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brianamac

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Posts posted by brianamac

  1. It sounds like you have a good handle on dogs and have received great responses.

    You may never know--you could simply foster Sam and let him go to another family, and your next foster, or the one after, will be cuddly and affectionate. Or you could foster dog after dog and none of them will ever become the dog you are hoping for in the amount of time that fostering usually lasts for.

    I think "your dog, your one and only" doesn't exist and/or can't be determined in a short period of time. A dog that you have the pure love and affection you desire will probably also have other issues that may be bigger--all dogs do, as you know. What if you get the cuddly, immediate bond dog who has severe SA, or is aggressive with other dogs, or terrified of strangers? IMO, a lack of affection if the easiest 'issue' to deal with, as that will grow. I know it's hard to believe after 3 weeks of feeding, training, and trying to love on Sam. But it WILL come, though it may be subtle.

    You mentioned a disability that makes you want for a dog to have a special bond with. I understand where you are coming from, I needed that too. My first Grey will always be a 'people hater' as you say... however, he has healed and helped me much more than my cuddly guy. Cuddles and attention from the people hater, when they happen, mean so much.

    At the end of the day, if you look at the dog laying next to you on the couch and you don't feel a connection, you've answered your own question. He should go to another family.

    I just need to say that I was ready to let Boo go to a family that was more 'suited' for him... we didn't... and 2 years later I think keeping him was the best decision we've ever made (and Boo had a LOT of issues that Sam doesn't seem to have).

    Good luck and keep us posted.

  2. Thanks for all the kind words guys! He's such a lovable little peanut.

     

    How is Boo doing? Has he relaxed any? Less fearful? My scardy pants dog did ended up doing a 180 when I brought another home for him. It has been four years and I still have to keep those two together with whatever I do, lol.

     

     

    Yes!! Boo is like a completely different dog now. I was expecting a change, but not this drastic. All of our neighbours comment on it. It's so wonderful to see him relaxed and happy--going for walks, greeting people and other dogs, etc.


    Oh he's cute! And so tiny for a boy (I imagine his weight will go up once you get some meat on his bones!). What a sweetie he is :D He probably had JUST left Corey's adoption kennel when I walked in and met and fell in love with Clarice :)

     

    Wish we would have met Clarice when we were there... I :beatheart all the 'Bones' dogs! She is gorgeous.

  3. We knew our shy and fear aggressive Grey needed a confident Greyhound pal to flourish. We fostered but never found the right one.

    In September, my husband and I went to visit the adoption kennel at Dubuque to learn more about the dog's lives pre-adoption. We spent 4 days helping out and learning in the kennel with Corey, who runs it, and fell in love with many dogs. One dog we did NOT fall in love with was Bubba.

    He was hand-shy and skittish. He would cautiously try to play with us when our backs were turned, but we never were able to even touch him. He was SO shy. As such, we hardly got to know him.

    A month and a half later, our group was sharing a haul with another group. Corey was willing to send Bubba to us. My husband and I volunteered to foster him, as we have experience with fearful dogs... we thought we could help him get to the point of being adopted.

    Within 2 days, he was flashing big toothy smiles at us anytime we paid attention to him. He chattered just for pets. He was COMPLETELY unlike the dog we met in Dubuque. I guess he was just intimidated being around too many humans and/or dogs. After 4 days of fostering, on Halloween, we decided we couldn't live without him.

    Gone was the fearful dog; Bubba loves human interaction like nothing else. And he has helped his Grey brother immensely.

    Our little 50 lb. (inappropriately named) bundle of joy:

     

    photo-9_zpsae91ada9.jpg

     

    photo-8_zps2839196c.jpg

     

    photo-7_zpseaa7215a.jpg

  4. To give you another perspective, these are my immediate thoughts:

     

    Oh my goodness, if my dogs were to do this, I'd grab a toy and PLAY!!!!! If you spend any time at all with a professional trainer or one who trains to compete, you'll quickly realize that one of the hardest things we can teach our dogs is to play with us. Like - full on body slam tug-o-war zoomie type of play. This type of play is SO desirable because this is an animal who is driven, who is happy, who is relaxed. Even though they're showing these emotions in a very frenetic type of way, this type of play is beautiful to watch and so fun to engage with because it's a happy driven dog! What a joy!!

     

    Instead of ignoring, redirect it and control it. Channel that energy and joy towards something useful. For competition dogs, we try to channel that energy into performing obedience/agility/whatever exercises with speed and enthusiasm. For the average pet dog, you can also do something very similar. Every time your dog starts to get amped up, grab a SUPER fun toy (i.e. tie a stuffy to a lure pole or a long nylon string), and engage the dog to chase the toy. Then, abruptly stop. Wait. As soon as your dog loosens his grip on the toy or looks at you like, "Wait, why are you stopping?", immediately say "Give!" and pop a treat into his mouth as he releases the toy. Then, you can ask for a Down or a Sit, and then release him to chase the toy again. This way, you're teaching him impulse control and controlling his playful energy in a useful way. I think this type of play energy is such a joy, and I really encourage you to think of ways to harness it rather than decreasing it :) It's a good thing!

    Here's a video of the impulse control tug-of-war exercise:

     

    This handler has already taught her dog "Give" (she uses "Out", I think), but that's basically what the finished product will look like. Imagine turning all that frenetic energy into a happy, controlled, well-mannered greyhound!

    LOVE this insight, thanks. Very helpful!

     

    To the OP: As kkaiser mentioned, we typically try and get a toy in his mouth when he gets like this. The excitement has helped us in other training as well: when he gets the toy (always a rubber toy, Bubba eats stuffies whole), we call him back to us. When he seems ready to release the toy, we say 'drop it'. Then we take the toy and throw it again, call him back, and repeat 'drop it'. He now releases the toy when we ask him to drop it. The results have been twofold:

    1) His recall has improved, as he knows coming back to us = more fun!

    2) His 'drop it' command improved, now he knows that if he drops an item (toys and sometimes even food), he will get it back and have more fun with the humans as a reward.

    But on top of that, it gives him an outlet for that crazy, nippy, over-excited energy that allows us to be involved in a way that is actually fun for us, too... not feeling like we are a 'target' for his energy.

    The behaviour we still do the back-turny and ignore is when he jumps on us. He's definitely getting better at not jumping, as he knows that we aren't going to throw toys or give attention until he stops jumping. That is the part of this process that has been slow and requires patience :-)

  5. After a traumatic dog event, I dealt with one of mine having a totally debilitating fear of other dogs as well, so I understand. Wiley's dog park interaction may not have been 'traumatic' from the outside, but his fear is real.

    I would recommend no more dog park for a while. Take him for leashed walks around the neighbourhood where he can have controlled interactions with other dogs. If there aren't any dogs in your hood, drive to another where there are a few. When he meets another dog, let them have a brief (2 second ONLY) sniff, then move along and give treats and/or praise. If you live in a community like mine, some people find it insulting if you don't stop and let your dog interact with theirs--I always say "my dog is training", and everyone seems to understand that.

    If it ever seems overwhelming for Wiley and he tail tucks to a hard degree when another dog is approaching, just turn and walk the other way. If he goes over his fear 'threshold', he probably won't be learning much and it may reinforce the fear. Don't comfort him, just carry on. So avoid the dogs he finds immediately scary, and let him have a brief and positive interactions with the ones he isn't opposed to. Reward reward reward after those brief interactions, or better, teach him 'look at me' as you approach other dogs. You can then work up to him meeting all kinds of dogs once he is comfortable again with dogs he perceives as 'non-threatening'.

    Some people recommend pushing a dogs boundaries a bit, and I believe it works for some. Personally, I found it helpful to take to the slooooow approach, and always end interactions on a positive note.

    It took us months of taking the slow approach, but it was worth it. Sometimes it was 1 step forward and 2 back, but every positive interaction was like a building block in taking his confidence with other dogs back up to where it was.

    If you want to chat, I believe it is local to call between Calgary and Med Hat. I would be more than happy to chat with you a little further about this. Just email the SAGA board email if you're interested and we can share phone numbers. I would love to chat with you more about this.

    All the best to you guys and Wiley!

     

    ETA: Don't feel 'terrible' about putting a leash on him at the park. You did what was best for him at the time.

  6. Sounds like the dog may workable (as she didn't fixate), but to me 'workability' has a multitude of factors involved: layout of your house, personality of your cats, but most of all how much time you are willing to commit to being diligent all the time.

    If you don't have the layout/willingness to separate the cats and the dog to allow you to do normal house things (laundry, showers, etc), be prepared to spend a LOT of time supervising and training--even when she is muzzled. This can take days for some, but weeks or months for others.

    One of our fosters chased the cats heavily but learned after a couple of weeks with consistent supervision and training.

    Another foster (who we've since adopted) has indeed lunged and attempted to grab one of the cats twice. It's been three months since he's been here and we still work on training every time they're in a room together. "No cat!", treat and praise. "Look at me", praise and pets. He doesn't mess with them anymore and has learned that we are more interesting than the cats, however, he is NEVER left unsupervised without a muzzle and he needs to be crated when we leave the house, as I'm sure no muzzle will save the cat if someone isn't around to intervene. He isn't safe with cats outdoors and I wouldn't trust him with an unfamiliar cat even in our house.

    There are lots of tips I've read in other threads that helped me figure out the best way to train. Perhaps a search will turn something up?

     

    Most importantly though, be brutally honest with yourself about whether you are willing to potentially spend most of your free time when you are home supervising. It really can wear on you after a bit if it's constant.

  7. Hi Briana,

    I would guess bacterial or fungal, too. Be sure to let us know what the vet says.

     

    If you haven't already, send an email to Corey with the link to this thread. She

    may have some ideas for you.

     

    Do these spots develop on areas that are under pressure as he's lying down?

     

    Mary

     

    Thanks Mary, I knew you would have some advice. I will update with the vet results. I'm inclined to think you and Batmom are right.

    They are definitely not on pressure areas... they seem to occur spontaneously, mostly along his spine and he doesn't roach.

     

    Thanks again for your advice. I knew after your years of Greyhounding you would have an idea. :) Sorry to make you venture out of 'off topic' and peafowl discussions.

  8. EEEeeeeeeeekkk squeals of excitement! I sent Stacy some recent photos of Houston when I had her sign his "retirement papers" and I would be happy to send some to David as well. Any information at all would be nice, whether there is an answer about his scars or not. I realize he left them years ago and they have seen so many dogs since then, so it will be all the more flattering if he stood out of the crowd enough that someone would remember my boy!

     

    My husband and I were in Iowa in September and Stacy was nice enough to let us come visit her farm for a few hours.

    She seemed to have a lot of love for the dogs in her care. She talked to us about naming them, playing with them, training them... she took some out and let us hold them and play with them in their pens.

    Stacy also mentioned that she LOVED getting letters and pictures about dogs that were previously at her farm.

    If Houston was there, I can assure you he got human love and attention, from what I saw when I visited. She really seemed to have genuine care for the Greyhounds.

  9. Sounds similar to James' recurrent staph infections. By the time we'd find them, the raised, crusty areas would be pretty large. We could pull the hair out and the skin would come with it. I don't recall any pus, though.

    The pus amounts are very minimal. If we mess with the scab while in the raised crusty stage, there is some sticky seepage into the fur and on our hands that seems like pus to me. It doesn't weep on it's own if we don't touch it.

     

    What did you do with James' infections? How did the vet diagnose, and was there an underlying reason for why they would reoccur?

     

    Thanks in advance.

  10. Thanks for all of the advice guys! I think I will just stick with the one class for now.

     

    We had our second class today and it was GREAT!! There 9 people/dogs in our group that showed up and we split into 2 mini groups so there were only 4 in our group. Wiley was way better! He actually did a few zoomies at the beginning! He laid down for me several times and it looked like he was having fun! He did some jumps and laid down on this table thingy.

     

    More updates to come next week! Thanks for the advice! I am really enjoying myself :)

     

    Very cool that you are doing this with Wiley! We want to start agility with Bubba too, once we work on his basic manners a little more. Perhaps in the spring.

    Look forward to chatting about agility classes with you in the future! :flip

  11. I vote skin reaction to food allergy. We've experienced the same thing recently, on Kasey's back - primarily focused along his spine. We've known about his allergies for years, and have taken many steps to get ahead, but sometimes, his reactions just keep happening. We switched to a one protein raw not too long ago (he was on a three protein raw and we were aware that the other two proteins were positive for reaction, but that's the joy of food trials), and aha problem solved.

    That is interesting and something I hadn't considered.

    We fed him his 'foster food' when he was our foster, and he did well on it. We then switched him to the same food as our other dog and the stools got more 'voluminous', so we've switched him back to his foster food.

    They are both chicken based foods though, so perhaps we will try him on a different protein and see if that resolves the issue. Thanks for the recommendation! Good thoughts.

  12. After doing some research, I wonder if it may be a staph infection? It certainly doesn't look like many of the photos I've seen online, but who knows. Either way, I guess Bubba should head to the vet, but I wanted to get some opinions here first.

     

    When Bubba first came to us in late October, he had a couple of raised, crusty (non circular) scabs on his back. I assumed he just got nicked during his transport with other dogs. Indeed they healed, the scabs fell off with some fur, the fur grew back and he was scab free for a fewweeks.

     

    Since then, he seems to develop them randomly on different spots on his back and sides. Usually he only has one or two at a time, always in different random areas. They start as raised, crusty areas (usually irregular shapes, but occasionally circles). Sometimes there are small amounts of pus that seep into the surrounding fur. They then fall off, leaving a bare scale-y pink area. The fur always grows back and the scaliness goes away and everything looks back to normal.

     

    He doesn't mind us touching them at any stage. Mostly he doesn't mess with them, but occasionally they must be itchy as he will bite at them and remove the scab (as you will see in the photo). I wash it thoroughly afterwards and am going to pick up some manuka honey to apply.

     

    Bubba shows no other symptoms... he is happy, full of energy, eats well, normal stools, etc.

     

    Any thoughts? Advice?

     

    Here are two photos- I don't have a photo of the 'thick crusty scab stage', but here is one of the wound after he chewed a scab off today, and a photo of an area that is healing and has just flat, flakiness. The wounds are usually about dime-nickel sized.

     

    photo-1_zps89ec53c1.jpg[/url]

     

    photo_zps40994e49.jpg[/url]

     

     


    Sorry for the poor picture quality. I will try and get better shots.

  13. Unfortunately, there is just no way to keep the queen size bed in the room and still fit a crib. I think we are going to be putting a couch in the room though so he would be allowed to sleep on that. I have never tried a washable sheep skin - I will try that perhaps on this new couch! I will also be sure to make a cozy place for him in our bedroom. He has plenty of beds in the house so I'm hopeful he'll adjust well and not be too upset by this one aspect of things. Having a crying baby in the house will probably take a bit more time for him to get used to though.

     

    I understand how you're worried about how your dog will react to the baby crying, I have the same concern for when my time comes, as one of my greys has a strong prey drive response when he hears babies crying on TV.

    I read that it's a good idea to play sound clips of crying throughout your pregnancy to get the dog accustomed to the sound. I'm sure it would help if you throw some treats or extra pets his way while you play the clips, so he learns to make positive associations with the noise. You might as well eat some chocolate, so you get positive associations with baby crying too :lol

    Good luck!

  14. We have a grey who is nicked and scarred up quite a bit... he has acquired many more since we've had him. He is also anxious. I am positive he was not abused.

    We recently visited a Greyhound farm and got to see the puppies at various stages from birth to 1 year old, and I can tell you from watching their play: a lot of the scars come from puppyhood rough play.

    The scars are totally normal and NOT indicative of abuse.

    If you're unsure about this type of thing, you can try and contact the owner/trainer to confirm. Most of the scars are likely the result of regular play between dogs and their thin skin.


    Just want to add this as well: your picture suggests that June is Fawn. IMO, fawn's tend to show scarring MUCH more than some other colours.

  15.  

     

    Another suggestion, if you have a big strong person in your life, is to have that person lift Payton up off his feet. This does sometimes work.

     

     

    THIS! When we visited a racing kennel in Dubuque, they showed us their 'hanging scale' for weighing the dogs... a full body sling supports the dog while it's in the air, getting weighed. They mentioned that that is the best way to do nails on a touchy dog. The dog goose-necks and no fussing.

    We've tried this with our guys at home, by lifting them up and holding them, and it works. You may only be able to get one paw done at a time, but it's no fussing or squirming, and therefore less possibility of quicking or them thinking you're "the bad guy". Lots of treats afterwards (they probably won't take treats while being suspended in the air)!

    We still do take our sensitive nail guy to the groomers to get them done. Well worth the money as he frets less with them than he does with us.

  16. I can't see how you could get bitten through a basket muzzle unless it wasn't properly fitted and the dog got it off, which could as easily happen with a fabric muzzle.

    Um, teeth still come through a basket muzzle. Properly fitted. Obviously, if you've ever cat tested a dog, you know this. Basket muzzles are great for every day wear, like I said. Fabric muzzles are good for hairy situations with dogs that are known biters.

    Nothing to argue about here. A dog that bites can inflict damage through a basket muzzle. Keep a fabric one on hand for treating injuries. End of story. Christ.

  17. I wouldn't recommend a fabric muzzle. The basket muzzle provides protection from a snap AND allows the dog to pant, which can be crucial to maintaining body temperature when the dog is stressed.

     

    I recommended the fabric muzzle ONLY for injuries, nail trims, etc. Obviously the fabric muzzle isn't for every day wear. The basket muzzle is great but doesn't provide protection in a hairy scenario. For someone who has been bitten, a fabric muzzle (for 15 minute type of things) is a godsend.

    Basket muzzle for normal wear, but it is HUGELY beneficial to have a fabric muzzle onhand for "situations".

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