a kennel (pacing, asking for attention, standing up to look at you from their bed, standing by a door, or whining, etc.).
Their most important potty times: First thing in AM and last thing before bed, 10-15 minutes after meals, and few times throughout the day/evening.
Last tip: I teach 2 separate words for dog "business." If you don't have a dog door, when you're in a big hurry, you will appreciate your dog understanding that you are waiting for them to go "pee pee" or whatever.
I agree that a week is a good amount of time for a new hound (and is longer than many people have). Have fun, and enjoy watching your new hound blossom into family life! Greyhounds are the best ever!
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Congratulations!!!!
Awww, he's a very handsome boy!! What a bonus to have those beautiful teeth and gums. Is he fairly young(?). Hope you enjoy helping him blossom into a wonderful retired life....
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One of my hounds started limping on a walk as we were crossing a short section of rough asphalt. I immediately stopped to wipe off the surface of his pads. I wiped off some dust and debris. We still had a 20 minute walk back to the car. Once home, I thoroughly washed and wiped off his pads. He appeared better, but limped intermittently on hard surfaces. After taking him to the vet several times over weeks, and later doing Epsom Salt paw soaks at home (too late), vet finally decided to do surgical exploration. Vet discovered teeny bits of gravel that had embedded and travelled deeply inside the pad. I was surprised that type of debris could get pushed so deeply into the pad during one walk, and that we couldn't see it the same day. Since then, I've spotted other problems quickly by magnifying a digital picture of wet pads that I may not have caught early otherwise. Earlier Epsom Salt soaks might have helped too.
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I've had excellent luck with Tuffie Toys. They are rated on a "toughness scale." The Mega series #10 is most durable. My current Greyhounds are fine with Ultimate #9, or the larger Mega #10. Several years ago, I had one highly destructive dog that tore up everything within reach... except these Tuffie Toys. I still have the same old ones, and I've added new shapes to our collection. They all still squeak, too!
http://www.tuffietoys.com/page/398259450 (If link doesn't work, just try searching: Tuffie Toys)
Yay!
Thanks for keeping us posted...
Teaching Legs To Sit
in Training and Behavior discussion
Posted
Many dogs will lie "down" when they want desperately to please you, but they don't yet understand the physical response to your request. (They can only do what they know how to do.)
Days after he thoroughly understands the "sit" command. I'd work to separate and retrain him to understand that "down" means something different.
BTW, re: "sit:" I've had a number of hounds that do a side sit vs. a straight sit. This is fine as far as I'm concerned considering a Greyhound's body design. Many times they will eventually do a straight sit on their own if it's comfortable for them. Other hounds I teach a straight sit from the start. Greys learn differently than most breeds. Adapting with gentle, positive training is soo important with Greys.