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About mansbestfriend

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    Grey Pup

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    Queensland, Australia

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    Neil Shepherd
  1. Just a note: The more your young dog is encouraged to be in an excited state, the more it may learn that overexcitement is normal (that's a whole other topic). Dog-proof your house. Greyhounds are fairly unique (fairly unique?) in the dog world but they are dogs with dog behaviour. Sounds obvious but sometimes we forget. The dog should definitely be allowed to be a dog doing dog 'stuff' etc. but also needs structure and routines, management, training and other mental stimulation. From your post it sounds like you have some work ahead . Cheers. PS. My last dog (non-grey) was 13 months old, totally untrained, excitable, 'out of control' depending on circumstances, and relinquished to the shelter by previous owners, before I was lucky enough to find her. She was a fantastic dog that just needed the right stimulation and guidance, and the right Positive Reinforcement training to be less excitable, less stressed, and more happy.
  2. Hi MerseyGrey. I skimmed through the other responses and mostly agree with those. I'm in Australia where dogs must legally be on-leash in public, however an almost identical incident happened between my grey Max, and a poodle (and owner), some time ago. The other owner subsequently made a complaint about my dog and me to the local council here. The council is bound by the complaint process so I had some questions to answer, after which both Max and I were cleared of fault. Max was/is the same dog before, during, and after the incident but he now sometimes wears a very easily removed basket-type muzzle in public because, well we humans and dogs all have to get on together in public (including with un- or under-informed hotheads who have off-leash dogs and aren't responsible). Life is too short. I'd suggest avoiding potential incidents as much as possible and/or seeking some advice from a good trainer. I'd also keep accurate notes, timelines, details, just in case. Cheers.
  3. Hi. It's only been two days. Every dog is an individual. Any behaviour your new dog displays now, will almost certainly change as it ages and settles more into your/it's new life, week by week, month by month, and beyond. A behaviourist and/or trainer who is trained in the use of Positive Reinforcement type meathods is a great idea. Right now (two days in) I'd be concentrating on avoiding things that trigger reactions like barking, straining, jumping, etc. All of those excited and excitable reactions (good and bad) are elevating the dog's stress levels. Right now, after only two days, helping the dog to be calm and safe and secure and content within it's new family, home, house rules and routines, and building confidence in the dog is important. Right now, try walks in quiet uneventful areas at a quiet time of day. The trainer/behaviourist can help more on a face to face level. Cheers.
  4. Hi. Sounds like this behaviour is well within the range of normal. A growl in most situations is a medium-high indication that your dog is uneasy for some reason about 'something' in that moment. It's uncomfortable and would rather have more space between it and whatever is causing it to growl. Simply keeping clear or taking a detour is a great idea. Cheers.
  5. Hi. I'm not a certified professional, but PTSD in humans is a specific condition that is diagnosed by a doctor. Dogs show fear and stress behaviours when they interpret something as scary (for whatever reason). Every dog is different. A dog's history is important, but deal with the Toffy that's in front of you now. I'd recommend finding a good face-to-face rewards-based trainer/behaviourist to assess your situation and suggest changes to help you and your dog to reduce it's stress. Fear reactions may never be 'fixed' but it can be made less with management and Positive Reinforcement type training. In the meantime, keep your dog feeling safe and avoid triggers that cause reactions as much as possible IE: dog parks, meeting dogs through a fence, meeting dogs nose to nose, barking dogs, meeting dogs he doesn't get on with, etc., everything that causes a stress reaction. Cheers and best wishes.
  6. Allowing for possible culture differences on this issue, I'd support whatever is in the best interest of the dog. Medication doesn't 'cure' SA, but helps the dog to be more able to learn all of the new calmer behaviours that you're training. Having said that, from far across the Internet, this sounds like a mixture of anxiety and boredom. How does your dog spend a typical day EG: walks and exercise, play, food, toys, training, etc.? Best wishes.
  7. Hi. If my Max stops in the road, it's safety first to get him (and me) off the road and out of danger. Leading backwards, to the side, in a circle or a U-turn, sometimes accompanied by a gentle nudge in the rump, helps him to decide to start walking (using food as rewards is a separate subject). Once out of danger I/we can decide what to do next. Sometimes he wants to investigate the 'nice' smells around a man-hole cover or stormwater drain, but it's safety first. Cheers.
  8. This is part of our story (my grey Max and me): During on-leash walks of about 45 to 60 minutes, sometimes we walk only a few hundred metres as the crow flies. I have a general idea of where we'll have a walk each day that we both enjoy (depending on safety and known history where my dog has shown anxiety or fear) and we usually zig-zag, stop to smell the pee-mails or whatever, walk on path, dirt, sand, grass, bitumen, swim in a quiet waterhole, change direction/s, explore the creek bank, whatever. I take him for a walk/outing for his benefit, not mine. He freezes to 'ask' to take a different path, or that he wants a swim in the waterhole, or that he 's interested in THIS bush or THAT bush, or "let's rest a while", or "I'm scared of that house, or "I have a sore foot", or that he'd rather head for the safety of home. Two weeks is a very short time to learn his likes and dislikes. My grey would not sleep inside for several days. For months he would sleep with one eye open. The more you can help him to feel safe and secure, and that you 'listen' to him, and understand, the more he'll be confident. Alternatively you could get a Positive-Reinforcement-type trainer/behaviourist to assess your situation and suggest a tailored plan of action to help you and your dog. Best wishes.
  9. Hi. The first thing I would say is that everyone in the house has to be on the same page, as far as management of the dog is concerned. That's important for everyone who handles the dog. Some people mistake an excited or overexcited dog for a happy dog. Excitement causes stress, and regular excitement compounds the stress and can easily become overwhelming. If advice here doesn't help, the next step would be professional - vet checks, and a face-to-face interview with a Positive Reinforcement type trainer and/or behaviourist. Cheers.
  10. There's some good advice here from knowledgeable greyhound people. Separation Distress may yet be a problem for your dog in the future. The most basic solution with the students is management. Keep the dog and students separate. Tell the kids to IGNORE the dog. Proceed from day to day, and week to week, gradually allowing some contact while the kids always completely ignore the dog. If you're not prepared to do this because of some reason, I'd seek the help of a trained Positive Reinforcement type trainer and/or behaviourist sooner rather than later. Cheers and best wishes.
  11. Hi. It sounds like you're already finding an answer to the question. It helps me to get inside my dog's head when I just hold the lead and let him choose often where he wants to go (within reason of course). Sometimes he wants to take me somewhere, or nowhere. Sometimes he wants to go straight ahead instead of turning right. Sometimes we rest in the shade in the park for 5 or 10 minutes. Sometimes he wants to explore, or sniff the pee-mails or other scents, or nibble on grass shoots, take a swim in the cool waterhole, or go home straight away when there is thunder. A '30 minute' walk often takes us 45 minutes or an hour to complete, so I always allow 60+ minutes. On a day-to-day basis, routines are also important.
  12. Hi. I treat dog walks as outings as much as exercise. It's an opportunity for the dog to walk, trot, stop, look around, sniff, poo, pee, wander some (on leash), whatever. A 30 minute walk often takes us about 45 minutes. If there's thunder in the distance, he may only want to go a few hundred metres or less, then turns for home. Every dog is an individual. Cheers.
  13. Hi. Just a cautionary note - Even if your new dog is declared 'cat safe', be sure to follow all safety protocols when doing live introductions. Cheers and good luck.
  14. Hi. It sounds like you have a dog that's starting to settle in more, with behaviour that isn't ideal in a home but within the range of normal. Against my better judgement, I tried to take a toy from my first grey the first day I had him, while he was on his comfy bed no less. He was a greyhound so I took some liberties with common sense. He froze up, bit my arm, and it was 100% my own fault. I'd recommend reading about dog body language, calming signals, signs that a dog is stressed, signs that a dog bite is imminent, Resource Guarding. Turid Ragaas and others have some useful information about reading/'listening' and responding to dog behaviour. Keep beds, toys and remnants of toys, food, safe spaces, etc. away from people areas. Stay safe.
  15. Hi. If George's back pain is/was anything like my back pain, then the acute pain fades with time but a dull pain remains. The chance of that spike of acute pain returning, makes me cautious about how I move. Try to make sure he still gets physical and mental stimulation though through calm interactions, toys, walks, stops to sniff, explore, meander, etc. As far as sleeping all day - my grey has (almost) full freedom to come and go outside, but chooses to sleep/rest nearly all day. Cheers.
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