Ok I Need Advice...

[Guest Dragon]

I've read through a lot of the anxiety posts on here, and I have some good ideas, but I thought I would post and try to get more specific advice. Our little girl, Pixie, is having some anxiety issues. When we first got her, she was very scard of everything and everyone. She is admittedly much better, but we're still having some issues. She is very anxious about new things of any sort. For instance, if she sees you with something new in your hand, she will run away to her crate, even if it's a tool (hammer, screwdriver, weird shaped box...) that doesn't have anything to do with her. She is also VERY afraid of the car. She's a good girl, and we've been pretty confident that we'll be able to train her over time, so I've not been too concerned. She does demonstrate a willingness to learn (though she is a bit slow) and strong desire to please us, as well as the fact that she does seem to love and trust us. However, since it has gotten a bit warmer, we recently installed the a/c in our bedroom window for the summer. She was petrified of it, expectedly, but I was able to get her to take treats from me and come near it (which she absolutely will not do if she's in full out anxiety mode). The big problem is bedtime. I have a feeling it has something to do with the floor slightly vibrating (akin to the car idling), but she will not go to bed. Both of our dogs sleep in our room on separate dog beds, and generally she loves to run right upstairs to go to bed, but ever since the a/c has been on the past two nights, she has become more and more scared of her bed. Last night we waited until she fell asleep to turn the a/c back on, and she was fine...until 3 hours later when she woke up in a panic and would not go back to bed. Finally, we coaxed her to bed and barricaded the area so she had to stay in bed. She fell asleep for another couple hours, then woke up in a panic again. We could not calm her down. She would just pace around the room. We ended up (at 4 am) just letting her spend the rest of the night in her crate downstairs, which she was more than happy to do (even though she used to cry if we made her sleep in there). Because we've been trying to "power through" this problem, I fear we've made it worse. Now she won't even go near her bed even with the a/c off.

 

I suppose we could just let her sleep in the crate all summer, but we have been working on getting a downstairs a/c to keep them comfortable during the day as well. Also, I'd rather fix problems like these than just avoid them. Upon doing research, it's clear to me that she does need some self-esteem/confidence boosting activities. I'm just not sure exactly what to do with her. She already knows some tricks, but maybe an obstacle course or something? I'm also planning on trying melatonin to help her. The vet recommended xanax, but I'd rather not use it, only as a last resort. Posts on here recommend using human grade melatonin, but other online research indicated that it's not safe. Is it safe for greys?

 

I know she may never be the most outgoing, confident dog, and that's fine, but I don't want her to continue to be anxious like this (shaking, panting, avoiding), especially since it's affecting our other dog, who is otherwise perfect. He has started to be aggressive toward neighbour dogs on walks, but only in our neighbourhood and only with her present because she gets scared when she sees other dogs.

 

Any thoughts?

 

-Dragon and Pixie's Mom

[OwnedBySummer]

It took me 6 months to get Summer to tolerate a fire, be it a campfire or a fire at home in the fireplace. I shut the french doors to the family room and she simply had to stay in there with us. Now, she'll sprawl on the couch facing the fireplace and bask in the heat. And we try not to burn certain woods, as loud popping still disturbs her.

 

As to loud noises and anxiety, I recently bought her a Thundershirt and it is, so far, doing an amazing job with thunderstorms and fireworks. If you don't want to invest in one, you can try a t-touch wrap yourself. If it works, then you might want to buy one. They're about $36.

 

Good luck!

[TheFullHouse]

Human grade Melatonin is safe for greyhounds. I've used it on several of mine with no problems at all. You may find that a few nights downstairs by herself will send her back upstairs. Is there a hallway right outside your door? Maybe you could move her bed just out of the bedroom where she won't feel the vibration from the air conditioner but will still be able to see you. The last two years we had a window air conditioner but I don't remember it making the floor vibrate. Is there a way to make it more secure so that it won't cause the vibration? Just brainstorming here.

[greyhead]

Could you try putting her bed out in the hall, so she's in range but not in the room? She can get used to the sound and vibration from a distance and learn that it won't hurt her. Then you can move the bed closer and finally into the room again. This is called systematic desensitization, and you can Google it to read about it.

Edited May 27, 2011 by greyhead

[Guest Dragon]

Those are all great ideas. I'm definitely going to try the thundershirt and melatonin. What side thundershirt did you get? What dosage of melatonin? My girl is about 60lbs. As far as putting the bed out in the hall, we still wouldn't be able to leave the door open bc the a/c would leak out, but maybe we can try it when it's not as hot out and just put the "fan" setting on. It's not a big vibration, and you probably wouldn't even know about it, but if you stand there and think about it, it is vibrating a bit, and I know she can feel it. The other thing is, while she's housebroken, I don't 100% trust her not to pee in the house unsupervised/uncrated. She has peed before...

 

But I am definitely on board with desensitization. Whenever I've tried it in the past, she's not crazy about it, but maybe I push her too much and need to take it slower...?

[Guest Giselle]

The root of abnormal fear is the lack of socialization or a negative experience (but it's almost always tied back to socialization). This is why we emphasize rampant and radical socialization with puppies - so as to avoid unnecessary fear in the future.

 

Ex-racers live a very unique life at the track, but, while they are extremely well socialized to other greyhounds and human handling and artificial noises, they are not very well socialized to the norms of the typical American household. That means they tend not to be socialized to constructs like glass doors, like washing machines, like vacuums, etc. That job, this job of socialization to household items, needs to fall on you, then It is a big job, but you can do it.

 

So, how do we essentially re-socialize an adult dog? The same way you would with a puppy, albeit you'll likely have lower thresholds to deal with. A "threshold" is the intensity and frequency of a stimulus that a dog can handle BEFORE s/he begins exhibiting fear or stress. A high threshold is good; it means your dog can tolerate a lot of things at one time. A low threshold is not quite desirable, but a low threshold can easily be built up through: counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC and DS). CC means that you pair a neutral/negative stimulus (like the AC-machine) with a positive association (like yummy yummy fresh meat!). DS means that you introduce the stimulus at low levels and gradually increase its intensity or frequency. DS will work best if you *avoid* triggering a fear response from your dog. That means - don't go too far too fast. Stay below your dog's threshold.

 

When you take these two together, you can sort of intuitively plan a regiment to work off of. Day 1- start in the living room and reward your dog for being calm. Move a couple steps up the stairs, treat/reward, and then go back down into the living room or whatever her "safe" zone is. Day 2 - move a little closer to the bedroom, but always return back to her safe zone. Day 3 - move a little closer, etc. etc. Return to her safe zone. Day 4 - etc.

 

But people often find that DS/CC are not AS effective as doing DS/CC and an "Alternate Behavior". If you can teach your dog to Sit/Target/Down/Spin Around/whatever, you can repeatedly ask for these behaviors in closer increments to the stimulus. For example, start in the living room and do repeat Sit's around the room. Then, start doing repeat Sit's in the hallway. Then, while your dog is performing repeat Sit's happily in the hallway, you can run up the stairs and play the repeat Sit's game in your bedroom. Think about it: If your dog is happily focusing on you and performing behaviors in the bedroom, s/he is, by definition, being counter-conditioned and desensitized to the stimulus. See this video for an example with an aggressive dog:

http://drsophiayin.com/resources/video_full/podees_aggressive_to_other_dogs

Dr. Yin also has a Perfect Puppy ebook out that illustrates in detail the importance of DS/CC, socialization, and how to recognize signs of fear so as to avoid them. See here: http://drsophiayin.com/products/buy

I helped edit early versions of Perfect Puppy, and I highly suggest giving it a quick read-through if you're unsure of how to go about DS/CC It's very informative and an easy to read for beginner trainers.

Edited May 29, 2011 by Giselle

[3greytjoys]

I'm not a veterinarian but I was told by a vet to find Melatonin that is naturally derived. (One example: "Nature Made" brand is naturally derived and easily available in CA.) As with most drugs, it's good to use the least amount that works for your hound's needs. You might try one 3 mg. tablet first to see how Pixie handles Melatonin. An average 60# to 75# hound can usually tolerate 6 mgs. without a problem. Be careful of your timing. It takes about 30 minutes to kick in. (Melatonin is frequently used for thunderphobic hounds.)

 

Melatonin may help get your pup through the first few nights, but a better long term solution is to work through the program "Giselle" posted. She's right on target, and that method handles the root issue, paying particular attention to not pushing too fast, staying below your hound's fear threshold.

Good luck with your new girl, Pixie. It will take some time to adjust to home life, but she'll improve with your gentle care and understanding. I bet she'll reward you tenfold.

[Guest Dragon]

Thanks so much, I totally have a game plan now! On a side note, 3 mg may be too much for her...she didn't finish her breakfast this morning. Very out of character. Stress or stomach ache from melatonin? I'm going to cut it back to 1 mg and maybe build up.

[3greytjoys]

Thanks so much, I totally have a game plan now! On a side note, 3 mg may be too much for her...she didn't finish her breakfast this morning. Very out of character. Stress or stomach ache from melatonin? I'm going to cut it back to 1 mg and maybe build up.

 

It sounds like you already bought and tried 3 mg. Melatonin (maybe last night?). It's hard to say what reduced her interest in food this AM. Stress could certainly be a factor. Not sure if she appeared groggy with her reduced appetite. (I give hounds a light kibble bedtime snack, and I give food before giving meds. One of our girls is sensitive about eating when there are household changes. She'll skip breakfast and wait until dinner to eat.)

 

There are a number of discomforts Pixie could have re: the A/C. The vibration (as you mentioned), the loud noise (dogs' sense of hearing is greatly magnified compared to humans), cold breeze circulating over/on her. I'd let her sleep where she feels comfortable and safe for at least the next week or so. Crated, baby-gated or ex-pen downstairs for her safety. She'll still hear the new A/C unit upstairs but will be able to get more used to the noise over time without being a few feet away from it in the same room. Greys are sensitive to temperature changes and it might get too cold for her too. As mentioned, if she follows you around a lot, she might follow you into the bedroom when you're getting ready in the AM. Eventually, when she goes back in the bedroom to sleep, if there's room for her crate, covering the back half of her crate with a sheet/quilt might help her feel more protected from the A/C unit for the first couple of weeks. Many hounds love the cave-like feeling of a crate.

 

I'm not sure when you adopted Pixie, or where you are located, but if you haven't contacted your local Greyhound group yet, that would be a great step for one-on-one support. They'll likely be able to help with more information to help Pixie feel more confident in general, help with car ride tips, help her trust you when you have items in your hand, etc. It often helps if people move slowly, and don't make direct eye contact with the dog. Good to approach a dog from the side, and to pet her on her side, or shoulder (instead of head-on from the front). Good to search more specific topics here too. A couple of our girls (and fosters) were on the shy side early on...You'd never believe that now!

[Guest RichardUK]

I had to deal with a very fearful bitch at the kennels that I eventually bought home. The worst case that anyone at the kennels had experienced. She was so frightened that she had to carried into the kennels being too scared to walk - In essence the reason why she retired from racing after 10 runs she had to be carried to the traps. In her kennel she would drop to the floor curl into a ball and shiver every time anyone paused outside - except me.

 

For six weeks I would sit in her kennel talking gently before taking her using a slip lead to the paddock - then tried walking her on leash when she would only walk backwards - after another six weeks she would walk normally. Then one day she saw another greyhound and walker 300yds away in the field and panicked - She pulled out of her collar which was too loose as I had been too gentle. She made a bee-line to her kennel which was luckily open and jumped onto her bed where she quivered. She was totally beautiful - a silver brindle with clear black tiger stripes - but every one who went near except me caused her to drop into a quivering ball of fear. She was un-adoptable - so I was "persuaded" to take her home - as she also tolerated my own two dogs for some reason.

 

At home she was frightened of absolutely everything - though only the hoover caused panic - but starting it outside the room - moving closer each time - and my other two dogs taking no notice - she gradually became used to it eventually allowing it to be used next to her bed - We do not use crates in the home as they do not seem necessary. On street walks it was the same - she was scared of lampposts and telegraph poles - but slowly accepted them - panicked at car and truck noise (especially air brake noise) but bolstered by the other tows lack of reaction tolerated even them. During this time we not meet other dogs. Interestingly she learned to use the dog door in 24 hours - but it is similar to a starting trap..

 

I then took her to our local forest - she was frightened of other dogs but no problems as the collar was tight enough not to slip. Again bolstered by the other two's lack of reaction she tolerated them (leash was slack not taut)

 

After a year of this she was like the other two reacting normally with other dogs. Had superb recall. Interestingly when we were "assaulted" by a Large loose Rottweiler while on leash on the side walk - she joined in my dog's pack retaliation with vigour which sent the Rottweiler away very rapidly indeed.

 

She was never friendly with anybody except our "pack" but would go to meet and greets where she won two prizes without problems.

 

The trick seemed to be approach everything in tiny steps - I never used treats as she wasn't interested - PTS at 13 due to cancer

[jenn8]

Ex-racers live a very unique life at the track, but, while they are extremely well socialized to other greyhounds and human handling and artificial noises, they are not very well socialized to the norms of the typical American household. That means they tend not to be socialized to constructs like glass doors, like washing machines, like vacuums, etc. That job, this job of socialization to household items, needs to fall on you, then

 

This is called "habituation" and I agree that this is where many greyhounds are lacking as opposed to socialization with people and other greyhounds.

 

Jenn

Edited May 29, 2011 by jenn8