Just Got Bit! Need Advice For Newbie Please

[Newtogreys]

Hi all,

Have had our boy about 6 months now (first greyhound, 8th dog) and have had some incidents that have led up to a bite in the face today.

He is 4 years old and he was describe to us by the adoption agency as somewhat bold, fearless and able to be an only dog. He is not affectionate and does not seem to enjoy petting from us (lip licking, turning his head away, etc). Funny thing is, he is ALL about strangers, licking them, nibbling them, melting into them and begging for petting.

 

Since we have had him, multiple times, he has growled, Jumped up and charged at us like he was going to bite. One time it was when he was laying by the table (not asleep) and my mom accidentally pulled out the chair to sit down and bumped him. He jumped up growling and barking and kind of charged forward like he was going to bite but didn't. Another time she was trying to put his turn out muzzle on and he did the same thing. He has done it with me multiple times when I have put ointment on a scratch or even been looking at a scratch on his leg. He has also exhibited this behavior when we have accidentally stepped on him. The other day him and I were walking and he stopped dead in front of me so I accidentally walked into the back of him. He verbally went off, snarling and lunged at me and when I tried to walked toward him to pet him while I was saying "It's ok buddy" he growled at me and wouldn't let me come near him.

 

A few days ago, my 6 year old niece who he seems to adore was over and did a cartwheel and landed on his foot and he had the same reaction. Today, I made the mistake of leaning near him to pick something up and he jumped up, growling and barking like usual only this time he bit my face drawing blood. Just puncture wounds. Hurt my heart more than anything so I went to the bathroom to clean it up and had a good cry. When I returned from the bathroom, I went to try and talk and pet him and he growled at me.

 

I am confident there is nothing physically wrong as he just had a physical and blood work. He eats great and the only health issues seem to be hookworms which we are treating and food allergies. I am concerned because while we can control leaning over him, things are going to happen by accident like us bumping into to him or stepping on him and now he has progressed to biting.

 

This is a bit scary and I am so sad about this. No dog we have ever has ever bit us and I am starting to feel like I have to walk on egg shells around him to avoid setting him off. Any advice?

Thank you in advance!

[Guest Cilla]

Hi, I'm sorry for what happened, it is scarying and it makes you feel bad. I don't have any real advice but when we first got Max it happened quite the same thing. He was on the sofa (awake) and I leant on him in order to pick up a book, he growled and snapped at my face. I was really scared and discouraged. Nowadays, after 3 and a half years, I can say he's the most reliable dog ever, he wouldn't growl or snap to anybody of the family for any reason. I believe at the time he snapped at me (he also growled several times because we bumped in him or got too close to him while he was sleeping) he was just not trusting me/us yet.

 

Six months is not a short time but with rescue dogs we don't know what happened before they were saved, so it can take some time for them to really settle.

 

I know it's hard but try to let him a bit on his own, let him search for you when he feels it but don't pet him if he looks unconfortable.

Try to make some activity he likes, long walks, some simple training if he's interested in food. Be patient, I do not see a really aggressive dog in your description but just an anxious and nervous one.

[Newtogreys]

I forgot a few more details. He has also growled and barked at my husband like this twice when bumping into him. He also growls with resources such as food and toys.

Thanks

[greysmom]

There are numerous threads here in Training and Behavior with strategies for resource guarding (including food and space) and sleep startling. You can search for them, though there are two related threads near the bottom of this first page.

 

Without actually seeing the incidents and the dog and how you, the humans, relate to him, it's very hard to diagnose what's wrong. At this point, since the problem is widespread with him, I would recommend a meeting with a certified animal behaviorist who can make those observations and give you some good, postive reinforcement based strategies for working with your dog.

 

You should also be reaching out to your adoption group and letting them know what has happened. They may have some insight into his behavior, and/or some resources to help you.

 

Only you can decide how much of a danger this dog is if he remains in your home. I would urge you to really consider if this is the right dog for you, and if *you* are the right home for this dog. There's no shame in admitting a placement is just not working out - it happens more often than you might think - and returning him now, before he has a really serious bite on his record (not negating what he's done to you at all), may be the best for everyone involved.

 

Good luck!

[Batmom]

What greysmom said.

 

It does sound a bit like he is a dog who might do better in a quieter home, but I can only go by your words. A behaviorist right there with you would be much better value.

 

I'm sorry you were bitten -- scary and distressing at the best of times.

[Charlies_Dad]

I am sorry that you got bit, that is scary and as you say heartbreaking because it's obvious you love your pup even through all these events. Some Greys need more time to settle, some are right at home right away. On thing that does stand out to me in your post and please do not take this the wrong way, you mention "bumping" him a number of times. Not being an expert however this may have unsettled him more each time and now his reaction has escalated. I know when these pups are young and still with their pack before racing, this happens often (other pups bumping/stepping on each other) and they react similarly thus you see scars on a number of pups. Is there any way to provide him a safer place to lay down that would avoid getting bumped? It may allow him to gain back the security he is seeking.

[JohnF]

This dog must be returned and rehomed to a quieter and older family. Not every adoption is a success and there is often no blame on owner or dog in it; you just won't ever click.

You CANNOT have him around rumbustuous little kids any more.

Sorry, I know it will be like a bereavement, but i think with life being so short you just have to do it.

[GeorgeofNE]

I can't imagine any circumstances where I had accidentally stepped on my dog multiple times in six months. When your dog prefers strangers to you, the honeymoon is over. I agree with JohnF. This is not the right dog for your household.

[Guest Lyra]

I don't have a Greyhound yet, but I've had many dogs. My advice would also be to return him and try again. Once you lose trust in a dog it's hard to get it back. Your dog can sense it too. Better to give him another try in a better-suited home before it's too late for him. It's okay that it didn't work out, you just didn't get the right fit.

 

I will add, usually when someone tells me a dog is "bold," I take it as a dog who has no problem telling you he likes things a certain way. It doesn't make him a bad dog, just one that not everyone is equipped to handle.

[NeylasMom]

You said there is nothing wrong with him physically and then listed 2 medical issues he is having. So resolving those would be a primary concern.

 

Second, if you want to keep him, you need to get yourself a good person to evaluate him and give you a management and training plan. Veterinary behaviorist would be ideal in case medication would be helpful for him, then a certified behaviorist, otherwise a force free trainer who does behavior consults and is experienced with aggression. If you tell me where you live I am always happy to dig up some recommendations for people in your area if that's the route you want to go.

 

I would not rely on advice from your group or online sources for an aggression issue where the dog is biting as you may get misguided advice based on outdated dominance theories that can actually lead to increased aggression. A certified professional is your best bet, especially since this is now a liability issue as well.

[Newtogreys]

Thanks for your responses. You have given us a lot to think about!

[KickReturn]

Just read this and my honest reaction was you stepped on, bumped into, cartwheeled beside, bumped with a chair, leaned over, walked into this dog how many times??? My current grey is a cream puff who seems incapable of any trace of assertive behaviour and I would never let any of those things happen to or near him and would be very upset if any family members were so careless. There is enough dangerous things that can happen that we can't control. At the very least we owe it to these dogs to be highly conscientious about what we can control.

 

And even if all these mishaps were not avoidable and perhaps that is the case, this is clearly a dog that requires specialized care and protection.

 

I vote to return. There is no reason you should have to take any risk. There are many greyhounds looking for homes who will be angels with you.

 

For those who find my assessment harsh I do apologize. But readers of this website know of my extraordinary bond and relationship with the late great Hester and he started his life with me showing exactly the same behaviour. He was a bounce that was returned for being aloof and aggressive. He full on attacked me when I crossed the line at the 3 month mark. I was too embarrassed to ever discuss it here or anywhere else. But it taught me about that particular dog's requirement for complete respect. At some point I'll tell the full story. Still gives me shivers.

[3greytjoys]

This Greyhound most likely feels threatened, and is trying to communicate his extreme discomfort in all of these situations. Greyhounds are a highly sensitive breed. They need respectful, protected treatment from humans to even begin to slowly trust humans in a new home/family environment. Some hounds have had a more difficult history than others (possible previous injuries, emotional or medical struggles, etc.). BTW, a long duration with heavy infestation of hookworms can cause internal pain/discomfort.

 

Every dog (and human) deserves their own personal bubble space in which to live comfortably without fear of being bumped, stepped on, rolled over, etc. Try to catch and reward his natural behaviors: e.g., teach a "bed" cue by watching for him to walk towards his dog bed, then toss treats on his bed praising with "good bed". Later, when he gets underfoot in the kitchen or too close to humans' foot path or furniture, happily cue (+ reward) him to "go to (his) bed", so he can watch humans from a safe distance.

 

One of our hounds took me two years to earn his trust in me.

He was also extremely wary of having paws handled, minor injuries inspected, etc. I snapped a photo to enlarge on a computer screen to inspect minor wounds more closely. His ears were very sensitive to touch, so we were careful to avoid pressing against them when taking a collar or muzzle on/off. Nail trims were done while he was standing up in a different room. One person fed non-stop treats through his muzzle while I trimmed nails (lit with a head-lamp to avoid cutting a quick).

 

That hound's thick, cushy dog beds were placed in a protected FAR corner, away from all human foot traffic paths, in all the rooms we use most.

No one was allowed near his dog beds, as these were considered his "dog safe space zones".

The golden dog rule: "Let resting dogs lie undisturbed". This is especially important for recently retired racing Greyhounds; they've never had their resting spaces intruded upon.

We waited for our hound to stand up and walk away from his bed before even attempting to pet him. This respectful human behavior allowed our hound to understand that he had a safe place in his own home, and he could trust humans to leave him alone until he was standing up and ready for attention.

 

We use baby-gates to help keep all our hounds safely separated and protected from visitors.

 

Growls should not be scolded. Dogs growl as their communication warning that they are feeling threatened. If scolded for a growl, they quickly learn to skip a growl and go directly to a bite to get their serious point across. Humans should respect a dog's growl by backing away from the dog.

 

If human needs to retrieve an unsafe item (bone, toy, etc.) from the dog, try the following distraction techniques:

1.) Go to another room, shake a treat bag, or drop a scoop of kibble in dog's bowl, or start an electric can opener, or squeak a favorite toy while happily calling the dog to you. When dog arrives, offer a high value meat treats, toy etc. Someone can quickly retrieve the unsafe item the dog left behind.

2.) If dog doesn't budge from the original room, toss a path of meat treats out of dog's reach, just far enough so dog has to stand up and walk away from the unsafe item (to go eat the special meat treats).

3.) Another option: If you can follow through with a real walk, etc., get a leash and happily call dog to go for a walk, or car ride, or whatever excites the dog most.

Once you remove the unsafe item from dog's reach (including if hes standing up on hind legs), be careful to avoid giving him any overly prized resource that he's likely to protect (no bones or rawhide, etc.). Teach "leave it" and "drop it" cues with low value items.

 

Above all, please do NOT dominately challenge a dog. Dominance has been decades long proven to increase aggression, and/or create aggression where there was no previous aggression in dogs. Any training with Greyhounds should be using positive reward-based techniques. No physical force/manipulations. (Run fast and far away from any so called dog trainers who follow Cesar M.)

 

When leash walking dogs, safest walking position is with dog's right shoulder next to human's left thigh (if in USA since pedestrians walk against traffic -- this position keeps dogs farthest away from street and cars). Keep leash short enough so dog is not tempted to walk in front of human, or criss-cross in front of human. Leash should be held short but with slack, so dog does not feel constant neck pressure from leash. It's fine to give dog longer leash when stopping to sniff or eliminate.

 

All that said, if you're not willing or able to hire a professional certified animal behaviorist (using only reward-based methods), I'd agree with others to seriously consider returning this Greyhound to his adoption group. Honestly, considering your limited information posted, a Greyhound might not be a best or most tolerant breed for your family.

 

I wish you a speedy recovery. Racing Greyhounds are reared so differently than pet dog breeds, Greys are not for everyone. Good luck with whatever you decide.

[KickReturn]

3greytjoys - excellent summary of the proper approach and attitude that IMO should be used for all greyhounds until that dog proves that a more casual approach is OK with them. When I hear about these types of careless mishaps, I place some blame with the agencies that likely understate the serious part of adopting a greyhound.

[Newtogreys]

3greytjoys-

 

Thank you so much for all the information and for sharing about your dog! We have an appt with a behaviorist and have implemented all of your suggestions.

 

Although it doesn't seem like it from my post, it is just myself and my husband in our home. My mom and niece were just visiting when we had issues occur. I am learning so much from this forum and am thankful to the folks who are willing to share their information and knowledge. It's how newbies like myself learn how to care for these special dogs.

 

Our first concern is for our hounds sense of security and happiness. We are dedicated to trying to make this work based on the behaviorist recommendations. BTW, love the headlamp idea for nails. Could you share what brand head lamp and where you purchased it?

[3greytjoys]

You're welcome. I have several (unmarked) bright LED head-lamps (attached to stretchy straps) to use during night walks and for nail trims, etc. They can be found at general hardware stores, Amazon, or home center stores, etc. During use, please do not turn on a head-lamp for nail trims until your face/lamp is directed away from the hound's face/head. Some hounds might fear a glimpse of direct light. Begin by using a head-lamp during fun evening walks, dark yard poop pick-ups, etc. to help desensitize your boy to the light before attempting to touch him while wearing it.

 

BTW, many newly retired Greyhounds (sight hounds) freeze when trying to adjust to neighborhood walks. Sometimes it's a sign of feeling overwhelmed with too many life changes at once, or seeing a scary object even 1/2 mile away, or an unfamiliar noise scares them. When dogs highly stress or fear something, their typical reactions are to freeze, fight, or flight (trying to bolt away from the scary object or noise). If Greyhounds freeze during walks, it often helps to carry treats, happily and gently guide the dog in a circle or two then proceed forward. Sometimes it's best to simply turn around and take the dog back home, then reevaluate the hound's overall stressors and possibly take a few steps back to reduce the dog's world until he feels more confident to willingly expand. Greyhounds are independent thinkers and are notorious for "shutting down" if feeling overwhelmed/stressed or bored. Stress is cumulative and can build from odd things like loud TV movies, vacuum cleaners, loud voices, thunderstorms, etc. Also, the concept of learning family pet obedience is completely foreign to racing Greyhounds, thus my prior comment to watch for/catch their natural actions, teach a verbal cue with rewards for those desired natural behaviors.

 

As one who survived a life-threatening dog bite (different large breed) as a 5 year old child, I'd like to reiterate that your niece and other visitors should be separated from your dog by a baby-gate or crate, etc. Also, never let anyone place an infant baby carrier on any dog's floor level.

 

Good luck with your behaviorist. Please let us know how things go with your boy.

 

[Guest fannysmom]

Sorry but I think you were not well matched. They need to find him a home where he can be kind of a grumpy old man.

[Guest nicky604]

How are things going now?

I'm curious to know what happened too and what strategies the behaviourist had.