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krissy

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Posts posted by krissy

  1. BUN/creat were a little high for a greyhound or a little high for a dog? Remember that most greyhounds have slightly elevated BUN/creat.

     

    When I test my guys their thyroid levels are so low they are actually unable to give me an actual number. They just give me <____ (whatever the lowest detection point is). But running a full thyroid panel might be a good idea in light of the seizures.

     

    I'm at work so can't pull up the resources. But I'm sure someone else here will be able to do that shortly.

  2. Did you just xray his leg/shoulder?? When Dude's osteo metastisized, it was in his spine, and hadn't shown up on any of the previous xrays we'd done of his limbs, but was clearly there (and had been there a while) at the end. I'm just paranoid about it, I guess, but I always mention it. His grumbling about being lifted is what prompts me, as it indicates something else might be happening.

    No, I x-rayed his entire leg. We've got some of his spine on them. He's also been to the Chiro recently and I feel like adjusting should have caused extreme pain if there was anything going on in his back.

  3. Thanks for all the good thoughts everyone.

     

    Wanted to update everyone as soon as possible. We just got home and I'm very happy to report that his x-rays were good. In fact I couldn't even find any sign of arthritis. I've put him back on Deramaxx and he has his joint supplement. I may look into something stronger like Adequan or Cosequin. I'm still a little concerned in general though because he was very grumbly about being lifted on and off the table which is strange for him. He has never liked bing lifted but he has never grumbled. And I have noticed in the past 4-6 months that his normal laying down "grumbles" have increased significantly as well. Before it was occasional and just sort of like a "oomph" kind of thing when he laid down, now it's a really extended groan/grumble. I thought maybe it was just a new thing he was doing, but it does concern me that I can't seem to find an exact source of pain. He is so incredibly stoic it is actually frustrating.

     

    But at least his bones look good. I am thankful for that. Hopefully the daily Deramaxx helps.

  4. So one of the dog training groups (non- AAC or agility specific) offers a beginner agility course on Tuesday nights. I was thinking of joining that and then doing the other course on Wednesday. I thought that was Wiley would get more exposure. Do you think that is too much? Will he be over whelmed?

     

    I'd probably stick to once a week until he becomes more comfortable, but I'd probably check out the other course and see if it is more appropriate for Wiley.

  5. Well, I'm taking Summit in to work tomorrow to x-ray his leg. He has been limping on and off for about a month and a half or so. It's his front left which is the leg that he always limps on so I wasn't too concerned about it. If he runs hard he would limp afterwards, sometimes when he'd get up he'd be a little stiff on it for a few steps, and every winter it's been more noticeable than the summers. But this winter has been the worst. He started limping when it got really cold and I didn't think anything of it since it was cold. It hasn't really gotten worse, at least not drastically, and some days he'll be alright. He still runs on it given the chance (the ice and snow in our backyard has not afforded many chances).

     

    But he's getting x-rays because I've noticed him being grouchy and snarky recently. The other day the rabbit jumped off my lap and landed on him and he did a massive startle (which he normally doesn't) and actually put a paw over the rabbit and put his mouth around him. And he's been less patient with Kili being rough with him.

     

    So I just want to make sure it's just arthritis and there's no badness going on. If it was any other leg I would have been really worried a long time ago and done the x-rays weeks ago. But this leg has always had some arthritis so I just kept an eye on it. But I don't like the behaviour changes, so in he goes tomorrow.

  6. Wow... in my opinion that is way too many dogs for one class, especially with only one trainer. Even with multiple trainers you really don't want that many dogs in one class. It's OVER distracting and the potential for interdog problems is a lot higher. I am guessing this is a "Fun-gility" course as I can't imagine a competitive course being run that way. Honestly, I would recommend finding a trainer that runs classes for people interested in competition. First of all, IF you are interested in ever competing it is important to start right. And secondly, even if you're NOT interested in competing there are a lot of things that are beneficial in terms of safety... aside from just the number of dogs in the class. Competitive trainers focus on safety because competitors want to run their dogs A LOT and we want to extend the useful agility lives of our dogs. But even if you only do agility for fun, safety and injury prevention are still important. That's just my two cents.

     

    Where in Ontario are you? I might know some trainers near you.

  7. This agility course has about 14 other dogs.

     

    Whoa! That is way too many unless they have some really crazy configuration. My classes are always no more than 4 teams. And I prefer when there are 3. 14 is WAY too many unless they are using separate rooms/rings and multiple trainers per group. A trainer cannot keep track of that many dogs and cannot spend enough time with each team to be safe, never mind effective.

     

    Just as an example... when you start to do contact equipment, the trainer has to be standing right there to help. So it is one dog at a time on equipment.

     

    Unless you were exaggerating and there's only like 5. lol. Humour is kind of hard to identify online!

  8. Thanks for the AAC tip! I tend to get TOTALLY ahead of myself LOL. So how long does it usually take from the first session to the competition ring? I realize that this club has 4 training levels we would need to go through. But what is the approximate time line? 6 months? 2 years? If we started our training in January 2014, when do you think we can do our first competition? This May? This November? Next January? Next July?

     

    Well, it depends on how quickly the dog progresses. Kili started training last June and we have been going to weekly group classes plus we do our own work several times a week (though not in the last month thanks to this deep freeze... horse arena is too cold at night) and my hope is to have her ready by the fall. She's a good agility prospect but young so that adds some time.

     

    Getting a dog competition ready is a pretty long process. There is a lot of equipment to teach. Some stuff is quick like jumps. Other stuff like weaves and teeters take weeks or months to teach. Then you have to learn how to handle a course. The dog needs to learn to run with the distractions of a trial environment and without reward for an entire course.

     

    So depending on the dog, the individual, and the amount of training you can put in I think at least a year for most teams.

     

    ETA: and as Neylasmom has noted, Wiley isn't exactly the dog a serious agility competitor would choose. Which is not to say he can't do agility. I think it is great for building confidence and you never know where that will go. But. Baby steps.

  9. Most agility competitors show AAC and not CKC/UKC. In the case of CKC and UKC you would have to register the dog. They have registration applications on their website somewhere. As I said though, in Canada, most people trial in AAC (Agility Association of Canada)... at least that has been my experience. I've found that most people doing UKC/CKC are doing so because they also show the dog in conformation so it is easier to hit one show and do several events (conformation, agility, obedience) all at the same show. My breeder does UKC agility, for example, because she shows her dogs in UKC conformation so she can easily get the dogs to all their different shows and get their titles with less time and driving.

     

    And of course those with crossbreeds show AAC of course since they can't register in CKC/UKC.

  10. That's really good!

     

    One thing, remember to let him MAKE a choice. So, a few times I notice that your hand is actually over it before he goes to investigate. You want to prevent him from snatching, but the point of impulse control is that he needs to start to make that decision. So let him make a decision... even if it's wrong! :) Put it right under his nose and unless he actually tries to take it don't do anything. If he makes a move you need to be faster, but otherwise you want to give him a chance to make a good decision and back off.

     

    You guys are doing well though! :) He's a smart cookie.

  11. Agility classes sounds awesome. I would love to get into these but I don't know how to even go about it? How do you find classes by you?

    Anyway, good luck! And have fun :)

     

    When I start looking for a new trainer (when I move cities, etc.) if I didn't have any recommendations from anyone I just google "Dog agility classes [city name]". That should bring up most of the trainers near you that offer agility classes. Then from there you need to go through carefully and read their websites and call them up to talk to them. It is super important that classes are reward based positive reinforcement only. Especially for agility it must be all positive, in my opinion. You are asking your dog to do something for fun... so it should be fun! Even saying "no" can potentially be demotivating which reduces the speed at which the dog approaches the course. That might not be super important for folks not intending to compete... but you never know if you'll change your mind down the road.

     

    Generally they want the dogs to have a good obedience foundation... and even if your dog does already I sometimes think it is worthwhile to start with a new trainer with a basic obedience course. This gives you an idea of the trainer's training philosophy and how they handle problems that pop up... without risking causing an aversion to the equipment if the trainer is the wrong one for you. It's also good for the trainer to have an idea of your dog and how to work with him/her. You can also observe a class without your dog to see how the trainer works with other dogs to see if you like their methods.

  12. Teaching impulse control is great. You could try this too:

     

    Get some food out. Start low value since he is so motivated. Maybe just kibble to start. Put the food in one hand or in a cup and hold it out. If he goes for it immediately cover the food with a hand. Don't say anything, don't scold him, nothing. When he backs off, take your hand away. If he stays backed off give him a piece of the food. If he goes for it, cover it up again. Even the sight of the food is rewarding so when he backs off all you need to do is show him the food again as a small reward. I have a video somewhere with Kili. I'm on my iPad right now so can't link it, but I will when I get to work.

  13. Agility can be a great way to build confidence in a dog. We have one rescued poodle in our class who was afraid of everything when we started class. He still has his moments but it is really incredible the progress he has made.

     

    Finding what motivates your dog is key as it can make a big difference. We use mostly food, though with Kili I do use toys as well. But even food is not the same. She goes nuts for Brie cheese (and people make jokes when I bring it to class... Expensive French cheese for dog training!). She also LOVES Kraft singles slices. Those are a more manageable price. Peanut butter in a little jar works well too. And I will use raw green tripe in a container as well for exercises where I want her driving ahead.

     

    Have fun! We are hooked. Our goal for 2014 is to start trailing with Kili.

  14. We have always crated in the bedroom so that the dogs can be with us at night. However, we have so far only had one-level homes so the difference between being crated in the bedroom and the living room isn't all that significant. With two dogs now, it makes more sense to crate Kili in the bedroom anyway since Summit spends most of his day sleeping on our bed. Being crated in the bedroom means that Kili actually has company. You know, for when she's sleeping.

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