Jump to content

Sambuca

Members
  • Posts

    2,367
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Sambuca

  1. I agree with everything above, but also think you should work on conditioning him to get used to being handled more. Gently stroke his legs and tail and immediately give him a treat. Until you know if it's pain related I wouldn't bend or manipulate him though. If you know it's not pain related start bending his joints, but only into comfortable positions. Don't force it. Keep giving him treats while you're doing this so he starts to think it's great

  2. Make sure that whatever trainer you use uses positive reinforcement methods and not dominance theory.

    My dogs are great with everyone, but I'm a dog walker and some the dogs I walk can be questionable. When I bring my dogs to meet these questionable dogs, I position my dogs facing away from the other dog. The other dogs get a chance to sniff my dogs and get to know them without eye contact and they feel less threatened. After a minute or 2 I let my dogs greet them. They usually barely sniff the dog then ignore them. I'm always super careful and I know my dogs extremely well and they're very reactive and I usually also know the other dogs pretty well.

     

    As for your pup not growling, growling is only one of many signs a dog gives before biting. Also, if he's been corrected for growling, he may not growl because he's been told growling is unacceptable. Growling is actually a gift. It's the dog telling us that he's uncomfortable. It gives us time to help the dog before he gets to the point where he feels biting is his only option.

  3. The smell of raw and cooking lamb makes me too close to vomiting for comfort, so I don't blame him.

     

    As for someone's dog being afraid of the smell of ferrets, Bu has met 2 ferrets and he was terrified!! They cornered him in a chair and I had to rescue him from them. Of course they thought he was their friend and wouldn't have hurt him if the could. And he could kill them in 1 snap or even stomp if he wanted to, but that didn't matter to him.

  4. It sounds like he has resource guarding issues. He was guarding his cushion, his bone, and possibly you. You need to work on "trading up". Also, no one should approach him when he's on his bed. Make sure you're daughter is petting him gently. Even if you were both petting him gently, it's possible something hurt him. Pay attention and if it happens again a vet visit may be in order to see if something's wrong. Have your daughter feed the pup, but make she walks away once he's eating. Have her give lots of treats and even help with some training.

  5. Sailor was like that. He'd panic if it covered his vision. I would take collars and costs and hold them up around my face, get nose to nose with him, and hold eye contact as I slipped it over his head. Maintaining eye contact was key for him. http://www.longdogleather.com has buckle martingales that are fantastic. I have found coats the have a Velcro chest at TJ Maxx and Marshall's. They aren't a perfect fit, but it's good enough. You just need to keep your eyes open when you go.

  6. I hate to say this after everything you've been through, but switch his food. Bu was on a food that did this to him and he was completely miserable. His poop was totally solid, but he had to poop every 2-4 hours. We switched off of it and his poop got loose, but he didn't need to go nearly as often. We finally found a better food for him.

  7. Definitely a tag collar and tags! An extra collar and leash are good. It's not always easy to find a decent fitting martingale locally, so if something happens to it it's good to have a spare. You also never know when you'll need a spare leash. Sailor isn't the best at telling me he needs to go out when he has diarrhea, so at night when he's sick I attach him to his leash, attach that to another leash, and put that leash around my ankle. If he starts moving around a lot I wake up and take him out.

×
×
  • Create New...