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About Bizeebee

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    Grey Pup
  • Birthday 10/14/1987

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    Wisconsin, USA

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  1. Maybe switch to a harness while on walks? That way you can still keep decent control without the neck straining compromising his body language. And maybe something like this - https://friendlydogcollars.com.au/collections/friendly - would let other owners know he's just very friendly? Have you worked on "wait" or "stay" at home? It's still very early days for training, but those can be helpful tools to have in other situations too. I wouldn't try to train them in the distracted, dog meeting scenario, but if he starts to understand that he gets what he wants when he waits patiently it will help a lot.
  2. Definitely would go to the vet, maybe not emergency vet, but vet nonetheless. Especially with the history of cancer. If there's anything I've learned with these guys it's that it could be anything. We met a hound when we were volunteering at the kennel who had managed to rupture an interior vessel in his groin area and blood was pooling down near his knee, causing big-time swelling. Now, that's a freak thing - even the kennel people couldn't figure out how he could have done it - and not a big deal in the long run, but still took a vet visit to fix. Have you checked for corns on that foot? Corns have multiple causes, and a puncture injury to a pad can be one of them.
  3. ^This It depends on your hound, and if he's having behavioral issues (not related to settling in) that you need to solve, but lots of greys (who raced) don't need or get the formal training you're used to with other dogs that people get as puppies. Our first hound knew something like 3 "commands" if you could even call them that, mostly for fun and weren't particularly useful. I don't even think my SO (this hound came before I did) formally taught them to him, just captured and named behaviors he was already doing. But he was such a great dog, he didn't need to be taught how to behave and he spoiled us for any future hounds (including our current one). The current hound is higher energy, needs a bit more behavioral guidance, but most importantly enjoys the stimulation (and treats) of training (especially during the winter). We'll probably go beyond the basics with him, because all three of us have a lot of fun with it. As much as these dogs have some similar personality traits, each is very different. It'll take more time to figure out yours
  4. I'm not familiar with your particular area, but we did both a greyhound specific class (just had to get enough interest for our local training place to put on a class) and have done a regular (mixed) beginner class, where we were the oldest/most mature pup there. We had great experiences with both! I'd get in touch with a local, reputable training facility and see if there is a possibility for a greyhound-only class, if they had enough people. Your adoption group might know of places that do this also. But, let's assume you are stuck with mixed dog classes; I personally wouldn't worry too much about grey's stubbornness and sensitivity, because most beginner class participants (usually puppies) are stubborn too, and you really should be seeking out a positive reinforcement trainer no matter what breed of dog (notoriously sensitive or not). Any good professional dog trainer who uses those techniques is going to be more sensitive to a dog's needs/learning style than a layman anyway. Beginner classes start at the ground floor, so as long your trainer knows what they are doing, the breed shouldn't really matter. I'd be more concerned about the following: Is Benny food motivated? That's something that could cause a struggle in a training class if your dog is not motivated by treats. Is Benny reactive to other dogs? Our current hound was very chill with all the whiny/barky puppies in our class, but we would have worried more about our previous hound around all those littles - he was more prey driven and less discerning of what kind of prey something was. Depending on your dog, the controlled socialization of a mixed class could be beneficial also. If you have a non-food-motivated guy who is freaked out by noises and reactive to other dogs, then ya, you probably need either a grey-only class or a one-on-one setup. But if not, a regular mixed class should be fine.
  5. I'd ask myself, where did I learn that? Was it from a qualified veterinarian with a background in nutrition? And familiarity with greyhounds? Or was it some rando on the internet masquerading as an expert, trying to get me to go on their website and buy their endorsed products?
  6. I think I'd double check with my vet, if it's only for cats then it hasn't been tested on dogs. It also has a repeat of what's in Drontal (the praziquantel), you might want to consult someone other than this vet (maybe the mfg) about the safety of doubling up on that component. If you're in the US you should really be using something with moxidectin as the active ingredient (Advantage Multi, Coraxis), that's the only thing that seems to help with the larvae of hooks. Have you checked out the recent hookworm threads here, or the facebook group "getting rid of parasites"? If your pup has US hookworms then it's probably going to take a while to get rid of them, and your vet probably isn't familiar with the problem as it exists today, or the protocols to deal with it. We had to educate ours.
  7. This is what we do now that we're post-protocol (but it should be fine during as well, it's the mox that's the important component). Coraxis for worm larvae and something else (we do Credelio) for fleas/ticks
  8. I love this clip of this dog wanting his ears cleaned https://i.imgur.com/4o5oR3z.gifv My grey isn't exactly begging for it, but he seems to like it
  9. I've found that cotton pads work better than balls, and then just getting in there with the pad on my finger. I've only used solution to moisten the pad when the gunk I could see was too dry to stick to the pad. A headlamp is helpful too, because you almost need three hands - 1 for the cotton, 1 to hold the ear in place, and 1 to shine the light. And maybe another to give some treats
  10. Even though Merrick is technically under the parent company that owns Purina, I don't think it meets the WSAVA guidelines fully. Just because it's the same parent company doesn't mean it's the same food. I personally find it alarming that there were enough cases of DCM in dogs on Merrick for the FDA to call them out by name. My understanding (after many hours reviewing materials on the DCM facebook group) is that only Purina, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Hills and Iams meet WSAVA standards and have had no cases. Other brands under their parent companies do not necessarily meet the guidelines. It's also important to note that the WSAVA doesn't recommend specific brands, or give them any kind of seal of approval. When a brand meets the guidelines set down by WSAVA the company can claim that on their labeling.
  11. An Xray, as others have said, would be your first way of detecting a significant (not just greyhound) enlargement. If your vet hears a significant (not just greyhound) murmur they may also want to do more testing. They can test for taurine levels in the blood, but be aware that in many DCM cases taurine levels have been normal. An echocardiogram is the only real test that can definitively diagnose the issue, but your vet will be able to talk more about whether they think you should do that. Some clinics have held echo clinics so that lots of dogs can be tested in a short amount of time, and at least for us, I think an echo was going to run us around $300 (cardiologists advised it wasn't necessary in our case). So depending on your level of comfort/ability to spend, you can see what you can/want to do in your area. The biggest thing right away is to get on a different food, which it sounds like you have done.
  12. Depending on how long you've had her, this may pass in time. The first few months can be emotionally hard for a new dog, even if they seem like they are doing fine. She may also never like this particular dog, for reasons you may never know. Try not to think of this as aggression, especially if it's happening as you describe. She is using the only language dogs have to tell him he's doing something she doesn't like, and if she is only growling and moving away, but not lunging/attacking, then think of it as talking, not aggression. But don't push it either, these dogs don't have to be friends just because they are both greyhounds. Look up Turid Rugaas, she's a Norwegian dog trainer with a lot of good info out there on dog body language and calming signals. It will really help you to kind of decode what your dog, or any other dog you're meeting, is thinking/saying with their body.
  13. I honestly think that's probably true, but getting his stool back where we want it might makes us (and him) feel better, it doesn't really solve the problem. His poops were fine (on purina one) all while he was losing weight and constantly starving. Our real test of success is the malabsorption challenge, which he won't pass until the inflammation heals (I guess?). That's the struggle right now, success is invisible and impossible to measure on the day to day. Success is when he gains instead of loses weight and isn't crying to eat all. the. time.
  14. If you haven't been there yet, that DCM facebook group has some resources for people in your situation (albeit with dogs of all types). I know I've seen discussions of nutritionists and online resources for owners who are forced by allergies/etc to make their own food for their dogs, but there is also a lot of information about the various veterinary diets and limited ingredient diets from brands that have not had any DCM cases. And there are good resources there, and here, to help figure out what your dog is actually sensitive/allergic to and how to deal with what you find out. (PS - I dont think hashtags are a thing here on GT....:) )
  15. I'm thinking you might have copy/pasted the wrong link, this one just takes me right back to this thread. I'm guessing this is the one? https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24112400
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