Clicker Training Questions

[Guest HeatherLee]

Hi everyone, I just adopted a sweetheart 3yo, small, brindle male named Gambler about a month ago from Greyhound Pets of Arizona.. and aside from getting involved in a fight that scarred him pretty badly (long story, he's doing really well now) he's been the most amazing little guy. He listens really well and doesn't have any bad habits except for pulling on his leash (he LOVES walks). I'd really like to start clicker training him to eventually help with this problem and of course teach him to sit, stay, etc... so my questions are..

 

How long do you spend on each session? (and how many per day?) And, how long do you teach a behavior until you move on to the next?

 

Thanks

[3greytjoys]

Congratulations, and welcome to Greytalk!

 

I try to keep sessions very short <5 minutes each. Maybe 2 or 3 sessions a day, unless the dog is frustrated, then I'll stop for the day after one session. Every dog is different, but I usually work on one behavior until they "get it". If it's not working well, I move on to an easier behavior.

 

I find that our sensitive Greyhound breed learns best when catching them doing something right naturally, then adding a word to their action. Example: Have yummy treat ready and watch for hound to lie down, then say "down" while they are doing that action. Treat immediately. It doesn't take long for them to learn. A clicker can be used if desired. You could practice "Gambler come" with every meal, and throughout day with treats. Also, I've always taught my dogs to "come" to a whistle (in case of outside emergency escape). A whistle sound carries much further than my voice.

 

I use a "Sense-ation" harness that does a great job of helping to slow down new fosters when teaching heeling. http://www.softouchconcepts.com/index.php/product-53/sense-ation-harness

 

Below is one of my previous posts re: teaching sit.

 

"Greys are built differently from other dogs. Many Greyhounds can "sit" but some Greys may have had a racing injury that makes it painful. Those hounds should not be asked to "sit". Some hounds can "sit" for very short periods (their legs might shake, which is a clue to not force it for long periods). Other hounds are fine sitting for a slightly longer periods. Teach on carpet (not bare floor).

Try to set your hound up for success. Please do not use physical force with Greyhounds.

Here are two methods that can work well for Greyhounds.

1. When a hound is lying down, offer a special treat by showing it to hound, then slowly lift treat up above hound's head. Some hounds will gently move into a partial sit position as their head follows the treat. Once they are in position, immediately say the word "sit" as you give treat and verbally praise, praise, praise. After they connect the feeling with the word "sit" begin asking for a "sit" daily (before they are in sit position), but not for long sessions. They get bored very easily.

2. (My favorite method.) Watch for the hound to walk over to lie down naturally. (This is easy with Greys!)
Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to hound.
Once hound's rear end touches the carpet or bed, you move in to stand directly in front of the dog's body. Your body is blocking the hound (into a natural sit) while preventing dog from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" and treat the dog, and praise, praise, praise.
Do this whenever the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit" in no time!

If desired: A clicker can be used if you want to "click" immediately when the hound's rear end touches the ground (or dog bed), but just treating with food works fine in most cases.

I've had a number of hounds that do a side sit vs. a straight sit. This is fine as far as I'm concerned considering a Greyhound's body design. Many times they will eventually do a straight sit on their own if it's comfortable for them. Other hounds I teach a straight sit from the start. Adapting with gentle, positive training is very important with Greys."

[Guest KatyC]

Hi,

 

I have had mine for about a month as well and I have been using the clicker just over a week now.

I am taking it slowly, after asking advice on here I started by just saying her name and clicking and giving the treat to get her used to the concept, then I taught her to touch my other hand (without the treat or clicker in) to get the click and treat using the comman touch as well. That is as far as I have got! I have tried a few other things, like whilst she is laying down and when she comes and to watch me but I'm not sure she is grasping those yet!!

 

After people's advice on here I tend to just do 2 or 3 minutes at a time sometimes less, a couple of days.

Good luck and let me know how you get on and any things that work well for you

 

People on here have been very helpful regarding clicker advice for me

[a_daerr]

I like clicker training because it helps a brand new dog mark the behavior. However, for pulling on leash, clicker is probably not the best/easiest way to train. My method for loose-leash walking is to first get your guy used to being in the heel position (immediately to your lefthand side, facing forward). Reward and give him treats for being there. Then, if he starts pulling when you walk, either (1) stop dead and don't move forward until he gets back into a heel, or (2) change directions. Once he gets back into the heel position, reward him again with a treat and move forward. In the beginning, it's going to be a lot of stopping and starting. I used to walk Henry on-leash around the perimeter of my backyard first, then we moved to more distracting areas like the walking trail and the pet store. If Gambler is a serious puller, you may want to start with a harness. It will give you more control and prevent the dog from injuring his neck. It is also important to ALWAYS be consistent. If at any time, he knows that pulling will get him to his desired destination, the habit will be much harder to break.

 

As for sit, down, and stay, those things will come with time. I recommend at least a basic obedience class to get a feel for the right and wrong ways to train. Since your guy had a previous traumatic experience with another dog, an obedience class in a controlled setting where he is constantly being rewarded should also give him more confidence around other dogs.