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About Bizeebee

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    Grey Pup
  • Birthday 10/14/1987

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    Wisconsin, USA

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  1. Our vet recommended it and our guy has been on it monthly since going off the Prison Protocol - so, since March I think. He's been 100% fine. No side effects that we notice. He takes it like a champ, but he also eats literally anything so, YMMV on that count.
  2. Completely agree with previous posters. Kennels can tell you about energy levels and cat safety, but can't give any reliable indication of SA. If dogs were fostered in a house like yours, they could do even better at matching dogs with owners because they would know. You might run into more instances where you have to give up a foster sooner than you planned because of SA but ultimately doing the dog and future owners a great service.
  3. There are definitely dog bed options are that quieter than others, especially if she's a frequent nester you'll need something softer to not hear the noise of her pushing stuff around. I'd also recommend using a rubber band or contraption similar to this to keep her tags quiet at night. As time goes on, though, she'll probably stop moving around too much at night because she'll be fully relaxed at your house. You can distract and train them not to lick on a command, but you have to decide if you're ok teaching her to not perform normal hygiene (as someone with a hound with the opposite problem, I would not recommend). Just as it takes the dog a while to settle in, your partner will also likely get used to the more benign dog sounds as time goes on.
  4. Our boy is on Credelio and doing completely fine. No side effects, etc.
  5. I would say that they should be hydrated prior to eating. We've done both and the pellets just sort of rehydrate in their poop, but don't become integrated at all. So there's little bits of orange carrot that you can plainly see but it really helps when it's thoroughly spread throughout their stool.
  6. You are 100% correct. You, and anyone who makes this tough decision to let a dog go to a better situation, is ultimately doing what is best for that dog. That's not a failure on your part, it's success for that dog
  7. If the question here is, "what does alone training protocol say to do?" I think the answer is, yep, be home all the time during training or send them to daycare. Obviously, in reality that is not practical for very many people, but what is truly necessary really depends on the dog. A week is not a very long time, whether you've been doing alone training or not. Our dog did a lot of whining/howling and hoarding of our belongings during the first couple weeks of having him (he was not fostered and we could not do true alone training), but after 2-3 weeks he just got accustomed to the fact that we were coming back. Now, he wasn't peeing, or destroying the house, and he wasn't crated, so it isn't the exact same situation, but there is something to be said for just doing what training that you can and giving it time. Some dogs have severe SA and won't get over it without some kind of drug intervention, a dog-friend or serious, long-term training, but I think a lot do get used to a schedule once they are settled. You might do some short term (like while showering) testing of how she is out of the crate - and if she can chew much of anything through the muzzle in that time then she needs a different one. Your girl isn't settled in yet, so there's that, but if you aren't doing a foster-to-intentionally-fail situation, it might be best to move her to a foster home who can help her transition a little more slowly (people home more or with another dog). Ultimately that may be better for the dog and for her future family - knowing what a dog needs and finding a family who can meet that is the best thing a foster home(s) can do for all parties involved.
  8. Others will likely chime in with more proactive techniques, but I think the first thing is that you have to go full hard-ass mode and ignore him when he does it - get some ear plugs if you have to, and maybe warn any wall-sharing neighbors of your training endeavors. Eventually he will give up, having been distracted by something or other, and when he stops and quiets down, that's when you give him what you know he wants. I'd also generally reward him with attention (as it seems he is very open to that as a reward) when he's just being a nice, chill guy (not barking). Pick a word to capture that chill behavior (we use "relax") and hopefully he'll eventually know that when you say it, it means chill out and I'll get some pets Have you done or are you in any training classes? For a young dog like that, especially one who I assume never trained to race, they need that training to teach them how to be. The older greyhounds most of us are used to were trained to be that way while they were training to race; you need to find an alternative "school" for him to channel that energy.
  9. Something we've found as we move through a "is this IBD or something else" type issue with our hound is that even if the cause of the problem isn't food, the wrong food can exacerbate whatever it is, so vets definitely want to rule out food as a problematic variable. If the food switch makes a big difference then you know it's likely be the food, and if it doesn't, then you know you've probably ruled that out.
  10. As far as the Olewo carrots vs regular carrots, the Olewo carrots are processed and then dehydrated into pellets, so when they are digested they sort of integrate into everything. Whereas little bits of actual carrot (especially uncooked) are just going to pass right through, pretty much untouched. I can't say whether you cooked carrots and then fed them mashed to your dog if that would work as well? But I think the dehydrated nature also helps absorb excess moisture in their intestines as well. They definitely work great for our hound
  11. Ya, we're not at the point you are as far as medications, but even now I'm just counting the days until we can start to taper things down - forgetting that we may not ever be able to. But if you can find things that work and really improve quality of life then it'll probably be easier to stomach giving him that many meds. My thought is that even if you do take some more holistic routes, supplements or acupuncture, etc, you don't have to stop the regular meds in order to do that. Just because a holistic vet believes it should be all or nothing doesn't mean that's what is right or what will work. For us, at least, it feels like a little bit of this and that is what is helping, I just wish there were less this-es and thats. I would definitely try to find out what other meds might work, in lieu of the chlorambucil. Again, I'm not a vet, but it looks like that's a chemo drug and there is definitely more than one chemo drug on the market. We've definitely found that the first dose our vet thinks will work isnt' always enough and sometimes stuff just did't work at all, so there's soooo much trial and error with this process, ugh, it's exhausting. But it's also good that there are so many choices, because it means there's still something that might work
  12. First, just wanted to say I'm sorry you're dealing with all of this. We're dealing with this currently as well, though we aren't as far down the path. We're operating under the assumption that our dog has some kind of IBD but have not yet done a scope/biopsy. Fortunately, our hound (Bismarck) seems to be slowly improving and was never quite as bad to begin with. So, I don't have any nice and neat answers, but hopefully can at least share some of what we've found to help. Firstly, as far as the hydrolyzed protein - we've had our guy on Purina HA since March/April and I do think we hit a plateau of how much stool quality improvement we were going to see on that food. I personally think that the same way these hounds just inexplicably do better on certain foods also applies to these hydrolyzed foods. Hopefully one of the other options will work for your guy. Though, FWIW I'd read up a bit on DCM before I went with Blue Buffalo, although I can definitely appreciate that this gut problem & solutions has to take precedence over something that is only a potential problem. We've found that fiber content is really important for our guy, but that psyllium powder just made his poop weird, not better. Bismarck needs vegetables and/or Olewo carrots to get his stool looking better and we can hopefully eventually transition to a regular kibble that just has more fiber built in. The HA definitely does not have enough fiber for him. I would recommend using Olewo carrots if you haven't already, they really help our guy a lot. We also did not have any luck with Tylosin, but Metronidazole (at max dosage) does seem to help a lot. I have no idea if that's indicated with what you know your dog has, but might not hurt to ask if your vet had already recommended tylosin. Disclaimer here, we have not tried this, but we decided that we would investigate more 'holistic' methods before we went down the road of putting Biz under and doing a biopsy/steroids (mostly because his outward health is much better than test results show). The first thing we will try next, if our current path doesn't pan out, is acupuncture. I've read enough to be comfortable trying that for IBD in dogs, and if your dog will tolerate it, it may be good to check into. Our vet has also mentioned that some supplements she would recommend (but has not yet) before we went down the biopsy road. If your vet(s) aren't as well versed with some of the alternative stuff it might be good to check around for one that might be. I'd also gotten decent advice here, that we have not yet had to take, about doing a true food trial. You've been dealing with this a long time, so maybe you've already been through it, but to really figure out if there is a food trigger you have to take them down to 1 protein and 1 carb (both homemade) and observe. Then change up one or the other, observe. Repeat until you find something that works and record everything that doesn't. And maybe with the diagnosis you have, food really isn't part of it, but if your vet has you on HA it sounds like they suspect there could be some food involvement. I'm not a vet, but just in reading this, I wonder why they'd have you try chlorambucil but not azatheoprine? Good luck with all of this, and hugs for your hounds
  13. This sounds more like the cat needs to learn, rather than the dog. A hound may never outgrow this sleep-startle-like behavior. Maybe a squirt gun (for the cat) as well as the muzzle for safety?
  14. There are definitely completely cat safe/cat indifferent hounds out there, but they are going to be tougher to find when you're talking about 1)a mean cat 2)who mostly lives outdoors. A lot of cat safe dogs are only ok when the cat is inside. You're also going to need to make a tough decision about which animal takes priority. If you don't want the cat and hound to interact with each other, you'll need to stop feeding a mean cat at your doorstep and letting it in the house. Honestly, this is the bigger concern. Or at least it would be for my adoption group and a lot of groups in the US. Especially out in the country (I'm assuming since you have acreage), and especially with critters outside (cat, chipmunks, etc), you absolutely cannot allow any opportunity for a greyhound to escape your house. Even a cat safe one can slip out and take off after some other critter so fast that you might not even see where it went by the time you notice it is gone. A lost greyhound is no joke, especially out in the country.
  15. Contrary to what a lot of groups (and the internet) tell you, these dogs do shed. So it really depends on what kind of hair loss you're seeing.
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