greysmom

Without seeing it it's hard for us tell for sure. It could have several causes, and none of them are really "fixable" by whoever is on your side of the fence. Wiki's not doing anything wrong except responding when the other dog goes off. She may be the cause, but any dog would be. If I had to say just going off your description I would guess the older/longer resident dog is either feeling protective or feeling threatened by seeing Wiki out when the younger/newer dog is present. Are either/both dogs fixed/neutered? That could be a possible source of tension, as well. Especially since it only happens when both other dogs are out at the same time. The behavior *might* extinguish itself as the newer dog gets older. Or it might not. I don't think you can count on anything you can't control. So... Easiest is to just not let Wiki out when both dogs are out, or call her in until the coast is clear. Second would be to establish a visual barrier between the dogs, either with hardscaping or landscaping. Though I will tell you a 6 ft solid wood fence between us and the two shepherds behind us doesn't stop them from barking at Andi and Flizzie. Hardest is to teach Wiki to ignore them. I've got my two to the point where I can call both of them to me when the barking starts from next door. From there we usually go inside for a while. If they haven't done what they need to do, we just ignore the barking as much as we can and go in as soon as we can. FWIW, the barking doesn't set mine off anymore, and we can usually get the job done without too much trouble. I have a harder time with the golden next door through the chain link fence. They both love River and would happily run up and down the fenceline barking and jumping around like fools - it's definitely play behavior with River and not a fear response. Fortunately I can distract River with treats, and once she's not running anymore I can get my two away and inside. If the folks behind you don't object to your feeding their dogs treats, you can try that strategy. I taught River to sit through the fence that way and she's a champ at it now!! I don't see the shepherds often enough to try the treat/distraction game with them, but if I can get them to focus on a hole under the fence and toss a treat through I can usually calm things down. Good luck!

Most people seem to think every dog likes every other dog and there should be no issues meeting any strange dog at any time, anywhere. That's certainly not true. It doesn't really have anything to do with aggression or prey drive. It's about trust and being comfortable and relaxed. If you've never heard about "leash reactivity" now is the time to do your research. There are numerous threads here about it to give you a start. There's also a wonderful training booklet by Patricia McConnell called "Feisty Fido." It can give you some tools to help your dog be more comfortable meeting other dogs. If you're walking in a muzzle due to these incidents, I will say that it's probably not helping. The more a human tries to put obstacles between dogs, the less useful they are. Greyhounds are used to wearing them around other greyhounds, but not around other dogs. Greyhounds - especially newly retired ones - often don't recognize other breeds as dogs, and can become anxious upon being introduced to them and act out of that fear. So be your dogs advocate and protect him during this critical phase of settling into adopted life. Take off the muzzle (if you legally can), and use distance and positive reinforcement to let him know things are going to be OK.

We sometimes use plain oatmeal in bland diet meals. The dogs love it!

Awesome shot!!!!

Echoing what everyone else has said. Our experience with amp and chemo was ages ago, and many things have changed and improved. Also recommending contacting Dr Couto for the most up-to-date info on palliative care. Retrospective Evaluation of Outcome in Dogs With Appendicular Osteosarcoma Following Hypofractionated Palliative Radiation Therapy With or Without Bisphosphonates: 165 Cases (2010–2019) Conclusions This study suggests no difference in outcome for dogs treated with and without BPs in addition to hypofractionated RT. Prospective studies are needed to determine if the addition of BPs to hypofractionated RT leads to an improved quality of life in dogs undergoing palliative-intent treatment for OSA. I'd say better than half the dogs we've seen here on GT have added Zolendronate to their palliative treatment regimen. Most see immediate relief from pain, but the effect does seem to lessen over time. Studies have also shown that Tramadol is not an effective pain reliever for dogs (or people). We have found it to be very ineffective for our dogs that need an actual pain reliever. We prefer codiene sulfate if an opiate is needed. It's also a little cheaper. If you are going to use an nsaid, the one called piroxicam was once touted as being particularly effective on osteo. I think this has since been disproven, but if you're going to use one it might as well be one that might offer some added benefit. I think Laila is taking it for her bladder tumors. Even if you don't want to think about it, you have to think about it. We all want as much time as we can with our dogs, but osteo doesn't care what we want. Have a plan in place for the most horrible outcome - a catastophic break at home. Because you can't be calling around and figuring out your options when you have a screaming dog in your yard. How will you carry him? Where will you go? How will you get there? Because you just never know from now on. There are tons and tons of supplements being suggested out there. Most of them don't work. One called "turkey tail mushroom powder" has shown some benefit though. You also might explore the number of federal drug trials out there to see if Merc qualifies. Ask your oncologist and Dr Couto for suggestions. AVMA Study Search Pull up the latest osteo thread. Browse through the links in the first post. It's years out of date, but will give you a jumpstart on your research.

Probably not aggression. Some greyhounds are just very competitive when it comes to who gets there (anywhere) first. And if you're opening the door for a free-for-all exit, your new boy is probably wanting to go out before everyone else. Especially if he's already excited to go for a w-a-l-k. The easiest way to cool things down is to control - *you* control - access to and through the door. Start teaching everyone a "wait" command, even before the door opens, and a release command, when you want them to exit calmly. If you have more than one dog, do this individually at first, and then as a group. This is useful in multiple applications besides the door - crosswalks, random stairs and doorways, waiting for their food - any time you need them to wait quietly for your release for their (and your) comfort and safety.

Sweet Joshi!! I would love to cuddle with her too!

There actually aren't that many breeds that can directly trace their ancestors back more than a couple hundred years, when humans began their program of improving on nature through selective breeding. Yes, a breed called poodle, or Scottish Deerhound, or bulldog might have existed in 1500, but it was a vastly different breed from the dog we know by that name today. If you were able to see a picture of a bulldog (for example) from even the mid-1800s you wouldn't even recognize it. And their purpose would also not be the same. You can see artist renderings of greyhounds from the Middle Ages and have no trouble recognizing this breed. It has changed very little for hundreds of years. Accepted history says the breed is as old as the Bible, and the original sighthounds were developed in the Middle East - the saluki is actually the older breed - but the "modern" greyhound we know today really began as a hunting breed exclusively for royalty in Brittany and England in the 1300s. Humans being humans, they soon started competing to see whose dog was the fastest courser. Everything about the greyhound since then has evolved - through purposeful breeding - to be the fastest hunting dog from their brain to their muscles to their enlarged heart. There isn't another creature on earth built like a greyhound (except a cheetah). As far as their current behavior is concerned, it *is* very different from other dogs. Most dogs bred today, for whatever purpose, are weaned and taken from their mothers and littermates by 8-12 weeks old, just as they are entering a critical phase in their mental and social development. They miss out on all the learning a mother, and, more importantly, their littermates can teach them about being a dog - how to communicate, how to meet and greet each other, how to play, how to behave appropriately. Greyhounds bred for racing (and increasingly show bred puppies) stay with their mothers longer, and with their littermates for up to year longer, learning how to be dogs from other dogs, not from people. The "odd" behaviors people comment on about adopted greyhounds are actually the more natural ones. I would also encourage you to not follow the whole "alpha dominance" model of dog training. It has been entirely disproven over the years, and can cause more problems than it solves. It's also not that effective as a training method for greyhounds. They either have too soft of a personality and collapse under being "dominated" or have much harder and less malleable personalities that means conflict. Finding the motivating factor for you particular dog is important, whether that's food rewards, play time, or toys. Once you do that, they will learn anything as quickly as more trainable breeds. Set consistent rules and boundaries. Reward the behaviors you want to encourage and ignore the ones you want to extinguish.

A greyhound isn't a retriever or a herding dog or a rat hunter or a lap dog. A greyhound is a sighthound that has been bred for hundreds of years to do one job and do it better than any other dog breed - run down fast game fast. So not only are they the fastest dog breed alive today, they have also been bred to work completely independently from people, and make decisions about choosing and hunting prey on their own. They don't work cooperatively in a pack to hunt together. They don't look to humans for guidance. They have been honed into the perfect physical embodiment of a hunting machine by the most selective breeding possible over centuries. Their instincts are all bent around one fact - find their prey, chase it down. They really don't care all that much about toys that don't move on their own - you can't chase what doesn't move! Some greyhounds do fetch on their own - I've had several who liked the game because they know you're going to throw it (make it move) again. Given time and encouragement they may end up playing with squeaky toys, but many greyhounds just never pick up the urge. They are raised in a community consisting entirely of other greyhounds. Greyhounds new to adoption or just off the track often don't even recognize other breeds of dogs as the same sort of creature as they are. They know other greyhounds, and are the ultimate breed snob. Greyhounds don't play like other dogs either - one reason they wear muzzles when out in a group, and why dog parks are often a disaster. It's loud, involves a lot of wrestling, jumping and biting, and can often draw blood. That's not how your average dog park dog wants to engage when having fun. If you want to compare them to another animal you might consider a large hunting cat like a cheetah rather than a horse. The old saying about dogs having owners while cats have staff is true for greyhounds as well. And they are very very good human trainers. Often better at training than their adopters are! For example, we have taken the couch cushions off and replaced them with dog beds (because we - apparently - bought a vintage 50s sofa dog bed a couple years ago!!) But my one dog won't lay on the dog beds unless they are completely flat and straight. She will stand there, staring at the rumpled dog bed, then staring at me, then staring at the dog bed, then at me - until the dog bed gets starightened and she can get up on the couch!! And we *always* do it for her. You've joined a cult with a lot of fanatical members. It's best to enjoy the ride!

If she's under 3 1/2-4 years old she's still basically a puppy in an adult dog's body, with all the energy and curiosity and stubbornness of a puppy left on her own. And yes, she needs to be tired out more - not just her body, but her mind, as well. Take an obedience class with her, get some food puzzles or other toys she has to work to solve, as mentioned above. Right now she's using the drawers and parts of your house as her toys. A tired puppy is a puppy that's asleep and not getting into trouble. When you see her getting into trouble, redirect her to a more appropriate item to chew or play with. Scolding and other forms of punishment rarely work with greyhounds. You can look up behavioral shaping, clicker training, and positive reinforcement only training and begin to turn her into a solid citizen instead of just an annoying teenager.

Why?? It sounds like she's become comfortable in her home and her true personality is finally coming out. It's a pretty common occurrence with adopted dogs. She needs more daily exercise and more training to keep her mind active and her nose out of trouble. Make your home - at least the area where she stays - more dog proof. Pick things up, put them away, put locks on drawers and cabinets. Those are things dog owners have to do with a smart, bored dog in the house. They know when you're watching them and when you're not, and when they can do what they want and when they have to follow the rules. And yes, crating when she can't be supervised is advisable, and better than letting her get into trouble.

As the Mom of a dog who also has a weird parasite not usually found in dogs (capillaria), I feel your pain!! BUT - a quick tour through Mr Google doesn't indicate either seizures OR incontinence as possible symptoms of this fungal infection. There *can* be neurologic changes, but not to the extent of causing seizures. And it's much more likely her wetting the bed during the night is caused by a UTI, or even spay incontinence (which is very common). You didn't say if the urinalysis discovered a UTI or what your vet found on any physical exam. Plus, as said so well by Lucy above, it's better not to go looking for issues to make you crazy - there are enough weird greyhound things out there to go around. Get the results of this round of testing, do the treatment recommended, buy some doggie diapers for the short term. Good luck and please do keep us posted.

The reason we invested in a snow shovel was so we could clear a patch down to the ground for potties!!! Not for digging out the cars or clearing the deck!! People also run out and put down a tarp when the snow begins so they can just flip the tarp back and get a snow free patch for their dogs. Not sure I would be into cold coffee on a morning without power!!

It's sounds like it's her individual version of separation anxiety. Though I've never heard of this particular reaction before. Most healthy dogs won't make themselves sick by not eating or drinking, but if she's under extreme stress it could manifest this way. I would not use CBD in this particular case. Her anxiety isn't making her manic, causing her to be destructive and vocal, it's causing the opposite - she shuts down completely. I would discuss with your vet (or preferably a certified animal behaviorist or canine neurologist) about using a different type of anti anxiety drug to help her. You may need to try several before you discover the right one for her.

Did you post about this recently on the Facebook Greytalk? There was just a similar question there! Generally sprung toes don't need any treatment. Is there some injury to the toe? Or is your concern all for future impact? Given their specific anatomy, it's rare for a greyhound to go through life without having some sort of toe and/or foot issues. If he's limping I would ask for a course of nsaids or pain medication to get him through the first weeks while it's still painful. I've had several greys with sprung toes and none of them had any problems with either injuries to that toe, or any referred physical issues from altered gait. There *may* be an increased tendency to develop corns on the opposite foot, but it's not guaranteed to happen. You also need to keep the toenail as short as possible with weekly nail maintenance. Amputation seems like too much of a risk to "cure" something which isn't causing any problems. As surgeries go, it's relatively simple, but it *is* still a fully anesthetized procedure, with 2-4 week recovery time, including multiple bandage changes and the risk of developing pressure sores and infection. If you do opt for it you must take at least 2 joints, and preferrably one more tarsal up into the foot. Leaving a short stump, as you describe, it not the best solution. That stump has no toe pad or protection when it hits the ground, and usually ends up getting sores or simply breaking down from repeated impacts, requiring another amp surgery to remove the damaged portion. Take it all or take none. And if you do the surgery, persuade your surgeon to NOT use a hard splint for protection afterward. The chance to develop pressure sores greatly increases when you have hard plastic rubbing against a greyhound's thin leg skin. It can take only hours for a sore to develop. Soft wrapping with plenty of padding - including under the remaining toes - is the way to go. You also need professional bandage changes every 4-5 days in the beginning. But I really don't think you need to consider surgery at this point.

Odin!!

Couple thoughts... It doesn't sound like he has a medical issue, but if he hasn't had urine labs or a stool sample checked for parasites recently it doesn't hurt to check that off the list. He might need an actual walk for last outs (or at least during the evening hours) to make sure he poops before going to bed. Adjusting his feeding times may help - his two meals are fairly close together and it's most often recommended to be more evenly spaced during the 24 hours - 8-12 hours apart rather than 7 or less. There *are* low residue foods available, but I don't think that's your issue. Try more exercise first. The other thing is to make sure he stays warm enough during his sleeping hours. The urge to go potty works through the release of hormones - when a dog gets woken up a hormone is released that tells them to go. So if he gets cold and wakes up he's going to have to go potty too. You mentioned that he wants to be tucked in, but if he's a restless sleeper or a nester some jammies or a light housecoat during the night is probably a better option.

TESSIE!!!!! I'm not a supporter and my window to edit the first post passed years ago!! We'll just have to keep monitoring posts and giving people the right links.

Today's the 11th Anniversary of the Great International Houndie Handoff. We lost our sweet Whiskey boy 4 years ago, and Lilly just last February, so this is a very bittersweet day full of memories. We might need to have a Dubbel Meat Turnkey Sammich from Subway to honor their presence in our lives today. A celebration of the power of greyhounds and the greyhound community to bring people together. Today was the day when my friend Jennie P and I met Debbie Ward and John Ward in Peace Park, Blaine WA to do the Great International Houndie Handoff! Whiskey came from Vermont, and Lilly from Alberta, Canada due to the most wonderful friends on the planet! That includes Donna Deskin, too! We spent the night in Blaine and then drove home the next day to meet the other dogs and the Daddieman.

ITS THE HOLIDAY SEASON NOW!!!!!

First, you should contact your local garbage company and find out how they would prefer you dispose of larger quantities of dog waste. Double-bagged in the regular trash is usually the best way. Don't even bother with those in-ground "septic" systems. If you have more than one large breed dog the amount of waste is too much for those systems to dispose of, no matter what they promise. We are lucky to be able to use this service in our area. It began as a local company here in Portland and has grown and grown. Several years ago it was bought by a national pet store - Mud Bay. So there may be some options for you in the future. And I feel so much better knowing that 5 gallons of poop aren't going in the landfill every week (when we had 6 dogs it was 10 gallons a week! ). GreenPet Composting