3greytjoys
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Try not to worry. Hopefully it's something simple. If he's limping on hard surfaces, something is hurting him. I completely agree with the vet about letting him rest. Otherwise, forcing him to keep up his normal walking routine could compound the problem making him lame even longer, whether injured from the fall, foreign body, or corn. For now, after gently feeling the paw and between the toes for any abnormality, I would try the following... When I suspect a foreign body in a paw pad, or a possible corn that I can't see: I wet the paw with water, and take a digital close-up picture (on macro/flower mode). It can be loaded on a computer to zoom/magnify on a larger screen. (This is also good way to see the pad of any dog that is resistant to paws being touched/examined.)
You've probably seen this corn link, but if not it's worth a look: http://www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/corns.htm
Good luck, and please keep your vet posted. I'm sure others here will have other helpful suggestions.
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I'm so glad Mork sailed through his tie-back surgery so well.
That first night sounds like it was challenging on Mork, and on you. I'm happy to see him roaching comfortably in his recovery. I assume you already know about the following LP group for owners of dogs (all breeds) with Laryngeal Paralysis: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/LP/
My LP hound is not a good candidate for tie-back surgery, but thankfully, she's still doing okay in her calm and cool environment, and slow strolls in cool temperatures.
How long did Mork show signs of LP?
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When comparing price, remember to compare calories per cup. Many foods that appear cheaper (sticker price) have a lower nutrient bang per cup; meaning it takes more cups to feed the dog -- so you could wind up spending the same or more money overall.
Example:
A dry food considered fairly "healthy" at a warehouse store was about 350 calories per cup, vs. a different healthy dog food jam packed with over 500+ healthy calories per cup. The 500+ calorie bag will last longer.
If anyone is to take any heed from that quote then perhaps the "healthy" warehouse food should be identified.
Costco, Sams and BJ's have lots of foods and a "healthy" monikor is pretty much up to what the owner deems as healthy, isn't it? As far as jam packing the most amount of "healthy" calories into a cup you can often end of getting an overhyped costly rich food that doesn't agree with a lot of dogs -- especially greyhounds where rich high calorie foods can lead to massive big D.
(ingredients not from China)Exactly how do you find out that none of the ingredients in your kibble don't come from China? Seriously.
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My suggestion was simply to remember to consider caloric value (along with quality ingredients) when comparing costs of dog foods. My example was to provide a range of caloric values available in like foods. I wasn't recommending any food over another. By "fairly healthy," I meant a good quality well-balanced food without cheap fillers (like corn). Since the question arose, the food which I noticed most recently at a warehouse is called Dog's Well - Vitality. Calories per cup: 350. I just happened to be comparing generally balanced foods with chicken as the highest protein ingredient (not grain free, or otherwise rich ingredients). Just comparing "apples to apples" so to speak.
A call to the dog food manufacturer's customer service department can reveal if their ingredients come from USA, or elsewhere.
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When comparing price, and healthy ingredient content (ingredients not from China), remember to compare calories per cup. Many foods that appear cheaper (sticker price) have a lower nutrient bang per cup; meaning it takes more cups to feed the dog -- so you could wind up spending the same or more money overall.
Example:
A dry food considered fairly "healthy" at a warehouse store was about 350 calories per cup, vs. a different healthy dog food jam packed with over 500+ healthy calories per cup. The 500+ calorie bag will last longer.
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I'm a new grey mommy of 4mos. Her stool came back positive for hookworm. Vet prescribed Panacur for 3 days, wait 2 weeks, then Panacur for 3 days again. I have 2 questions:
1. What is the best way to prevent this from happening again. From researching, I know it's pretty hard to prevent. Raina is indoor at all times and only goes out for her walks. She is never left alone. My hubby and I always try to walk her in a place where other dogs don't go but i know it's pretty much impossible to prevent her from stepping on another dog's feces even though we always watch where she steps. Each and every time she enters the house from walking outdoors, we have a bowl of warm water with soap that we use to wash her paws. (If you can't tell, I'm really anal about dirt and germs, so this whole worm this is really grossing me out since she's with us in the house all the time).
2. Is there a cheaper way to get the medication? It was $106 dollars from my vet and I don't want to pay that much everytime she has to be dewormed.
It is common for newly retired hounds to arrive with worms. Treating hookworms with the veterinary prescribed meds is very important. Some vet's charge less of an upcharge, so you might try calling around for prices, if more medication is needed. Hopefully, once you knock out this hookworm infestation, there won't be a next time for the heavier duty expensive stuff. Many heartworm preventatives have just enough medication to prevent future infestations.
Watch your vet's recommended timing carefully so you're treating the hooks during their specific growth stages. Hopefully, the Panacur will begin killing them off quickly.
Definitely be very thorough when picking up after her outside. (Since they frequently have softer stools, I've heard of other people dropping a piece of newspaper or paper plate down for their hound's target - to make clean up so much easier.)
Hookworms prefer to live and reproduce in moist areas, shade is their preference, and they can live outside for months.
The house isn't a problem because it's too dry. Bedding is not a problem because they won't survive the washer/dryer process.
The most important thing is to thoroughly clean up her own feces - even scraping up a little dirt, leaves or bark with her poop for disposal (for her sake and to protect your neighbor's non-infected dogs).
A Clorox dilution is about the only thing I know of that will kill hookworms, but it isn't environmentally friendly.
I've covered my hounds business area with "tumbled playground bark." It's small, and cheap enough to pick up the bark along with the poop for instant disposal. (NEVER use cocoa mulch, it's highly toxic (fatal) to dogs.) This "tumbled playground bark" system has worked great for me. My own hounds have never picked up hookworms (or any other worms) from infected foster dogs that have pooped in this area. (I do follow dogs outside to pick up feces immediately .) Just so you don't worry aboout your girl too much.. My hounds have never picked up worms (or any other problems) from parks, etc., but I do clean their paws off when we get home.
BTW, for any pet medications prescribed by your vet that are "human" meds, Costco's pharmacy is a great source, if you have one in your town. Beware of ordering pet medications on-line. It's hard to know what you're getting, if they've been stored properly, etc.
Good luck, and try not to worry. Glad you found out. I bet she'll feel so much better after the worms are gone, and you will too!
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If it's not bleeding, it can wait until tomorrow. A small tear can become bigger on a Greyhound (thin skin). It' looks like it could be a little deep(?). (Maybe from another dog's tooth(?).) If so, it might need a stitch or two. I'd be on the safe side and have it seen by a vet on a non-emergency appt. I'd pour Hydrogen Peroxide over it, then antibiotic ointment. Tough place to bandage. As others mentioned, a loose but gathered Tee-shirt helps. A muzzle might help from your hound licking off the ointment. If you have to use duct tape (as mentioned previously) just tape the lower half, but stop at the base of the nose, leaving plenty of open air access for breathing.
Greys are so sensitive, many don't do too well in boarding facilities. Great if you can make other Greyhound friends locally, and offer to watch each other's hounds during trips.
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I live on a dirt road fhat is under 3 feet of snow. I hope to get plowed out tomorrow. Suds ripped a hunk of skin off his leg on Sunday but had cleaned it up himself by the time I saw it . I have been cleaning it and keeping an eye on it since he licks it every time he comes in from the snow. This morning it was looking pretty good... Drying up and closing.
I was just getting a dry change of clothes to go back outside and feed the big critters. Suds jumped up on the bed next to me with blood running down his leg. When I reached for him he took off into the- living room. I found a trail of blood ( and some big globs) through the living room and dining room. It looks like he just ripped more skin off the original injury and opened everything up again. Lots of blood always looks like even more on a white dog! He is all wrapped up now ... antibiotic gel/ Telfa/pad/ gauze/ vet wrap/ baby sock and more vet wrap.
Hope he keeps it on. I may still end up at the vet if it gets worse and he may need antibiotics. No way we could get there with all this snow so I told Suds to leave it alone till we get plowed out. Hope he listens!
Be a good boy, Suds... Just a thought: Maybe a muzzle would help if he won't leave his bandage alone.
I'm so sorry for all of you (humans and hounds) having to deal with the heavy blizzard and aftermath. Particularly scary in medical situations. Many of us along the West Coast are still being pounded with heavy rains (snow in the mountains), but your story makes us appreciate that most of us can still see the ground!
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If you haven't had a chance yet, please do contact your adoption coordinator/s ASAP to let them know about your girl. My guess is that they would be an excellent local support, and they should know about her new behavior.
I understand how stressful this must be for you. Please try to relax. Greyhounds are very sensitive and they pick up on our stress. It compounds problems. Virtually everything to do with a Greyhound should be gentle and positive. Please do try a harness for her (maybe your adoption group would loan you one to try for a couple of days?). If she has an accident in the house, please don't punish her for it. She is already in fear or pain so that would only make things worse right now.
In addition to the previous posts re: letting her approach you, or approaching her from the side/back, not looking at her directly in the eye, etc.
Pet her shoulder/side vs. her head, until she feels more comfortable.
While in a low position, turn the front of your body away from her, and don't bend over her. Dogs consider bending over them a threatening position.
Try thinking in terms of slow movements, and being very, very gentle with her.
Calm and quiet voices will help her feel more secure. (Dogs have super keen hearing.)
Rebuilding trust is very important now.
Please tell your adoption coordinator and your vet if there is anything else you can think of that happened around the time her behavior started changing. Besides her physical exam, please take a look around outside to make sure there is nothing hurting her (sharp rocks/gravel, loud machinery, etc.). Be careful walking her through parking lots - avoid auto fluids that drip from cars (chemical burns/toxins). I agree about not pushing her to walk if she doesn't want to now. Hopefully, with a harness, she will allow you to just take her outside to go potty for now. Please call your adoption group ASAP. Let us know how she progresses, or if you need more suggestions. Good luck...
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Nylabones for extra large dogs are loved in this house! Appealing flavors (impregnated into the material); great to help keep teeth cleaner; and the hard Nylabones last a long time. (Well worth the price.) My hound chewers love the bacon flavored Nylabones. The fist shape seems easier for them to hold upright with their paws. Nylabone has a new "turkey leg" shape, which looks even better! Nylabone flavors have come a long way over the years. They are much more appealing to dogs these days. If a hound is slow to show interest, a little peanut butter smeared on one side should help. http://www.nylabone.com/product-finder/my-dog-is/dog-large/finder-x-large.htm
Nylabones (hard) are much safer than rawhide (IMO).
(Rawhide should not be offered when dog is not being supervised, and many vets alert people to take rawhide away when it gets soft so it doesn't cause choking or internal blockages.)
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Great! I'm happy to read all the dogs are feeling well again! Thanks for letting us know.
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We live in a townhome with no yard so we take her out 4 times a day on a schedule. When it first rained she was scared but eventually got over it. She doesn't like the rain and wind but we never had this much of a problem getting her to go out ever.
The only thing that's changed is that for the past two weeks we've been training her to wear thera paw shoes. She is clearly not happy with them on but I thought she was getting used to them. At first she wouldn't move at all with them on. Then she reluctantly began to walk. She's not her usual bounce happy self when she has the boots on but she still does her business with them on. I only put the shoes on when we take her to relieve herself on the grass. I've checked her paws right after to make sure nothing was cutting or rubbing her. I wonder if she's started to associate putting her collar on with having to go out with the shoes on. Do I just keep at it with the shoe training? Our carpet is white in our house.
What should healthy paw pads look like? She's an ex racer but was retired at 2 1/2 yrs old. I didn't see any record of injury in her records.
Thanks formally the advice.
Sounds like your pup may be in pain, or fearing pain on walks. Like you mentioned, she probably is associating the collar with the booties. I would forget the boots until you discover the cause of the problem. (I've had a few boot soreness issues with short- term use on my hounds, even from wonderful Therapaws.) Any boot can cause soreness that you may not see under fur (until it's rubbed raw), including near the strap area. Later, a padded wrap or sock might help but I wouldn't push her into boots now. It could make things worse, and it's important for her to enjoy going outside, especially in your townhome situation.
How long are your walks? When walking on hard sidewalks or roads, newly retired racers do better beginning with very short walks (5-10 minutes), very gradually building up to longer walks (30 minutes or more) over several weeks/months. Their paws are very soft and need to build toughness very slowly as they adjust to city life (like a child going barefoot in early spring). Their soft paws can wear down very easily at first. If the paws get too raw, it becomes very painful and takes a long time to heal. Is she walking tender-footed inside the house?
Re: Your white carpets: It only takes seconds to wipe paws with a damp paper towel (or rinse paws with a water bottle), then dry with a towel (or paper towel) before entering the house. Cheap runner rugs (or thick, clear plastic runners - sometimes seen in model homes) covering your indoor high traffic areas would help keep your carpet clean. Most home improvement stores carry runner rugs, rolls of runner carpet, or washable carpet squares. A cheap rug grip helps keeps it in place. The clear plastic textured runners are available with a sticky back. (We take a long white rubberized tarp ($15.00 Home Depot) up to the mountains when visiting a friend's house with all our hounds.)
Please keep us posted... there are many other possibilities for a cause, and other solutions. The adoption representative who did your home visit may have an idea. A vet check may be in order if you can't figure out what could be wrong. She's definitely trying her best to communicate something to you.
Just in case... Here are pictures of Greyhound Corns: http://grassmereanim...l.com/corns.htm
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A black light could help indicate whether the spots are urine. If you find another wet spot that is still very wet, a dry, white paper towel could absorb fluid. You could do a color check to see if it's yellow (urine).
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After the vet checkup and tests, it might be an interesting test to foster again (if you're able). Then, watch her appetite and emotional state.
One of my girls sounds much like your Diana, very thin and muscular (same age), but my girl has always been a very low eater. Vets have found nothing wrong medically, so I suppose my girl's eating issues are emotionally related. I went through years of begging her to eat anything/everything. She is much more sensitive than our other Greyhounds. She's not the least bit shy with humans or hounds, but she's always been the omega - back of the pack (even in the presence of new foster hounds). She waits until the other hounds finish their meals (all are at different feeding stations out of sight) and they return to their beds in another room. Only then will she enter the kitchen (if she's in the mood to check her bowl, but toys are her preference). She usually runs away from food at every meal. My best bet is trying again just before bedtime. That is usually her first (and only) semi-full meal of the day. (The other hounds eat their first meal in the AM.) This girl happens to have extreme separation anxiety (human focused). Her SA has improved now, but it's still a struggle for her.
Bottom line, if Diana's health check is great, it wouldn't surprise me if your girl's low appetite is a reflection of her emotional loss of living with another Greyhound.
I am very sorry for your loss of Diana's brother last spring.
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Bird seed can make dogs very sick. Bacteria and mold build up very quickly in seed once it gets moist and/or drops to the ground. (Can make birds sick, too.)
If all dogs are back to normal, great. If any dogs are still vomiting or lethargic, a call or visit to your vet may be in order. If any dogs continue to vomit, try to note the color, contents, and time they get sick. It's definitely a concern when all your dogs are sick at once. I assume you didn't find any dead animals in the yard in which the dogs were taking an interest (rats that could have eaten poison, downed birds, etc.).
Good luck!
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Instead of waiting for your next visit to learn the specific type of cancer, another option is to call your vet's office for a refresher of the exact cancer name. The front office might be willing to clarify it verbally, scan/email, or FAX that page of medical notes written by your vet. Understandably, a shocking veterinary visit like this is tough to fully absorb. We can help more knowing that information. Our thoughts are with you and your Greyhound.
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Re: "Thank you for all the information. I am currently trying to get in touch with Dr. Couto. You mentioned that your girl was diagnosed 16 weeks ago with hemangio. Did you choose surgery? Was it confirmed through pathology? I'm curious because everything I've read if 1 day to 1 month without surgery and 1 -3 months with surgery. Ave's been pretty good for the last week so I'm just trying to get my mind around what to expect.
Answer: Yes, my girl's hemangiosarcoma was confirmed through pathology. I think we caught the first small mass very early (earlier than many cases). The regular vet was able to remove most of the mass but could not get clear margins. It was in a tricky location (lower front leg) buried in a web of blood vessels, arteries, tendons. It would have taken more surgery to attempt to gain clear margins on that site. The vet assured me that since it's a blood cancer, it was already traveling through her body through blood vessels. Per my consultation with a Board Certified Surgeon: Considering her "3 strikes" with hemangiosarcoma, advanced laryngeal paralysis, and being one of a limited percentage of "excessive bleeders," we opted to forgo any additional surgery. Since then, we discovered a larger mass on her rear. There is likely much more going on with her internal organs that we can't see/feel. Thankfully, she does NOT appear to be in pain from the cancer, now. We're watching closely for her comfortable quality of life for her remaining time.
The vet did not offer any "expected" life span, as every dog's cancer stage is different. Like you, my research revealed some "average" time estimates. Believe me, we celebrated reaching Day 90! My girl still shows delightful spirit, plays with her toys, siblings, and eats well, but her energy diminishes very quickly. (Similar to advancing cancer in people.) Seems many people don't even realize their dog has hemangiosarcoma until a mass bursts. I understand and share these extremely agonizing decisions... You and Avalanche are in my thoughts, and I'm here if I can help in any way.
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Aminocaproic Acid is used for many of our hounds, even for small surgeries. (Also used for human patients.) I echo the other poster's suggestion to contact Dr. Couto, or his organization at Ohio State. I'm not a veterinarian, but from what I've learned thus far, I will not face another of any of my hounds' surgeries without Aminocaproic Acid. It's a cheap bit of insurance that could potentially save a life. I've only given it for limited durations (5 days post-op). I have no information re: long term use for a case like yours. Dr. Couto would be the best source to answer that question. Aminocaproic Acid is mentioned in both articles below:
Why Do Greyhounds Bleed (Ohio State University)
https://greyhound.os...eders/index.cfm
Bone Cancer in Greyhounds (Ohio State University)
https://greyhound.osu.edu/resources/freeresources/bonecancer/index.cfm
(If links don't work, copy and paste title to search Internet.)
Aminocaproic Acid in a liquid compounded form is cheapest to purchase, but has a short shelf life. Should be ordered in advance. Some compounding pharmacies take 3-5 days to fill a prescription.
Aminocaproic Acid is available in tablet form, with longer shelf life. Tablet form is much more expensive. (I don't know which works better, in general, liquids usually work more quickly.)
I am currently caring for my hound with Hemangiosarcoma. My wonderful broodie girl was diagnosed 16 weeks ago. She is a known excessive bleeder. She bled very heavily during minor surgery to remove 3 tiny masses. The vet was finally able to stop her bleeding. My girl came home to recover, then began internal bleeding about 30 hours post-op without any Aminocaproic Acid available. (Bleeding anytime within 4 days post-op can be common in Greys who are "excessive bleeders.") Bleeding finally stopped without Aminocaproic Acid, but I was a wreck since her internal bleeding started at night, after compounding pharmacies were closed. (This particular time, with much effort, I couldn't get AA before surgery.)
I started a thread on August 19, 2010 that you might be interested in skimming through: "Laryngeal Paralysis And Hemangiosarcoma". Since my girl's diagnosis, we've been very fortunate to reach a few special dates together, the next is her 9th birthday (in 9 days). The colder weather has helped her breathing greatly from her laryngeal paralysis (which I've read, happens often in cancer patients). Every moment with our babies is a gift.
Good luck with Avalanche... You're both in our thoughts.
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Oh my gosh, I am sooo very sorry about both of your losses of your beloved fur babies. (I can hardly see through tears as I imagine your overwhelming sadness...)
May your special memories, and time help heal your hearts.
Our deepest sympathy...
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"Would a greyhound be able to smash through a baby gate? Would they even try? I know Tasha is plenty strong enough to break through one, is the visual barrier enough to stop a greyhound from passing?"
It's certainly possible, but none of my pups or fosters have crashed through a tall baby gate. Gates DO need to be installed tightly, and checked periodically to secure if needed(one of my pups gets excited and places her paws on top of the baby gate). Usually, a tall baby gate barrier is all most low prey hounds need, and most are fine seeing moving critters on the other side of the gate. (My baby gate is 36" tall. Installed 6" off the floor for cat escape = total 42" tall. Taller gates are made, too.)
A few clues re: prey drive with indoor cats: If when hound is called, the hound won't unlock her vision and look away from a non-moving cat, or hound won't leave the gate area when you call her because she's staring, salivating, and licking her lips over the thought of eating the cat, then you'll know her prey drive is stronger. Then careful management becomes more important, and the adoption group should be contacted for more help.
From what you've written, your hound sounds fine, just more like she wants to chase/play with the cats, but it should still be strongly discouraged. Most hounds deemed "cat-friendly" will become desensitized to a cat in a new home more and more every day / week / month as they see the cat/s living normally (while under your supervision). Many hounds are fine to leave in the house, unmuzzled with cats after they've adjusted well and proven their trustworthiness. For my own hounds, a baby gate is my friend.
Greys are faster than cats, even in play mode.Always remember that outside cats = game on!
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To clarify re: Separation Anxiety - Newly adopted dogs frequently want to shadow their people, especially in a new environment. That's normal. That does not mean they have full blown SA. Either way, it's a good idea to create short breaks of separation from the dog (bathroom breaks, showers, short run to the store, etc.) each day so the dog builds her/his own confidence and independence by seeing that their humans always return.
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"She doesn't seem really interested in many toys, but she LOVES to fetch the tennis ball for us when we throw it for her outside."
If you're sold on tennis balls, you might consider a larger than standard size tennis ball for tossing under supervision. (Greys mouths are large, if a large-mouth dog catches a small ball (including a standard size tennis ball), it can cause a blocking/choking hazard. Idol chewing and ingesting of tennis balls parts has caused many blockages/deaths.
By all means, exercise is great for hounds, and you're lucky to have a fetcher! Have fun and enjoy your new girl... She will adjust and relax in no time... She'll change so much in 3 weeks, 3 months, and for years thereafter. You'll probably wonder how you ever lived without her!
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My boy (now a senior) has never had an accident in my house, or in hotels. He did mark in his foster dad's house the first day, even though he had a dog door. (Foster dad did have other dogs, so marking is understandable for a new boy entering the home.) Immediately thereafter, foster dad leashed and attached him to his waist. He was able to catch him immediately when he tried to mark the next time. A sharp "NO" in foster dad's deep voice, and rushing him outside was all it took to stop that behavior for him. (After I adopted him, I discovered that he listened to me much more seriously if I tried to lower my voice similar to a man's voice. His trainers were clearly men, and he listened to his trainers.)
Our walks are more like fast "power walks" for exercise, and to reduce marking behavior. My boy (and girls) would love to stop to mark every 5 seconds if I let them, but I have certain places that I stop to let all the hounds do their business. Respectfully, I try to avoid my neighbors' lawns by selecting more appropriate stopping points at the ends of streets. I ask my hounds do their business in our own backyard before we begin a walk, and again when we return home.
Belly bands are simply like a diaper to protect furnishings, but will not do anything to stop the root behavior (as far as I know).
I know the waist leash idea would be difficult if your boy is only marking indoors once a week. Good luck.
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Cats:
Multi-Greyhound household here with 2 cats (3 originally who have since passed from old age.) I've worked with cat-friendly, cat-workable, and non-cat hounds. Many, many hounds are great with cats, just remember there are no 100% guarantees with any animals. It can easily be done with a little careful management, especially at the beginning. Please don't take chances with your cats.
I'd be careful to muzzle Tasha whenever she has access to your cats (for however long it takes her to respond to a strong "NO" if she tries to run after them). You will know if a leash is needed to keep her back from cats, but she sounds much more cat-friendly, especially if she's not charging after them aggressively with dinner in mind.
Make sure Tasha sees you frequently sitting with each cat, holding, petting, talking sweetly to the cat so she gets the idea that they are valued family members.
A tall baby-gate installed about 6" up from the floor level allows cats an escape from hounds. This also allows young cats to run/play/bounce off walls in the other side of the house without living in fear.
Cats should be able to eat, sleep, and potty in a safe zone.
I have my cat's favorite bedroom/fun room gated. (A closet door left ajar with access to a high shelf can be another escape route, if the hound can't open the door.)
Caution: Even a muzzled hound in "play" mode can harm a cat with it's legs and paws.
For my cats' safety, my hounds don't get soft, furry, squishy toys in small animal shapes, nor do I use a lure pole for Greyhounds (which can encourage a hound's prey chasing instinct). I'm sure there are many great toys for hounds living with cats, but I like "Tuffie Toys" which are shaped like doughnuts, etc. They are safer than soft, stuffed toys, and designed on a "toughness scale." Our Greyhounds' favorite size/weight Tuffies: "Ultimate" series, 9 toughness. http://www.tuffietoy...ultimate-series
Please keep the litterbox out of hound's reach. Greys sometimes think of a litter box as a dessert plate.
Cat toys should be out of Greyhound's reach!
My cat toys in Greyhound rooms are wadded up balls of thin or shredded paper. If the hounds get one, they usually just shred the paper (since many hounds had shredded paper as bedding in their racing kennels. (Intestinal blockage problems can occur from small cat toys, even a large chewed up tennis ball, etc.)
Separation Anxiety (just a few tips):
Keeping Tasha baby-gated will help her learn that she will live when mom/dad leave the room for second/minutes without her.
Don't allow her to velcro herself to either of you when inside the house.
Feed all her meals in her crate with the door closed. Start with just meal time with closed crate, slowly advance to a little longer waiting times after her meal before you open the crate door (all while your are still in the room/home). Eventually, she will probably start running into her crate at meal time.)
She may not love the crate when she watches your leaving for work "queues," but hopefully she'll adjust. Expect a training period. She been with other dogs all her life so this is a big adjustment. It's okay to let her cry as long as she's had her potty needs handled first.
Never put her in her crate as punishment. Crates need to be a dog's happy, comfortable, good place.
Leave crate door open so she can enter to relax there whenever she'd like when you're home.
Turn on talk radio during your absences.
When she's ready, you might try an ex-pen, or dog-safe baby-gated room. Both cases would require the cats to be behind a fully closed door when you're not home until you feel more confident of Tasha's lack of interest in a running cat.
Good for each of you to separately care for/walk Tasha so she doesn't "lock on to one of you for her comfortable existence.
There is a lot of great information on GT. Please read other GT posts about SA. You should find more info. by entering "Separation Anxiety" or "SA" in the search box.
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Most GT Greyhounds were bred and reared as racing sighthounds. IMO, they are the most important dog breed to microchip. Any rare risk from a microchip is far outweighed by a Greyhound's deep-rooted natural instinct to run. A Greyhound gets loose more frequently than having any microchip problems.
Having done extensive research on microchip plans for a Greyhound rescue group, I highly recommend the AKC CAR microchip program (American Kennel Club - Companion Animal Recovery). AKC/CAR is the largest national (not- for-profit) ID and 24/7 recovery provider. AKC/CAR microchip program is absolutely the best value I found, and their scanners read all USA microchips. Lifetime coverage without any annual fees.
Separate benefit: Other pets who are already chipped with another microchip brand can transfer that microchip # to AKC/CAR for lifetime recovery coverage for a one time fee of approximately $17.50. No annual fees. (BTW, if anyone is interested, they sell a separate GPS collar tracking device for: $99.00.)
AKC/CAR link: http://www.akccar.org:80/
I have frequent experience with AKC/CAR and have been provided exceptional customer service 24/7. (I have no direct affiliation with AKC/CAR, nor am I being compensated for this recommendation.)
Microchipping only takes seconds. It's like a vaccination - for your hound's best chance of being returned. Like most chip companies, AKC sends collar tags as a secondary ID. (Good if your hound is lucky enough to be found with collar intact.)
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Sometimes my pups will stand near the door like that immediately after a walk if they realize they still have unfinished business and need to go back out to relieve themselves.
My first boy was extremely reserved and independent (not the least bit shy). He was very confident. He seemed to like the man of the house okay (and other men), but not me (or any other women). This was because he was used to having male handlers. It took him 4-5 months to even pick up a toy. He did so only after we brought in a second hound that he watched play with toys (a young, playful foster). Our boy is extremely intelligent, and watched us, but he was not trusting enough of humans to allow me to teach him much obedience, at first. It probably took about 6+ months of me slowly working to gain his trust before I even attempted to teach sit, etc. (He was already trained to heel perfectly on leash.) Early on, I didn't get too close to him unless he was standing up, and never bent over him. Greyhounds are not used to being bothered (hugged/kissed) while resting in their crates in racing kennels. They have no idea what people are going to do to them when they are approached in a home. (I let sleeping dogs lie.) Long story short, I saw amazing, positive changes with him every few months within the first 2-3 years. He started trusting me more at his own pace. He learned how to let go and play with toys, play with our other hounds, do zoomies, pounce up and down with his front paws to demand dinner (his idea!). I nearly fainted when he planted his first tiny kiss on my face, which probably took over a year... I melted! Now, he's is a total love! He completely loves me, trusts me, he physically hugs his neck around my neck to show affection, and chatters his teeth in happiness. He continues to give us kisses but he doesn't overdo them....they still have very special meaning. He still loves his daddy too, but he has become a total momma's boy!
He is even more special to me because of his history.
It sounds like your boy is doing great to have already been able to grasp so many commands and tricks this soon. He may just need more time to adjust to being an only dog for the first time in his life, and living in a home and family. Greys are so intelligent, super sensitive, they do feel emotions, and even confident hounds can take a while to adjust. He'd probably enjoy seeing other Greyhounds for walks or playdates, if that's an option.
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I hide pills in a small amount of extra yummy canned dog food. I make sure it's a small "swallow" size so they don't try to chew it up. I, too, give a couple of non-pill bites before and after the pills. (I have a couple of difficult hounds who catch on to other coatings too easily.)
Other times, I use a plastic "pill shooter" that I originally purchased for my cats. It's about pencil size with a soft rubber tip where the pill is tucked, then a little hand trigger pops the pill into the back of the throat.
This is an example of a pet piller:
http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Piller-Single-Small-Pets/dp/B0002AL6U6
That first night sounds like it was challenging on Mork, and on you. I'm happy to see him roaching comfortably in his recovery. 
Limp - Is It A Corn?
in Health and Medical discussion
Posted
If this link doesn't work, try searching: Grassmere Animal Hospital corns
http://www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/corns.htm