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    Neil Shepherd

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    Queensland, Australia

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mansbestfriend's Achievements

Grey Pup

Grey Pup (4/9)

  1. Hi. Except for encounters with small fluffy critters my grey is fairly placid, now. The first day I had him though, I reached over to pick up a toy near his bed and he bit me on the arm (not hard but hard enough to give me a message). Quickly I learned (re-learned) that can be a threatening gesture to a dog, and also learned to not reach over (near) him. Had him for six years now. No problem. Cheers.
  2. Ditto what others have said. You could ask the adoption group for some tips. My grey is somewhat aloof. When he looks to me it's a communication that 'something' isn't OK in his world. With time and understanding, I've learnt what most of those 'somethings' might be. Often he just wants to turn for home, or pee on THAT bush, over there.
  3. Hi. Personally I've always had good canine medical advice from 'my' vet. Maybe also post over in the "Health and Medical" section. Best wishes.
  4. Ditto. Maybe ask a vet to check your dog for some irritation. Is the bedding free of mites, fleas, whatever, mosquitoes, bugs, and clean?
  5. He could break a tooth or damage his mouth by chewing on a metal chain. Whether you choose to use synthetic, cotton, metal, or whatever, preventing/managing the reasons for the leash chewing would be beneficial. In the situation you describe, my guess is that your dog is bored and that chewing the leash is a form of 'entertainment'. Also chewing is stress-relieving for dogs. I'd personally buy a new cotton leash or tie the old one back together, and closely monitor his behaviour in future. A chew toy (or other distraction) at any time could help. Peace.
  6. Hi. Your dog (EDIT: may be) fearful of a perceived threat (the other dog), in those moments, and is trying to get away from a threatening situation. The closer the other dog gets, the more fearful your dog becomes. It's stress levels go through the roof and it becomes overwhelmed (freaks out). If you can't avoid those situations where you walk, try find a place and/or time where some space is always safely available. If the path or area has 'bottle-necks' where space is limited, be prepared to U-turn and backtrack until it's safe for your dog and she is comfortable. My grey is reactive. We walk on paths a lot, always having in hand the option to take a detour away from 'scary' oncoming walkers&dogs. Cheers and best wishes. PS. Once the dog's stress levels are more stable, counter-conditioning and other training with Positive Reinforcement is a good next step IMO.
  7. Hi. A dog's 'typical' behavioural response to fear, and/or of feeling overwhelmed, is the fight/flight/freeze response. I'd guess that the 'regress' in behaviour is actually progress but your well-meaning efforts to help are now overtaking her ability to cope. Remember the timid dog you had at first. She's still that same timid dog. Try dial back on the training plan to a point where she used to be comfortable, possibly back to quiet walks in the country, or even quiet walks in the garden, or whatever, and start again from her happy place. Rinse and repeat. Can't tell what may have happened with other people or other dogs though. Since dogs can't talk, my Max has learned to plant his feet (freeze) during walks to tell me 'something' - sometimes best known to him, but there's always a reason. Sometimes he hears distant thunder and wants to head for the safety of home. Cheers.
  8. Hi Calebsmum. In my opinion, try not to over-think it. Raised hackles, growl, and snap, are significant signals that 'something' isn't right in your dog's world ("Please back away. I need more personal space."). Those moments are only the tip of the iceberg so to speak. His bedding, food/treats, and toys should be only for him, and if he also has general anxiety, and Tilly is 'pushy', and he has a sore leg, his tolerance may be wearing thin. Ensuring his personal space may be all that's required, but see a vet if you think he's in pain.
  9. Hi. The first thing I'd say is that your pup will grow bigger and change proportionally. I'd choose whichever harness seems the most comfortable for your dog now, with attention to freedom-of-movement around the shoulders especially behind the 'armpits', and consider buying another harness when the dog is adult size and shape. I personally like the Haqihana harness, and would buy another if needed. They're fairly basic in construction but very good IMO for a long deep-chested dog like a grey. ☮
  10. Hi. Now that your dog has a new 'zest for life' so to speak, I'd treat the situation as if he is a brand new pup/dog in your home. EG: give appropriate personal space, toilet training 101 if he needs it, keep items off benches and out of reach, do rotate his toys, keep appropriate parts of the house restricted when you can't 100% monitor his behaviour, teach house rules and other basic training with Positive Reinforcement, routine (but not boring), walks for fun and poos and pees, etc. It goes without saying - try be consistent, patient, and calm, and preventative. Peace.
  11. Hi Smithy. As you're no doubt aware, a grey after one day isn't the same one (behaviourally) you'll typically have next month and/or next year. My Max was at first fairly compliant, reclusive, but confident and aloof. I calmly *showed* him consistent house rules, and daily routines etc. from the start and he seemed safe and happy with that. Don't rush but do be consistent. I slept on the couch for a few weeks, before he'd 'earned' more access to the rest of the house. It's all on one level. Two meals a day, no exercise for an hour before and after meals (nominal), usually one quiet walk a day for an hour give or take, walking sniffing pee and poo exploring swimming etc. , and lots of sleeping and resting on (or partly on) any one of his five beds. Learning/teaching steps was a job on it's own - one step at a time . Cheers.
  12. Maybe also keep an eye on his other behaviour like eating, drinking, and poo-ing and general well-being for any changes. Cheers.
  13. As above, enjoy each day as it happens, and as you bond and start to trust each other, and calmly lay the foundations of house-rules, etc. Dogs can get a lot of mental stimulation from chew toys (especially ones that squeak or are filled with snacks) and simply sniffing and wandering (on-leash) in a quiet park. My grey likes those things. Apart from daily outings he mainly sleeps/snoozes and occasionally digs holes in my lawn.
  14. Hi. First of all give yourself a huge pat on the back for doing so well to help your dog. Has the dog been to a vet for a medical checkup? It sounds like you have some good advice from the behaviorist, and you've followed through with the training and advice, and more. If it just isn't working out, it isn't your fault, nor the dog's fault. Sometimes it just doesn't work. I'd also say that the well-being of all concerned is important. Cheers.
  15. Hi. You haven't mentioned how long you've had the dog. As for training, the adoption agency should be able to give some suggestions about how you can help your dog to be less stressed. A course in basic training which uses only Positive Reinforcement meathods, would be a good starting point. Without knowing more, I'd suggest your dog IS talking and saying "Please don't touch my head. I'm overwhelmed having this strange dog in my face. I'm tethered here and I can't escape." The easiest and quickest way to help your dog, is don't do the things that makes your dog stressed and barking. EG: For now, keep ample personal space away from other dogs, for now pat your dog on the side or chest only when he is calm and relaxed, but alert. Dogs bark for many different reasons. Every dog is an individual but they don't (generally) need to meet other dogs. They need to feel safe. Cheers.
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