Henry The Akc Greyhound

[Booker_Aye]

Well, Henry has settled in with a vengeance. He is blossoming, starting to play with Fred and Kimba as much as they will allow, learning the house schedule, snuggling in bed, loving trips in the car, especially to all his friends at the vet, and generally being the sweetest greyhound you could imagine.

 

He can open doorknobs with his paws. This is a problem, but I will have to figure out what to about it. Twice now, he and his partner in crime, Fred, have gotten into the dining room through a closed door and scavenged boxes of dog biscuits and bird pellets. The resultant attacks of diarrhea were very messy! There isn't any food stored in the dining room any more...

 

My only true complaint is that Henry loves to rear up on his hind legs, put his paws on my shoulders, and wash my face. In fact, he gnaws on my face. When I get home is the time for this behavior. He is so delighted that he cannot contain himself. This is flattering to me, but also painful, as he punches me in the face with his paws when he tries to jump up on me, scratches me in the face with his nails, makes me drop whatever I am holding, and is generally quite a handful. Can someone suggest a training regimen that would be effective to teach Henry that I adore him too, but please, no jumping?

 

 

 

 

[Batmom]

Does he like toys, and is it safe to give him one when the others are there? You could hand him a toy instead.

 

If you can be strong, it generally works to turn your back on the dog and refuse to acknowledge/interact until he cuts it out. That can take a looooooooooooong time. Somewhat easier is to teach him to do something else -- fetch a toy if he'll fetch, spin in place, etc.

[Booker_Aye]

Well, our routine when I get home is generally to get to the back door as quickly as possible and let everyone out for a quick p&p. Getting from the front door to the back door is problematic at this point. I cannot come in through the back door and just let them out because there is a rather steep ramp to the back door that was put in for the dogs. It is not human friendly.

 

Henry loves bully sticks, and I suppose I could keep some in the basement and give him one as I walk in. Fred and Kimba would like to have theirs, too, of course, which is all right with me. I think I will give that a try, Batmom, and see if it works. If I ignore Henry, he jumps on my back and his nails tend to tear holes in, or pull threads from, my work clothing, which is expensive to replace.

[a_daerr]

Oh boy... This sounds just like my AKC boy, Truman! He's much more "springy" than my retired racer. He bucks like a pony, punches, and gives kisses (or rather, what he considers kisses... usually, there's lots of teeth involved). Although we never got past it 100%, it helps to just ignore and turn your back to give him a chance to calm down. Only pet him when he has "four on the floor." If he rears up, I turn my back again and ignore. Another thing we do when Truman is really wound up is "down" and "sit." For example, when I come to the front door, he always throws himself at the door and barks. We've made a little progress by standing on the other side of the door and making him sit before opening the door. Most of the time, he can only sit for a second or two, but we're working on it. Good luck! Those AKC boys are really something else!

[Batmom]

Not sure I would do food as soon as you walk in. Food is exciting, and that could complicate matters a bit.

[carronstar]

My Morgaine was a jumper and kisser, and at close to 90 lbs, it was a bit much. She also had killer SA so my getting home was a big deal for her. I learned that as I got to the door and was unlocking it, I had to start to tell her "down" and then let myself in and turn my back. It was a gradual improvement but it did improve.

[Time4ANap]

We met an AKC Greyhound puppy a year or two ago at the place where we board Rocket. He french kissed both of us. Apparently, he still does this with everyone he meets. Talk about being caught off guard......

 

Glad to hear the Henry is doing so well.

[Feisty49]

Not sure I would do food as soon as you walk in. Food is exciting, and that could complicate matters a bit.

 

And most of us consider food a reward for good behavior so it could be confusing to him.

 

I don't have a jumper but if I imagine my girl was a jumper, I know I would push her down and turn away... continually. Jumping dogs and face licking dogs irk me and it would be so unacceptable to me in my own dog that I know I would so almost anything to get rid of the behavior.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Feisty49

[GreytHoundPoet]

My oldest former racer used to be like this. It drove me nuts. I teach my hounds the difference between a hug (gentle and only when invited) and jumping. Anyways, he just jumped and knocked me over. He enjoys playing with toys when he is excited. So, I started keeping toys by the door and as soon as I walked in I tossed the toy away from me. He'd lunge after it and start bouncing around playing. After a while I was able to stop throwing the toy because, as soon as he got excited, he'd grab a toy and start bouncing all over by himself. All I did was redirect him from jumping (inappropriate) to showing his excitement by playing (appropriate). He is 9 and still does this. When people come over they think that he doesn't care that they are there since they are greeted by 6 hounds at the kid gate and a show: Lucius bouncing all over the place with a toy. I just tell them he's showing his excitement, which he is.

 

My Ibizans both "hug" and "give kisses". I would turn from them and pointedly ignore their rambunctious jumping (sometimes give them a loud disapproving noise). I also taught them an appropriate time to jump up, gently. I would push them off me and turn if they jumped too hard. I would praise them when they were gentle. I give them a signal by putting my hands, palm up, in front of me to catch their paws and saying "YAY!" (don't ask....it is a Beezer thing ). We dance and hug that way.

Edited May 8, 2013 by GreytHoundPoet

[cleptogrey]

i particularly like working w/ mary elizabeth simpson at portchester obedience club in white plains.i've know her for over 20 years, she's very resourceful.

pm me if you want more info. their web site is teachrover.com

mary elizabeth worked extensively w/ felix starting at 5 months, so she knows greys. the akc guys seem highly spirited- i love that!

[Brandiandwe]

Brandi does this. I've been ignoring and backing away then lavishing attention when she's doing the right thing. I'm going to try either toys or teaching her to spin.

[Guest FullMetalFrank]

I have a jumper/nibbler/kisser, too, and he is VERY strong and I am not so much; so it's been imperative that was brought under control. Most effective approach we have used is to give him something else to do. Instead of "no jumping" we use "4 on the floor" , having him wait, things like that. I don't think dogs understand the concept of negativity. They respond better to "do this" and it boosts confidence, too; which also helps improve behavior. Look at me, I'm a dog psychiatrist all of the sudden Who knew?

[Guest Giselle]

Removal of attention (turning your back) is usually not very effective for newbie dogs. The reason is because you yourself - just your body - is exciting enough.

1) Instead, you have to walk out of the room entirely. Open the door --> Dog rushes forward towards you --> Immediately walk out and shut the door. DENY access!! Open the door --> Dog rushes towards you --> Immediately step out and shut the door on the dog. After about 5 times, the dog stops bolting forward. He will inhibit himself, teaching himself impulse control. Then, you can open the door --> Dog waits calmly a few feet away --> Toss a food reward behind the dog. It's important to reward him AWAY from you to reinforce the idea that staying back is the goal. If he stays back, continue to walk into the house and continue to toss treats behind him. If he ever makes forward movement towards you, immediately walk out, shut the door on him, and repeat the process.

 

2) Now, you should be able to walk through the door and into the house while your dog stands back, without an explicit verbal command. He should be doing this automatically. Once you're inside the house and the dog is standing back waiting, you can ask for a Sit/Down. Then, you can reward him with pets and loving and affection.

 

This process teaches the dog that 1) an open door means "Stay back and wait" 2) to self-inhibit 3) that only calm behaviors get rewarded with love and play. This also inherently teaches the dog never to bolt outside and translates very well to teaching other impulse control behaviors. The key to great dogs is to preserve their enthusiasm and energy with impulse control and clear criteria.

[Guest june]

Can you gate him so he can see you come in the door but not reach you? Then you would have a barrier between you until he has calmed down and greeted you nicely. Don't know your layout but if you can this might help.

[Guest iconsmum]

Removal of attention (turning your back) is usually not very effective for newbie dogs. The reason is because you yourself - just your body - is exciting enough.

1) Instead, you have to walk out of the room entirely. Open the door --> Dog rushes forward towards you --> Immediately walk out and shut the door. DENY access!! Open the door --> Dog rushes towards you --> Immediately step out and shut the door on the dog. After about 5 times, the dog stops bolting forward. He will inhibit himself, teaching himself impulse control. Then, you can open the door --> Dog waits calmly a few feet away --> Toss a food reward behind the dog. It's important to reward him AWAY from you to reinforce the idea that staying back is the goal. If he stays back, continue to walk into the house and continue to toss treats behind him. If he ever makes forward movement towards you, immediately walk out, shut the door on him, and repeat the process.

 

2) Now, you should be able to walk through the door and into the house while your dog stands back, without an explicit verbal command. He should be doing this automatically. Once you're inside the house and the dog is standing back waiting, you can ask for a Sit/Down. Then, you can reward him with pets and loving and affection.

 

This process teaches the dog that 1) an open door means "Stay back and wait" 2) to self-inhibit 3) that only calm behaviors get rewarded with love and play. This also inherently teaches the dog never to bolt outside and translates very well to teaching other impulse control behaviors. The key to great dogs is to preserve their enthusiasm and energy with impulse control and clear criteria.

 

yup. this.

[Booker_Aye]

I will give this a try. The logistics are a little challenging, because I am walking up from the basement, and I don't want to fall down backwards! In addition, Henry is not the only dog of the house. Fred is the best behaved greyhound I know, and would NEVER jump. Kimba used to be a terrible jumper, I thought, until I met Henry and found how what a terrible jumper could really be. So both Kimba and Henry will hopefully benefit from this routine.

[3greytjoys]

He can open doorknobs with his paws. This is a problem, but I will have to figure out what to about it. Twice now, he and his partner in crime, Fred, have gotten into the dining room through a closed door and scavenged boxes of dog biscuits and bird pellets. The resultant attacks of diarrhea were very messy! There isn't any food stored in the dining room any more...

 

If you haven't tried child safety lock covers on problematic door knobs or levers, that may be enough to deter him. Watch to ensure he doesn't chew them apart. Slide levers can be added to upper part of doors.

 

Your story reminded me of this Greyhound/lurcher video:

[cleptogrey]

that's one clever dog you have. have you tried to get him focused on obedience training? it does wonders, sorta poops them out mentally and even after the session is completed there is always homework and practice. i have found that sometimes a structured syllabus will even things out. it takes a while to work up to agility but rally-o is lots of fun, good for once you get your basics under your belt. i'm sure once he's busy learing things many aspects of his energy release will calm down. ultra-dog proof the house or crate, that's what i would do. vittals vault can't be borken into and the 5 gallon tubs w/ snap on lids from home depot are really difficult to pry open! a simple eye hook up high will help keep those doors closed, i personally HATE baby proof latches, they drive me crazy! did you check out the new schedule for portchester. if it's too far i have some contacts for super good trainers up in dutchess county. pm me if you wish.

[Booker_Aye]

Wow. I have always heard that lurchers were the smartest thieves going. What I love is that Red the Lurcher not only liberated himself, he then liberated the dogs he likes -- not everyone, just his best buds. Scary!

 

Obedience training for Henry would be a fine plan. I do have an appointment scheduled with a trainer recommended by our vet, who comes to the house for a 90 minute visit. It's quite expensive, but I did just want some pointers for improving my coming home experience. Port Chester is all the way on the other side of the county, about a 45 minute drive each way, and further than I am looking to go for dog training unless it's absolutely necessary.

 

When I got home on Friday evening, I eventually discovered that Henry (it must be Henry, because these things NEVER happened until he came) had gone upstairs to my bedroom, shredded "Kept in the Dark" by Wilkie Collins -- why that particular one attracted him, I don't know -- and dragged a pillow from my daughter's bedroom down the hall into my bedroom, tearing the hem portion of the pillow case almost completely off in the process. Now my bed has four pillows -- wouldn't you think that would be enought even for a big dog like Henry? Grrrrrrr. Today the doors to all the rooms are closed, so we will see how he does. I fully expect to come home to doors scored with greyhound clawmarks.

 

I will look into the vittals vault or the 5 gallon snap on lidded tubs from Home Depot; otherwise I know that one day Henry will get back into the dining room and open the present kibble bin, which has a snap handle on it that I suspect wouldn't slow him down at all. I used to keep the kibble bin in the kitchen, but no more!

 

Henry also sings in his sleep -- a deep, low singing tone that is really beautiful. He is the first of the five greyhounds I have had to do this. Wonderful.

[a_daerr]

I'm sorry to make fun, but Truman also does all those things!

 

Tore up my copy of "Greyhounds for Dummies"

Drags bedroom pillows off my bed and takes them wherever he pleases (sometimes out into the yard)

Has raided/destroyed two food containers, creating long cracks in both of their lids

Clawed up my brand new front door by slamming his massive paws against it everytime we come home

 

Do you know your boy's AKC lineage by any chance?

[DogGolden]

I doubt I'm skilled enough to teach my dog this trick yet, but I saw a youtube video where a woman taught her greyhounds the command "perimeter," which is the commands "back up," "down," and "stay" combined. Now she can say it from behind the closed door and all her hounds back up and lay down until she releases them. Amazing!