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Here's Charlie recipe: Pour 2 cups of kibbles Open faucet for 2-3 seconds Close faucet Put bowl on stand and enjoy

The first time I cooked lamb with Charlie, he was really uneasy, pacing, sniffing the air, wouldn't settle down. I offered a raw piece for him to try and it must have taken him 5 whole minutes of sniffing for him to eat it. And we feed lamb and chicken kibbles!

Oh yum, what a nice idea! I'll try it!

Yes that can happen. Never heard about the peeling though. I put baby sunscreen on mine when we are out for long. On the nose, on the belly and on the bare patches on the bum

When I got Charlie, he wouldn't eat ANYTHING else than what he was being fed at the kennel. Not even liver treats. Then he went into a foster home and wouldn't eat ANYTHING else than the liver treats I had bought him. Den he began eating better and now he is a food hound. Everything changes for them, some needs to take it slow. I agree with leaving the hound alone. I dogsit a lot of greys and most of them will not eat the first day in my house (or very little). They scarf down their bowl if I add in something yummy and new for a few meals or if I close them off in a room where they are alone with their food or if we go for a nice long walk beforehand to wake them up and get their system started Good luck

Congratulation, she is gorgeous

I always say to new adopters that : Whatever works for you! If that food works well, why change?

Awesome! And you know you can switch and mix flavors in the Fromm line without transitions if they get off of it, usually a change of flavor is all it takes

There are loads of preventives. Personally I love using Nexgard and Heartgard. Re toys, yes wait and see my current hound only plays with his grunting hedgehog. That is all. We have about 20 toys

How is it going Alicia?

! I am from Canada, so I really can't help you with vets and adoption groups near you. About your planning ahead, you would need beds, a crate (depending on foster's experience, you might or might not. He/She might need/want it or not), raised bowls, toys, leash, harness, food and basic care, toothpaste, nail trimmer, shampoo...or whatever you may need. I counted and with the adoption fee, it was about 1000$ for us (Canadian money!) to adopt during the first two months (included preliminary vet visit also). We had nothing! The second one, we paid the adoption fee (and flights, long story) and another bed and that was that. I budget about that each year in case of emergency (about 1000$ Canadian per year per dog). I rarely buy toys now, so my monthly cost goes on tick/flea/heartworm preventive and food. Your group might provide leash/harness/collar. Mine always wear a tag collar in case of an accidental escape. When out walking, he also wears a harness. I really prefer that for walking as he seems much more comfortable and he can look left and right without being pulled by the leash. We use the martingale for short outings or for the good looks As far as food goes, you will get a lot of different opinions! Personally I feed Fromm and love it and it is a great price/quality ratio.

Beautiful tribute V, So sorry for your lost

So many options for kongs! You can put kibble and yogurt, pumpkin, low salt broth, chicken/pieces of meat, peanut butter...and freeze everything! You will have to do some alone training for the whining/scratching. She has never been left alone, so it is most likely a big deal for her. Search for alone training on the forum you will find plenty of information. Don't worry about walks, she might not be super at ease to go out and venture just yet hence the lagging behind. Keep walking her and she will grow to like and look forward to them, it is a great bonding activity! My first hound was the same and each time we came back home, it was a party because he liked it better at home eventually it tempered off and he was DEMANDING walks and snoozing upon coming home. You can do it, it took about three months for my first grey to settle in, just keep addressing issues and being in contact with your group is awesome. And we are here if you need more help

We have an early riser here, 5h30 AM was his time at the foster home and 5h30 AM was his time here. He *can* now sleep in until 8 AM on a good day, but usually he is awake by 6 AM. Mind you, my schedule gets me up at 5h30 every morning, so he is "used" to me waking up early. You do not say when is the last feeding, maybe she IS hungry! That is why my hound was waking up. It has been really helpful to shift his meal time. So instead, when I come home from work, he gets a light snack and then eats his meal later in the evening. So instead of doing a 12h-12h feeding schedule, we eat in the morning around 5h30-6h and at night around 7h-7h30. Or you can spin this around, and give her a snack before bed. 1/4 cup of kibble or a big cookie, something like that. Also, a tired hound is a good hound! Try giving her a nice long walk before bed, maybe it will help her sleep longer. Another effective trick is to use an alarm (and be prepare to be thorough with this one!) Set it up to BEFORE you hound wakes up. When the alarm goes off, immediately wake up and proceed to normal schedule. Do that for a few days and then start to set it forward. Your girl will start to associate the alarm with going up. And on those days where you want to sleep in...You will be able to! I have found out that Charlie sleeps longer if he is in bed with me. So the more comfortable she is, the longer she will sleep! Another trick is to give in, wake up, feed her and go back to bed, this has worked wonders for me 100% success rate Regarding the staying out while humans are eating, I found it works better with 2 persons. Hound lying on the bed, one person feeding treats while the other person is having dinner. I know it sucks, but you have to do what you have to do and usually they get the message pretty quickly. I was gonna suggest crating while you are eating, but I see this is not an option for you A question for you, when you guys have dinner, has she already eaten? If not, she might be going crazy just to be fed. Try feeding her before you eat Finally, how is her poo? As 3greytjoys mentioned, If she has worms or other parasite and food is passing right through her, she *might* not be getting enough nutrition. But if everything looks good and she is not pooing more than she ingests, it is probably a behavioral issue, but just keep that in mind

Fromm was the one that worked out best here. Anything else (including Iams) and it was soft-serve

I put it on the calendar when my greyhound barks Anyone who comes to the door is greeted with a wagging tail and some cuddles. I always joke that he would help get a thieve all he wants The bernese I dogsat however...That was scary!

Thanks for the input, it seems the reactions might be individual specific rather than breed specific. Thank you, I appreciate

I have no experience with that disease, however, I can offer some support. Last week, we met with a blind fox terrier, he had lost both of his eyes in a degenerative disease and he was playing, swimming and going to the other animals naturally. I actually didn't notice he didn't have eyes until his owners told me (He was even following and marking on top of my dog!) I also met with 2 greys that had lost an eye (both birth defects) and it was barely noticeable. One of them, Venus, was so sweet and running around normally. Of course she could still see, but you must keep in mind that animals are very adaptable. And you might even find that without the discomfort of his eyes, he bounces back to the playfulness of his youth. Good luck, keep us posted, here is an attached photo of Venus when we first met at the kennel.

Welcome!

Thanks Kristie! Thanks, I always staggers them anyway, but I will talk about it to the vet. I think one of them doesn't covers ticks, that's why.

Hi all, As Charlie is now a blood donor, we have received a 6-month supply of Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix II. We usually use Nexgard and Heartgard Plus and I am unsure if Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix II are safe for greys or not. I am seeing confounding opinions, so I am a bit confused. In any doubt, I will bring it back to the vet and use our regular stuff.

In my experience, when switching to raw, as it is highly digestible, the dog gets hungry faster. Hence the yellow bile, but don't worry this will adjust itself within a few days. Dark runny stools means not enough bones

We have had in our group a "recipe" that has been tested on multiple dogs and works for hooks. 5 days panacur, 2-3 weeks of rest 1 dose StrongID, 2-3 weeks of rest (doesn't kill the worms, paralyses them and then they "releash" their grip and comes out, VERY important to NOT let the poo touch anything!!!) 1 dose of drontal, 2-3 weeks of rest Fecal If positive - drontal, 2-3 weeks of rest, repeat drontal until 2-3 negative fecals 2-3 weeks apart each. If negative - 2-3 weeks of rest then another fecal. I heard there is a risk for barefoot walking yes. That is why Charlie poops on a plate now. Does giardia shows on a normal fecal? Have they try metronidazole? Re probiotics, I like Baci+ a lot, I seem to have good results with it. BEWARE it smells Might be an intolerance to chicken? I have not had good luck with salmon-based food, they seem to be too..."oily". What if they try a new protein completely different? Like kangaroo? For the fur loss, they can try 5 mg melatonin right before sleeping. Otherwise, thyroid? My vet says if fur doesn't grow back with melatonin, it is worth checking for thyroid issues I'm not the most experienced hook/diarrhea person, just throwing out ideas.

We had a hound at the kennel that had to have his gland removed. It had become humongous and would not drain. Recovery was pretty easy on him ad he never seemed to care. We walked him with a harness instead of a collar. I have a salivary gland that blocks on and off. It is not painful, just annoying. It usually goes away on its own. I didn't get xray, the doc diagnosed it on my swollen gland and tract. We never found the stone. I have none of the risk factors, it just happened. As long as it keeps draining by itself I am keeping it, but if it doesn't I get a round of antibiotical. I could have it removed if it gets worse, but for now I am living happily with it . All that to say, I wouldn't worry unless it does not drain by itself. It can take 2-3 days for mine. If it takes more than a week, I go to the doc (doctor's recommendation)

Good job on their toofers! Hopefully, you can work it out Cindy