ahicks51

If they're like other dogs (should be), 42. Minerva had 43. Had to have a canine extracted, and one of the lower teeth in the front was chipped. So, down two but only one less than expected!

As the amount of cyanocobalamin is so small for sufficiency (and there's so much in a single B12 tablet), is there any reason not to try dietary supplementation before going to injections? Of course, injection will work much faster- but should a long-term solution include supplementation, either as tablets or cobalamin-rich feed? I note from the USDA that beef heart has 8.55 mcg/100 grams- about 20x as much as poultry.

While generally true, note that some heartworm meds are effective on certain types of worms. Specifically, while also controlling heartworm disease, it also controls "roundworms, hookworms and whipworms in dogs." (According to Novartis, the manufacturer.) May or may not be a consideration, depending upon whether you have hounds coming and going.

"Normal" values for a grey can be close to the detection limits of the labs performing the test- there's simply not enough precision. IDEXX and the other commercial lab (I forget the name) perform almost all of the lab tests for veterinary purposes. However, Michigan State (which used to do the test by dialysis) and Hemopet in California *may* have certain advantages over traditional testing if it is required. The MSU lab also has a veterinary endocrinologist who, for a small fee (about $5) will offer a professional interpretation based on sighthound figures as to the recommended course of action, if any is required. Dr. Dodds at Hemopet will do the same thing, and I think it's already included in the lab fee. She knows greyhounds very well. if MSU is back to doing the test by dialysis, then I'd suggest going with MSU. The problem with both labs is that if your vet doesn't use them already, it'll be up to you to submit the sample. Vet does the draw and spins the sample down, then you take the sample and mail (Priority Mail, box-in-a-box to prevent crushing, no ice required- unless things have changed) along with a check for the lab fees. They fax the results to your vet. But! I agree with the others- the coat, the flaky skin, etc. are characteristic of a dog fresh off the track. Wait 6 months, feed fish oil capsules if you like, and re-assess then whether testing is required.

The only thing I can add to what Batmom has to say is after you put the baby socks on, put a bit of tape around the sock, maybe 1" from the top. Then fold the edge down over the tape so they can't get to it. Not, I suppose, that he'll be in any mood to go chewing at it! He's probably tired from his adventure. Good to hear he's back!

Most (all?) large breed dogs have increased susceptibility to osteosarcoma. While it is unfortunate that greys- with their big, long legs- have such an increased incidence of the disease, it is worth noting that due to improved nutrition and the level of prophylactic care (vaccinations, regular vet visits, etc.), dogs that are cared for by well-meaning owners are living longer than ever. Additional improvements have been made in terms of treatments that are specific to osteo; I seem to recall Dr. Cuoto's protocols are such that one-year survival rates are around 62% when amputation is used in conjunction with chemo. My point is this: every living organism has to die of *something*. Osteo happens to be present in greys- and other breeds- at a disproportionate rate. That it occurs more often at a greater age is, in a sad way, encouraging as it implies they are not succumbing to other disorders. Look at the nasty disorders in some other breeds, particularly from "puppy mills." While there may be a genetic predisposition towards bone cancer, it is probably not environmental. Or, if it is, it may have already been "set." I'm one of those folks who thinks that fluoride may be a prediposing environmental factor with respect to bone cancer; we feed our dogs reverse osmosis water, which has very low levels of fluoride. However, as the fluoride would have been incorporated into their bones at a young age, when they were back on the farm, this may not matter. (As an aside, the drugs that prevent osteoporosis reduce the amount of "cycling," in which calcium is removed from bone, and returned to bone, so what little I know about the subject implies that bone composition may change throughout life and, therefore, reducing fluoride intake may affect that- or not, as fluoride binds much more tightly than calcium. Plus, like I said, I'm a wacko that thinks fluoride *may* be responsible for *some* bone cancers.) Anyway- I certainly don't wish to minimize the impact of osteo, as it certainly has struck dogs at a distressingly early age. It's a horrible disease, but one that can sometimes be managed. Moreover, there are advances on the horizon with respect to treatments and even vaccines that can be used to get dogs to live longer. If we can do for osteo what has been done for melanoma (now in late experimental stages), we can improve the outlook even more.

I keep "hearing" about turkey necks...I haven't read anything about them...so are you all talking about raw turkey necks??? Yes. Yes. It's cheaper if you don't buy the whole bird, though. Yes. The way we live- so far divested from the farm- it's sometimes a bit odd to think that the animals from which our charges are descended were not, in fact, vegetarians that grazed on kibble trees sometimes. But the dentition does indicate that they are, in fact, carnivores. Cooked poultry (and beef, and presumably other animals as well) bones- NEVER feed. They are brittle, and form sharp, penetrating shards that can be life-threatening. Uncooked bones are generally safe. We've feed turkey necks up to 7 days/week (usually half a tom turkey neck plus a couple of chunks of beef heart), and they love it. The teeth look great. In terms of potential health issues- there sure are, same as with any meat product. They should be fresh, thawed (versus frozen and therefore capable of shattering teeth), thawed in the refrigerator (or in water), same as any meat prepared for human consumption- except for the cooking bit. There's more in the "Food and dietary discussion" forum, down the hall and to the right. Read up on it and get educated as to the risks and benefits, particularly if they are being fed as anything more than an occasional snack.

It can take several weeks for severe allergies to clear the system such that symptoms disappear. And, of course, if the sensitizing agent is re-introduced in ANY quantity- back to square one. If I can offer an opinion- I think the situation is being overanalyzed. Try something basic, like that which your vet has suggested- but instead of potatoes, use rice. So, a diet of boiled hamburger and cooked rice, mixed about 50:50. See if there is any improvement in the stool- if it's dietary, it should be apparent within 24-48 hours. Build on that. Lots of greys come off the track and present with poorly de-watered stool. Some of these are due to parasites, some due to allergies- but most are due to the diet. Additional fiber in the form of pumpkin or beet pulp will result in improvement for a good portion of these animals. Drop me a PM (I think you have enough messages right now) if you'd like a box with some beet pulp to try.

While there can be medical causes to the runny stool, it's frequently dietary. If it clears up after 2-3 days on a raw diet, it's probably dietary. We have a foster who has the same problem. We fix it by adding 1-2 tablespoons of beet pulp to every meal; he is fed kibble only. The relatively small amounts of beet pulp turn it from pudding to firm- it's remarkable. You should be able to get beet pulp at any good farm supply store; it's commonly used as feed for ruminants. We get the pelletized stuff and break it up by hand (with shears- it's tough stuff) to the size of kibbles, or he eats around them. We've also powdered it in the blender- noisy, but it works. I understand there's also shredded stuff available. Beet pulp and other fiber-rich feed components work by sopping up extra water in the gut; feces are 60-90% water, and anything over that pushes it into the realm of "pudding." I don't know if greys have particularly short intestines (as is implied by the greyhound "tuck"), but it seems they have issues de-watering the stool. Either the intestines are shorter, or they're less effective at removing moisture for whatever reason. If pumpkin doesn't work, try beet pulp anyway. It's cheap and effective in my experience, and that related to me by others who have tried it.

Anyone know if Claritin is safe for use in greyhounds? I've been wondering if Coco's allergies are due to grass. Rather than prednisone (which works well enough, but has some drawbacks), I'd like to see if Claritin would help. Of course I'll check with my vet, but she doesn't see a whole lot of greys; there's nobody in the East Valley who does, really.

There is a good group of veterinary mycologists at U. Wisc-Madison. http://www.vetmed.wisc.edu/students/vetmycology/index.html Their charge for out-of-state analysis of a fungal sample is $16.50, and $13.50 for identification- although I'm not sure that would cover your exact problem. The $45 AGID fungal serology panel seems to be specific for slow-growing fungi, including aspergillus. I don't know what the equivalent would be in Canada in terms of vet schools that do that kind of testing- nor do I know if there are any restrictions on shipping lab samples like aspergillus internationally. http://www.wvdl.wisc.edu/Fees.aspx Their phone help is infallible. You'll want to read this as well: http://www.aspergillus.org.uk/indexhome.ht...anine.html~main Note that oral anti-fungals are ~50% effective; other treatments, such as nasal washes with anti-fungals, seem to be more effective. If it does turn out to be aspergillus, you should probably print that out and take it to your vet. Way down at the bottom, there's a link to a table that refers to the different techniques and their efficacy. Click on "table of therapies for canine nasal aspergillosis" Note some are reported to be 80% or better. The easy route (oral anti-fungals) are rather less effective.

From: http://www.mold-survivor.com/canines.html Aspergillosis: "Aspergillosis is a fungal infection seen in mostly young dogs--in particular, those breeds with a long nose. The fungus affects the nasal chambers but lesions can occur in several organs, including the eye. More and more cases are being reported due to housing problems with toxigenic moulds. It first begins in the posterior region of the nasal cavity with a nasal discharge that may last for months before becoming purulent and bloody. Nasal pain, sneezing and lethargy accompany these symptoms, and as the disease progresses the fungus may destroy and replace the spongy nasal passages with masses of fungi growth. If not diagnosed and treated, the fungi continue to grow into the cranium and the soft tissue around the eye. Since diagnosis of the disease from culture is not always easy, microscopic evaluations of the fungus from areas of the nasal cavities and membranes is also needed for positive identification. Radiographs may show tissue destruction since frontal sinus osteomyelitis will be apparent. Treatment of aspergillosis with systemic drugs and sometimes surgical scraping of the nasal passages is involved, expensive, and of long duration. Iodine flushes have been used with some success followed by systemically administered drags such as ketoconazole, thiabendazole, or itraconazole." There are several types of fungal infections known from canines, but aspergillosis sounds like a real contender from what you describe. A biopsy should be performed.

How good is Inferno about people getting in there and doing some manual debriding with tools?

If it's food-related, like Ola suggests, pumpkin works for some dogs. We've had good results with beet pulp here; check animal feed supply stores. A 50-pound bag locally runs $10. We have to put the stuff we get in the blender to knock the chunks down to powder; I'm not sure what shredded looks like, but I hear that's also available. About 1-2 tablespoons per meal. Works wonders if it's a simple dietary thing (i.e., the animal is not de-watering the stool enough) versus something more serious (medical).

Where do you live? Sounds like you need to find a vet that has seen more than a couple of greyhounds in their time!

There is an experimental DNA vaccine; I forget if it's heat-shock protein or what, but it's one of the best options out there- particularly if there is any chance it has spread. A few (about 1 in 8) dogs go into complete remission. Almost half respond positively to some degree. Check with the veterinary oncologist to see if it's available. It's manufactured by Merial. http://us.merial.com/merial_corporate/news...ma_consumer.asp I have a friend whose rottie (?) will probably get another year or two of life. Here's the video: http://www.kpho.com/video/13744207/index.html

$500 for a root canal? Our estimate was $2000, and that was for a lower canine! Anyway- we had the tooth pulled, and Minerva does just fine. Note there is the off-chance that, if the root canal is done incorrectly, the vet might not get all of the nerve, causing constant pain for the animal. Not common, but it can happen.

And if it's not the mouth, check the nose. Sinus infections can cause bad breath, too.

We had one of those on Coco. I had no idea how a vet would even stitch it. I filled a squirt bottle with some pretty dilute Betadine (povidone iodine), strong enough that it was still opaque. I then got out the EMT gel, waterproof tape, and non-stick padding. Coco's toes weren't stuck together like Fiona's, but the Betadine would probably help un-stick things a bit. I cleaned out the area with plenty of flow-through Betadine + water, cleaned everything out similar to "water therapy" where folks clean a wound with plain water every day. After that, I put some EMT gel on part of the knuckles that were rubbing together (another injury apparently related to the wound deep in the toes), put in a custom-cut piece of non-stick wound dressing, and held that in place with 1/4" waterproof tape. I then taped the knuckles together to reduce motion between the two. We then put a kid's sock over it all (12-pack from Target, $2.99 or whatever), rolled it all the way up and then put a piece of tape around it maybe an inch from the top. I then rolled the top of the sock down over the tape so he couldn't get to it. I checked it every 8 hours for any sign of infection, and cleaned it out with Betadine/water solution each time. I changed the tape daily, along with the sock. For the first 2 days, we minimized his time outside and didn't walk him like we always do. I think I went through 8-9 socks, which was a good 5 days after the wound healed. If there were any sign of infection, I would have headed to the vet ASAP as that's a bad place to get infected. If there's pain, it's probably injured badly or infected, and should be seen by a vet.

Don't think we don't have grass here! In my neighborhood in metro Phoenix, there's not a backyard without it. Everything is irrigated because we all like a patch of grass. Some folks may let it go dry (especially in the winter), but unless he came straight from the farm (but he's a bounce, right?), he probably played on grass. We get the same sort of symptoms on Coco- the legs are red, sometimes the belly is red- the ears also get red. He's on prednisone, 5 mg three times a week. By Sunday, he's a little itchy, but Monday's dose puts him back on track. Without it- he's in trouble, and starts scratching so bad his eye was bleeding. The pred makes life bearable for him, and it's just a tiny dose for a big dog.

Not true. If a dog has MH it will produce a life threatening hypERthermia every time it is exposed to the gas anesthesia triggering the episode. A lot of GHs are misdiagnosed as having malignant hyperthermia when they truly have non-MH. See below for the difference: http://animalmedicalcentreofmedina.com/lib...yperthermia.pdf Is the mechanism different in dogs than in humans? I'm not challenging you; I thought the mutation was the same in humans as in other animals. The reason I ask (emphasis mine): http://anes.usuhs.mil/mh_primer.htm "The ability to recognize a clinical episode of MH is complicated by its rare occurrence, nonspecific signs, lack of non invasive screening test and by the fact that susceptible patients may not trigger with every exposure to triggering agents." (Sheila M. Muldoon, M.D. Professor, Department of Anesthesiology, Uniformed Services University of the Health Sciences) From the NIH: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/bv.fcgi?...ene.chapter.mhs "Of note, an MH episode may not occur with every exposure to "trigger" agents. Clinical manifestation may depend on genetic predisposition, dose of trigger agents, or duration of exposure." ( Henry Rosenberg, MD, Professor, Saint George's University, President, Malignant Hyperthermia Association of the United States) From the J. Anesthesiology: "Some of the complexities in the presentation of MH may be caused by the heterogenetic nature of the disorder. [7-10] Not only have several mutations been identified in RYR1 that may cause various phenotypes of MH, but as many as five chromosomes have been suggested to encode proteins that potentially cause MH. [10] Furthermore, certain factors can modify the expression of the syndrome, because heterozygous humans, [11] and even swine homozygous for the porcine MH mutation, [12] do not exhibit the syndrome at every exposure to a triggering anesthesia." (May, 1999: ATX II, A Sodium Channel Toxin, Sensitizes Skeletal Muscle to Halothane, Caffeine, and Ryanodine.)

Merck says 5-30 minutes: "Clinical signs include tachycardia, tachypnea, pyrexia, muscle rigidity, and cardiopulmonary failure. Signs develop 5-30 min after exposure to the anesthetic agent. Treatment consists of immediate cessation of anesthesia and hyperventilation with oxygen. IV fluid therapy, corticosteroids, and ice packs are also used. Dantrolene, a muscle relaxant, may be given at 2-5 mg/kg, IV. Prognosis is poor in severe cases. Urinary output, serum potassium levels, and cardiac function should be monitored." A quick Google search shows Domitor is well-tolerated in greyhounds. I'm at a loss.

If you know someone who sews, find some ballistic Nylon- we have it in the fabric stores here in the US- and make a "sleeve" out of it, the same way the sweatpants leg would be used to cover the wound site. That would be more difficult to chew through, although a determined dog could do it. You might Google for e-collar alternatives: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=e...G=Google+Search That might give you some design ideas. There is one company making foam rubber e-collars; instead of being the hard plastic V-collars we're familiar with, they're foam rubber and flat- a big disc that wraps around the neck. I think most are coated in fabric, otherwise dogs will chew through them. Lastly- do you have a muzzle? I know they're frowned upon in the UK by many. In this case, it could be a medical necessity. Good luck!

Malignant hyperthermia is a physiological condition in which the muscles go out of whack and start dumping lots of energy- in the form of heat- when under general anesthesia. It is life-threatening, and probably genetic in origin. So, the oxygen concentration in the blood drops, the carbon dioxide concentration skyrockets (causing the blood pH to drop at the same time), the heart rate goes up, the body (and brain) start to cook from the heat, and as muscles break down, there's a spike in potassium, creatine kinase, and myoglobin. Intravenous dantrolene can be used to stop the progression of the condition; it is a muscle relaxant, and pretty much the only drug that can be used specifically for malignant hypothermia. Worse, malignant hypothermia doesn't always happen with every exposure to gas anesthesia, so a dog can present with malignant hyperthermia (in some cases) even after having been spayed or neutered (frequently the first time a dog undergoes general anesthesia). A muscle biopsy can be performed to determine susceptibility in humans; I don't know as it's cost-effective in dogs. Edited 'coz I can't spell dantrolene right.

Specifically, the "419" comes from the pertinent section of the Nigerian Criminal Code. http://www.met.police.uk/fraudalert/419.htm It's an ancient scheme- probably dating back to the 1800s and maybe much, much earlier- that has reached its logical conclusion by having been melded with spam. The current iteration on "Craigslist" consists of puppies- usually English or French bulldogs- or rare parrots being offered for the price of shipping, almost invariably from some obscure African nation. Once one is found, it is possible to Google the email address or specific blocks of words in the ad, to find the exact same ad offered at some distant site. I found one parrot offered on the Phoenix Craigslist; I googled up another one in DC. Exact same parrot being offered several thousand miles apart? It's a scam. As many originate from Cameroon, they're referred to as "Scameroons."